Mrs. Beeton's Book of Household Management/Chapter LXI
HERBS, CONDIMENTS, AND AUXILIARIES
CHAPTER LXIThe first pages of the present chapter deal principally with the various seasonings and flavourings which form an important part of every culinary preparation, followed by a brief description of the elementary processes which enter largely into every-day cookery. The success of many dishes depends more on the condiments and auxiliaries used in compounding them than on the material forming the base; hence the necessity of some slight knowledge of the qualities of the respective seasonings and flavourings, and the exercise of a certain amount of care in preparing the auxiliaries.
Herbs
Aromatic Herbs and Plants.—A number of these are used in a dry state, but when freshly gathered a better flavour is added to the preparation of which they form a part.
Bay-leaves (Fr.—Feuilles de laurier).—The leaves of the common laurel, Prunus laurocerasus, are employed for culinary purposes to give a kernel-like flavour to sauces, stocks, mirepoix, custards, puddings, etc. They may be dried and their flavour preserved for a great length of time if kept in an air-tight tin.
Basil (Fr.—Basilic). The flavour of this herb greatly resembles that of the bay-leaf. It finds great favour with French cooks, but it is not much used in England except as a flavouring for fish soups and fish sauces. It is in perfection about August, when it should be dried and preserved in air-tight bottles or tins for winter use. Like many other herbs, it may be obtained ready-prepared.
Bouquet Garni.—The little bunch or fagot of herbs to which this name is applied usually consists of two or three sprigs of parsley, a sprig of thyme, and a bayleaf, with the addition of marjoram, celery leaves, basil, or other herbs may, if liked, be added.
Burnet.—The use of this perennial plant has gone somewhat out of fashion. In former times it constituted one of the principal ingredients of claret cup, its leaves, when slightly bruised, smelling like cucumber. Its modern use is confined to salads.
Capsicums.—Several varieties of this plant are cultivated in the East and West Indies and in America. The red chilli, which invariably forms part of mixed pickles, is the pod of the capsicum, and chilli vinegar is made by infusing capsicum pods in vinegar until some of their pungency and strength is extracted. From the same source comes cayenne pepper, obtained from the pods and the seeds, which are well dried and pounded until they are reduced to a fine powder. Capsicums owe their stimulating power to an active principle called capscin, and when used in moderation produce no injurious effects.
Carrots and Turnips.—The small pale-coloured carrot that grows wild in England is not the original of the cultivated variety, which is certainly one of the most valuable and useful vegetables we possess. The garden carrot in general use is a genus of the umbelliferae, and was introduced into England in a cultivated state during the reign of Elizabeth. Turnips also grow wild in England, but naturalists have asserted that the wild turnip is not the progenitor of the valuable culinary esculent of the present day. In this cultivated state they are generally supposed to have been originally introduced from Hanover, in the reign of George I. The manifold purposes for which both these vegetables are employed are too well known to need comment. In adding them to a soup, sauce or ragout, the rule of using less turnip than carrot should always be observed. Both should be used sparingly, otherwise their flavour overpowers that of the materials with which they are cooked.
Chervil (Fr.—Cerfeuil).—This umbelliferous plant is used as a flavouring agent in entrées, sauces, and soups, its peculiar flavour being greatly appreciated by many. But it is still more usefully employed for decorative purposes, its small, pretty, delicately tinted leaves being invaluable as a means of introducing a green garniture to chaudfroids, savouries, salads, etc. In Scotland and in the north of England this plant is commonly called Myrrh.
Chives (Fr.—Ciboulette). The root of this plant consists of small, flat, clustering bulbs. Like other small varieties of the onion tribe, it has a very powerful flavour, and consequently must be sparingly used.
Garlic (Fr.—Ail). The genus Allium includes the chive, garlic, leek, onion and shallot. Of these garlic possesses the most powerful aroma and flavour. In Spain, Italy, and other parts of the Continent, garlic is highly esteemed, but unless very sparingly used the flavour to the English palate. The root consists of several bulbs called cloves, and sufficient flavour may be added to any dish or salad by simply rubbing the vessel containing it with the end of half of of these cloves.
Leeks (Fr.—Poireaux).—This plant, the Allium porrum, is largely employed as a flavouring agent in culinary preparations. In Wales it is highly esteemed, but, notwithstanding its mild delicate flavour, it is little used as a vegetable in England.
Marjoram (Fr.—Marjolaine).—There are four kinds of marjoram, but the sweet or knotted variety, known to naturalists as Origanum Marjorama, is the only one used for culinary purposes. This wellknown herb is a native of Portugal, and was introduced into this country in the sixteenth century. Sparingly used, it imparts an agreeable flavour to many sauces, stews, and other preparations, of which onion forms a part. The herb should be gathered in July, well-dried, finely-powdered, and bottled for winter use.
Mint (Fr.—Menthe).—This aromatic plant belongs to the natural order Labiatae. The Mentha vividis, the variety cultivated in our kitchen gardens, has a more agreeable flavour than its congeners, and it is the one generally used in cookery. Mint possesses the property of correcting flatulence, hence the custom of using it in pea-soup and with new potatoes.
Onions (Fr.—Oignans).—This bulb, the Alium cepa, which is the most common, but, at the same time, the most popular of this class of vegetable, differs widely as regards size and flavour. The smaller varieties are the more powerful, while the larger species, like the Spanish, are mild and sweet. A mild flavour of onion is generally liked, but the objection to its use is the odour left on the palate. This may be obviated in some measure by parboiling them before adding them to any preparation, the objectionable matter being more effectually removed by changing the water two or three times during the process.
Parsley (Fr.—Persil).—This herb is said to be a native of Sardinia, but is largely cultivated in every country in Europe. Parsley possesses the peculiar property of absorbing the strength of other flavouring ingredients; hence the necessity of using it with discretion. In consequence of being generally regarded as exceedingly simple and harmless in character, this herb is frequently employed in altogether disproportionate quantities, thereby overpowering the flavour of other substances with which it is mixed. Parsley intended for winter use should be gathered before it loses its tender shade of green. It is first blanched in boiling water for 1 minute, then put into a hot oven, and when dry enough to be easily reduced to a fine powder it is rubbed through a hair sieve, and put into well-corked bottles or air-tight tins.
Sage (Fr.—Sauge).—This well-known plant belongs to the genus Salvia, a branch of the mint family. It was originally a native of the South of Europe, but its cultivation in England dates from an early age. There are several varieties, known as green, red, small leaved, and the broad-leaved balsamic. Both green and red sage are employed for cookery purposes, especially in stuffings, of which onions form the principal part, but other kinds are used for medicinal purposes.
TRUSSING No. 5: POULTRY, GOOSE, AND HARE.
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See directions on pages 1635, 1636, and 1637.
A DINNER TABLE FOR SIX PERSONS.
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Tarragon (Fr.—Éstragon).—This perennial plant, known to botanists as Artemisia Dracunculus, is believed to be a native of Siberia. Its leaves possess a highly aromatic flavour, and are largely used for decorative purposes, the character and form of the leaf being specially suited to the small devices employed for garnishing chaudfroids, savouries, salads, etc. From it also is made the vinegar known as tarragon vinegar, which is employed by the French in making their mustard, and by the English in mixing mayonnaise and other salad dressings.
Thyme and Lemon Thyme (Fr.—Thym). Both these species belong to the natural order Labiatae, or mint tribe. The leaves of the Thymus vulgaris possess a highly aromatic flavour, and should be sparingly used. Lemon thyme, or Thymus citriodorus, is a trailing evergreen of much smaller growth than the ordinary common kind, and is remarkable for its smell, which closely resembles that of the rind of a lemon, hence its distinctive name.
Condiments
Condiments serve a useful purpose in dietetics, not only in enhancing the flavour of substances to which they are added, but also in inducing greater activity in digestive processes. A little additional seasoning of salt and pepper may be necessary, just before serving, to render a dish more palatable, but all condiments used for seasoning or flavouring should be added either before the dish is cooked or during the process of cooking, otherwise their full flavour cannot be imparted to the materials with which they are mixed.
Allspice (Fr.—Piment).—This is the popular name given to pimento, or Jamaica pepper, known to botanists as Eugenia pimenta, and belonging to the natural order Myrtaceae, or myrtle. It is the berry of a fine tree in the West Indies and South America, which attains a height of from 15 to 20 feet. The berries are not allowed to ripen, but are gathered green, dried in the sun, and then become black. The berries combine the flavour of cloves, cinnamon, and nutmeg, hence the name.
Angelica (Fr.—Angelique).—Although the seeds of this plant are largely used in the preparation of certain liqueurs, it is chiefly in its candied form that this aromatic herb or plant is known to us. In the northern parts of Europe the leaf stalks are peeled and eaten raw as a great delicacy. The root, as well as the leaves and seeds, have been employed for medicinal purposes. From its supposed properties as a specific against poison and witchcraft, it was formerly called the "angelic" plant.
Cayenne (Fr.—Poivre de Guinée). This is the acrid and stimulating spice with which we are acquainted. It is a powder prepared from several varieties of the Capsicum, annual East India plants, of which there are three so far naturalized in this country as to be able to grow in the open air; these are extremely pungent to the taste, and in the green state are used by us as a pickle. When ripe, they are ground into cayenne pepper, and sold as a condiment. The best cayenne, however, is made in the West Indies from the Bird pepper, so named because of the partiality of hens and turkeys to the berry. It is imported ready for use. Of the Capsicum species of plants there are five; but the principal are: (1) Capsicum annum, the common long-podded Capsicum, cultivated in our gardens, of which there are two varieties, one with red, and another with yellow fruit. (2) Capsicum baccatum, or Bird pepper, which rises with a shrubby stalk 4 or 5 feet high, with its berries growing at the division of the branches; this is small, oval-shaped, and of a bright-red colour, from which, as already stated, the best cayenne is made. (3) Capsicum grossum, the bell-pepper; the fruit of this is red, and is the only kind fit for pickling.
Cinnamon (Fr.—cannelle). The cinnamon tree (Laurus Cinnamomum) is a valuable and beautiful species of the laurel family, and grows to the height of 20 or 30 feet. It is believed to have been originally grown in Ceylon, where it is still largely cultivated. It also grows in Madras, Bombay, and Java. The trunk of the tree is short and straight, with wide-spreading branches, and it has a smooth, ash-like bark. The inner bark forms the cinnamon of commerce. When the branches are 3 years old they are stripped of their outer bark, the inner bark is dried, causing it to shrivel up and assume the quilt-like form in which it is imported. The best cinnamon is rather light in colour, and not much thicker than paper. Besides being used extensively for culinary purposes, cinnamon is much employed as a powerful stimulant.
Cloves (Fr.—Girofle).—This very agreeable spice is the dried flowerbuds of the Caryophyllus aromaticus, a handsome branching tree, a native of the Malacca Islands. They take their name from the Latin word clavus, or the French clou, both meaning a nail, to which the clove has a considerable resemblance. Cloves were but little known to the ancients, and Pliny appears to be the only writer who mentions them: and he says, vaguely enough, that some were brought to Rome, very similar to grains of pepper, but somewhat longer: that they were only found in India, in a wood consecrated to the gods; and that they served in the manufacture of perfumes. The Dutch, as in the case of the nutmeg, endeavoured, when they gained possession of the Spice Islands, to secure a monopoly of cloves, and, so that the cultivation might be confined to Ambroyna, their chief island, bribed the surrounding chiefs to cut down all trees elsewhere. The Ambroyna, or royal clove, is said to be the best, and is rare: but other kinds, nearly equally good, are produced in other parts of the world, and they come to Europe from Mauritius, Bourbon, Cayenne, and Martinique, as also from St. Kitt's, St. Vincent's, and Trinidad. The clove contains about 20 per cent, of volatile aromatic oil, to which is attributed its peculiar pungent flavour, its other parts being composed of woody fibre, water, gum, and resin.
Coriander (Fr.—Coriandre).—This plant, the Coriandrum sativum, is of Eastern origin. The seeds of the plant, when fresh, have a disagreeable smell: in their dry state they are used by the confectioner, distiller, and in the manufacture of curry-powder, but very rarely in ordinary cookery.
Curry (Fr.—Poudre de Kari).—Curry is composed of various condiments and spices, which include cardamon-seed, coriandar-seed, cumin-seed, dried cassia leaves, dried chillies, cayenne, ginger, mustard-seed, turmeric, cinnamon, mace, and cloves. It owes its peculiar odour and bright colour to the presence of turmeric, a variety of ginger in the East Indies. Thorough cooking is absolutely necessary to develop the full flavour of the various ingredients comprising curry powder, the directions given in the respective recipes for preparing the curry sauce before adding to it other substances should therefore be strictly followed.
Ginger (Fr.—Gingembre).—Ginger is the tuber of a perennial plant called Zingiber officinale. growing chiefly in the West Indies. There are two varieties; the white and the black. The former is considered the better, and is prepared by washing and scalding the tubers, and then scraping them and drying them in the sun: in the black ginger the scraping process is omitted, it being merely scalded before being dried. Ginger is much used in culinary operations: grated green ginger is deemed by epicures to be an important item in a dish of curry.
Lemon (Fr.—Citron).—This fruit is a native of Asia, and was first cultivated in England in the beginning of the seventeenth century. Lemons are imported in large quantities from the Azores, St. Helena, Spain, and Portugal, those from Spain being considered the best. The juice of the lemon is invaluable in many culinary operations, being employed in some as a bleaching agent, in others to expedite integration and thereby soften the fibres of the substance, while a third purpose it fulfils is that of adding piquancy to sauces and other preparations. Citric acid, extracted from lemons, is largely employed as an anti-scorbutic. The rind of the lemon contains an essential oil of very high flavour and fragrance. This oil is contained in tiny cells on the surface of the lemon, immediately beneath which lies a white pith with a bitter, disagreeable flavour. As a rule the rind is grated, but the best way to obtain the largest amount of the essence from the lemon without encroaching on the white pith, is to pare off the rind in small, almost transparent strips with a sharp knife. The peel, preserved by boiling in syrup, forms the well-known candied peel.
Mace (Fr.—Masse).—Mace is the outer shell or husk of the nutmeg, and naturally resembles it in flavour. Its general qualities are the same as those of the nutmeg, producing an agreeable aromatic odour. When good its hue is orange-yellow.
Mustard (Fr.—Moutarde).—There are two varieties of mustard seeds. Sinapis nigra (the common) and Sinapis alba (the white). The mustard of commerce is composed of the seeds of both varieties, ground and mixed together. Mustard taken in small quantities is said to stimulate the appetite and aid digestion. The pungency of mustard is not fully developed until moistened with water; its flavour is best when freshly prepared. A pinch of salt added to mixed mustard will prevent it from becoming dry, and in some slight degree preserve its aroma.
Nutmegs (Fr.—Noix de Muscat). Nutmegs are the seeds of the nutmeg tree, known to botanists as the Myristica moschata. This tree is a native of the Molucca Islands, but is now cultivated in Java, Cayenne, Sumatra, and some of the West Indian Islands. There are two kinds of nutmegs—one wild, and long and oval-shaped, the other cultivated and nearly round: the husk which surrounds the shell of the nutmeg when growing is known as mace. This familiar spice is largely used as a flavouring: but it should be added sparingly to farinaceous preparations, for its strong aromatic flavour is greatly disliked by many. Forcemeats and similar preparations containing parsley and other herbs may have a comparatively large amount of nutmeg mixed with them, and yet the flavour of the spice will be hardly perceptible. It is generally thought that the strength of the nutmeg is spent in developing the flavour of the herbs with which it is mixed.
Pepper (Fr.—Poivre).—This valuable condiment is produced from the seed of the berries of the plant known by the name of Piper nigrum. The plant, a species of climbing vine, is a native of the East Indies, and is extensively cultivated in Malabar and the eastern islands of Borneo, Sumatra, and Java, and also in Cayenne. The berries hang on the branches of the plant in bunches: in shape they resemble the grape, but each berry grows distinct on a little stalk like currants. The same plant produces both white and black pepper. The berries, when ripe, are bright red in colour, and each contains a single seed of globular form and brownish hue, which changes to nearly black when dried. This is the black pepper of commerce, white peppercorns being produced by steeping the dark berries in lime and water, and afterwards subjecting them to certain rubbing processes, by which their dark husks are removed.
Pepper, Krona.—This well-known condiment is made from the Hungarian paprika, capsicum pod, etc. It is bright-red in colour, with an agreeable flavour, and with less pungency than cayenne, and consequently may be regarded as an exceedingly useful combination of flavouring and seasoning ingredients.
Pepper, Mignonette.—This is ordinary white pepper with the husks removed and crushed finely, but not ground.
Salt (Fr.—Sel). The importance of salt as a condiment, as an antiseptic, and an article of food cannot be overestimated. In cookery its uses are apparently contradictory, for it aids in softening certain substances when applied through the medium of cold water, and greatly assists in hardening the same when the medium is boiling water. It increases the specific gravity of water, and consequently raises the boiling point, a matter of considerable importance in boiling rice, when it is necessary to keep the water in a state of ebullition to prevent the rice coalescing. Every other condiment, no matter how desirable, may be dispensed with, or one condiment may be substituted for another, but salt is absolutely indispensable, for it makes palatable food that would otherwise be uneatable. Salt, like all other seasonings, must be used with judgment: the expression "salt to taste," even when applied to water in which vegetables are cooked, means that the amateur should taste the water until experience teaches her how much to add.
Sugar (Fr.—Sucre).—Sugar, like salt, is both an antiseptic and a valuable food, as well as a useful flavouring ingredient. What salt is to meat and vegetables, sugar is to all fruits and many farinaceous foods, rendering palatable what would otherwise be insipid or uneatable in consequence of extreme sourness. In very small quantities frequently used to soften or heighten the flavour of ragouts and sauces.
Turmeric (Fr.—Merite).—Turmeric is the tuber of the Cucuma longa, a branch of the ginger family, extensively cultivated in the East Indies. The tubers are dried and then ground to a fine powder. This condiment enters largely into the composition of curry-powder, and gives to it the peculiar odour and the bright yellow colour which that compound possess
Vanilla (Fr.—Vanille).—Vanilla is the fruit of a tropical orchid plant, the best varieties are now grown in Mexico. The dried, aromatic sheath-like pod has a delicious fragrance. Its use was first discovered by the Spaniards, but it is now extensively employed as a flavouring for cakes, custards, puddings, chocolate, liqueurs, etc. The most familiar form is the essence of vanilla, extracted from the pod, but its use cannot be recommended, for being volatile, the greater part of its flavour escapes during the process of cooking. It is much better to use vanilla pods or vanilla sugar.
Vinegar—(Fr. Vinaigre).—The best vinegar comes from France, and is made from white wine. Ordinary vinegar is made chiefly from malt, cheap wine and cider, by a long process whereby acetic acid is produced. Any of these vinegars may be used to form the base of chilli, tarragon, or eschalot vinegar, the ingredients from which they take their name being steeped in the vinegar until the desired flavour is imparted. An inferior variety of vinegar is distilled from wood, but it is somewhat lacking in flavour, and consequently considered suitable only for pickling purposes. Vinegar serves many useful purposes in cookery: it enters largely into the composition of many sauces, and greatly assists in softening the fibres of tough meat. Vinegar is also an antiseptic: and taken in small quantities it promotes digestion, by stimulating the organs engaged in the process into greater activity; but if taken in excess, it is highly injurious.
Auxiliaries
Baking Powder.—Mix well together 4 ozs. of ground rice, 4 ozs. of carbonate of soda, and 3 ozs. of tartaric acid, and pass them through a fine sieve. Keep in an air-tight tin.
Blanching.—Some things are blanched to improve their colour, others to remove some strong, undesirable flavour. In all cases the process is the same, the article being immersed in a saucepan of cold water, which is brought to boiling point, and then strained off.
Bouquet Garni.—This name is given to the small bunch of herbs so much used for flavouring sauces, soups, and stews. In its most simple form it consists of a sprig of thyme, marjoram, and a bayleaf wrapped together in parsley, and tied into a little roll. To these may be added a small quantity of one or more of the following: chervil, chives, celery leaf, basil, tarragon.
Breadcrumbs (White).—Remove the crust from some stale bread and rub it through a fine wire sieve, using the palm of the hand for the purpose. Any crumbs left over from egging and bread-crumbing should be dried in the oven, passed through a sieve, and kept in an air-tight tin or jar for future use.
Breadcrumbs (Brown).—Put the crusts removed from the loaf in making white breadcrumbs, or any pieces of stale bread there may be, into a moderate oven, and bake them brown. Then crush them with a rolling pin or pound them in a mortar, pass them through a fine wire sieve, and keep them in an air-tight tin. To make them more quickly, brown white breadcrumbs in a hot oven, turning them frequently during the process, pass them through a fine sieve and use.
Breadcrumbs (Fried).—Put some fresh, fine while breadcrumbs into a frying-pan or baking-tin, with a small piece of butter: season with salt and pepper, and either fry or bake until well-browned. Drain well on paper, and serve hot with roast game.
Browning or Liquid Caramel.—Put 1 lb. of either loaf or moist sugar into a copper stewpan, add about 2 tablespoonfuls of cold water, and stir over a slow fire until the mixture turns dark brown. When a whitish smoke appears it is a sign that the sugar is done. As soon as this point is reached, remove the stewpan from the fire, and pour in about ½ a pint of boiling water. Bring to the boil, stirring meanwhile, and continue the cooking until the caramel has the consistency of syrup. When cool, bottle for use. If a copper stewpan is not available, use a small iron saucepan; put 1 lb. of moist sugar and 2 tablespoonfuls of salt into a frying-pan, and cook and stir over the fire until the mixture becomes dark-brown. Then add ¾ of a pint of boiling water, stir until the water re-boils, and simmer until the caramel acquires the consistency of syrup. When cold, bottle for use; put 2 ozs. of crushed loaf sugar into a small iron saucepan, with 1 teaspoonful of cold water, and stir with an iron spoon over a slow fire until the sugar turns dark-brown: then add ½ a pint of boiling water, stir until it re-boils: simmer from 15 to 20 minutes, and, when cool, pour into a bottle. Some little care is needed in making caramel, as it is so very apt to burn, when it becomes acrid and unpleasant: if, on the other hand, it is not sufficiently cooked, a disagreeable sweet taste will be imparted to everything to which it is added.
Butter (Clarified).—Put the butter into a small stewpan, let it heat slowly by the side of the fire, removing the scum as it rises, and when the butter presents the appearance of clear salad-oil, carefully pour it off from the sediment at the bottom of the pan. Clarified butter, or, as it is sometimes called, oiled or melted butter, is frequently served instead of sauce with fish, meat, and vegetables: it is also used to moisten the surface of many things grilled or cooked "au gratin": and it is also frequently employed for coating moulds and baking-tins.
Butter (Anchovy). To 1 oz. of butter add a teaspoonful of lemonjuice, 1 teaspoonful of anchovy essence or paste, a pinch of cayenne, and a few drops of cochineal or carmine. Mix all well together and use as required.
Butter (Maitre d' Hotel).—Mix well together 1 oz. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, and 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, a little salt and pepper to taste. Spread the preparation on a plate, and when cold and firm, use as required.
Caul.—Pig's caul is best to use. Let it remain in salt and water until required, changing the water each day. Drain it well before using.
Coating with Egg and Breadcrumbs.—For this purpose an egg, slightly beaten, and without seasoning or flavouring of any description, is frequently used: but better results may be obtained by adding to the egg 1 teaspoonful of salad-oil or clarified butter, 1 dessertspoonful of milk, ½ a saltspoonful of salt, and half this quantity of pepper. These ingredients being mixed together on a plate, the articles to be fried should be laid separately in the preparation, and coated thickly by means of a small brush. After being well drained on the point of a knife, they should be tossed lightly in plenty of breadcrumbs held in a sheet of paper. Before frying, the crumbs should be pressed firmly on with the blade of a knife.
Croûtes and Croûtons.—Of these there are various kinds. The large croûte, used as a support for an entrée, is usually cut according to the size of the dish in which it will be served. The size therefore varies, but the average may be taken as 6½ inches in length, about 4½ in breadth, and from 1½ to 2 inches in depth. Unless the crust of the bread can be utilized, there is considerable waste in the cutting. The small croûtes used for garnish or savouries should be cut out of slices of stale bread about ⅓ to ½ an inch in thickness. They may be cut round, oval, square, in triangles or heart-shaped, according to fancy. They are nicest when fried in clarified butter until lightly browned, but clarified fat does very well as a substitute. After frying, they should always be well drained, and kept hot and crisp in front of the fire, or in the mouth of the oven. Another excellent way of preparing croûtes is to dip them in good gravy or well-seasoned stock until saturated, and then place on a buttered baking-tin in the oven until crisp. To make croûtons to be served with soup, cut some stale bread into dice, of an inch in size, fry them in hot butter or fat until lightly browned, drain them first in a gravy strainer and then on paper until quite free from grease.
Frying Batter.—Put 4 ozs. of flour and a saltspoonful of salt into a basin, add gradually ¼ of a pint of tepid water and 1 tablespoonful of salad oil or clarified butter, and mix into a smooth batter. If time permits, put it aside for about 1 hour, then just before using, stir in lightly two stiffly-whisked whites of eggs.
Glaze.—Put 4 quarts of good second stock into a stewpan, boil gently until reduced to about ½ a pint, skimming very frequently meanwhile. When reduced to about 1 pint, the stock should be transferred to a smaller stewpan. To make a little cheap glaze for immediate use, dissolve 1 or 2 sheets of gelatine in 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of good gravy: if necessary, add a few drops of liquid caramel, and when cold and on the point of setting, use as required.
Mirepolx.—A mirepoix is the foundation for flavouring sauces, braised meats, and a number of thick soups. It usually consists of equal quantities of onion and carrot, half the quantity of turnip, 1 or 2 slices of raw ham or bacon, a little butter, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bayleaf), a few peppercorns, and 1 or 2 cloves. In recipes where the mirepoix occurs the exact quantities of the ingredients comprising it are given. In all cases where it is intended the mirepoix should form the foundation for braising, sufficient vegetables should be used to make a substantial bed upon which to place the bird, joint, etc.
Mustard (To mix).—Mustard is usually prepared for use by simply mixing it smoothly with cold water: and it is generally considered of right consistency when sufficiently moist to drop slowly from the spoon. A saltspoonful of salt added to each tablespoonful of mustard not only improves the flavour, but it also prevents the mustard from becoming so quickly dry. If desired, the pungency may be greatly increased by mixing a little chilli vinegar and cayenne with the mustard, the flavour of the whole being softened by the addition of a good pinch of sugar. On the other hand, when a very mild flavour of mustard is liked, it may be obtained by using cream or milk, preferably the former, instead of water. In any case it should be mixed in small quantities, as it quickly loses its flavour and fresh appearance.
Panade or Panada.—Put ½ a pint of water, 1 oz. of butter, and a good pinch of salt into a small stewpan. When boiling, stir in gradually 4 ozs. of sifted flour, and work vigorously with a wooden spoon over the fire until the panada leaves the sides of the stewpan clear. Spread on a plate, and when cool, use as directed. Panada is used to bind together ingredients which themselves possess no adhesive properties.
Parsley, To blanch.—Well wash the parsley, pick it free from stalks, put it into a stewpan with some cold salted water, and when the boiling point is reached, strain it off and dry the parsley by squeezing it well in a clean cloth. The stalks of the parsley may be used for flavouring stocks and soups, for which purpose they answer quite as well as, if not better than, the leaves.
Parsley, To chop.—Parsley intended for garnish should always be blanched, but for ordinary purposes thorough washing of the sprigs, picked free from stalks, is all that is necessary. After drying well in a clean cloth, chop it finely, keeping the left hand pressed firmly on the point of the knife, whilst moving the handle up and down rapidly with the right. When fine enough, gather up the parsley in the corner of a clean cloth and hold it under the tap, or in a basin, squeezing with the fingers until the water running from it is clear and bright green: then wring dry, and use.
Parsley, To fry.—Remove some small sprigs from some fresh parsley, wash it in cold water, drain well, and press gently in a clean, dry cloth to absorb as much moisture as possible, otherwise the damp leaves may cause the hot fat to spurt up in an unpleasant, if not dangerous, manner. When the articles are fried, put the parsley in a wire basket into the fat, and fry about 1 minute, when it should be crisp. Or, when a frying-basket is not available, leave rather long stalks attached to the parsley, tie them together with string, and let a long end remain, by which the parsley can be held whilst frying. Fried parsley can be kept fresh and crisp for several days if stored in an air-tight tin: before using, it should be re-heated in the oven.
Peel: To Peel Almonds and Pistachios.—Cover the nuts with boiling water, let them remain for 6 or 7 minutes, then strain, replace them in the basin, and cover with cold water. When cool, drain well, and remove the skins by pressing each nut between the thumb and forefinger. Dry well on a sieve, and use as required.
Potato Border (White).—For one border allow 3 medium-sized potatoes. Boil or steam them and pass through a fine sieve. Add 1 raw yolk of egg, ½ an oz. of butter, salt and pepper to taste, and well mix the ingredients over the fire. As soon as the potato is cool enough to handle, shape it into a long, narrow roll, using as little flour as possible: arrange it on the dish in a round or oval form, re-heat in the oven, and use.
Potato Border (Brown).—Prepare a border as directed above, place it carefully on a greased baking-tin, brush over with beaten egg, bake until nicely browned, then transfer to a hot dish, using two fish slices for the purpose.
Rice Border (Socle).—Borders of rice or white fat are frequently used to raise a cold entree above the level of the dish. To make a rice border, put 1 lb. of well-washed Caroline rice into a stewpan, with 3 pints of cold water and 1 teaspoonful of salt: cook slowly until the water is absorbed and the rice perfectly tender, then pound it to a smooth paste in a mortar. Press well into a wetted border mould, or turn the rice on to a pastry slab or large dish, knead well with the hands until a smooth elastic paste is obtained, then shape it with a couple of wooden spoons into a round or oval block. The edges must be neatly trimmed with a sharp knife, and, if liked, they may be cut by the same means into a serrated, fluted, or other suitable design. The socle should be allowed to become firm before being used.
Rice (For curry).—Put ½ a lb. of Patna rice in a stewpan, with sufficient cold water to cover it: bring to the boil, then strain, and hold the strainer under the cold water tap until the rice is thoroughly washed. Have ready 3 or 4 pints of salted boiling water, put in the rice, and cook from 12 to 15 minutes, then turn it into a colander, pour some hot water over it, cover with a clean dry cloth, and let the rice remain in the screen or near the fire for about 2 hours, when every grain should be separate. A less troublesome, but at the same time less satisfactory, way of preparing rice is to omit the blanching process, and simply wash the rice in cold water before cooking. It is boiled as described above, and the finishing process may be carried out in two ways: In the first, after being strained and rinsed in cold water, the rice is returned to the saucepan and allowed to remain, covered with a clean cloth or with the lid tilted for about 1 hour, when each grain should be separate and perfectly dry. Or, after being washed and rinsed, it may be tied loosely in a pudding cloth, and steamed for 1 hour; when a steamer is not available, the rice may be laid on a plate on the top of an inverted basin, and placed in a saucepan containing a little boiling water.
Roux.—This is the French term for a preparation used for thickening sauces, soups, and gravies. There are three kinds of roux: "white," "blond," and "brown," all of which consist of equal quantities of butter and flour cooked together over the fire. The butter and flour are fried for a few minutes without browning, when white roux is required, and until slightly browned in making blond roux; but when the third variety is desired, the frying process must be prolonged until the roux acquires a rich nut-brown colour. (See p. 208 tor further particulars.)
Salpicon.—This name is applied to the various mixtures used for filling timbales, bombs, patty-cases, croustades, ramakins, etc. It may consist of dice of chicken, game, veal, ham, tongue, truffles, mushrooms, oysters, shrimps, lobster, sole, or other kind of fish, variously seasoned, and moistened with a thick sauce, usually Béchamel or Espagnole.
Sieve : To Rub or Pass Through a Sieve.—The means employed for rubbing or pressing any substance through a sieve is the back of the bowl of a wooden spoon, the exception being breadcrumbs, which are usually rubbed through with the palm of the hand. In the case of meat, lentil, haricot, and similar purées, sieving is not an easy process, but it may be greatly facilitated by frequently moistening the purée with any liquid ingredients included in the recipe.
To Whip Cream.—Put the cream into a cold basin, and stand in a cool place whilst whipping it. Use an ordinary wire whisk for the purpose, whip gently until the cream begins to thicken, then a little more quickly. In warm weather cream quickly turns to butter if overwhipped: should this occur, continue the whipping to make the conversion complete, and use the butter for cookery purposes. When the whipped cream is not intended for immediate use, let it drain on a hair sieve in a cool place until required.