Mrs. Beeton's Book of Household Management/Chapter X

by Isabella Beeton

RECIPES FOR GRAVIES, SAUCES AND FORCEMEATS.

 

CHAPTER X.

 

Auxiliaries for Sauces, Compound Butters, Gravies, etc., White Sauces (hot and cold) and Salad Dressings, Brown, Fish, Fruit, Sweet and Miscellaneous Sauces, Forcemeats, etc.

Auxiliaries for Sauces.

155.—CARAMEL FOR COLOURING SAUCES.

Ingredients.—1 lb. of castor or moist sugar, 3 gills of water.

Method.—Put the sugar and a good tablespoonful of water into an untinned stewpan, and stir over the fire until it becomes dark-brown. Boil it, add the rest of the water to the sugar, stir until it boils, simmer until the caramel acquires the consistency of syrup, and, when cold, bottle for use. It may be used for sweet or savoury sauces.

Time.—About 40 minutes.

156.—CARAMEL FOR COLOURING SAUCES. (Another Method.)

Ingredients.—1 lb. of sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of salt, ¾ of a pint of boiling water.

Method.—Put the salt and sugar into an iron saucepan or frying pan, and stir and cook until dark-brown, add the water, boil well, and, when cold, bottle for use.

Time.—About 30 minutes.

157.—CHILI VINEGAR.

Ingredients.—50 fresh red English chilies, 1 pint of vinegar.

Method.—Pound the chilies or cut them in half, and infuse them in the vinegar for a fortnight, when it will be fit for use. This will be found an agreeable relish to fish, as many people prefer to eat it with the addition of an acid and cayenne pepper.

Compound Butters.

Chiefly used for the enrichment of sauces.

158.—CRAYFISH OR SHRIMP BUTTER. (Fr.—Beurre d'Ecrevisses.)

Method.—Pound ½ a pint of picked shrimps or prawns in a mortar till smooth, add 3 ozs. of fresh butter, ½ an oz. of anchovy paste; mix thoroughly, and rub through a fine sieve. Keep on the ice till wanted. A little liquid carmine or cochineal may be added to improve colour, if found necessary.

159.—DEVILLED BUTTER. (Fr.—Beurre à la Diable.)

Method.—Mix 1 oz. of butter with white pepper, cayenne, and curry-paste, about a saltspoonful of each, and blend thoroughly with a few drops of lemon-juice.

160.—LOBSTER BUTTER. (Fr.—Beurre de Homard.)

Method.—Procure the eggs (spawn) and coral of a lobster, pound till smooth in a mortar with double its weight of fresh butter, rub through a fine sieve, and keep in a cool place till required.

161.—MONTPELLIER BUTTER. (Fr.—Beurre Montpellier.)

Ingredients.—2 ozs. each of parsley, chervil, tarragon, chives and cress; 2 anchovies, 9 yolks of hard-boiled eggs, 3 ozs. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of capers, 1 gherkin.

Method.—Wash and pick the parsley, cress and herbs, blanch for 3 minutes, strain and cool. Dry well in a cloth, and pound in a mortar. Wipe and bone the anchovies, pound them in a mortar with the egg-yolks, capers, and gherkins until smooth, then add the butter and lastly the green purée. Pass through a wire sieve, and use as required. A little spinach may be added if the herbs should not colour the butter sufficiently.

162.—RAVIGOTE OR GREEN BUTTER. (Fr.—Beurre Ravigote.)

Ingredients.—1½ ozs. of chervil, 2 ozs. of spinach, 1½ ozs. of green chives, 1 oz. of tarragon, ½ an oz. of parsley, 3 shallots, 6 ozs. of butter, salt and pepper.

Method.—Put the chervil, spinach, chives, tarragon and parsley into a saucepan with water, blanch and drain well, then pound these ingredients in a mortar. Peel and chop the shallots finely, cook them in a little butter until golden-brown, and mix them with the herbs. When cold, work in the remainder of the butter, pass through a fine sieve, and add a little pepper and salt and spinach-greening, if necessary.

Time.—30 minutes. Average Cost, 8d.

Spinach (Fr. Épinards) is cultivated for its young leaves, which are prepared for the table by boiling or frying. Two principal varieties of spinach are cultivated, prickly spinach with triangular and arrow-shaped leaves; and smooth spinach, the leaves of which are round and blunt. Flanders spinach is also grown for the market. It is a wholesome vegetable, and one of its constituents being iron, spinach is beneficial to persons who suffer from anæmia.

Gravies.

163.—BEEF GRAVY FOR POULTRY, GAME, Etc.

Ingredients.—1 pint of cold water, ½ a lb. of lean beef, 1 small onion, salt and pepper.

Method.—Cut the beef into small pieces, put it with the onion and the water into a stewpan, or earthenware stewjar, and cook slowly for 3 or 4 hours. Strain, season, and use as required.

Time.—3 to 4 hours. Average Cost, 6d. Quantity, about ¾ pint.

164.—BROWN GRAVY. (Fr.—Jus brun.)

Ingredients.—1 quart of water, 1 lb. of neck or shin of beef, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of sweet dripping, ½ oz. of flour, 1 medium-sized onion, 1 small slice of lean bacon, or a few trimmings of lean ham or bacon, salt and pepper, 1 clove, if liked.

Method.—Cut the meat and bacon into small pieces, slice the onion. Melt the dripping in a stewpan, put in the meat, bacon, and onion, and fry till brown. Add the water, salt and pepper, and clove, cook slowly for 3 or 4 hours, and strain. Melt the butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour, and cook for 5 minutes. Add the gravy, stir until it boils, skim, simmer for 10 minutes, and use as required.

Time.—3½ to 4½ hours. Average Cost, about 10d. Quantity, 1 pint.

Cloves (Fr. Clou de girofle).—An agreeable pungent aromatic spice, obtained from the dried flower buds of the Caryophyllus aromaticus, a handsome branching tree with purplish flowers, allied to the myrtle. The name is derived from the Latin, clavus, and French, clou, "a nail," to which the clove is supposed to bear a resemblance. The clove is a native of the Molucca Islands, but is successfully cultivated in Jamaica, Sumatra, Mauritius, Cayenne, Malacca, Trinidad, and other places. The Amboyna, or royal clove, is said to be the best, and is obtained from the island of that name, colonized by the Dutch. The clove contains about 20 per cent. of volatile oil, which abounds in every part of the plant, occasioning its peculiar pungent flavour; the rest is composed of woody fibre, water, gum, and resin. Cloves are used medicinally, but are chiefly employed for culinary purposes.

165.—BROWN GRAVY FOR ROAST RABBIT. (Economical.)

Ingredients.—1 pint of water, 1 oz. of beef dripping, 1 oz. of butter, ½ an oz. of flour, the liver of the rabbit, 1 medium-sized onion, ½ a carrot, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), salt and pepper.

Method.—Slice the vegetables, cut the liver into small pieces. Melt the dripping in a stewpan, fry the vegetables and liver to a nice brown, then add the water, bouquet-garni, salt and pepper, and cook slowly for 1 hour. Strain and return to the saucepan, knead the flour and butter well together on a plate, add it, in small portions, to the gravy, stir and cook for ten minutes. Season to taste, add a few drops of caramel to improve the colour, and serve.

Time.—1¼ to 1½ hours. Average Cost, 2½d. Quantity, about ¾ pint.

166.—GRAVY (Quickly made). (Fr.—Jus de Viande.)

Ingredients.—¾ of a pint of water, ½ a lb. of shin of beef, ½ an oz. of butter, ½ an onion, ¼ of a carrot, salt and pepper.

Method.—Cut the meat and vegetables into small pieces and fry them brown in the butter. Add the water, salt and pepper, and simmer for ½ an hour. Strain, season, and serve. The meat and vegetables should afterwards be put into the stock-pot, or with more water added to them may be cooked until all their goodness is extracted.

Time. From 40 to 45 minutes. Average Cost, about 5d. Quantity, about ½ a pint.

167.—GRAVY FOR GAME. (Fr.—Jus de Gibier.)

Ingredients.—Bones and trimmings of game, sufficient cold water to cover them, a bay-leaf, 1 clove, 6 peppercorns, a sprig of thyme, a small piece of onion, 1 oz of butter (or less if making a small quantity).

Method.—Cut up the trimmings and break the bones into small pieces. Melt the butter, add the bones and meat, and the rest of the ingredients, cover with water, simmer for 3 hours, then strain, season and use as required.

Time.—3¼ hours. Average Cost, 1½d. without the bones and trimmings.

168.—GRAVY FOR HASHES, Etc.

Ingredients.—Bones and trimmings of the joint to be hashed, sufficient water to cover the bones, 1 small onion, 1 strip of celery, ½ a small carrot, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), salt and pepper. Measure the gravy when made, and to each ½ pint allow ½ oz. of butter, and a dessertspoonful of flour.

Method.—Break the bones into small pieces and slice the vegetables. Put them into a saucepan, add the trimmings of the meat, water, bouquet-garni, salt and pepper, simmer for 2 hours, then strain. Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, and fry brown. Put in the gravy, stir until it boils, season to taste, and use as required. A little ketchup, Harvey, or other sauce may be added if liked.

Time.—About 2 hours. Average Cost, 1½d. per pint, exclusive of bones and trimmings.

169.—GRAVY FOR ROAST FOWL. (Economical.)

Ingredients.—The necks, feet, livers and gizzards of the fowls, sufficient water to cover them, a slice of bacon, or the trimmings of ham or bacon, 1 very small onion, a bouquet garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), salt and pepper.

Method.—Wash the gizzards, livers and necks, scald and skin the feet, cut the whole into small pieces. Place them all together in a stewpan, add the bacon, cut small, bouquet-garni, onion and seasoning, cover with water, and cook gently for 2 hours. Strain, and season to taste. When the fowls are roasted, strain off the fat, pour the gravy into the tin, mix well with the gravy from the fowls, boil, and serve.

Time.—From 2½ to 3 hours. Average Cost, 1½d.

170.—GRAVY FOR ROAST HARE, Etc.

Ingredients.—1 quart of water, ½ a lb. of skirt of beef, ½ a lb. of milt (ox spleen), 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 1 onion, 2 cloves, salt and pepper.

Method.—Cut the meat and milt into small pieces, put them into a stewpan, or earthenware stewjar, add the water, onion, cloves, salt and pepper, and cook gently for 3 or 4 hours, then strain. Melt the butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour and brown it, add the gravy, stir until it boils, season to taste, and serve.

Time.—4 to 5 hours. Average Cost, about 6d. Quantity, about 1 pint.

171.—GRAVY WITHOUT MEAT.

Ingredients.—½ an onion, 1 small carrot, ½ oz of dripping, ½ a pint of water, 1 teaspoonful of Marmite, Odin, or any other kind of vegetable extract.

Method.—Cut up the onion and carrot into slices; fry both in the dripping. When nicely browned add the water, and Marmite or Odin extract. Boil up, season with salt and pepper, and cook for 10 minutes. Skim well and strain.

Time.—25 minutes. Average Cost, 4d. Quantity, ½ a pint.

172.—JUGGED GRAVY. (Excellent.)

Ingredients.—3 pints of water, 2 lb. of shin of beef, ¼ lb. of lean ham, 1 small carrot, 1 strip of celery, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), a blade of mace, 6 peppercorns, 1 clove, salt.

Method.—Cut the ham and beef into small pieces, and slice the vegetables. Put them into a stewing jar in alternate layers, sprinkle each layer with salt, add the peppercorns, mace, bouquet-garni, and water, cover closely, and tie 3 or 4 folds of well-greased paper on the top to keep in the steam. Place the jar in a rather cool oven, and cook gently for 6 hours, then strain, and when cold remove the fat. Re-heat, and serve with any dish that requires good gravy.

Time.—About 6½ hours. Average Cost, 1s. 6d. to 1s. 8d. Quantity, about 1 quart.

173.—VENISON GRAVY.

Ingredients.—1 small jar of red-currant jelly, 1 glass of port.

Method.—Heat the above ingredients in a stewpan to near boiling point, and serve separately in a tureen.

Time.—5 minutes. Average Cost, 10d. Quantity, less than ½ a pint.

White Sauces (hot and cold) and Salad Dressings.

174.—ALLEMANDE SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Allemande.) (For Meat and Fish.)

Ingredients.—¾ of a pint of white stock, 1½ ozs. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, the yolks of 2 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of cream, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, nutmeg, salt and pepper.

Method.—Melt 1 oz. of butter in a saucepan, add the flour, stir and cook for a few minutes without browning, then put in the stock and bring to the boil, stirring meanwhile. Let it simmer gently for ½ an hour, take it off the stove, add the yolks of the eggs and cream previously mixed together, a pinch of nutmeg, and season to taste. Continue to stir and cook slowly without boiling for a few minutes longer, then add the lemon-juice, and the remainder of the butter bit by bit, stirring the ingredients well between each addition. Pass through a fine strainer or tammy cloth, re-heat, and use.

Time.—About 1 hour. Average Cost, 1s. 3d. Quantity, 1 pint.

175.—ASPARAGUS SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Asperges.)

Ingredients.—25 green asparagus, ½ a pint of white sauce (see page 221), ¾ of an oz. of butter, ½ a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, spinach or a little spinach-greening, salt and pepper.

Method.—Cut off the green ends of the asparagus, boil them in salt and water for 10 minutes, and drain well. Melt the butter in a saucepan, fry the asparagus for 8 minutes, add the sauce, and a seasoning of salt and pepper and a little spinach greening if a deep tint is desired. Simmer gently for 15 minutes, then pass through a fine strainer or tammy cloth; re-heat, add the lemon-juice, and use as required.

Time.—From 40 to 45 minutes. Average Cost, 1s. 3d. to 1s. 6d. Quantity, ½ a pint.

176.—BEARNAISE SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Béarnaise.)

Ingredients.—2 shallots, peeled and chopped finely, a few fresh tarragon leaves, 1 gill of French wine vinegar, 3 yolks of eggs, ½ a teaspoonful of Mignonette pepper, a little salt, ½ a gill of Béchamel sauce, 3 ozs. of butter, ½ a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and tarragon leaves.

Method.—Put the vinegar, shallots, and whole tarragon leaves in a stewpan, cover it, and let the liquor reduce to about one-eighth of the original quantity. Remove from the fire, cool a little, add the sauce and re-heat, then stir in the yolks of the eggs, and season with salt and Mignonette pepper. Whisk the whole over the fire, and incorporate the butter by degrees. This sauce must on no account be allowed to boil when once the eggs are added. Pass it through a tammy-cloth. Return to another stewpan, and whisk again over hot water or in a bain-marie. Add the chopped parsley and a few chopped tarragon leaves, and serve as directed.

Time.—35 to 45 minutes. Average Cost, 10d. Quantity, ½ a pint.

177.—BÉCHAMEL, or FRENCH WHITE SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Béchamel.)

Ingredients.—1½ ozs. of flour, 2 ozs. of butter (or of corresponding quantity of white roux), 1¼ pints of milk (or white stock), 1 small onion or shallot, 1 small bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 10 peppercorns, ½ a bay-leaf, 1 small blade of mace, seasoning.

Method.—Put the milk on to boil with the onion or shallot, the bouquet-garni, peppercorns, mace, and bay-leaf. Melt the butter, stir in the flour, and cook a little without browning, stir in the hot milk, etc., whisk over the fire until it boils, and let it simmer from 15 to 20 minutes. Strain and pass through a sieve or tammy-cloth, return to the stewpan, season lightly with a pinch of nutmeg, ½ a pinch of cayenne, and ½ a teaspoonful of salt. The sauce is then ready for use.

Time.—40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, 7d. with milk. Sufficient for 1 boiled fowl.

Mace (Fr. fleur de muscade).—The dried aril or fleshy net-like membrane which surrounds the shell of the nutmeg, which when ripe is of a bright scarlet colour. Its general properties are the same as those of the nutmeg, and it possesses an extremely aromatic and fragrant odour, and a hot and acrid taste. Mace is prepared by separating it from the nut when gathered, and curing it by pressure and exposure to the sun. It is largely used as a condiment.

178.—BÉCHAMEL, or FRENCH WHITE SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Béchamel.) (Another Method.)

Ingredients.—1½ ozs. of flour, 2 ozs. of butter, 1¼ pints of equal parts of milk and white stock, 1 small onion or shallot, 1 bouquet-garn (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 10 peppercorns, ½ a bay-leaf, 1 small blade of mace, seasoning.

Method.—Put the milk and stock in the saucepan with the vegetables and seasoning, and let it come to the boil. Melt the butter in another saucepan, add the flour and cook it, without browning, pour in the hot milk, whisk until it boils, and simmer for about 20 minutes. Strain the sauce through a tammy-cloth, or fine strainer, warm up, and use as required.

Time.—40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, 8d. per pint. Sufficient for 2 boiled fowls.

179.—BÉCHAMEL SAUCE WITHOUT STOCK. (Fr.—Sauce Béchamel maigre.)

Ingredients.—1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 1 pint of milk, 1 small onion stuck with a clove, a few parsley leaves tied in a bunch, a bay-leaf, 1 small blade of mace, seasoning.

Mode.—Boil the milk with the vegetable and seasoning for ½ an hour. Melt the butter in another saucepan, stir in the flour, and cook for a few minutes without allowing it to brown, add the milk gradually, stir until it boils, simmer for about 20 minutes. Strain the sauce, use as required, adding seasoning to taste.

Time.—40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, 4d. per pint. Sufficient for one boiled fowl, about one pint.

180.—BREAD SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce au Pain.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of milk, 1 tablespoonful of cream, 2 ozs. of freshly made breadcrumbs. ¼ of an oz. of butter, 1 very small peeled onion, 1 clove, salt and pepper.

Method.—Put the milk and onion, with the clove stuck in it, into a small saucepan and bring to the boil. Add the breadcrumbs, and simmer gently for 20 minutes, then remove the onion, add salt and pepper to taste, stir in the butter and cream, and serve.

Time.—20 to 25 minutes. Average Cost, about 3d. Quantity, ½ a pint.

Note.—The cream may be omitted, and, if preferred, a little more butter added. Flavouring is simply a matter of taste (when cloves are not liked, mace or nutmeg may be substituted).

181.—BLONDE SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Blonde.)

Ingredients.—¼ of a pint of white stock (either meat or fish), ½ a pint of milk, 1 tablespoonful of cream, 2 yolks of eggs, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, 1 oz. of butter, ¾ of an oz. of flour, salt and pepper.

Method.—Melt the butter, add the flour and cook for a few minutes without browning. Add the stock and milk, stir until boiling, then simmer gently for 15 minutes, stirring frequently. Whisk the yolks of the eggs and cream well together, and add them to the sauce when not quite boiling. Season to taste, add the lemon-juice, and whisk the mixture by the side of the fire until the sauce thickens slightly, but do not allow it to boil. Strain and use with fish or meat, according to the stock forming the base.

Time.—From 35 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, 6d., in addition to the stock.

182.—CAPER SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce aux Câpres.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of melted butter (see page 228) 1 tablespoonful of capers, either cut in two or coarsely chopped, 1 dessertspoonful of vinegar from the capers, salt and pepper.

Method.—Make the melted butter as directed, add to it the capers, vinegar and seasoning, and use.

Time.—Altogether, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, 3d. to 4d. Quantity ½ pint.

Note.—If for serving with boiled mutton, make the melted butter sauce with the liquor in which the meat was boiled, instead of plain water.

Capers (Fr.: Câpres).—The name given to the unopened flower-buds of a low trailing shrub which grows wild among the crevices of the rocks of Greece and in Northern Africa, and is cultivated in the South of Europe. It was introduced into Britain as early as 1586. After being pickled in vinegar and salt, they are imported from Sicily, Italy, and the south of France, and are used as a table-sauce chiefly with boiled mutton. The flower-buds of the nasturtium are frequently pickled and used as a substitute for the genuine article.

183.—CAPER SAUCE, SUBSTITUTE FOR.

Ingredients.—½ a pint of melted butter (see Sauces) 2 tablespoonfuls of cut parsley, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar, salt and pepper.

Method.—Choose dark-coloured parsley, or boil it slowly in order to destroy some of its colour, and then cut it into small pieces, but do not chop it. Have the melted butter ready made, according to directions given, add to it the parsley, vinegar, salt and pepper to taste. Serve as a substitute for caper sauce.

Average Cost.—2d. or 3d.

184.—CELERY SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Céléri.) (For Boiled Turkey and Fowls.)

Ingredients.—¾ of a pint of white stock, ½ a pint of milk, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1½ ozs. of butter, 1½ ozs. of flour, 2 sticks of celery (white part only), a blade of mace, salt and pepper.

Method.—Wash the celery, cut it into short pieces, cover with cold water, bring to the boil, and strain. Put the stock and mace into a stewpan, add the celery, simmer until tender (45 to 60 minutes), then rub through a fine hair sieve. Melt the butter in the stewpan, stir in the flour, cook for 2 or 3 minutes, then add the milk, and celery purée, and stir until it boils. Add seasoning to taste, stir in the cream and use as required.

Average Cost.—1s. per pint. Sufficient for a boiled turkey or two fowls.

185.—CELERY SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Céléri.) (A more simple Recipe.)

Ingredients.—¾ of a pint of melted butter (see page 228) 1 head of celery (the white part only), salt and pepper.

Method.—Wash the celery and chop it coarsely. Put it into a stewpan with barely sufficient water to cover it, and simmer ½ for an hour. Stir occasionally as the water evaporates and the celery becomes rather dry. Add the melted butter, stir until it boils, season to taste, and serve.

Time.—1 hour. Average Cost, 5d. Sufficient for a boiled turkey.

186.—CHAUD-FROID SAUCE (WHITE). (Fr.—Sauce Chaud-Froid Blanche.) (Cold Sauce for masking Chicken, Cutlets, etc.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of Béchamel sauce, ¼ of a pint of aspic jelly, ¼ of a pint of cream, 5 or 6 sheets of French gelatine, 1 teaspoonful of chilli vinegar or lemon-juice.

Method.—Dissolve the gelatine in the aspic jelly, and mix with the hot sauce. Stir over the fire until it boils, then add the vinegar or lemon-juice, simmer for 3 or 4 minutes, and strain or pass through a tammy-cloth. When cool add the cream, and use as required, when just on the point of setting.

Time.—25 to 35 minutes. Average Cost, 1s. to 1s. 2d. for this quantity.

Note.—Brown Chaud-Froid sauce may also be made by substituting equal quantities of good brown sauce and tomato sauce for the Béchamel. Green Chaud-Froid is composed of Béchamel and a few drops of spinach greening, and pink Chaud-Froid is made by adding a few drops of carmine to the Béchamel sauce. The aspic jelly and gelatine are added to give brightness and stiffness to the sauces.

187.—CHESTNUT SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce aux de Marrons.) (For Chicken or Turkey.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of white stock, ¼ of a pint of cream or milk, ½ a lb. of chestnuts, a thinly cut strip of lemon-rind, cayenne, salt.

Method.—Cut the tops off the chestnuts and roast or bake them for about 20 minutes. Remove the outer and inner skins, put them into a saucepan with the stock and lemon-rind, and let them simmer until tender (about ½ hour). Rub through a fine sieve, return to the saucepan, add seasoning to taste, and re-heat. Stir in the cream, and use as required. If milk is used, mix with it a teaspoonful of cornflour or ordinary flour, stir it into the purée when boiling, and simmer for 5 minutes to cook the flour. Season with salt and a tiny pinch of cayenne.

Time.—1¼ to 2 hours. Average Cost, 10d. per pint with cream. Sufficient for a boiled turkey.

Note.—Brown chestnut sauce may be made by substituting ½ a pint of brown sauce and a ¼ of a pint of brown stock for the white stock and cream.

188.—CREAM SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce à la Crème.) (For Sweetbreads, Chickens, Soles.)

Ingredients.—3 tablespoonfuls of Béchamel sauce, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 oz. of butter, 2 yolks of eggs, a few drops of lemon-juice, salt and pepper.

Method.—Put all the ingredients except the lemon juice into a small saucepan, which must be placed either in a bain-marie or in a larger shallow pan, half full of boiling water. Stir the mixture until it acquires the consistency of thick cream, then pass through a tammy-cloth, reheat, add the lemon juice, and use.

Time.—20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to 7d.

189.—CUCUMBER SAUCE (Hot). (Fr.—Sauce aux Concombres [Chaude].)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of Béchamel sauce (see page 220) 1 cucumber, 1 oz. of butter, a little spinach greening, salt and pepper.

Method.—Peel the cucumber, cut into thick slices, and remove the seeds. Melt the butter in a stewpan, put in the cucumber, cover closely, and let it steam in the butter until tender (about 30 minutes), stirring occasionally. When sufficiently cooked, add the sauce, lemon-juice, seasoning, and spinach greening. Cook two or three minutes, pass through a sieve and serve.

Time.—About 1 hour. Average Cost, 8d. to 10d. for this quantity.

190.—DUTCH SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Hollandaise.)

Ingredients.—2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 1 shallot, peeled and chopped, 1 bay-leaf, 4 white peppercorns crushed, 1 gill of white sauce, the yolks of 2 eggs, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, 2 ozs. of butter, salt.

Method.—Put the vinegar (French wine vinegar in preference to malt vinegar) with the shallot, bay-leaf and peppercorns in a stewpan, and reduce to ½ its original quantity; add the white sauce, let it boil, remove the bay-leaf, and stir in the yolks of eggs. When it begins to thicken remove the preparation from the fire and strain into another stewpan. Re-heat (taking great care that the sauce does not curdle), and whisk in the butter by degrees. Add the lemon-juice and enough salt to taste, and serve with boiled fish, artichokes, asparagus, etc.

Time.—About ½ an hour. Average Cost, 6d. to 7d.

191.—DUTCH SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Hollandaise) (Another Method.)

Ingredients.—The yolks of 3 eggs, 2 ozs. butter, 1 gill Béchamel sauce, ¼ of a gill of stock, the juice of ½ a lemon, salt and pepper.

Method.—Make the sauce hot, remove the saucepan to the side of the stove, and whisk in the yolks of the eggs, stock and lemon-juice. Cook over a slow fire, then add the butter in small pieces off the fire. Season, strain, and it is ready to serve. The sauce must be carefully cooked, and on no account placed on the fire after the butter is added, or it will oil.

Time.—20 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to 8d.

The Lemon (Fr.: Citron).—This well-known fruit of the lemon tree. Citrus Limonum, is a native of the tropical parts of Asia, and was probably introduced into south-western Europe by the Arabs. It is allied to the citron and the orange, but is more hardy than the latter. The lemon is imported into this country chiefly from Spain, Portugal, Sicily, and the Azores. From the lemon lime-juice is obtained, which is used in the manufacture of lemonade, and as a beverage; it is also largely employed in calico printing to discharge colours. The anti-scorbutic properties of lime-juice are of high value, and lime-juice is extensively used in the Navy and the Merchant Service. Its constituents are sugar, vegetable, albuminous and mineral matter, including potash. Citirc acid and the oil of lemon are obtained by pressure and distillation from the fresh peel; the latter is a volatile oil of a yellow or greenish colour, much used in perfumery, medicinal preparations, and for various domestic purposes. Lemon-peel is prepared by drying the rind, and preserving it with sugar.

192.—FRENCH ONION SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Soubise.)

Ingredients.—2 Spanish onions, 1 gill of white stock, ½ a pint of Béchamel sauce, white pepper, salt, a pinch of white sugar.

Method.—Peel the onions, parboil them in salted water, strain and chop very finely. Return to the saucepan, stir over the fire until all moisture is absorbed, then add the stock and cook until tender. Now add the sauce, reduce until the desired consistency is acquired, add the seasoning, and serve.

Time.—About 1 hour. Average Cost, 6d. to 7d.

Pepper (Fr. Poivre).—This well-known aromatic spice is a native of the East Indies, and from thence has been introduced into the West Indian Islands, and other tropical parts. The most esteemed varieties are those of Sumatra, Java, and Malacca. The pepper plant belongs to the natural order Piperaceae, its most important species being Piper nigrum, the black pepper of commerce. It is a climbing shrub, with alternate, heart-shape leathery leaves, and little globular berries, about the size of a currant, at first green, but when ripe of a bright-red colour. The peppercorns are gathered when red and exposed to the sun, when they change to a black hue. White Pepper is obtained from the finest of the berries, which are plucked when fully ripe, steeped in lime-water, and subjected to a process of rubbing, which removes the outer coat. It is less acrid than the ordinary black pepper, to which it is considered to be superior, for only the finest berries will bear such special preparation.

193.—GERMAN SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Allemande.)

Ingredients.—1 pint of good white stock, 1 tablespoonful of cream, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, the yolks of 2 eggs, a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, nutmeg, salt and pepper.

Method.—Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, stir the mixture for a few minutes without allowing it to brown, then put in the stock and stir until it boils. Let it simmer gently for ½ an hour, skim off any butter that may be floating on the top, and season to taste. Beat the yolks of the eggs and cream together, add them to the sauce, and cook gently for a few minutes until the sauce thickens, but it must not boil, or the eggs may curdle. Add the lemon, strain, or pass through a tammy-cloth, and use as required.

Time.—40 to 60 minutes. Average Cost, 1s.

The Nutmeg (Fr.: Muscade) is a native of the tropics, and is largely cultivated in the Molucca Islands, especially in the Banda group. The Dutch, when supreme in the East, sought to obtain a monopoly of this spice, by confining the growth of the nutmeg to the Island of Great Banda. It is now cultivated in Java. Sumatra, Penang, Singapore, Southern India, Madagascar, Brazil, and the West Indies. The nutmeg tree, which somewhat resembles the pear-tree in the beauty of its form, foliage, and blossom, grows to the height of about 25 feet, and begins to bear fruit in its ninth year, yielding about 8 lb. The nut is oval in shape, very hard, and of a dark-brown colour. Previous to exportation, the fruit is smoke-dried until the nut rattles in the shell, when it is extracted. There are various species of nutmegs, the chief being Myristica fragrans, which yields the chief supply, and is the most aromatic and delicate in its flavour; and 'Myristica fatua, with a longer kernel of a pale colour, but less aromatic. The nutmeg is largely used as a condiment, and in medicine as a stimulant and carminative. In large quantities it acts as a narcotic. From the nutmeg a fixed and a volatile oil are obtained.

194..—GREEN MOUSSELINE SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Mousseline Verte.)

Ingredients.—½ pint of stiff Mayonnaise sauce, ½ a teaspoonful made English mustard, ½ gill Béchamel sauce, ½ gill of cream, a few leaves of tarragon and chervil 1 teaspoonful of spinach greening, a pinch of cayenne or paprika pepper, a pinch of salt, ½ a lemon.

Method.—Mix the Mayonnaise sauce, mustard, and cream in a basin; chop the tarragon and chervil leaves and put them with the greening into the Béchamel sauce, boil for a few minutes, and pass through a fine tammy-cloth. Let the preparation cool, and incorporate it with the cold sauce. Season to taste with a little salt and pepper, and finish by working in the juice of ½ a lemon. Serve cold.

Time. 1 hour.—Average Cost, 10d. to 1s. for this quantity.

Cayenne (Fr.: Poivre de Cayenne).—The name given to the powder prepared from several varieties of the capsicum, natives of the East and West Indies, and other hot climates. The pods of the capsicum, which are of a handsome scarlet, yellow, or greenish colour, are extremely pungent to the taste, and in the green state are used as a pickle. When ripe, the pods are ground into Cayenne pepper, the most acrid and stimulating of the spices. The fruit of various species of the capsicum is sold under the name of Chilies, the Mexican name for the capsicum; the capsicums preserved in acetic acid which is called "Chili Vinegar." Capsicum is used in medicine chiefly in the form of a tincture, as a stimulant or digestive, and as a remedy for relaxed throats. Cayenne judiciously used is a valuable condiment for improving the flavour of dishes.

195.—HORSERADISH SAUCE OR CREAM. (Hot.) (Fr.—Crême de Raifort [Chaude].)

Ingredients.—1 oz. of flour, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 pint of cream, 3 tablespoonfuls of finely-grated horseradish, 1 teaspoonful of vinegar, 1 pinch of salt, ½ a teaspoonful of sugar.

Method.—Blend the flour with the butter, boil the cream, and add it to the butter and flour; stir over the fire, and boil for 5 minutes taking great care not to let it curdle. Pass through a tammy-cloth or napkin. Add the horseradish, salt and vinegar, and mix well. Serve hot with boiled fish, or roast meat, etc.

Time.—20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 1s. 9d. to 2s.

The Horseradish (Fr.: Raifort) is a cruciform plant, common to most of the temperate countries of Europe. It grows abundantly in Britain, to which, however, it is not indigenous, nor has its original habitat been ascertained. It is a well-known condiment, with a pungent taste and odour, and is, also, used as a stomachic and diuretic medicine, and externally as a blister. The root of aconite also bears some resemblance to that of the horseradish; care should, therefore, be taken to prevent accidents arising from mistaking the two roots. In the case of aconite, the root externally is of a dark-brown colour, tapering in shape, and bitter when first tasted. The root of the horseradish has a less tapering form, its odour and taste are at first pungent and acrid, and its external colour is a dirty white. A volatile oil is present in the horseradish, but its volatility is so great that even when prepared for the table, it rapidly spoils by exposure to the air. For the same reason the root should not be preserved by drying, but be kept moist by burying it in sand.

196.—HORSERADISH SAUCE (Hot). (Fr.—Sauce Raifort [Chaude].) (A more Economical Method.)

Ingredients.—2 tablespoonfuls of grated horseradish, ½ a pint of Béchamel sauce, ½ a teaspoonful of castor sugar, ½ a teaspoonful of vinegar, cayenne, and salt.

Method.—Boil up the sauce, moisten the horseradish with the vinegar, add it to the sauce with the other ingredients. Make the sauce thoroughly hot, but do not boil, after the vinegar is added, or it will curdle.

Time.—About 20 minutes. Average Cost, 4d. to 6d.

197.—HORSERADISH SAUCE (Cold). (Fr.—Sauce Raifort [Froide].)

Ingredients.—½ gill of wine vinegar, 2 hard-boiled eggs, 1 oz. of grated horseradish, ½ a teaspoonful of salt, 1 teaspoonful of castor sugar, 1 tablespoonful of cream.

Method.—Remove the yolks from the whites of the hard-boiled eggs, put them in a basin, work with a wooden spoon until quite smooth, then add the vinegar gradually, and stir the mixture until it becomes creamy. Add the grated horseradish, sugar, salt, and lastly the cream, stir a little longer, and serve in a sauceboat, or as directed.

Time.—20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to 7d.

198.—HORSERADISH SAUCE (Cold). (Fr.—Sauce Raifort [Froide].) (Another Method.)

Ingredients.—1½ ozs. of grated horseradish, 1 gill of thick cream, 1 tablespoonful of white wine vinegar, 1 teaspoonful of castor sugar, a little powdered mustard, pepper and salt.

Method.—Put the horseradish in a basin, add the sugar, mustard, salt and pepper: moisten with vinegar, stir in the cream gradually. Serve cold.

Time.—10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, 5d. to 6d.

199.—LOBSTER SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Homard.)

Ingredients.—½ pint of Béchamel sauce, a small hen lobster, 1 oz. of butter, seasoning.

Method.—Remove the coral from the lobster, wash it and pound it with the butter, and rub all through a hair sieve. Remove the meat from the tail and claws of the lobster, and cut it into small neat pieces. Warm the Béchamel sauce, add the coral-butter, mix well, then add the pieces of lobster, warm thoroughly, season, and serve.

Time.—About ½ an hour. Average Cost, 4d. without the lobster.

200.—MAÎTRE D'HÔTEL SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Maitre d'Hotel.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of Béchamel sauce, 3 ozs. of butter, the juice of ½ a lemon, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, seasoning.

Method.—Put the Béchamel in a saucepan with a little water, stir until it boils, reduce well, then add the butter a little at a time, and stir well. Strain the sauce into another saucepan, add the parsley, lemon-juice, and seasoning, reheat and serve.

Time.—25 to 35 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to 8d. for this quantity.

The Maitre d'Hotel (Fr.).—The house-steward is synonymous with the maitre d'hotel of France, and was called among the ancient Romans procurator, or major domo. In large households in Rome, the slaves, when they had procured the various articles required for the repasts of the day, returned to the spacious kitchen, with their loads of meat, game, fish, vegetables and fruit. Each one placed his basket at the feet of the major domo, who examined its contents, and registered them on his tablets. Provisions which needed no special preparation were then stored in a pantry near to the dining-room, the other comestibles being assigned to the more immediate care of the cook.

201.—MAYONNAISE SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Mayonnaise.)

Ingredients.—2 yolks of eggs, 1 teaspoonful of French mustard, ½ a teaspoonful of salt, a pinch of pepper, 1 tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar, about 1 pint of best salad oil, 1 tablespoonful of cream.

Method.—Put the yolks into a basin, add the mustard, salt and pepper, stir quickly with a wooden spoon. Add the oil, first drop by drop and afterwards more quickly, and at intervals a few drops of the vinegar By stirring well, the mixture should become the consistency of very thick cream. Lastly, add the cream, stirring all the while. A little cold water may be added if the sauce is found to be too thick.

In hot weather, the basin in which the Mayonnaise is made should be placed in a vessel of crushed ice.

Time.—About 20 minutes. Average Cost, 1s. 3d. to 1s. 6d.

202.—MELTED BUTTER. (Fr.—Sauce au Beurre.)

Ingredients.—½—a pint of water, 1 oz. of butter, ¾ of an oz. of flour, salt and pepper.

Method.—Melt the butter in a saucepan, stir in the flour and cook for 2 or 3 minutes. The water now to be added must not be quite boiling, but it may be hot, and as the sauce has to be constantly stirred until it boils to incorporate the substances contained in it, considerable time is saved by adding warm or hot water, instead of cold. Bring to the boil, and simmer for a few minutes. Season, and use as required.

Time.—10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, 2d.

203.—MELTED BUTTER. (Fr.—Sauce au Beurre.) (An Old-fashioned Method.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of hot water, ¾ oz. of fresh butter, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, salt and pepper.

Method.—Mix the flour smoothly with a little cold water in a basin, add the hot water gradually, stirring all the time. Put it into a saucepan, bring to the boil, simmer for 10 minutes, then add the salt and pepper, stir in the butter, and serve.

Time.—About 15 minuter. Average Cost, 1½d.

204.—NORMANDY SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Normande.)

Ingredients.—¾ pint white stock, ½ pint fish stock (No. 5), 2 oz. butter, 1 oz. flour, 2 yolks of eggs, lemon juice.

Method.—Melt 1 oz. of butter in a stewpan, add 1 oz. of flour, stir sufficiently long to cook the flour, moisten with the stock, and allow it to boil for 10 minutes. Skim well, and finish with a liaison or binding of 2 yolks of eggs. Stir in bit by bit 1 oz. of butter and a few drops of lemon-juice. Pass through a fine strainer or tammy-cloth, and use as directed.

Time.—10 minutes. Probable Cost, 1s. Sufficient for 1 large dish.

205.—ONION SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce aux Oignons.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of milk, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 oz. of butter, ¾ oz. of flour, 2 onions (about ½ a lb.), salt and pepper.

Method.—Peel the onions, put them into cold water, bring to the boil, and strain. Return to the saucepan with ½ a teaspoonful of salt and sufficient boiling water to cover them, and boil until tender (about 1 hour). When the onions are sufficiently cooked they must be well drained and chopped coarsely. Melt the butter in a saucepan, stir in the flour and cook for 2 or 3 minutes, then add the milk and stir until it boils. Add the onion to it, season to taste, simmer for a few minutes, then stir in the cream, and serve.

Time.—1½ to 1¾ hours. Average Cost, 4d. to 5d.

206.—PARSLEY SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce de Persil.) (For Boiled Fowl, Veal, Calf's Head, etc.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of the liquor in which the meat has been cooked, ¼ of a pint of milk, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley, salt and pepper.

Method.—Melt the butter in a saucepan, stir in the flour, cook for 2 or 3 minutes, then add the liquor and milk, and stir until it boils. Simmer for a few minutes, season to taste, add the parsley, and use as required. If the parsley is allowed to boil in the sauce it will lose some of its green colour.

Time.—20 to 25 minutes. Average Cost, 3d.

Parsley (Fr.: Persil).—The common parsley is a well-known garden vegetable, and has long been cultivated for seasoning and garnishing dishes, and for flavouring soups. The leaf-stalks of one variety of parsley, the celery-leaved, are blanched and eaten like celery. Parsley was known to the ancient Greeks, reference being made to it in the Iliad, and among the Romans it was used as a symbol of mourning, and placed on the tables at funeral feasts. The Carthagenians found it in Sardinia, and introduced the herb to the inhabitants of Marseilles. There are various quaint superstitions connected with parsley, some of which survive to the present day in England and Scotland.

207.—POULETTE SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Poulette.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of Béchamel sauce, 1 raw yolk of egg, 1 tablespoonful of cream, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt and pepper.

Method.—Mix the yolk of the egg and the cream together. Have the sauce nearly boiling in a saucepan, pour in the egg and cream, and stir for a few minutes, but the preparation must not boil, or the egg may curdle. Add the parsley and lemon-juice, season to taste, and serve.

Time.—About 10 minutes. Average Cost, 5d. to 6d.

208.—SALAD DRESSING (French.) (Fr.—Sauce Remoulade.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of salad oil, 2 tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, 1 teaspoonful of made mustard, 1 yolk of egg, a few leaves of tarragon parsley and chives, a pinch of castor sugar, salt and pepper.

Method.—Blanch the herbs, drain, and chop finely. Put the yolk of egg into a basin, add the seasoning, work in the oil and vinegar, stirring the ingredients vigorously with a wooden spoon. Then add the herbs, mustard, and sugar.

Time.—20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 8d. to 9d. for this quantity.

Tarragon (Fr.:Estragon).—The leaves of this aromatic plant, known to botanists as Artemisia dracunculus, are much used in France as a flavouring ingredient for salads. From it is made tarragon vinegar, which the French employ to mix their mustard. It is also used as a pickle, and as a flavour for fish-sauces. From one species of the genus Artemisia, which grows in Switzerland, the bitter aromatic cordial, absinthe, is prepared. The common wormwood, Artemisia absinthum, was known to the Greeks, who valued it as a medicinal plant.

209.—SALAD DRESSING (made without oil.)

Ingredients.—2 hard-boiled eggs, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar, 1 teaspoonful of mixed mustard, ¼ of a teaspoonful each of pepper, salt, and castor sugar.

Method.—Pound the yolks of the eggs in a mortar, then put them into a basin, and add the mustard, salt, pepper and sugar, add the cream gradually, and stir vigorously until it becomes very thick. Add the vinegar drop by drop just at the last.

Time.—About 20 minutes. Average Cost, from 6d. to 7d.

210.—SORREL SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce à l'Oseille.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of White Sauce (see page 233) a good handful of sorrel, salt and pepper.

Method.—Wash and pick the sorrel, put it into a saucepan without any water, and cook until tender. Chop finely, and rub through a hair sieve. Have the sauce boiling in a saucepan, add to it the purée, stir and cook for 3 or 4 minutes, season to taste, and serve.

Time.—50 to 60 minutes. Average Cost. 4d.

211.—SOUBISE SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Soubise.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of Béchamel Sauce, or other good white sauce, 2 tablespoonfuls of white stock, 2 Spanish onions, sugar, salt and pepper.

Method.—Peel and parboil the onions in salted water, then drain well and chop them finely. Put the prepared onions and stock into a stewpan, cover closely, cook slowly until reduced to a pulp, and add the sauce. Simmer gently until reduced to the right consistency, then add a pinch of sugar, season to taste, and use as required.

Time.—About 1 hour. Average Cost, 6d. to 7d.

212.—SUPREME SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Suprême.)

Ingredients.—1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 1½ pints of chicken stock, 1 small onion, 1 clove, ½ a bay-leaf, 1½ ozs. of fresh butter, 1 tablespoonful cream, 1 yolk of egg, the juice of ½ a lemon.

Method.—Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, cook well over fire, but do not let it brown, then add stock, onion, clove, and bay-leaf. Stir until boiling, simmer for 15 minutes, and skim well. Now work in the fresh butter, cream, and yolk of egg, cook for 3 minutes, but do not let the sauce boil. Add the lemon-juice, pass the sauce through a tammy-cloth, warm, and serve.

Time.—About ½ an hour. Average Cost, 6d. exclusive of the stock.

213.—TARTARE SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Tartare.)

Ingredients.—¼ of a pint of Mayonnaise sauce, 1 tablespoonful of chopped gherkin or capers, ½ a teaspoonful of very finely-chopped shallot (this may be omitted).

Method.—Stir the gherkin and onion lightly into the mayonnaise, and use as required.

Time.—25 minutes altogether. Average Cost, 5d. to 7d.

214.—TOURNÉE SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Tournée.)

Ingredients.—1 pint of white stock, 2 ozs. of butter, 1½ ozs. of flour, 6 spring onions, 6 small mushrooms coarsely-chopped, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), salt and pepper.

Method.—Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the flour, stir and cook for a few minutes without browning, and put in the stock. Add the white part of the onions, the bouquet-garni, mushrooms, and a little salt and pepper, simmer gently for 20 minutes, then strain and use as required.

Time.—About ½ an hour. Average Cost, 10d. to 1s.

215.—VALOIS SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Valois.)

Ingredients.—1 pint of strong chicken stock, 4 yolks of eggs, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 dessertspoonfuls of white vinegar, 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley, 2 shallots finely-chopped, salt and pepper.

Method.—Boil the stock gently until reduced to a quarter of the original quantity. Put the vinegar and shallots into another saucepan, simmer gently until considerably reduced, and add the prepared stock. Beat the yolks of the eggs well, stir them into the contents of the saucepan when just below boiling point, whisk until the preparation thickens, and season to taste. Add the butter bit by bit, whisking between each addition, and just before serving stir in the parsley.

Time.—Altogether, about 1½ hours. Average Cost, 7d., exclusive of the stock.

216.—VELOUTÉ SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Velouté.)

Ingredients.—1½ ozs. butter, ½ oz. of sifted flour, 1 pint of good white stock, ½ a bay leaf, 8 peppercorns.

Method.—Melt 1 oz. of butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour, cook a little without browning, moisten with the stock, add the bay-leaf and peppercorns, stir and simmer slowly for ½ an hour, take off the scum, press through a tammy-cloth or napkin, return to the stewpan, and finish with the remainder of the butter, or a little thick cream. Use as required.

Time.—50 to 60 minutes. Average Cost, 10d. to 1s.

Note.—The stock from which Velouté sauce should be made is prepared from veal bones, chicken bones, and trimming, a flavouring of carrot, onion, bonquet-garni, the needful amount of seasoning, and an appropriate quantity of water, i.e. 1 quart of water to 1½ lbs. of meat and vegetables.

217.—VELOUTÉ OR VELVET SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Velouté.) (Another method.)

Ingredients.—1 oz. of flour, 1½ ozs. of butter, 1 pint of veal stock, ¼ of a gill of mushroom liquor, ½ a gill of cream, 1 bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 6 peppercorns, salt, nutmeg, and lemon-juice.

Method.—Melt the butter, stir in the flour, cook over the fire for a few minutes, but do not let the flour brown. Add stock, mushroom liquor, bouquet-garni, and crushed peppercorns. Boil slowly for 20 minutes, skim well. Pass through a tammy-cloth, warm up, and just before serving add cream, seasoning, and lemon-juice.

Time.—About ½ an hour. Average Cost, 10d. to 1s.

218.—VINAIGRETTE SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Vinaigrette.) (For Asparagus, Calf's Head, Brains, etc.)

Ingredients.—4 tablespoonfuls of salad oil, 2 tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, ½ a teaspoonful each of finely-chopped gherkin, shallot and parsley, salt and pepper.

Method.—Mix all well together, and use as required.

Time.—About 5 minutes. Average Cost, 4d. or 5d.

219.—WHITE ITALIAN SAUCE.

Ingredients.—¼ of a pint of good white stock, ¾ of a pint of Béchamel sauce, 1 tablespoonful of cream, 1 oz. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped fresh button mushrooms, 1 dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 1 shallot finely chopped, salt and pepper.

Method.—Melt the butter in a stewpan, put in the mushrooms and shallot, and fry without browning for about 10 minutes. Add the stock, cover closely, and simmer until reduced to about ½ the original quantity. Put in the Béchamel sauce and boil up, then add seasoning to taste, the chopped parsley and cream, and use as required.

Time.—40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, 10d. to 1s.

220.—WHITE MUSHROOM SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce aux Champignons [Blanche].)

Ingredients.—1½ gills of Béchamel sauce, 1½ gills of veal stock, 8 or 10 preserved mushrooms, ½ a gill of the liquor, ½ a gill of Chablis, 1 dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, 1 tablespoonful of cream.

Method.—Boil the stock and Béchamel together until reduced to half the original quantity. Add the mushrooms sliced, the liquor, lemon-juice, and wine. Boil again, skim, season, and add the cream.

Time.—20 to 25 minutes. Average Cost, 1s. 2d. to 1s. 4d.

221.—WHITE SAUCE FOR VEGETABLES, VEAL, RABBIT, AND POULTRY. (Fr.—Sauce Blanche.)

Ingredients.—1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, ½ a pint of milk, ½ a gill of white stock, ½ a bay-leaf, salt and white pepper.

Method.—Melt the butter in a small saucepan, stir in the flour, and cook for a few minutes without allowing the flour to brown. Dilute with the milk, stir till it boils, then add the stock and bay-leaf, and let simmer for at least 10 minutes. Remove the bay-leaf, season to taste, and strain.

Time.—25 to 35 minutes. Average Cost, 4d.

222.—WHITE SAUCE WITHOUT STOCK. (Fr.—Sauce Blanche.) (For Vegetables Meat, Poultry, etc.)

Ingredients.—1 pint of milk, 1 tablespoonful of cream (this may be omitted), 2 ozs. of butter, 1½ ozs. of flour, 1 small carrot, 1 small onion, 1 strip of celery, 1 bay-leaf, salt, 10 peppercorns.

Method.—Cut the carrot and celery into rather large pieces, put them with the milk, onion, and bay-leaf into a saucepan, and simmer gently for about ½ an hour. If the milk reduces in simmering, add more to make up the original quantity. Melt the butter in another saucepan, stir in the flour, and cook for 7 or 8 minutes without browning. Let this roux cool slightly, then add to it the milk and vegetables, and whisk briskly until it boils. Simmer for 10 minutes, strain through a tammy-cloth, or rub through a fine hair sieve, re-heat, season to taste add the cream, and use.

Time.—About 50 minutes. Average Cost, 6d.

Note.—For white sauces made with stock, see Béchamel, page 221, Velouté, page 232, and Allemande, page 219.

223.—WHITE SAUCE FOR VEGETABLES, MEAT, POULTRY, OR FISH. (Economical.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of milk, ½ a pint of either water, fish stock, or liquor in which meat or poultry has been boiled, 1½ ozs. butter, 2ozs. of flour, mace or nutmeg, salt and pepper.

Method.—Melt the butter in a saucepan, stir in the flour and cook for 5 minutes, add the milk and stock, stir until it boils, then simmer gently for 10 minutes. Season to taste, add a pinch of nutmeg, and use as required.

Time.—25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 3d.

Note.—Onion cooked and chopped and parsley chopped should be added to these sauces before serving. Oysters, mussels, cockles, a few minutes before serving, but the sauce must not boil after these additions.

224.—ASPIC CREAM.

Ingredients.—1½ gills of aspic jelly, 1 gill of double cream, a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, a pinch of white pepper, and a pinch of castor sugar.

Method.—Put the cream into a basin, stir it with a whisk, and gradually add the aspic, which must be liquid, and add the lemon-juice and seasoning, pass through a tammy or fine strainer, and use to mark chickens, etc.

Brown Sauces.

225.—BACON SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce au Lard Fumé.)

Ingredients.—¼ a lb. of ham or bacon cut into dice, 1 small onion finely-chopped, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, ½ a pint of water, salt and pepper.

Method.—Fry the bacon slightly, add the onion, sprinkle in the flour, and fry slowly until lightly browned. Season to taste, add the vinegar and water, stir until boiling, then pour over the previously cooked potatoes, and serve as an accompaniment with roast chicken or veal.

Time.—About 20 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to 8d.

226.—BIGARADE SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Bigarade.) (For Roast Duck or Goose.)

Ingredients.—½ a Seville orange, ½ a pint of brown sauce, ½ a pint of good stock, 1 glass of port wine, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt and pepper.

Method.—Strain the juice of the orange. Cut the rind into very fine strips, cover with cold water and bring to the boil. Simmer gently from 10 to 15 minutes, then strain and drain well. Mix the brown sauce, stock and orange-juice together, and boil until reduced to half the original quantity. Strain, return to the saucepan, add the prepared orange-rind, lemon-juice and port wine, season to taste, boil and use as required.

Time.—From 35 to 45 minutes. Average Cost, 1s.

227.—BORDELAISE SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Bordelaise.)

Ingredients.—¾ of a pint of Espagnole sauce, 1 glass of claret, 2 finely-chopped shallots, ½ an oz. of glaze, 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley, tarragon and chervil, a pinch of sugar, seasoning.

Method.—Put the wine and shallots into a saucepan, and reduce to half the quantity. Add the sauce and cook slowly for 20 minutes. Skim, and add the rest of the ingredients, boil up, and serve.

Time.—About 40 minutes. Average Cost, 1s. 6d.

228.—BRAIN SAUCE FOR SHEEPS' HEAD.

Ingredients.—2 sheeps' brains, ¾ of a pint of liquor in which the heads were cooked, 1½ ozs. of butter, 1½ ozs. of flour, 1 small onion chopped, 1 teaspoonful of vinegar, salt and pepper.

Method.—Wash and soak the brains in salt and water. Tie them in muslin, and cook them until firm in the pot containing the sheeps' heads. Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, cook it slowly until lightly browned, then put in the onion, and continue to cook slowly until the whole acquires a nut-brown colour. Add the pot-liquor, vinegar, salt and pepper to taste, simmer gently for 10 minutes, then stir in the brains previously coarsely-chopped, and serve poured over the prepared heads, or separately.

Time.—Altogether, 1 hour. Average Cost, 2d., in addition to the brains.

229.—BRETONNE SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Bretonne.)

Ingredients.—¾ of a pint of brown sauce, 1 tablespoonful of haricot purée, 1 onion sliced, ½ an oz. of butter, salt and pepper.

Method.—Melt the butter, fry the onion until well-browned, add the haricot purée and brown sauce, and bring to the boil. Season to taste, simmer for 5 minutes, then pass through a fine strainer or tammy cloth, re-heat, and use as required.

Time.—From 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 8d.

230.—BROWN CAPER SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce aux Câpres Brunes.) (For Steak, Kidneys, Fish.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of Espagnole sauce, or brown sauce, 1 teaspoonful of vinegar, 1 teaspoonful of essence of anchovy, 1 tablespoonful of capers cut in two, 1 small onion very finely-chopped, cayenne, the juice of half a lemon.

Method.—Put the sauce, vinegar, essence of anchovy and onion into a saucepan, boil, simmer for 10 minutes, and strain. Return to the saucepan, and when quite hot add the cayenne, lemon-juice and capers and serve.

Time.—About 20 minutes. Average Cost, 11d.

231.—BROWN MUSHROOM SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce aux Champignons [Brune].)

Ingredients.—8 preserved mushrooms, ½ a gill of the liquor, ½ a gill of sherry, ½ a gill of thin Espagnole sauce.

Method.—Chop the mushrooms finely, put them in a stewpan with the liquor and the sherry, cover the pan, and boil well. Add the Espagnole, boil up again, then season and serve.

Time.—From 20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 8d.

The Mushroom (Fr. champignon).—This highly-esteemed fungus is found in all parts of the world, and is remarkable for the rapidity of its growth. The species, and its several varieties, most usually cultivated for table use is Agaricus campestris. For culinary purposes the mushroom is of much importance, and from it ketchup is prepared, which forms the basis of numerous sauces. There are some 500 species of British mushrooms, and of these many are more or less poisonous, as the Fly mushroom (Agaricus muscarius), which has a warted orange or scarlet cap, and possesses highly narcotic properties, causing delirium and death if eaten. Great care should be taken in gathering mushrooms to ensure that they are of the edible kind.

232.—BROWN ONION SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Bretonne.)

Ingredients.—2 Spanish onions, ½ a pint of Espagnole sauce, ½ a gill of haricot beans, seasoning, 2 ozs. of butter.

Method.—Soak the haricot beans for 12 hours, then put them on to boil in salt and water, and when tender rub them through a hair sieve. Skin and chop the onions, fry them in the butter, then add the sauce, and boil slowly until the onions are tender. Pass the mixture through a hair sieve, add the haricot purée, warm thoroughly, season, and serve.

Time.—From 2 to 2½ hours. Average Cost, 10d.

233.—BROWN SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Brune.)

Ingredients.—1 pint of brown stock, 2 ozs. of butter, 1½ ozs. of flour, 1 small carrot, 1 small onion, 6 fresh button mushrooms (when in season), 1 tomato, salt and pepper.

Method.—Slice the mushrooms, carrot, and onion, and fry them until brown in the butter. Sprinkle in the flour, stir and cook for a few minutes, then add the sliced tomato and stock, and stir until it boils. Simmer for 10 minutes, season to taste, strain or pass through a tammy-cloth, re-heat, and serve. Preserved mushrooms may be used, but they do not impart the same flavour to the sauce. A tablespoonful of GOOD mushroom ketchup is an improvement.

Time.—40 to 45 minutes. Average Cost, about 6d., exclusive of the stock.

234.—BROWN SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Brune.) (Inexpensive.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of stock or water, 1 oz. of butter or sweet dripping, 1 oz. of flour, 1 small carrot, 1 small onion, salt and pepper.

Method.—Cut the carrot and onion into small pieces. Melt the butter in a saucepan, put in the flour and vegetables, and fry until brown, An occasional stir is necessary to prevent the ingredients burning, but if they are constantly stirred they brown less quickly. Add the water or stock, stir until it boils, simmer for 10 minutes, then season to taste, and use. A few drops of browning (see page 214) may be added when the sauce is too light in colour.

Time.—25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 2d. without the stock.

235.—CALF'S HEAD, SAUCE FOR.

Ingredients.—1 pint of the liquor in which the head was boiled, 2 ozs. of butter, 1½ ozs. of flour, 1 dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, the juice and finely-grated rind of ½ a lemon, 1 onion sliced, salt and pepper.

Method.—Fry the onion in the butter until well-browned, sprinkle in the flour and brown it also, then add the stock. Simmer gently for ½ an hour to reduce, then strain. Return to the saucepan, and add the parsley, lemon-rind, lemon-juice, and seasoning to taste, make thoroughly hot, and serve.

Time.—From 50 to 60 minutes. Average Cost, 3½d.

236.—CARROT SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce au Carotte.)

Ingredients.—¾ of a pint of stock, No. 7, 1 large carrot grated, 1 oz. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt and pepper.

Method.—Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the carrot, and let it cook gently for 10 minutes. Add the stock, season to taste, and simmer gently for ½ an hour. Return to the saucepan, strain, add the parsley and lemon-juice, bring to the boil, and use as required.

Time.—45 to 55 minutes. Average Cost, 7d.

237.—CHRISTOPHER NORTH'S SAUCE. (For Meat or Game.)

Ingredients.—1 glass of port, 2 tablespoonfuls of good brown sauce, 1 dessertspoonful of mushroom ketchup, 1 dessertspoonful of pounded white sugar, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, ½ a teaspoonful of cayenne pepper, ½ a teaspoonful of salt.

Method.—Mix all the ingredients thoroughly together and heat the sauce gradually, by placing the vessel in which it is made in a saucepan of boiling water. Do not allow it to boil, and serve directly it is ready. This sauce, if bottled immediately, will keep for a fortnight, and will be found excellent.

Time.—15 minutes. Average Cost, 10d.

238.—CHUTNEY SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce au Mangul.)

Make a sauce the same as for venison (see page 251) omitting the red currant jelly, and adding instead 1 heaped-up tablespoonful of mango chutney, chopped rather finely.

239.—CIDER SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce au Cidre.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of cider, ¾ of a pint of brown sauce, 2 cloves, 1 bay-leaf, salt and pepper.

Method.—Simmer the whole until reduced to the desired consistency, then pass through a fine strainer or tammy cloth, re-heat, and serve as a substitute for champagne sauce for braised ham or duck.

Time.—About ½ an hour. Average Cost, 6d. to 9d.

240.—CURRANT SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce au Corinthe.)

Ingredients.—2 ozs. of currants cleaned, 2 ozs. of butter, 1½ ozs. of flour, ¾ of a pint of water, 1 glass of red wine, 1 dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, ½ a teaspoonful of finely-grated lemon-rind, ¼ of a teaspoonful of ground ginger, sugar to taste.

Method.—Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the flour, and cook gently until it acquires a light brown colour. Put in the wine and water, bring to the boil, add the lemon-rind and lemon-juice, ginger, currants, and sugar to taste. Simmer gently for 10 minutes, then serve without straining.

Time.—About ½ an hour. Average Cost, 6d. to 8d.

241.—CURRY SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce au Kari.)

Ingredients.—¾ of a pint of good stock, 1½ ozs. of butter, 1 tablespoonful of curry powder, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1 tomato sliced, 1 small onion sliced, salt.

Method.—Melt the butter in a saucepan, fry the onion until lightly browned, then add the flour and curry powder. Stir and cook gently for a few minutes, then add the stock, and bring to the boil. Put in the tomato, and seasoning to taste. Simmer gently for 20 minutes, then strain and serve.

Time.—From 35 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, 8d. to 10d.

242.—DEMI-GLACE SAUCE (Half Glaze). (Fr.—Sauce Demi-Glace.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of Espagnole sauce, ¼ of a pint of good gravy.

Method.—Strain the gravy and remove all the fat. Put the sauce and gravy into a saucepan, boil until well reduced, skim well, and serve.

Time.—About ½ an hour. Average Cost, 4d. to 5d. without the gravy.

243.—DEVILLED SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce à la Diable.) (For Devilled Bones, etc.)

Ingredients.—2 tablespoonfuls of Harvey sauce, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 2 tablespoonfuls of butter (melted), 1 teaspoonful of mustard, salt, and cayenne.

Method.—Mix all the ingredients together in a deep dish. Score the legs of a cooked chicken, etc., lengthwise, and soak well in the sauce. Grill, or fry in a little hot fat or butter, serve very hot.

Time.—About 1 hour. Average Cost, 3d. to 4d. for this quantity of sauce.

244.—ESPAGNOLE OR SPANISH SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Espagnole.)

Ingredients.—1 quart of stock, 1 oz. of raw lean ham or bacon, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of flour, 1 carrot, 1 onion, 1 clove, 4 peppercorns, 1 bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), ½ a gill of tomato pulp, ½ gill of sherry, 2 mushrooms.

Method.—Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the ham, cut into small pieces, fry for a few minutes, and then put in the vegetables sliced, the herbs, and spices. Stir these ingredients over a slow fire for about 5 minutes, then add the flour and brown it carefully. Add the stock, tomato-pulp, and sherry, stir the sauce until boiling, draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, let it boil slowly for about 1 hour, then skim off the fat, pass the sauce through a tammy-cloth, season, warm up, and serve.

Time.—About 1½ hours. Average Cost, 1s. 4d. Quantity, 1 pint.

245.—FINANCIÈRE SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Financière.)

Ingredients.—1 pint of brown sauce, 1 glass of sherry, ½ an oz. of meat glaze, Financière garnish of cocks'-combs, truffles and small mushrooms, salt and pepper.

Method.—Make the brown sauce as directed, add the sherry and meat glaze, and simmer gently until considerably reduced. Pass through a fine strainer or tammy cloth, re-heat, add the Financière garnish, season to taste, and use as required.

Time.—About 1 hour. Average Cost, 2s. 6d., exclusive of the Financière.

246.—FINANCIÈRE SAUCE. (Another way.)

Ingredients.—¾ of a pint of brown sauce, 1 glass of sherry or Madeira, 1 tablespoonful of tomato purée, 1 tablespoonful of chicken-essence, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom liquor, 2 tablespoonfuls of truffle liquor, salt and pepper.

Method.—Make the brown sauce as directed, add the rest of the ingredients, simmer gently until well reduced, and pass through a fine strainer or tammy cloth. Re-heat, season to taste, and use as required.

Time.—About 1 hour. Average Cost, 1s. 3d. to 1s. 9d.

247.—FINANCIÈRE SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Financière.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of Espagnole sauce, ½ an oz. of glaze, 1 glass of sherry, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom liquor, financière garnish.

Method.—Put all ingredients in a saucepan, let them come to the boil, and cook slowly until well reduced. A garnish of truffles, small mushrooms, and cocks'-combs is added to the sauce before serving.

Time.—About ½ an hour. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. to 3s. 6d.

248.—GAME SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Gibier.)

Ingredients.—1 pint of Espagnole sauce, 1 glass of sherry, 1 small onion, ½ a small carrot, ¼ of a small turnip, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), a blade of mace, 1 clove, salt, pepper, the trimmings and carcasses of game; those of grouse or woodcock are preferable.

Method.—Chop the bones and trimmings of game into small pieces, cut the vegetables into thin slices. Put all these ingredients into a saucepan, add the sherry, herbs, flavourings and seasoning, and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the Espagnole sauce, bring to the boil, skin, and cook slowly for 15 minutes, pass through a tammy-cloth, re-heat, add salt and pepper if necessary, and serve.

Time.—From 30 to 35 minutes. Average Cost, about 1s. to 1s. 3d., without the game.

249.—GHERKIN OR CORNICHON SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce aux Cornichons.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of brown sauce, 1 tablespoonful of finely-chopped gherkins, salt and pepper.

Method.—Make the sauce as directed, add the prepared gherkins, season to taste, and use as required.

Time.—About ½ an hour. Average Cost, 6d.

250.—HAM SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce au Jambon.) (For Veal, Duck, Game, etc.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of Espagnole sauce, or brown sauce, 2 tablespoonfuls of finely-shredded or coarsely-chopped ham, 1 dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt and pepper.

Mode.—Make the sauce hot in a saucepan, add the ham, and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from the fire, put in the parsley, lemon-juice, season, and serve.

Time.—10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, 10d. to 1s.

251.—INDIAN SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce à l' Indienne.)

Ingredients.—¾ of a pint of stock, 1½ ozs. of butter, 1 tablespoonful of curry powder, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1 teaspoonful of chutney, 1 sour apple sliced, 1 onion sliced, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt.

Method.—Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the onion brown, sprinkle in the flour and curry powder, and cook gently for 10 or 15 minutes. Add the stock, bring to the boil, put in the apple, chutney, and a good pinch of salt, and simmer gently for 20 minutes. Strain, re-heat, add the lemon-juice, and use as required.

Time.—45 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, 8d. to 9d.

252.—ITALIAN SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Italienne.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of Espagnole sauce, 4 small shallots chopped, 4 fresh mushrooms coarsely chopped, 1 sprig of thyme, 1 bay-leaf, a tablespoonful of sweet oil, 1 glass of chablis, ½ a gill of stock.

Method.—Put the shallots in a small piece of muslin, and squeeze them in cold water to extract some of the flavour, then place them in a stewpan with the oil, cook for a few minutes, but do not brown. Add the wine, mushrooms, herbs and stock, reduce well, and add the Espagnole. Boil for 10 minutes, take out the herbs, skim off the oil, and serve.

Time.—From 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 1s. 1d. to 1s. 3d.

253.—ITALIAN SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Italienne.) (Another Method.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of Espagnole sauce, 4 small shallots, 8 preserved mushrooms, a sprig of thyme, 1 bay-leaf, 1 tablespoonful of sweet oil, 1 glass of Chablis or Sauterne, ½ a gill of stock.

Method.—Peel the shallots, chop them finely, place them in the corner of a clean cloth, hold tightly wrapped up under cold water, and squeeze well. Put them in a small stewpan with the oil, stir over the fire for a few minutes, to blend but not to colour. Add the wine, the mushrooms (finely chopped), herbs, and the stock, let it reduce well, and add the Espagnole. Boil for 10 minutes, take out the herbs, free the sauce from the oil, and keep hot in the bain-marie until required.

Time.—1 hour. Average Cost, for this quantity, 1s. 1d. to 1s. 3d. Sufficient for two small dishes.

The Shallot, or Eschalot (Fr. éschalote) is a species of onion, Allium Ascalonicum, with compound bulbs, which separate into "cloves" like garlic. It is the mildest flavoured of all the onions. The shallot is used to flavour soups and made-dishes, and in the raw state makes an excellent pickle. The name is said to be derived from Ascalon, in the vicinity of which it was found growing wild by the Crusaders, who brought it back with them to England.

254.—KIDNEY SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce aux Rognons.)

Ingredients.—¼ of a lb. of ox kidney, ½ a pint of stock or water, ½ an oz. of butter, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, salt and pepper.

Method.—Remove every particle of fat, and cut the kidney into small pieces. Melt the butter, fry the kidney for a few minutes, then sprinkle in the flour. Stir and cook until the flour is slightly browned, then add the stock and season to taste. Bring to the boil, simmer gently for 20 minutes, then strain and serve.

Time.—35 to 45 minutes. Average Cost, 3d. without the stock.

255.—MADEIRA SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Madère.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of Espagnole sauce, ¼ of a pint of good gravy, 1 oz. of meat glaze, 1 glass of Madeira or sherry, salt and pepper.

Method.—Simmer the sauce, gravy and wine until well reduced. Season to taste, put in the meat glaze, stir until it is dissolved, then strain the sauce, and use as required.

Time.—About ½ hour. Average Cost, 1s. 3d. to 1s. 6d. for this quantity. Sufficient for ⅔ of a pint of sauce.

256.—MINT SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce à la Menthe.) (To Serve with Roast Lamb.)

Ingredients.—4 dessertspoonfuls of chopped mint, 2 dessertspoonfuls of sugar, ¼ of a pint of vinegar.

Method.—The mint should be young and fresh-gathered. Wash it free from grit, pick the leaves from the stalks, mince them very fine, put them into a tureen, add the sugar and vinegar, and stir till the former is dissolved. This sauce is better by being made 2 or 3 hours before it is required for the table, as the vinegar then becomes impregnated with the flavour of the mint. Good white wine vinegar is preferable to ordinary malt vinegar. Sugar should be added with discretion until the required degree of sweetness is obtained.

Average Cost.—3d. Sufficient to serve with a quarter of lamb.

Mint (Fr. menthe), a genus of aromatic perennial herbs of the genus Mentha, widely distributed throughout the temperate regions, some of them being common to Britain. The spear mint, Mentha veridis, is the species most cultivated in gardens, and used in various ways for culinary purposes, and as a sauce with vinegar and sugar. From the leaves of the Peppermint (Mentha piperita) essential oil is distilled, which is largely used as an aromatic, a carminative, and a stimulant medicine.

257.—MUSHROOM SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Champignons.)

Ingredients.—¾ of a pint of brown sauce, ½ a pint of button mushrooms, 1 oz. of butter, salt and pepper.

Method.—Peel the mushrooms and remove the stalks. Heat the butter in a stewpan, put in the mushrooms, and toss them over the fire for 10 minutes. Drain off any butter that remains unabsorbed, add the brown sauce, season to taste, make thoroughly hot, and serve.

Time.—About 20 minutes. Average Cost, 7d., in addition to the sauce.

258.—MUSHROOM SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce aux Champignons.) (Another way.)

Ingredients.—½ a lb. of mushrooms, ¾ of a pint of boiling stock, 1½ ozs. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, salt and pepper.

Method.—Melt 1 oz. of butter in a stewpan, add the flour, and cook slowly until it acquires a nut-brown colour. Meanwhile, peel and chop the mushrooms coarsely, and fry them for 10 minutes in the remainder of the butter. When ready, add the stock to the blended butter and flour, stir until it boils, and season to taste. Simmer gently for 10 minutes, then add the prepared mushrooms, make thoroughly hot, and use as required.

Time.—About 30 minutes. Average Cost, 7d., in addition to the mushrooms.

259.—OLIVE SAUCE FOR POULTRY AND MEAT. (Fr.—Sauce aux Olives.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of Espagnole sauce, ¼ of a pint of good stock, 1½ doz. small olives, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice.

Method.—Carefully stone the olives by paring them round in ribbons so that they may be replaced in their original shape. Put them into cold water, bring to the boil, and drain well. Have the sauce and stock ready boiling, put in the olives, simmer gently for ½ an hour, then add the lemon-juice, season, and serve.

Time.—40 to 45 minutes. Average Cost, 1s. 9d. to 2s.

The Olive (Fr. olive).—The picturesque olive-tree is indigenous to Syria and other warm Asiatic countries, and flourishes in Spain and Italy. It was well-known in Greece, Solon, in the sixth century, b.c., enacting laws for its cultivation. By Greek colonists it was introduced into the countries bordering upon the Mediterranean, and is now also cultivated in Peru and California. The olive was first planted in England in the seventeenth century, but its fruit does not ripen in the open air in northern climates. From early ages the olive-tree has been highly esteemed both for its fruit, and for the valuable oil extracted from it. Many associations sacred and classic are connected with the olive-tree, which by the Romans was held to be sacred to the goddess Minerva. Wreaths of wild olive constituted the prizes awarded to the victors in the classic races at Olympia, and an olive branch was, and is still, regarded as the symbol of peace. The Mount of Olives was the scene of four of the principal events in the life of the Founder of Christianity, and at its foot is the traditional site of the Garden of Gethsemane. In the Old Testament many allusions are made by the prophetical and other writers to the olive. The olive-tree attains to a great age: some specimens on the Mount of Olives are estimated to have been 2,000 years in existence. Olives, commonly pickled in brine, are chiefly used in England for dessert or between courses, to remove the flavour of the viands previously eaten.

There are three principal kinds of olives which are imported, those from Provence, in France from Spain, and from Italy: those from Lucca are esteemed the best. One species of olive, Olea fragrans, is largely used by the Chinese to perfume tea. The wood of the olive-tree is a yellowish-brown, and is employed for inlaying and ornamental purposes. The wood of an American species, Olea Americana, from its excessive hardness, is called "devil-wood." From the fruit of the olive-tree the valuable olive-oil is obtained, the quality of the oil differing according to the soil on which the olive is grown, and the care taken in extracting and preparing it. It is much used as an article of food in the countries where it is produced, and enters into the composition of many dishes. In England it is chiefly used for dressing-salads, and other culinary purposes. Olive-oil, the lightest of all the fixed oils, is used in medicine, and also in the arts and manufactures. "Gallipoli oil" is largely employed in Turkey-red dyeing, and for making special kinds of soap. Sardines are preserved in olive-oil.

260.—ORANGE SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce au Jus d'Orange.)

Ingredients.—1 orange, ½ pint Espagnole sauce, ½ pint stock, or roast meat gravy, lemon juice, red currant jelly, salt, pepper.

Method.—Peel an orange thinly, and cut the peel into strips (julienne fashion), put them in a stewpan with sufficient water to cover, boil for 5 minutes, and drain in a sieve. Put in a stewpan, the Espagnole sauce, stock, and ½ the juice of the orange. Allow all to reduce to half its quantity. Add the orange peel, a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, and a teaspoonful of red currant jelly, season with pepper and salt, boil up again, and serve with roast wild duck, wild boar, or other game.

Time.—25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 10d., without the stock.

261.—ORANGE SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce à l'Orange.) (For Roast Wild Duck, Wild Fowl, Widgeon, Veal, etc.)

Ingredients.—½ a gill of brown sauce, 1 gill gravy, juice of an orange, salt and pepper, the end of an orange finely shredded.

Mix the brown sauce with the meat gravy; to this add the juice of the orange, and boil. Skim, and season with salt and pepper. Stir in the rind of ½ an orange, boil again, and serve.

Time.—10 minutes. Average Cost, 4d.

Note.—If liked, a small shallot finely-chopped, and ½ a glass of port wine or claret can be added, and cooked with the above sauce; this is considered an improvement.

262.—ORANGE SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Bigarade.)

Ingredients.—1 Seville orange, ½ a pint Espagnole sauce, ½ a pint of good stock, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, 1 glass of port wine, cayenne, salt.

Method.—Remove the rind from half the orange, and cut it in very thin shreds. Boil these in water for 5 minutes. Put the sauce and stock into a stewpan with the juice of ½ the orange, and reduce to half quantity. Strain, add all the other ingredients, boil, skim, add the shreds of orange rind, and serve.

Time.—25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 1s. 4d.

263.—PARISIAN SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Parisienne.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of brown sauce, 1 oz. of butter, ¼ of an oz. of meat glaze, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, ½ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 2 shallots, very finely chopped, salt and pepper.

Method.—Heat the sauce, add the meat glaze, lemon-juice, parsley and shallots, and simmer gently for 15 minutes. Season to taste, whisk in the butter bit by bit, then serve as an accompaniment to steaks or fillets of beef.

Time.—About ½ an hour. Average Cost, 8d.

264.—PEPPER SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Poivrade.)

Ingredients.—¾ of a pint of Espagnole sauce, ½ an oz. of butter, ½ a small carrot, ½ a small onion, 18 peppercorns, 1 bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, 2 cloves, ½ an oz. of raw ham.

Method.—Mix the onion and carrot, cut the ham into small pieces; fry in the butter for 3 minutes, and add all the other ingredients. Skim, boil for 10 minutes, strain, and serve.

Time.—From 15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, 1s. 2d.

265.—PIQUANTE SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Piquante.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of brown sauce, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 1 tablespoonful of capers cut in two, 1 tablespoonful of gherkin coarsely chopped, 1 small onion finely chopped, salt and pepper.

Method.—Put the onion and vinegar into a small saucepan, let them boil until considerably reduced, then add the brown sauce, capers, gherkin, salt and pepper if necessary, bring to the boil, simmer for 5 minutes, and serve.

Time.—About ½ an hour. Average Cost, 7d.

266.—PIQUANT SAUCE FOR BOILED VEAL. (Fr.—Sauce Piquante.) (Economical.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of the liquor in which the meat has been boiled, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar, 1 dessertspoonful of Harvey or other similar sauce, 1 dessertspoonful of mushroom ketchup, 1 small carrot, 1 small onion, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, salt and pepper.

Method.—Cut the onion and carrot into small pieces, melt the butter in a small saucepan, add the flour and vegetables, and fry them until brown. Now put in the vinegar, stir and boil until considerably reduced, then add the stock, Harvey sauce, ketchup, and seasoning if necessary, boil, strain, and use.

Time.—25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 2½d. to 3d.

267.—PORT WINE SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce au Vin d'Oporto.) (For Venison, etc.)

Ingredients.—¼ of a pint of gravy from roast venison or mutton, a glass of port wine, 1 teaspoonful of red-currant jelly, a few drops of lemon-juice.

Method.—Put all the above into a small saucepan, bring to the boil, and serve.

Time.—7 or 8 minutes. Average Cost, 4d. without the gravy.

268.—PORT WINE SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce au Vin d'Oporto.) (Another Method.)

Ingredients.—¼ of a pint of Espagnole sauce, 1 glass of port wine, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1 teaspoonful of red currant jelly.

Method.—Mix all the ingredients together in a saucepan, bring to the boil, and serve.

Time.—7 or 8 minutes. Average Cost, 8d.

269.—REFORM SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Réforme.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of Pepper sauce, No. 264, 1 glass of port wine 1 tablespoonful of red currant jelly, cayenne pepper to taste.

Method.—Make the sauce as directed, then add to it the rest of the ingredients, simmer for 10 minutes, strain, and serve.

Time.—About 1 hour altogether. Average Cost, 1s. 6d.

270.—RÉGENCE SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Régence.)

Ingredients.—2 small shallots, ½ an oz. of butter, 1 gill of fish stock (prepared with the fish bones and some vegetables to flavour), ½ a gill of Marsala wine, 1½ gills of Espagnole sauce, parsley, 1, bay-leaf, 1 sprig of thyme, 1 teaspoonful of horseradish mustard, 1 tablespoonful of meat glaze, 1 dessertspoonful of truffle trimmings, seasoning.

Method.—Peel the shallots and chop finely, fry them a golden-brown in the butter, add the fish stock and the wine, cover, and let these reduce to half the original quantity. Now add a few sprigs of parsley, the bay-leaf, thyme, and the Espagnole sauce, let it simmer gently for 20 minutes, then strain, and pass the sauce through a tammy-cloth. When required for table, stir in the horseradish mustard and the meat glaze—the latter should be incorporated in little bits. Season to taste, stir in the truffles, finely chopped, re-heat slowly, and use as directed.

Time.—30-40 minutes. Average Cost, 1s. 6d.

271.—REMOULADE SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Remoulade.)

See recipe for Salad Dressing, page 230.

272.—ROBERT SAUCE (Brown Onion). (Fr.—Sauce Robert.) (For Goose, Pork, Steak, Cutlets.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of Espagnole sauce, ½ a glass of white wine, ½ an oz. of butter, ½ a small onion, ½ a teaspoonful of castor sugar, 1 saltspoonful of dry mustard.

Method.—Mince the onion and fry it brown in the butter, add the mustard and wine, reduce a little. Add the sauce, cook for 10 minutes, season, and strain.

Time.—25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, about 10d.

273.—ROBERT SAUCE (for Pork Cutlets.) (Fr.—Sauce Robert.) (Another Method.)

Ingredients.—¾ of a pint of brown stock, 1 oz. of butter, ¾ of an oz. of flour, 1 dessertspoonful of vinegar, 1 teaspoonful of made mustard, 2 medium-sized onions, salt and pepper.

Method.—Chop the onions coarsely and fry them brown in the butter. Sprinkle in the flour, stir and cook until brown, then add the stock, vinegar, pepper and salt, bring to the boil and simmer gently for ½ an hour. Add the mustard a few minutes before serving. Strain, and use as required.

Time.—40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, about 7d.

274.—SAGE AND ONION SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce aux Sauge). (For Roast Pork.)

Ingredients.—¾ of a pint of brown stock, 2 medium-sized onions, 2 ozs. of freshly-made breadcrumbs, 1½ ozs. of butter or sweet dripping, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped sage, salt and pepper.

Method.—Cut the onions into rather small dice. Melt the butter or fat, put in the onions, and fry slowly until brown. Add the stock and boil up, then put the sage, breadcrumbs, salt and pepper, simmer for 10 minutes, and serve.

Time.—About 40 minutes. Average Cost, 7d.

Sage (Fr. sauge).—This "sweet herb" is a native of the countries bordering upon the Mediterranean, but has long been cultivated in English gardens. There are several varieties of sage, the green, the red, the small-leaved, and the broad-leaved balsamic. Its leaves and tender tops are used for stuffings and sauces, the red kind being the best for that purpose, and next to it the green variety. An infusion, prepared from the dried leaves and shoots of the sage, called sage tea, is used as an astringent and tonic medicine.

275.—SALMIS SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Salmis.)

Ingredients.—1 teaspoonful red currant jelly, ½ a pint of Espagnole sauce, 1 gill of game stock (made from the carcass of cooked game) 2 shallots chopped finely, 1 bay-leaf, 1 sprig of thyme, a few mushroom trimmings, 1 glass of port, 1 tablespoonful of sweet oil.

Method.—Put the oil in a stewpan, and fry the shallots a golden colour, add the bay-leaf, thyme, mushroom trimmings and port wine, cover the stewpan and cook for 5 minutes. Add the stock and sauce, stir well, simmer for 10 minutes, and remove the scum. Pass the sauce through a tammy-cloth, season, add red currant jelly, warm up, and serve.

Time.—From 35 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, 1s. 2d.

276.—SHALLOT SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Echalote.)

Ingredients.—⅓ of a pint of good brown gravy, No. 6, ½ an oz. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, ½ a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, 6 shallots finely-chopped.

Method.—Melt the butter, fry the shallots until lightly browned, and add the HOT gravy and the rest of the ingredients. Simmer gently for 10 minutes, and serve.

Time.—About 20 minutes. Average Cost, 2½d., in addition to the stock.

277.—SHARP SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Piquante.)

Ingredients.—4 shallots chopped finely, 3 gherkins chopped, 1 tablespoonful of chopped capers, 1 gill of vinegar, 1 bay-leaf, 1 sprig of thyme, ¾ of a pint of Espagnole sauce.

Method.—Put the shallots in a stewpan with the vinegar, bay-leaf, and thyme, cover, and reduce to half quantity. Strain into another stewpan, add the gherkins, capers, and sauce, boil for a few minutes.

Time.—From 20 to 25 minutes. Average Cost, 1s. 2d.

278.—SORREL SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce l'Oseille.) (For Boiled or Braised Fowls.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of good gravy, No. 6, a small handful of sorrel.

Method.—Wash and pick the sorrel, cover it with cold water, bring to the boil, cook for a few minutes, and drain well. Have the gravy ready in a saucepan. Chop the sorrel finely, add it to the gravy, and serve.

Time.—15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, 3d.

Sorrel (Fr. surelle).—The Romans cultivated the sorrel, which is a native of Italy and France, and ate its acrid leaves, stewed with mustard, and seasoned with oil and vinegar. In French cookery, sorrel is largely used, both as a salad and for culinary purposes. Although the leaves are both wholesome and pleasant to the taste, sorrel finds little favour with English cooks. There are two species of this plant, but in England they are scarcely grown as a vegetable. In most parts of Britain sorrel wild in the grass meadows. Tartaric acid, tannic acid, and binoxalate of potash are constituents of sorrel, and impart to it its characteristic acid taste.

279.—SPANISH SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Espangole.)

See Espagnole Sauce.

280.—TEXAS SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce a la Texas.)

Ingredients.—¾ of a pint of curry sauce, No. 241, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, ½ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, a good pinch of saffron, 1 oz. of butter.

Method.—Make the curry sauce as directed, and just before serving add the lemon-juice, parsley, saffron, and lastly the butter, which should be whisked in gradually in small pieces, to prevent it oiling.

Time.—45 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, 2d., in addition to the curry sauce.

281.—TOMATO SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Tomate.)

Ingredients.—1 lb. of tomatoes, 2 shallots, 1 bay-leaf, 1 sprig of thyme 10 peppercorns, 1 oz. of butter, 2 ozs. of lean ham, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar.

Method.—Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the ham cut small, and shallots chopped. Cook over the fire, but do not brown. Now add the seasoning, herbs, peppercorns, and tomatoes sliced, stir altogether, and boil for about 20 minutes, or until well reduced. Pass the sauce through a tammy-cloth, warm up, season, and serve.

Time.—From 30 to 35 minutes. Average Cost, 7d. to 8d.

The Tomato, or Love Apple (Fr. Tomate), is a native of South America, but was introduced into Europe in the sixteenth century. It is successfully cultivated in warm or temperate climates, and thrives in southern Europe; it is extensively grown in England. The fruit is eaten raw, or cooked in various ways, and is also used as an ingredient in salads, and as a sauce. In its green state it is made into pickle. Reference is made to the tomato as the "Love apple," by the late Charles Dickens, in the celebrated trial of Bardell v. Pickwick, in his Pickwick Papers.

282.—TOMATO SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Tomate.) (Another Method.)

Ingredients.—2 lb. of tomatoes, ¼ of a pint of good stock, 1 small onion sliced, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 1 oz. of butter, ½ an oz. of flour, sugar, salt and pepper.

Method.—Halve the tomatoes, squeeze out the juice, strain and put it aside. Put the prepared tomatoes into a stewpan, add the stock, onion, bouquet-garni, and a little salt and pepper, simmer very gently for 1 hour, then pass through a fine sieve. Melt the butter stir in the flour, cook for 2 or 3 minutes, then add the tomato-pulp and as much of the strained tomato-juice as may be necessary to obtain the desired consistency. Add a pinch of sugar, season to taste make thoroughly hot, and serve.

Time.—About 1¼ hours. Average Cost, 8d. to 10d., in addition to the stock.

283.—TRUFFLE SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce aux Truffes.)

Ingredients.—3 large truffles, 1 gill of brown sauce, 1 gill of tomato sauce, 1 teaspoonful of anchovy essence, ½ an oz. of fresh butter, about 1 glass of sherry.

Method.—Chop the truffles finely, put them in a small stewpan, cover with sherry, add 1 gill of brown sauce and 1 gill of tomato sauce, boil for a few minutes, finish with a teaspoonful of anchovy essence and the fresh butter.

Time.—From 15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, 1s. to 1s. 2d.

284.—TURTLE SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Tortue.)

Ingredients.—1½ pints of Espagnole sauce, No. 244, made from turtle stock, 1 glass of sherry, 1 teaspoonful of anchovy essence, 1 dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, ½ a teaspoonful of chopped lemon rind, 2 shallots finely chopped. Cayenne pepper to taste.

Method.—Put all the ingredients into a saucepan, and simmer until considerably reduced, then strain, and serve.

Time.—About ½ an hour. Average Cost, 6d. to 8d., without the turtle stock broth.

285.—VENISON SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Chevreuil.)

Ingredients.—1 small onion, 1 oz. of lean ham, 1 oz. of butter, ½ a gill of vinegar, 12 crushed peppercorns, 1 bay-leaf, ½ a small minced carrot, a little thyme and chopped parsley, ½ a pint of Espagnole sauce, 1 glass of port wine, 1 dessertspoonful of red currant jelly.

Method.—Mince the onion and the ham, fry them in butter, then add the vinegar, peppercorns, bay-leaf, carrot, and herbs. Cover the saucepan and simmer for 10 minutes. Then add the sauce, wine, and jelly. Cook for 10 minutes, skim and strain. Re-heat, season, and serve.

Time.—From 30 to 35 minutes. Average Cost, 1s. 3d.

286.—VENISON SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Chevreuil.) (Another Method.)

Ingredients.—½ pint brown sauce No. 164, 1 dessertspoonful of red currant jelly, ½ a glass of port wine, the juice of ½ a lemon, salt, pepper, 1 dessertspoonful of meat glaze or Lemco.

Method.—Put all the ingredients except the glaze into a pan and simmer till the jelly is dissolved. Add the glaze, boil again, skim, strain and serve.

Time.—20 minutes. Average Cost, 10d.

287.—WALNUT SAUCE.

Ingredients.—¾ of a pint of stock, 1½ ozs. of butter, 1½ ozs. of flour, 2 small onions sliced, 4 firm pickled walnuts, 1 tablespoonful of walnut vinegar, salt and pepper.

Method.—Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the onion until lightly browned, then sprinkle in the flour. Fry slowly until the flour acquires a nut-brown colour, then add the stock, and simmer gently for 20 minutes. Strain and return to the stewpan, season to taste, add the vinegar and the walnuts, previously cut into dice. Serve with braised mutton or any dish requiring a sharp sauce.

Time.—About 40 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. or 7d.

Fish Sauces.

288.—ANCHOVY SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce d'Anchois.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of Béchamel sauce, No. 178, 1 teaspoonful of anchovy essence.

Method.—Make the sauce hot in a small stewpan, add the anchovy essence, and use as required.

Time.—From 5 to 10 minutes. Average Cost, about 5d.

289.—ANCHOVY SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce d'Anchois.) (Inexpensive.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of melted butter, No. 202, 1 teaspoonful of anchovy essence.

Method.—Make the melted butter, add to it the anchovy essence, and use as required.

Time.—To make the melted butter, 15 minutes. Average Cost, 1½d per ½ pint.

290.—ANCHOVY SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce d'Anchois.) (Another Method.)

Ingredients.—¼ of a pint of milk, ¼ of a pint of fish stock or water, 1 oz. of butter, ¾ of an oz. of flour, 1 teaspoonful of anchovy essence.

Method.—Melt the butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour, and cook for 5 or 6 minutes. Add the milk and stock, stir until it boils, simmer for 2 or 3 minutes, then add the anchovy essence, and use as required.

Time.—15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, 2d.

291.—AURORA SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce à l'Aurore.) (For Soles, Trout, etc.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of Béchamel sauce, No. 178, 1 tablespoonful of cream, 1 dessertspoonful of tarragon vinegar, or lemon-juice, 1 oz. of butter, the spawn of a lobster, salt, cayenne.

Method.—Pound the lobster spawn and butter well together, and rub through a fine hair sieve. Make the Béchamel hot in a saucepan, put in the spawn, cream, vinegar and seasoning, and stir at the side of the fire until quite hot, but without boiling.

Time.—30 to 35 minutes. Average Cost. 5d. to 6d., without the lobster spawn.

292.—CARDINAL SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Cardinal.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of white sauce, No. 222, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, ½ an oz. of lobster coral finely-chopped, nutmeg, salt and pepper.

Method.—Make the white sauce as directed, add the lobster coral and nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste. Simmer gently for 15 minutes, then pass through a fine strainer or tammy cloth. Re-heat, add the cream and lemon-juice, and use as required.

Time. About ½ an hour. Average Cost, 5d. to 6d., exclusive of the coral.

293.—COCKLE SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce aux Moules.)

Ingredients.—¼ of a pint of cooked cockles, 1 pint of melted butter, No. 228, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt and pepper.

Method.—Prepare and cook the cockles in the usual way, and remove them from the shells. Have the melted butter ready boiling, add the cockles and lemon-juice, season to taste, and serve as an accompaniment to cod or other fish.

Time.—From 20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 5d.

294.—CODFISH, SAUCE.

Ingredients.—¼ of a pint of brown sauce, No. 234, ¼ of a pint of tomato sauce, No. 281, 1 glass of Marsala, 2 tablespoonfuls of stock, 1 oz. of ham shredded, ¾ of an oz. of butter, 1 onion chopped, 4 button mushrooms chopped, 1 clove, 1 bay-leaf, salt and pepper.

Method.—Melt the butter, fry the onion until lightly browned, then add the Marsala, stock, ham, mushrooms, clove and bay-leaf. Cover closely, cook gently until reduced to one-half, then add the brown and tomato sauces. Continue to cook slowly for 10 minutes longer, then pass the whole through a fine sieve or tammy cloth. Re-heat, season to taste, and use as required.

Time.—From 40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, 1s.

295.—CRAB SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce de Crabe.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of white sauce, No. 222, 1 medium-sized crab, 1 teaspoonful of anchovy essence, a few drops of lemon-juice, cayenne.

Method.—The fish stock required for the white sauce may be obtained by simmering the crab shell (previously made clean and broken into small pieces) in milk and water. Cut the crab in small pieces, add it with the anchovy essence, lemon-juice, and cayenne to the hot sauce, draw the saucepan aside for a few minutes, then serve.

Time.—Altogether about 40 minutes. Average Cost, 9d. to 1s.

296.—EEL SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Anguille.)

Ingredients.—¾ of a pint of stock, 1 lb. of eels, 2 ozs. of lean ham, 1 onion sliced, a few thin slices of carrot, 1 bay-leaf, 6 peppercorns, salt and pepper.

Method.—Wash the eel and cut it into short lengths. Cut the ham into small pieces. Place both eel and ham in a stewpan, add the stock, onion, carrot, bay-leaf, and peppercorns, and season to taste. Simmer gently for about ½ an hour, then strain, and use as required.

Time.—From 35 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, 1s. 3d.

297.—EGG SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce aux Oeufs.) (For Boiled Fish and Boiled Fowl.)

Ingredients.—¾ of a pint of melted butter, No. 202, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt and pepper, 2 hard-boiled eggs.

Method.—Boil the eggs until quite hard (15 minutes), and put them into cold water for ½ an hour. Remove the shells, cut the whites in small dice, and rub the yolks through a wire sieve. Have the melted butler boiling, stir in the whites of egg, add salt, pepper, and lemon-juice, and use as required. The sauce is usually poured over the fish, and the sieved yolks of egg sprinkled on the top as a garnish. When the sauce is served separately, the yolks should be added to it with the whites.

Time.—1 hour Average Cost, 5d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 lb. of fish.

298.—EGG SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce aux Oeufs.) (Another Method.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of milk, 1 oz. of butter, ¾ of an oz. of flour, 1 raw egg, 1 hard-boiled egg, salt and pepper.

Method.—Melt the butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour, and cook for 3 or 4 minutes, then add the milk and stir until it boils. Cut the hard boiled egg into dice (or rub the yolk through a wire sieve if needed to decorate the fish), add it, together with any necessary seasoning, to the sauce. Beat the yolk of the raw egg slightly, add to it gradually 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of the sauce, and when thoroughly mixed stir into the remainder of the sauce and cook very gently for 2 or 3 minutes. It must not boil, or it will curdle.

Time.—25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 4d.

299.—FENNEL SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Fenouil.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of melted butter, No. 202, 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped fennel.

Method.—Make the melted butter as directed. Wash the fennel well, pick it from the stalks, put it into boiling water, and boil until tender. Drain well, chop finely, and add it to the boiling sauce. Use as required.

Time.—Altogether 35 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, 3d. to 4d. for this quantity.

Fennel (Fr. fenouil).—This fragrant and elegant plant is found growing wild, chiefly on chalky soils. It is very generally cultivated in gardens. The leaves are finely divided and the flowers, which are small, are of a yellow colour. It grows to the height of about 3 feet; a larger variety, Giant Fennel, sometimes attains the height of 15 feet. Fennel leaves are served with fish either whole or as a sauce. The seeds are used in medicine as a carminative, and oil of fennel is obtained from Italian fennel, which is cultivated in the south of Europe.

300.—GENEVA SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Genévoise.)

Ingredients.—¾ of a pint of fish stock, 1 glass of sherry or Madeira wine, 2 ozs. of butter, 1½ ozs. of flour, 1 onion sliced, 2 mushrooms sliced, ½ a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, ½ a teaspoonful of anchovy-essence, salt and pepper.

Method.—Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the onion until slightly browned, add the mushrooms, stir in the flour, and cook the preparation until it acquires a nut-brown colour. Now add the stock, wine, lemon-juice, anchovy-essence, salt and pepper to taste. Simmer gently for about 20 minutes, pass through a fine strainer or tammy cloth, re-heat, and use as required.

Time.—From 40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, 9d.

301.—GÉNOISE SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Génoise.) (For Fish.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of Espagnole sauce, 1 pint of fish stock, 1 gill of claret, ½ a small onion, 1 clove of garlic, 2 cloves, 2 shallots, 1 bay-leaf, a few sprigs of parsley, 1 sprig of thyme, 2 ozs. of anchovy butter, pepper, salt, one pinch of castor sugar.

Method.—Put some fish bones in a stewpan, together with the fish stock or water, the claret, sliced onion, herbs, etc., cover, and reduce well. Add the Espagnole sauce, boil up, and strain through a fine sieve or tammy-cloth. Return the sauce to a stewpan, season with a little pepper and a pinch of sugar, and whisk in the anchovy butter. Keep hot, but do not let the sauce boil again. Serve separately with boiled fish, or pour over braised fish.

Time.—About 40 minutes. Average Cost, 1s. 4d.

302.—GÉNOISE SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Génoise.) (Another Method.)

Ingredients.—1 sliced onion, 1 shallot, ½ a clove of garlic, 1 oz. of butter, bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 1 teaspoonful anchovy essence, 1 glass of red burgundy, 1 pint of Espagnole sauce, a pinch of mignonette pepper.

Method.—Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the onion, shallot, garlic, and bouquet, add the wine and simmer until the onion is cooked. Then add the sauce, simmer for 10 minutes, and pass through a fine strainer. Re-heat, add the anchovy essence and the pepper.

Time.—From 30 to 35 minutes. Average Cost, 1s. 6d. to 1s. 9d.

303.—GRATIN SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Gratin.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of Espagnole sauce, 1 glass of sherry, ½ an oz. of glaze, 1 tablespoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 5 or 6 button mushrooms (fresh if possible), 2 shallots or 1 very small onion finely-chopped, 1 teaspoonful of anchovy essence.

Method.—Cut the mushrooms into small pieces, put them into a saucepan with the sherry, glaze, parsley, and shallots, and simmer until considerably reduced. Add the sauce and anchovy essence, cook for 5 minutes, and serve.

Time.—From 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 1s. 4d. to 1s. 6d.

304.—HOLLANDAISE SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Hollandaise.) (For Fish and certain Vegetables.)

Ingredients.—1 gill of white sauce. ¼ of a gill of good white stock, 1 dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, 2 yolks of eggs, 1 oz. of butter, salt and pepper.

Method.—Make the white sauce hot, add the stock and yolks of eggs well mixed together, and whisk by the side of the fire until the sauce thickens, but it must not be allowed to boil. Add the lemon-juice, and the butter bit by bit, season to taste, and pass through a fine strainer or tammy-cloth. Re-heat, and use as required.

Time.—15 minutes. Average Cost, 7d.

305.—MATELOTE SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Matelote.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of Espagnole sauce, No. 244, ⅛ of a pint of fish stock, No. 5, ½ a glass of Burgundy, ¾ of an oz. of butter, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom liquor, a few drops of lemon-juice, ½ a small carrot, 1 small onion, salt and pepper.

Method.—Cut the carrot and onion into very small pieces. Melt the butter in a saucepan, put in the vegetables and fry until brown. Add the mushroom liquor, fish stock and wine, simmer until reduced one-half, then add the Espagnole. Stir until it boils, then strain or tammy. Re-heat, add the lemon-juice, salt and pepper, and use as required.

Time.—From 30 to 35 minutes. Average Cost, About 1s. 3d.

Note.—A simple form of this sauce was originally made by the French sailor (matelot) as a relish to the fish he caught and ate. In some cases, cider and perry were substituted for the wine. The Norman matelots were very celebrated.

306.—MOUSSELINE SAUCE FOR FISH. (Fr.—Sauce Mousseline pour Poissons.)

Ingredients.—A good handful of spinach or watercress, 1 tablespoonful of cream, 1 dessertspoonful of tarragon vinegar, the yolks of 2 eggs, salt and pepper.

Method.—Pick and wash the spinach, pound it well in a mortar, and rub through a fine sieve. Put this purée, cream, vinegar, salt, pepper and yolks of eggs into a saucepan, whisk briskly over the fire until it becomes a light froth, then serve.

Time.—From 25 to 35 minutes. Average Cost, about 5d.

307.—MOUSSELINE SAUCE (Cold). (Fr.—Sauce Mousseline Froide.) (For Fish.)

Ingredients.—A good handful of spinach, ⅛ of a pint of cream, ⅛ of a pint of mayonnaise sauce, No. 201.

Method.—Prepare the purée of spinach as in the preceding recipe. Whip the cream stiffly, and add to it LIGHTLY the mayonnaise sauce and the purée. Serve with salmon or other fish.

Time.—About ½ an hour. Average Cost, 5d.

308.—MUSTARD SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Moutarde.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of water, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, 2 ozs. of butter, 1½ ozs. of flour, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1 teaspoonful of French mustard, 1 teaspoonful of English mustard.

Method.—Melt the butter in a small stewpan, stir in the flour, and cook for a few minutes, then add the water, and stir until it boils. The mustard must be very thick, otherwise more than 2 teaspoonfuls will be required. Strain the lemon-juice on to the mustard, mix well together, then pour it into the sauce, and stir until it boils. Add the cream, and use as required.

Time.—About 20 minutes. Average Cost, about 5d.

309.—MUSTARD SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Moutarde.) (For Fresh Herrings.)

Ingredients.—1 teaspoonful of mustard, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1 oz. of butter, 1 gill of boiling water, 1 teaspoonful of vinegar.

Method.—Mix the flour and mustard, knead them well with the butter, stir in the boiling water, turn into a stewpan, and boil for 5 minutes. Add the vinegar, and serve.

Time, 10 minutes. Average Cost, 2d.

310.—OYSTER SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce aux Huîtres.)

Ingredients.—12 sauce oysters, 1 oz. of butter, a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, the yolk of 1 egg, ¾ of a pint of Béchamel sauce.

Method.—Open the oysters, remove the beards, and put them with their liquor and the butter in a small saucepan. Cover with a lid, and cook for 4 minutes (they must not be allowed to boil), then drain well, and halve or quarter them. Reduce the liquor to half its original quantity, then strain, and return to the saucepan. Add the Béchamel sauce, when hot, bind with the yolk of egg, then put in the oysters and lemon-juice. Stir until the oysters are quite hot, season with a pinch of salt and pepper if necessary, and serve in a hot sauce boat.

Time.—From 20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 1s. 2d., in addition to the Béchamel sauce.

311.—PARSLEY SAUCE FOR FISH. (Fr.—Sauce de Persil.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of fish stock, No. 5, or water, 1 oz. of butter, ¾ of a oz. of flour, 1 tablespoonful of finely-chopped parsley, salt and pepper.

Method.—Melt the butter in a saucepan, stir in the flour, cook for 2 or 3 minutes, then add the stock and stir until it boils. Simmer for a few minutes, then season to taste, add the parsley, and serve. If the parsley is allowed to boil in the sauce it will lose some of its green colour.

Time.—20 to 25 minutes. Average Cost. 1½d. per ½ pint.

312.—ROE SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Laitence.)

Ingredients.—½ a lb. of cod's roe (or any other kind preferred), 1 teaspoonful of made mustard, 1 teaspoonful of anchovy sauce, 1 dessertspoonful of vinegar, ½ a pint of melted butter, salt and pepper.

Method.—Cook the roe in a little water; when cool, remove any skin there may be, and bruise the roe with the back of a wooden spoon. Add the mustard, anchovy essence and vinegar, stir the whole into the prepared melted butter, and season to taste. Simmer gently for 15 minutes, then strain and serve.

Time.—About ½ an hour. Average Cost, 4d. to 5d.

313.—SARDINE SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce aux Sardines.)

Ingredients.—1 pint of good stock, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 6 large sardines, the thin rind of 1 lemon, 1 shallot, 1 bay-leaf, nutmeg, salt and pepper.

Method.—Remove and preserve the bones, chop the sardines rather coarsely. Melt the butter, add the flour, stir and cook gently for a few minutes, then add the stock. Bring to the boil, add the fish bones, lemon-rind, shallot, bay-leaf, a good pinch of nutmeg, and a seasoning of salt and pepper. Simmer gently for 15 minutes, then strain over the chopped sardines, and serve as an accompaniment to fish.

Time.—About ½ an hour. Average Cost, 1s.

314.—SHRIMP SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce aux Crevettes.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of white sauce, ¼ of a pint of picked shrimps, 1 teaspoonful of anchovy essence, a few drops of lemon-juice, cayenne.

Method.—The fish stock required for the white sauce may be obtained by simmering the shrimp shells in milk and water. Add the shrimps, anchovy essence, lemon-juice and cayenne to the hot sauce. Cover the saucepan, and let it stand for a few minutes where the contents cannot boil, then serve.

Time.—Altogether about 40 minutes. Average Cost 8d.

315.—WHITE WINE SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce au Vin Blanc.) (For Fish, etc.)

Ingredients.—¼ pint fish stock, ½ pint of white stock, ½ gill of white wine (chablis), ¾ of an oz. of flour, 2 ozs. of butter, the yolks of 2 eggs, ½ a lemon, salt and white pepper.

Method.—If the sauce is required for dressed fish the fish should be cooked in a mirepoix, or foundation preparation, of sliced onion, parsley, and savoury herbs, as is usual, with the appropriate quantity of moisture—the liquor is strained and used in the sauce. Melt 1 oz.

of butter, stir in the flour and cook a little, then dilute with fish liquor and wine, and cook for 15 minutes. Add, continuously stirring, the remainder of the butter bit by bit, also the yolks of eggs, one at a time. Season with a little salt and a pinch of mignonette or white pepper, and add a few drops of lemon-juice, strain through a tammy-cloth or napkin, and use as sauce for dressed fish, etc.

Mostly served with soles, salmon, trout, and whiting.

Time.—About ½ an hour. Average Cost, 1s.

Fruit Sauces and Sweet Sauces.

316.—APPLE SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce aux Pommes.)

Ingredients.—1 lb. of apples, 1½ ozs. of sugar (or to taste), 1 oz. of butter, a little water if NECESSARY.

Method.—Peel, core and slice the apples, put them into a saucepan with the sugar, butter, and a very little water, and cook them until tender. Add more sugar if necessary, before serving.

Time.—30 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, 4d. to 5d.

317.—APRICOT SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce à l'Abricot.)

Ingredients.—3 ozs. of apricot marmalade or jam, 1 pint of water, ½ glass of sherry, 1 oz. of sugar, 1 teaspoonful of arrowroot.

Method.—Put the water, sugar, and jam into a saucepan, and boil up. Mix the sherry and arrowroot together, pour the mixture into the saucepan, stir until it thickens, and serve.

Time.—15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, 4d. to 5d. for this quantity.

318.—ARROWROOT SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Maranta.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of boiling water, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1 heaping dessertspoonful of arrowroot, 1 good tablespoonful of castor sugar, or to taste, nutmeg or cinnamon to flavour.

Method.—Blend the arrowroot smoothly with a little cold water, pour over it the boiling water, stirring meanwhile. Turn into a saucepan, add lemon-juice, sugar, and a good pinch of nutmeg or cinnamon, and simmer for 3 or 4 minutes. This sauce may be served with a variety of puddings, and the flavour varied by the addition of wine, fruit syrup, etc.

Time.—About 8 minutes. Average Cost, 2d.

Arrowroot (Fr. Mordamius) is obtained from the rootstocks of several species of plants of the genus Maranta, principally from the Maranta arundinacea. Brazilian arrowroot, or tapioca meal, and Chinese arrowroot from other rhizomes; Oswego arrowroot from Indian corn; English arrowroot from the potato; and Portland arrowroot, or sago, from the roots of Arum maculatum. That obtained from the West Indies is esteemed the best. Arrowroot is prepared by well washing the roots when dug up, and beating them into a pulp, which afterwards, by means of water, is separated from the fibrous part. After being passed through a sieve and again washed, the mass is allowed to settle, the sediment is dried in the sun, and it then becomes arrowroot. Potato starch is sometimes employed as an adulterant, but may be detected by the fact that genuine arrowroot when formed into a jelly will retain its firm consistency, while the adulterated article will become thin and resemble milk in the course of twelve hours.

319.—ARROWROOT SAUCE, CLEAR.

Ingredients.—½ a pint of cider (equal quantities of wine and water, or any kind of fruit-juice may be substituted), 1 level dessertspoonful of arrowroot, sugar to taste, cinnamon, lemon-rind, or other flavouring ingredient.

Method.—Simmer the flavouring ingredient in the cider for 10 minutes. Mix the arrowroot smoothly with a little cold water, strain the cider into it, stirring meanwhile, and replace in the saucepan. Add sugar to taste, simmer gently for 4 or 5 minutes, then serve.

Time.—About 15 minutes. Average Cost, 5d. to 6d., when cider is used.

320.—BRANDY SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce au Cognac.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of water, ½ a wineglass of brandy, 4 ozs. of loaf sugar, ½ an oz. of cornflour, nutmeg if liked.

Method.—Mix the cornflour smoothly with a little of the water, and put the rest into a copper saucepan with the sugar. Boil and reduce to a thin syrup, skimming occasionally, add the cornflour to the syrup, stir until it boils, then add the brandy, and serve.

Time.—About ½ an hour. Average Cost, from 3½d. to 4d.

321.—BRANDY SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce au Cognac.)

Ingredients.—¼ of a pint of milk, 1 teaspoonful of arrowroot or corn-flour, 1 teaspoonful of castor sugar, the yolk of 1 egg, a wineglassful of brandy.

Method.—Mix the arrowroot and milk smoothly together, pour into a small saucepan, and stir until it boils, add the sugar, and draw aside to cool slightly. Mix the brandy and egg together, pour the mixture into the sauce, stir until it thickens, and serve.

Time.—About 15 minutes. Average Cost, 5d. to 6d. for this quantity.

322.—CARAMEL SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce au Caramel.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of syrup, 1 oz. of loaf sugar, 1 dessertspoonful of arrowroot, vanilla-essence, cream.

Method.—Brown the sugar in a copper saucepan, add the syrup, and boil gently for 10 minutes. Blend the arrowroot smoothly with a little cold cream, stir it into the sauce, simmer for 3 or 4 minutes longer, then add vanilla-essence to taste. Strain, and use as required.

Time.—25 minutes. Average Cost, 4d.

323.—CHANTILLY APPLE SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Chantilly.)

Ingredients.—1 lb. of cooking apples, 1½ ozs. of castor sugar, 1 oz. of butter, ¼ of a pint of cream.

Method.—Peel, core and slice the apples, and place them in a stewpan with 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of cold water. Add the butter and sugar, cook gently until quite tender, then pass the preparation through a fine sieve. Whip the cream stiffly, stir it into the apple purée, and use as required.

Time.—From 45 to 60 minutes. Average Cost, 8d.

324.—CHAUDEAU SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Chaudeau.)

Ingredients.—4 yolks of eggs, 1 wineglassful of sherry, 1 wineglassful of water, 1 tablespoonful of castor sugar.

Method.—Put all the ingredients into a saucepan, and whisk them by the side of the fire until thick and frothy. This sauce may be served with plum pudding.

Time. About 15 minutes. Average Cost, 7d.

325.—CHERRY SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce aux Cerises.)

Proceed the same as for venison sauce No. 286, adding 2 ozs. of glacé cherries cut in halves or quarters.

326.—CHOCOLATE SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce au Chocolat.)

Ingredients.—¾ of a pint of water, 1 tablespoonful of brandy, 1 teaspoonful of vanilla essence, 1 oz. of crême de riz or rice flour, 2 ozs. of castor sugar, 4 ozs. of grated chocolate.

Method.—Put the sugar, chocolate, and water into a saucepan, and stir until it boils. Mix the crême de riz smoothly with a little cold water, pour it into the saucepan and simmer for 5 minutes. Pass through a tammy-cloth or fine strainer, add the brandy and vanilla, and serve.

Time.—From 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, from 8d. to 9d. for this quantity.

327.—CHOCOLATE SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce au Chocolat.) (Economical.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of milk, 3 ozs. of grated chocolate, 1 oz. of sugar (or to taste), 1 teaspoonful of cornflour, 1 teaspoonful vanilla essence.

Method.—Dissolve the chocolate and sugar in the hot milk, and simmer for a few minutes. Mix the cornflour smoothly with a little milk or water, pour it into the saucepan, stir and cook for 3 minutes, add the vanilla essence, and serve.

Time.—About 15 minutes. Average Cost, 5d. to 9d.

328.—CITRON SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce aux Citron.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of boiling milk, 2 ozs. of castor sugar, ½ an oz. of cornflour, 2 yolks of eggs, the finely-chopped rind of ½ a lemon.

Method.—Blend the yolks of the eggs and the cornflour together, add the sugar and lemon-rind, and stir in the boiling milk. Whisk the preparation over the fire until it becomes creamy, then use as required.

Time.—From 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, 4d.

329.—COFFEE SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce au Café.)

Ingredients.—2 ozs. of raw coffee berries, 1 dessertspoonful of arrowroot or cornflour, 1 glass of brandy, sugar to taste, ½ a pint of boiling water.

Method.—Roast the coffee berries in a pan over a quick fire until well-browned, then pound them in a mortar. Pour the boiling water over the prepared coffee, let it stand for a few minutes, then strain it into a saucepan. Blend the cornflour smoothly with the brandy, stir it into the coffee, sweeten to taste, simmer gently for 5 minutes, then serve.

Time.—About ½ an hour. Average Cost, 6d.

330.—CORNFLOUR SAUCE.

Ingredients.—½ a pint of milk, 1 dessertspoonful (level) of castor sugar, 1 dessertspoonful (level) of cornflour, the rind of one lemon.

Method.—Remove the outer skin of the lemon in extremely thin shavings with a sharp knife, put them into the milk, and simmer for 5 minutes. Mix the cornflour smoothly with a little cold milk or water; strain the milk and add it to the cornflour, stirring all the time. Return to the saucepan, add the sugar, boil for 1 minute, and serve.

Time.—About 15 minutes. Average Cost, 2½d.

331.—CRANBERRY SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce aux Airelles Rouge.) (For Roast Turkey, Fowl, etc.)

Ingredients.—¼ of a pint of cold water, 1 pint of cranberries, 2 ozs. of castor sugar, 1 tablespoonful of red currant jelly, ½ a glass of port wine.

Method.—Wash the cranberries in cold water. Put them into a saucepan with the water, and simmer gently for ½ an hour, then add the sugar, wine, and red currant jelly. Boil again, and strain. Serve either hot or cold in a sauceboat or glass dish.

Time.—35 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, 7d. to 9d. for this quantity.

332.—CUSTARD SAUCE. (Fr.—Crème cuite.) (For Puddings or Tarts.)

Ingredients.—1 pint of milk, 2 eggs, 3 ozs. of castor sugar, 1 tablespoonful of brandy, bay-leaf if liked.

Method.—Boil the milk and bay-leaf, add the sugar, and cool slightly. Beat the eggs well, pour the milk on to them, and strain into a jug. Have ready a saucepan of boiling water, in which to place the jug, keep stirring until the mixture thickens, but do not allow it to boil, or it will curdle. Stir in the brandy, and serve.

Time.—25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to 7d.

333.—FROTHY SAUCE. (Fr.—Crème fouettée.)

Ingredients.—1 wineglassful of sherry, 1 tablespoonful of castor sugar, 1 egg, ¼ of a pint of boiling milk.

Method.—Dissolve the sugar in the boiling milk, and let it cool slightly. Beat the egg and sherry well together, add the hot milk and mix well. Stand the basin in a stewpan of boiling water, whisk briskly until the preparation thickens and becomes very frothy, and serve at once.

Time.—From 15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, 5d. to 6d.

334.—GERMAN CUSTARD SAUCE. (Fr.—Crème cuite à l'Allemande.)

Ingredients.—The yolks of 2 eggs, 1 glass of sherry, 2 or 3 lumps of sugar, the rind of ½ a lemon.

Method.—Rub the sugar on the lemon rind, then crush, and dissolve in the wine. Put all the ingredients into a small saucepan, and whisk BRISKLY over a slow fire until it forms a thick froth, but take care that it does not curdle. Serve at once.

Time.—From 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, 5d. to 6d.

335.—GINGER SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce au Gingembre.)

Ingredients.—1 teaspoonful of ground ginger, 4 tablespoonfuls a castor sugar, 2 or 3 strips of lemon-rind, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 2 tablespoonfuls of brandy or wine, ½ a pint of water.

Method.—Put the ginger, sugar, lemon-rind and water into a stew-pan, and simmer the ingredients gently for 15 minutes. Strain, return to the stewpan, add the brandy and lemon-juice, re-heat, and serve.

Time.—About 20 minutes. Average Cost, 5d. to 6d.

336.—GOOSEBERRY SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce aux Groseilles.)

Ingredients.—1 pint of green gooseberries, ¼ of a pint of milk, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 2 ozs. of sugar, nutmeg.

Method.—Barely cover the bottom of a saucepan with water, put in the gooseberries and cook slowly until tender, then rub through a fine sieve. Melt the butter in a saucepan, stir in the flour and cook well, add the milk and stir until it boils. Add the gooseberry purée and the sugar, make hot, and serve.

Time.—About 1 hour. Average Cost, 4½d. to 5d. for this quantity.

The Gooseberry (Fr. groseille), the common name for the well-known and wholesome fruit of ribes grossularia, a prickly shrub, indigenous to Britain, many parts of Europe and North America. The fruit varies in flavour, and is red, yellow, green, or whitish, and hairy or smooth on its surface. It is used largely for preserves, and for pies, puddings, etc. Malic and citric acid are found in the gooseberry, and from the berries a champagne is manufactured.

337.—GOOSEBERRY SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce aux Groseilles.) (Another Method.)

Ingredients.—¼ of a pint of water, 2 tablespoonfuls of green gooseberry jam, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, a little apple-green or spinach-green colouring.

Method.—Put the water, jam and lemon juice into a saucepan, and bring to the boil. Strain or pass through a tammy-cloth, re-heat, add a little colouring if desirable, and serve.

Time.—About 15 minutes. Average Cost, about 3d. for this quantity.

338.—JAM SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce au Confiture.)

Ingredients.—1 good tablespoonful of apricot, raspberry or other jam, ¼ of a pint of water, ½ a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, sugar to taste, carmine or cochineal, if necessary.

Method.—Put the water and jam into a small saucepan, add sugar to taste, and make thoroughly hot. Put in the lemon-juice, and a few drops of colouring, if necessary strain, and serve with sweet puddings, etc.

Time.—10 minutes. Average Cost, 2d. to 3d.

339.—LEMON BRANDY. (Fr.—Cognac au Citron.) (For Flavouring Custards.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of cooking brandy, ⅛ of a pint of water, 1 oz. of loaf sugar, 1 lemon.

Method.—Remove from the lemon the thinnest possible rind, as the least particle of the white pith would spoil the flavour. Put the brandy into a bottle, add the lemon-rind, and let it infuse for 24 hours, then strain and return to the bottle. Boil the sugar and water together, skim well, and when perfectly cold, add it to the brandy. A dessertspoonful of this will be found an excellent flavouring for boiled custards.

Time.—Altogether 26 or 27 hours. Average Cost, 1s. 3d. to 1s. 6d.

340.—LEMON SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Citron.) (For sweet Puddings.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of water, 1 glass of sherry, the juice and rind of 1 lemon, the yolks of 2 eggs, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 3 or 4 lumps of sugar.

Method.—Rub the sugar on to the lemon until all the outer rind is removed. Squeeze and strain the juice. Melt the butter, stir in the flour, and cook well without browning. Add the water, stir until it boils, then put in the sugar and lemon juice. Mix the yolks of eggs and sherry together, let the sauce cool slightly, then pour them in, stir until the sauce thickens, and serve.

Time.—From 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 5d. to 6d. for this quantity.

341.—LEMON SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Citron.) (Economical.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of boiling water, 1 lemon, 1 oz. of loaf sugar, 1 dessertspoonful of arrowroot.

Method.—Rub the sugar on the lemon until the outer rind is removed. Have the water boiling in a saucepan, add the sugar. Mix the arrowroot smoothly with a little cold water, pour it into the saucepan, and stir until it boils. Add the lemon-juice, and more sugar if necessary, and serve.

Time.—From 20 to 25 minutes. Average Cost, 2d. for this quantity.

342.—MARMALADE SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Marmelade.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of water, 1 glass of sherry, 2 tablespoonfuls of marmalade, 1 dessertspoonful of sugar (or to taste), 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice.

Method.—Put the water and marmalade into a saucepan, and stir until it boils. Add the sugar, lemon-juice and sherry, stir until the sugar is dissolved, and serve.

Time.—About 10 minutes. Average Cost, 5d. with the sherry.

343.—MARMALADE SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Marmelade.) (Economical.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of water, 1 tablespoonful of marmalade, 1 tablespoonful of sugar, 1 large teaspoonful of cornflour, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice.

Method.—Boil the water. Mix the cornflour smoothly with a little cold water, add it to the boiling water, stirring all the time. Put in the sugar and marmalade, simmer for 5 minutes, add the lemon-juice, and serve.

Time.—About 15 minutes. Average Cost, 2d.

344.—ORANGE SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce à l'Orange.)

Ingredients.—¾ of a pint of milk, 1 glass of curaçoa, 2 yolks of eggs, 2 ozs. of castor sugar, 1 small orange.

Method.—Boil the milk, add the sugar, the grated orange rind, and a tablespoonful of orange-juice, simmer for 5 minutes, then cool slightly. Beat the eggs with a little milk, pour them into the saucepan, stir until they begin to thicken, then add the curaçoa, and serve.

Time.—About ½ an hour. Average Cost, 7d. to 8d. for this quantity.

345.—ORANGE SYRUP. (Fr.—Sirop d'Orange.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of orange juice, the rind of 2 oranges, ¾ of a lb. of castor sugar.

Method.—Remove the rind in VERY thin strips; they should be almost transparent. Put the sugar, orange-juice, and rind into a saucepan, and simmer very gently for about ½ an hour. Remove the scum as it rises. Strain, and when cold, bottle for use. A little of this will be found an excellent flavouring for sweet sauces and custard.

Time.—From 40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to 8d.

346.—PLUM PUDDING SAUCE.

Ingredients.—1 glass of brandy, 1 glass of Madeira, 2 ozs. of butter, castor sugar.

Method.—Put the butter and 1 tablespoonful of castor sugar into a basin, and let it stand on or near the stove until the butter is melted. Stir in the brandy and Madeira, add more sugar if necessary, and when hot enough to use, either pour it over the pudding or serve separately in a tureen.

Time.—About ½ an hour. Average Cost, 10d.

347.—RASPBERRY SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Framboise.)

Ingredients.—¼ of a pint of water, 2 tablespoonfuls of raspberry jam, 1 glass of sherry, sugar to taste, a few drops of carmine or cochineal.

Method.—Put the water, jam, and 3 or 4 lumps of sugar into a saucepan, and simmer for 10 minutes, then add the sherry, and strain. Add sugar to taste, and a few drops of colouring if required, and serve.

Time.—About 15 minutes. Average Cost, from 5d. to 6d.

348.—RASPBERRY SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Framboise.) (Economical.)

Ingredients.—4 tablespoonfuls of water, 1 tablespoonful of jam, 1 tablespoonful of sugar, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice.

Method.—Boil the sugar and water together for 10 minutes, then add the jam and lemon-juice, and simmer a few minutes longer. A few drops of cochineal will brighten the colour, but are not essential.

Time.—About 20 minutes. Average Cost, 2d. to 2½d. for this quantity.

349.—RED-CURRANT SAUCE. (For puddings or for Venison, Hare, etc.)

Ingredients.—A small jar of red-currant jelly, 1 glass of port wine.

Method.—Put the wine and jelly into a small saucepan, let them slowly come to the boil, and serve when the jelly is dissolved.

Time.—5 minutes. Average Cost, 10d.

350.—SAGO SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Sagou.)

Ingredients.—1 tablespoonful of large sago, ⅓ a pint of boiling water, 1 glass of sherry, 1 dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, sugar to taste, a few thin strips of lemon-rind.

Method.—Add the sago and lemon-rind to the boiling water, and simmer gently until the sago is quite clear. Remove the lemon-rind, add the sherry and lemon-juice, sweeten to taste, make quite hot, and serve.

Time.—About 20 minutes. Average Cost, 4d. to 5d.

351.—SAUCE FOR PLUM PUDDING. (Soyers.)

Ingredients.—¼ of a pint of milk, 2 glasses of brandy, 1 tablespoonful of castor sugar, the yolks of 2 eggs, a very little grated lemon-rind.

Method.—Mix all the ingredients in a saucepan, set the pan on the fire, and whisk until the contents thicken and become frothy. Serve at once.

Time.—10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, 1s.

352.—SAUCE FOR SWEET PUDDINGS.

Ingredients.—¼ of a lb. of butter, ¼ of a lb. of pounded sugar, a wineglassful of brandy or rum.

Method.—Beat the butter to a cream, add the pounded sugar and brandy or rum; stir until the whole is thoroughly mixed, and serve. This sauce may either be poured round the pudding or served in a tureen, according to taste.

Time.—10 minutes. Average Cost.—8d.

353.—SAUCE FOR XMAS PUDDING.

Ingredients.—1 wineglass of rum, 4 yolks of eggs, 3 whites of eggs, 2 ozs. of castor sugar, ½ gill of water.

Method.—Put all the ingredients into a stewpan with half a gill of water, stand it in a larger pan of boiling water, and whisk briskly until the whole becomes thick and frothy. Serve at once.

Time.—About 15 minutes. Average Cost, 9d. or 10d. for this quantity.

354.—SAUCE FOR XMAS PUDDING. (Another Method.)

Ingredients.—4 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of sugar, 10 bitter almonds, 1 wineglassful of brandy.

Method.—Blanch and finely chop the almonds, then pound them well in a mortar. Beat the butter and sugar to a cream, add the almonds and brandy, continue to beat until the preparation has the appearance of clotted cream, then use as required.

Time.—From 20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 1s.

355.—SAUCE FOR XMAS PUDDING. (Another Method.)

Ingredients.—¼ of a pint of brandy or sherry, ¼ of a pint of boiling water, 1 tablespoonful of castor sugar, 1 level teaspoonful of arrowroot.

Method.—Blend the arrowroot smoothly with 2 tablespoonfuls of cold water, and pour over it the boiling water, stirring meanwhile. Put it into a stewpan with the brandy or wine and sugar, boil gently for 2 minutes, then serve.

Time.—Altogether, 10 minutes. Average Cost, 10d. to 1s.

356.—SOYER'S SAUCE FOR PLUM PUDDING.

Ingredients.—¼ of a pint of brandy, ¼ of a pint of milk, the yolks of 3 eggs, 1 dessertspoonful of castor sugar, a good pinch of very finely-grated lemon-rind.

Method.—Beat the yolks of eggs and milk well together, add the sugar and lemon-rind, and turn the whole into a small saucepan. Whisk until the mixture thickens, then add the brandy, continue to whisk until thoroughly hot, and serve separately or poured over the pudding.

Time.—About 10 minutes. Average Cost, 1s. 4d.

357.—SWEET MELTED BUTTER.

Ingredients.—½ a pint of milk or water, 1 oz. of butter, ½ an oz. of flour, ½ an oz. of sugar, a pinch of salt.

Method.—Melt the butter in a saucepan, stir in the flour, and cook well without browning. Add the milk or water and stir until it boils. Simmer for 2 or 3 minutes, then add the sugar, a good pinch of salt, and serve.

Time.—15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, 2½d., if made with milk.

358.—VANILLA SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce à la Vanille.)

Ingredients.—1 pint of milk, 1 egg, 1 oz. of sugar, ½ an oz. of cornflour, a few drops of vanilla essence.

Method.—Mix the cornflour smoothly with a little of the milk. Have ready a saucepan of boiling water, put the remainder of the milk into a jug, and stand the jug in the boiling water until the milk is quite hot. Add the sugar to the milk, also add the moistened cornflour and stir until it thickens. Beat the egg in a basin, and add 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of the sauce to it gradually. Pour into the jug and stir for a few minutes to cook the egg, then add the Vanilla essence, and serve.

Time.—40 to 60 minutes. Average Cost,—about 3½d.

359.—WINE SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce au Vin.)

Ingredients.—¼ of a pint of water, 1 glass of sherry, 1 tablespoonful of any kind of jam, 1 tablespoonful of castor sugar, lemon-juice to taste.

Method.—Put the sugar and water into a saucepan, and simmer for 10 minutes, then add the rest of the ingredients, bring to the boil, strain, and serve.

Time.—About 15 minutes. Average Cost, 4d. to 5d.

360.—WINE SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce au Vin.) (Economical.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of water, 1 large glass of sherry, 1 tablespoonful (level) of sugar, 1 teaspoonful of arrowroot.

Method.—Mix the arrowroot with a little of the water and boil the remainder, pour it on to the arrowroot, stirring all the time. Return to the saucepan, add the wine and sugar, boil up, and serve. The colour may be improved by the addition of a few drops of carmine or cochineal.

Time.—About 10 minutes. Average Cost, 3d. to 4d. for this quantity.

361.—WHITE SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS.

Ingredients.—¾ of a pint of milk, 1 dessertspoonful of cornflour, sugar to taste, 2 or 3 thin strips of lemon-rind, salt.

Method.—Blend the cornflour smoothly with a little cold milk, and put the remainder into a saucepan. Add the lemon-rind and a pinch of salt, simmer gently for 10 or 15 minutes, then strain over the blended cornflour, stirring meanwhile. Return to the saucepan, sweeten to taste, simmer gently for 5 minutes, and use as required. Any other flavouring may be substituted for the lemon-rind.

Time.—About 20 minutes. Average Cost, 2d. to 2½d.

362.—ZWETSCHEN SAUCE. (Prune Sauce.)

Ingredients.—½ a lb. of French prunes, 1 glass of port or sherry, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, the finely grated rind of ½ a lemon, ½ a teaspoonful of powdered cinnamon, sugar to taste.

Method.—Simmer the prunes until tender, in just enough water to cover them. When cool, crack, and preserve the kernels. Replace the fruit and kernels in the stewpan, add sugar to taste, cinnamon, lemon-rind and lemon-juice, cook gently for 10 minutes, and pass through a fine hair sieve. Re-heat, add the wine, and a little water if too thick, and use as required.

Time.—About 1 hour. Average Cost, 8d.

Cinnamon (Fr. cinnamome).—The cinnamon tree, Laurus cinnanomum, is a valuable and beautiful member of the Lauraceae, or laurel family. Its trunk is short and straight, with wide spreading branches, and a smooth, ash-like bark. It attains a height of 20 to 30 feet. The leaves are oval-shaped, 3 to 5 inches long; the flowers are in panicles, with six small petals of a pale-yellow colour. The fruit, which resembles an acorn, is soft and insipid, and of a deep-blue. It incloses a nut, the kernel of which germinates after falling. The leaves, fruit and root of the cinnamon all yield a volatile oil, oil of cinnamon. The bark of the tree the thinner bark is the most esteemed furnishes the well-known cinnamon used by cooks and confectioners. From the fragrant fatty substance of the fruit candles were formerly made exclusively for the King of Ceylon. Cinnamon is employed in medicine as a carminative and stomachic remedy.

Miscellaneous Sauces.

363.—BENTON SAUCE.

Ingredients.—4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 1 tablespoonful of scraped horseradish, 1 teaspoonful of made mustard, 1 teaspoonful of castor sugar.

Method.—Mix all the ingredients well together, and serve as an accompaniment to either hot or cold roast beef.

Time.—From 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, 2d.

364.—BLACK BUTTER SAUCE.

Ingredients.—1½ ozs. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley, ½ a teaspoonful of vinegar.

Method.—Cook the butter in a frying or sauté-pan until it acquires a nut-brown colour, then add the parsley and vinegar, cook for 1 minute longer, and serve.

Time.—5 minutes. Average Cost, 2d.

365.—BOAR'S HEAD SAUCE.

Ingredients.—½ a pint of dissolved red-currant jelly, ¼ of a pint of port wine, 4 oranges, 3 lumps of sugar, 1 finely-chopped shallot, 1 mustardspoonful of mixed mustard, pepper.

Method.—Shred the rind of 2 oranges into very fine strips, and rub the lumps of sugar over the rinds of the remaining two. Put the rind and sugar into the liquid jelly, add the wine, shallot, mustard, and a liberal seasoning of pepper, and use as required, or the sauce may be put into well-corked bottles and stored for use.

Time.—30 minutes. Average Cost, 1s. 10d.

366.—CAMBRIDGE SAUCE.

Ingredients.—2 tablespoonfuls of olive oil, 1 tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar, 4 hard-boiled yolks of eggs, 4 fillets of anchovies, 1 spoonful of capers, 1 dessertspoonful of French mustard, 1 teaspoonful of English mustard, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, a sprig of tarragon, a sprig of chervil, a pinch of cayenne.

Method.—Pound all the ingredients except the parsley well together, then pass through a hair sieve. If too stiff, add a little oil and vinegar gradually until the consistency resembles that of mayonnaise sauce. Stir in the parsley, and keep on ice until required. This is an excellent sauce to serve with cold meat.

Time.—About ½ an hour. Average Cost, 8d. to 9d.

367.—CARRACK SAUCE.

Ingredients.—1 quart of vinegar, 8 dessertspoonfuls of walnut pickle, 5 dessertspoonfuls of Indian soy, 5 dessertspoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, 3 dessertspoonfuls of mango pickle sliced, 2 cloves of garlic finely-chopped.

Method.—Put all the ingredients into a large bottle, let it stand for a month, shaking it 2 or 3 times daily. At the end of this time the sauce will be ready for use, but it will keep good for a length of time in well-corked bottles.

Time.—1 month. Average Cost, 1s. 6d.

368.—CAYENNE VINEGAR.

Ingredients.—1 pint of vinegar, ½ an oz. of cayenne pepper.

Method.—Mix the vinegar and cayenne together in a bottle, let it stand for 1 month, shaking the preparation daily. When ready, strain into well-corked bottles, and store for use.

Time.—1 month. Average Cost, about 6d.

369.—CHEESE SAUCE.

Ingredients.—¾ of a pint of milk, ¾ of an oz. of butter, ¾ of an oz. of flour, 1 tablespoonful of finely-grated cheese, salt and pepper.

Method.—Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, stir and cook the mixture for 5 minutes without browning, and add the milk. Season to taste, simmer gently for 10 minutes, then stir in the cheese, and use as required.

Time.—20 minutes. Average Cost, 5d. or 6d.

370.—DEMI-GLACE SAUCE.

Ingredients.—½ a pint of Espagnole sauce (see page 240), ¼ of a pint of good gravy, salt and pepper.

Method.—Make the Espagnole sauce as directed, boil until well reduced, then add the gravy, simmer for about 10 minutes, season to taste, and serve.

Time.—15 minutes. Average Cost, 8d.

371.—EPICUREAN SAUCE.

Ingredients.—1 gill of mayonnaise sauce, No. 201, ½ a gill of aspic jelly, (see jellies), ½ a gill of cream, 1 tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar, 1 teaspoonful of anchovy-essence, 1 dessertspoonful of chopped gherkins, 1 dessertspoonful of chopped chutney, ½ a cucumber, salt, pepper, sugar.

Method.—Peel the cucumber thinly, cut it into small pieces, and cook till tender in salted water. Drain off the water, and rub the cucumber through a fine sieve. Carefully mix the mayonnaise with the cream, anchovy-essence, gherkins, and chutney. Mix the cucumber purée with the vinegar and the aspic, which should be dissolved but almost cold. Blend both mixtures together. Season with salt, pepper, and a little castor sugar, and serve with fish, cold meat, or vegetables such as asparagus, green artichokes, etc. This also makes a nice dressing for fish salads.

Time.—40 minutes. Cost, about 1s.

372.—FISH SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Poisson.)

Ingredients.—1 quart of malt vinegar, 2 tablespoonfuls of walnut ketchup, 2 tablespoonfuls of soy, 1 oz. of cayenne, 1 clove of garlic, 2 shallots sliced.

Method.—Put all the ingredients into a large bottle, and shake them daily for a fortnight. When ready, strain into small bottles, cork securely, and store for use.

Time.—14 days. Average Cost, 10d. to 1s.

373.—HARVEY SAUCE.

Ingredients. 1 quart of malt vinegar, ¼ of a pint of Indian soy, ¼ of a pint of mushroom or walnut vinegar, 6 anchovies finely-chopped, 1 clove of garlic bruised, ¼ of an oz. of cayenne.

Method.—Put all the ingredients into an earthenware jar, cover closely, let the mixture remain for 1 month, stirring it 2 or 3 times daily. When ready, strain into small bottles, cork securely, and store or use.

Time.—1 month. Average Cost, 1s. 6d.

374.—HERB SAUCE.

Ingredients.—1 stick of horseradish finely scraped, 2 shallots shredded, 2 or 3 sprigs each of marjoram, thyme, basil, and tarragon, 4 cloves, 1 teaspoonful of caramel browning, No. 155, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 1 pint of water.

Method.—Simmer all these ingredients together for ½ an hour, and when quite cold strain into small bottles. Cork and seal securely, and store for use. This sauce will be found useful for flavouring gravies and stews.

Time.—40 minutes. Average Cost, 8d.

Marjoram (Fr. Marjolaine). There are several species of marjoram, which grows wild on chalky soils of Britain, and is one of the commonest of ornamental wild plants. The species used for culinary purposes is the Sweet Marjoram, a native of Southern Europe. It is cultivated in gardens, and when it blossoms it is cut and the leaves, which have an agreeable aromatic flavour, are dried. Marjoram is a favourite ingredient in stuffings, soups, sauces, etc.

375.—HESSIAN SAUCE.

Ingredients.—⅓ of a pint of sour cream (about), 1 tablespoonful of grated horseradish, 1 tablespoonful of fine breadcrumbs, milk, sugar, salt.

Method.—Soak the breadcrumbs in just as much milk as they will absorb, add the grated horseradish, and a pinch of salt and sugar. Add cream gradually until the desired consistency is obtained, and serve as an accompaniment to roast beef or beef steak.

Time.—About 20 minutes. Average Cost, 8d.

376.—JELLY SAUCE.

Ingredients.—1 small pot of red-currant jelly, 1 glass of port wine.

Method.—Dissolve the red-currant jelly, add the wine, make it thoroughly hot, and serve as an accompaniment to venison.

Time.—½ an hour. Average Cost, 1s.

377.—LEAMINGTON SAUCE.

Ingredients.—3 pints of vinegar, 1 pint of walnut-juice. ½ a pint of Indian soy, ¼ of a pint of port wine, 1 oz. of shallots, ¼ of an oz. of garlic, ½ an oz. of cayenne.

Method.—Procure young green walnuts, pound them to a pulp, sprinkle liberally with salt, and let them remain for 3 days, stirring at frequent intervals. Strain the juice obtained, measure and add the rest of the ingredients in the proportions stated above, the garlic and shallots being previously pounded or finely-chopped. Turn the whole into a large jar, cover closely for 3 weeks, then strain into small bottles, cork and seal securely, and store for use.

Time.—About 1 month. Average Cost, 2s. 10d. to 3s.

378.—LEGHORN SAUCE.

Ingredients.—3 hard-boiled yolks of eggs, salad-oil, vinegar, tarragon vinegar, 2 anchovies pounded and sieved, ½ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, nutmeg, pepper.

Method.—Crush the yolks with a wooden spoon in a basin, add salad-oil, drop by drop at first, until the preparation has the consistency of very thick cream. Stir in a pinch of nutmeg, a little pepper, anchovies, parsley, and vinegar to taste. Set on ice until wanted.

Time.—30 minutes. Average Cost, 1s. 4d.

379.—LEMON SAUCE. (For Fowls, etc.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of chicken stock, ¼ of a pint of milk, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, the thinly-peeled rind and juice of 1 lemon, 1½ ozs. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, salt and pepper.

Method.—Simmer the lemon-rind and the milk and stock together for 10 minutes. Melt the butter in a small saucepan, add the flour, and stir and cook for 5 or 6 minutes, without browning. Pour in the stock and milk, stir until boiling, simmer gently for 20 minutes, season to taste, add the cream and lemon-juice, and serve.

Time.—About ½ an hour. Average Cost, 8d. to 10d.

380.—LIVER AND LEMON SAUCE.

Ingredients.—½ a pint of melted butter, No. 202, 1 lemon, the liver of a fowl, salt and pepper.

Method.—Boil the liver until firm, and chop it finely. Grate off the lemon-rind, and mix it with the liver. Remove every particle of white pith, and cut the lemon into dice, putting all the pips aside. Make the melted butter sauce as directed in No. 202, add the prepared liver, lemon-rind and dice, season to taste, and use as required.

Time.—About ½ an hour. Average Cost, 2½d.

381.—LIVER AND PARSLEY SAUCE.

Ingredients.—½ a pint of melted butter, No. 202, 1 tablespoonful of finely-chopped parsley, the liver of a fowl, salt and pepper.

Method.—Boil the liver until firm, and chop it finely, make the melted butter as directed, add the parsley and prepared liver, season to taste, and serve.

Time.—About 20 minutes. Average Cost, 2½d.

382.—NUT BROWN BUTTER. (Fr.—Beurre Noir.)

Ingredients.—4 ozs. of butter, 1 tablespoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, salt and pepper.

Method.—Cook the butter in a frying pan until it turns brown, then add the parsley, vinegar, and salt and pepper to taste. Let the whole simmer for 1 or 2 minutes, when it is ready to serve.

Time.—¼ of an hour. Average Cost, 5d.

383.—QUIN'S SAUCE.

Ingredients.—1 pint of mushroom ketchup, ½ a pint of walnut pickle, ½ a pint of port wine, ¼ of a pint of soy, 12 anchovies chopped, 12 shallots chopped, ½ a teaspoonful of cayenne.

Method.—Put all the ingredients into a saucepan, simmer gently for 15 minutes, and strain. When quite cold, bottle, cork and seal securely, and store for use.

Time.—25 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 8d.

384.—READING SAUCE.

Ingredients.—2½ pints of walnut pickle, 1½ ozs. of shallots, coarsely-chopped, 1 quart of water, ¾ of a pint of Indian soy, 1 anchovy coarsely-chopped, ½ an oz. of ginger bruised, ½ an oz. of white peppercorns, 1 oz. of mustard seed, ½ an oz. of cayenne, ¼ of an oz. of dried bay-leaves.

Method.—Put the walnut pickle and shallots into a large jar, and cook in a gentle oven until reduced to 2 pints. In another jar place the cayenne, mustard seed, peppercorns, ginger and anchovy, add the soy and water, and cook in a gentle oven for 1 hour after simmering point is reached. Mix the contents of the 2 jars together, and when quite cold add the bay-leaves. Leave closely covered for 1 week, then strain into small bottles, cork and seal securely, and store for use.

Time.—2 hours and 1 week. Average Cost, 2s. 8d. to 3s.

385.—SAUCE FOR STEAKS, CHOPS, ETC.

Ingredients.—1 pint of mushroom ketchup or walnut pickle, ½ an oz. of pickled shallots, ½ an oz. of grated horseradish, ½ an oz. of allspice, 1 oz. of black pepper, 1 oz. of salt.

Method.—Pound the shallots and horseradish until smooth in a mortar, add the rest of the ingredients, and let the whole stand closely covered for 14 days. Strain into small bottles, cork and seal securely, and store for use.

Time.—2 weeks. Average Cost, 1s. 6d.

Allspice (Fr. piment).—The popular name for pimento, or Jamaica pepper, the dried berries of Eugenia pimenta, a lofty handsome tree, with dark shiny green leaves and fragrant white flowers. It belongs to the Myrtaceae, or myrtle family, and receives its name of "Allspice" from its possessing the combined flavours of cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg. The berries are gathered in the green state and dried in the sun, which causes them to turn black. Allspice is used in medicine as an aromatic, and in various ways is employed in cookery.

386.—STORE SAUCE. Ingredients.—1 pint of mushroom ketchup, ½ a pint of walnut ketchup, ½ a pint of port wine, 12 anchovies, 6 shallots, 2 tablespoonfuls of cayenne.

Method.—Pound the anchovies and shallots, or chop them finely; add them to the rest of the ingredients, and boil gently for 1 hour. When cold, put the preparation into well-corked bottles, and store for use.

Time.—1½ hour. Average Cost, 3s.

387.—SUBSTITUTE FOR CAPER SAUCE.

Ingredients.—1 good tablespoonful of coarsely-chopped gherkins ¾ of a pint of white stock, ¼ of a pint of milk, 1 ozs. of butter, 1½ ozs of flour, vinegar, salt and pepper.

Method.—Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, stir and cook the mixture for 6 or 7 minutes, then add the stock and milk. Simmer gently for 10 minutes, season with salt and pepper, add vinegar to taste, and the prepared gherkins. Serve with boiled mutton, or other dishes to which caper sauce forms an accompaniment.

Time.—About 20 minutes. Average Cost, 6d., exclusive of the stock.

388.—SWEDISH SAUCE.

Ingredients.—2 raw yolks of eggs, 2 hard-boiled yolks of eggs, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped mixed herbs, salad oil, tarragon vinegar, prepared mustard, salt and pepper.

Method.—Pass the hard-boiled yolks of eggs through a fine sieve. Stir the raw yolks with a wooden spoon in a small basin until thick and creamy, mix in the yolks, and add the salad oil, drop by drop, until the desired consistency is obtained, stirring briskly meanwhile. Add ½ a teaspoonful of made mustard, the herbs, vinegar, and salt and pepper to taste, and mix well. Stand on ice until required.

Time.—About ½ an hour. Average Cost, 6d. or 7d.

Note.—This sauce is sometimes used for coating or masking purposes; in which case, ½ a gill or so of aspic should be incorporated.

389.—TAMARIND SAUCE.

Ingredients.—Ripe tamarinds, sugar to taste.

Method.—Place the fruit in layers in a stone jar, sprinkling each layer slightly or liberally with sugar, according to taste. Cook in a cool oven until quite tender, then pass through a fine hair sieve, and when quite cold turn into small bottles, cork and seal securely, and store for use.

Time.—About 4 hours.

390.—TOMATO SAUCE. (Fr.—Sauce Tomate.)

Ingredients.—½ a pint of vinegar, 2 lb. of tomatoes, 1 Spanish onion sliced, ½ a lb. of brown sugar, 3 ozs. of allspice, 1 oz. of black peppercorns, 2 ozs. of salt, ¼ of an oz. of cloves, ¼ of a teaspoonful of cayenne.

Method.—Put all the ingredients into a stewjar or saucepan, cover closely, and cook very gently for 2 hours. Pass through a fine hair sieve, let the purée remain until quite cold, then turn into small bottles, cork and seal securely, and store for use.

Time.—About 2¼ hours. Average Cost, 1s. 3d.

391.—TOMATO ASPIC.

Ingredients.—½ a pint of tomato pulp, ½ an oz. of gelatine (previously soaked in water), ½ a gill of aspic, and 1 tablespoonful of meat glaze.

Method.—Put the above named ingredients in a saucepan over the fire, stir until it boils, season to taste with salt and a pinch of cayenne pepper, strain the aspic through a cloth or fine sieve, and use as directed.

Time.—20 minutes. Average Cost, about 1s. 3d.

392.—WORCESTER SAUCE. Ingredients.—1 pint of Bordeaux vinegar, 3 tablespoonfuls of walnut ketchup, 3 tablespoonfuls of essence of anchovy, 2 tablespoonfuls of Indian Soy, 1 teaspoonful of cayenne, 2 cloves of garlic finely-chopped.

Method.—Put all the ingredients into a large bottle, cover closely, and shake well every day for a fortnight. At the end of this time it will be ready for use, but it may be stored for a length of time in well-corked bottles.

Time.—2 weeks. Average Cost, 1s. 4d.

Forcemeats.

Forcemeat, or Farcemeat, as it was originally called, derives its name from the French verb farcie, to stuff. In modern phraseology the term farce or forcemeat is applied equally to the simple and quickly made veal stuffing, the finely-pounded quenelle mixture (which is in no sense a stuffing), and the various farces used to cover sections of pigeons, cutlets, etc.

The consistency of forcemeat varies according to the purpose for which they are required. Those intended for stuffing may be moistened with milk instead of egg, and made much more moist than quenelles, which must retain their shape and be firm enough to support their own weight during the process of cooking.

The quantity of liquid necessary to thoroughly moisten, and the number of eggs required to stiffen the various substances, cannot be stated exactly; but it is better to have a rough guide than none, and when making quenelle mixtures, which must have a certain consistency, and yet retain the lightness which is one of their chief points of excellence, it is advisable to test the mixture by poaching a small quantity of it in boiling water. When too soft, another yolk of egg should be added, if eggs have been already used, or a few crumbs may be added to mixtures of which they already form a part.

The excellence of many simple forcemeats depends largely on flavourings and seasoning. In making them, it is a common error to use too little salt and pepper, and too few flavourings; it is much better to use a small quantity of several kinds than to allow one flavour to predominate. A comparatively large quantity of nutmeg may be used in forcemeat without its presence being detected; it is believed that its strength is in some manner used in developing the flavour of the substances with which it is mixed.

The liquid in which quenelles are poached must always be quite boiling, in order that the surface may immediately harden, and so help them to retain their shape.

393.—CHESTNUT FARCE FOR ROAST TURKEY.

Ingredients.—2 lb. of chestnuts, ½ a pint of stock or water, 1 oz. of butter, a good pinch of sugar, salt and pepper.

Method.—Cut off the tops of the chestnuts, and bake or roast them for 20 minutes. Remove both the outer and inner skins, put the chestnuts into a stewpan, add the stock (no more than will barely cover them), and simmer until they become tender and dry. Rub through a fine sieve, add the butter, salt and pepper, and use as required.

Time.—About 1 hour. Average Cost, from 7d. to 8d. without the stock.

394.—FARCE OF WHITING OR OTHER FISH.

Ingredients.—½ a lb. of uncooked fish (two whitings), ¼ of a pint of milk or fish stock, No. 5, 2 ozs. of flour, 1 oz. of butter, 2 eggs, pepper and salt.

Method.—Melt the butter, stir in the flour, add the milk or stock, and cook until the panada forms a compact mass round the bowl of the spoon. Pound the fish and the panada well together, add the eggs one by one, season well, and pass the ingredients through a wire sieve.

A lighter mixture may be obtained when required by pounding 3 yolks with the fish and mixing the 3 whites (stiffly whipped) after passing the mixture through the seive.

Time.—About 35 minutes. Average Cost, about 1s. for this quantity.

395.—FORCEMEAT FOR BAKED FISH. (Fr.—Farce de Huîtres et d'Anchois.)

Ingredients.—3 ozs. of breadcrumbs, 1 teaspoonful of minced savoury herbs, 8 oysters, 2 anchovies (these may be dispensed with), 2 ozs. suet, salt and pepper, pounded mace to taste, 6 tablespoonfuls of cream or milk, the yolks of 2 eggs.

Method.—Beard and mince the oysters, prepare and mix the other ingredients, and blend the whole thoroughly together. Moisten with the cream and eggs, put all into a stewpan, and stir the mixture over the fire till it thickens. Stuff the inside of the fish with the preparation, and sew up the opening.

Time.—4 or 5 minutes to thicken. Average Cost, 10d. Sufficient for a moderate-sized pike.

396.—FORCEMEAT FOR SAVOURY PIES.

Ingredients.—½ a lb. of veal finely-chopped, ¼ of a lb. of bacon finely-chopped, 2 tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs, 1 dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, ½ a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, ¼ of a teaspoonful of finely-grated lemon-rind, 1 egg, nutmeg, salt and pepper.

Method.—Mix the veal, bacon, breadcrumbs, parsley, herbs and lemon-rind well together, and season to taste. Add the egg, which should thoroughly moisten the dry ingredients; if too small to do this, use a little milk or water in addition. Mix well, and use as required.

Average Cost.—10d. to 1s. Sufficient for 1 large pie.

397.—HAM FORCEMEAT FOR VEAL, TURKEY, FOWL, HARE.

Ingredients.—2 ozs. of ham or lean bacon, 4 ozs. of suet, 4 ozs. of bread crumbs, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, ½ a teaspoonful of mixed herbs, the grated rind of ½ a lemon, a good pinch of nutmeg, a good pinch of mace, 2 eggs, or 1 egg and a little milk, salt and pepper.

Method.—Chop the ham and suet finely. Mix all the dry ingredients well together, add the eggs, season to taste, mix well, and use as required. When the mixture is intended for balls, the consistency should be tested by poaching a small quantity in boiling water.

Time.—20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, about 6d. for this quantity.

398.—LIVER FARCE (Fr.—Farce de Foie de Veau.) (FOR QUAILS, AND OTHER BIRDS.)

Ingredients.—½ a lb. of calf's liver, 2 ozs. of lean veal, 3 ozs. of bacon, ½ a very small onion, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 1 oz. of butter, the yolk of 1 egg, salt and pepper.

Method.—Cut the liver, veal, and bacon into very small pieces, melt the butter in a sauté-pan, put in the meat, onion, finely-chopped, bouquet-garni, and a good seasoning of salt and pepper, and fry 10 or 15 minutes. Pound in a mortar, rub through a wire sieve, add the yolk of egg, mix well, season to taste, and use as required.

Time.—About 40 minutes. Average Cost, 10d. to 1s.

399.—LOBSTER FARCE FOR QUENELLES.

Ingredients.—6 ozs. of lobster, ¼ of a pint of fish stock or milk, 2 ozs. of flour, 1 oz. of butter, 2 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, salt, cayenne.

Method.—Melt the butter in a saucepan, stir in the flour, add the stock or milk, and cook until it leaves the sides of the saucepan clear and forms a compact mass round the bowl of the spoon, then put it aside to cool. Chop the lobster finely, and pound it and the panada (flour mixture) well together in the mortar; add each egg separately, season to taste, pound thoroughly, and rub the mixture through a wire sieve. Stir in the cream, and the farce is ready for use. This mixture, being very light, is best steamed in small quenelle or dariol moulds.

Average Cost,—2s. to 2s. 6d. for this quantity.

400.—OYSTER FORCEMEAT FOR ROAST OR BOILED TURKEY.

Ingredients.—18 sauce oysters, ½ a pint of breadcrumbs, 2 ozs. of finely-chopped suet, ½ a teaspoonful of mixed herbs, a good pinch of nutmeg, salt and pepper, 1 egg, and a little milk if necessary (or oyster liquor).

Method.—Beard the oysters, put any liquor from them into a saucepan, add the beards, and simmer for about 10 minutes. Cut the oysters into small pieces, mix with them the breadcrumbs, suet, herbs, nutmeg, and seasoning. Add the egg and sufficient milk or oyster liquor to thoroughly moisten the whole, and mix well. Press the farce lightly into the breast of the turkey.

Time.—From 30 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, about 1s. 9d. for quantity. Sufficient for one turkey.

401.—PORK STUFFING.

Ingredients.—1 lb. of onions, 4 tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs, 2 ozs. butter, 1 dessertspoonful of finely-chopped sage or a teaspoonful of powdered sage, salt and pepper.

Method.—Cut the onions into slices, cover them with cold water, bring to the boil, cook for 5 minutes, then strain and drain well. Melt the butter in a stewpan, and fry the onions for about 15 minutes without browning. Add the breadcrumbs, sage and seasoning, mix well, and use as required.

Average Cost.—4d. Sufficient for a leg or loin of pork.

Note.—For other methods see "Sage and Onion Stuffing."

402.—QUENELLES, TO SHAPE.

To make quenelles a good shape it is necessary to use a knife and two dessertspoons, or smaller spoons when intended for soup. Dip one of the spoons in hot water to prevent the mixture sticking to it, fill it with the farce, press it from the sides, and raise it in the centre with the knife (previously dipped in hot water), making it a nice oval shape. Take the other spoon, dip it into hot water, pass the knife carefully round the edge of the quenelle, transfer it to the second spoon and shape as before. As the quenelles are shaped they should be placed in the sauté pan, or stewpan, in which they are to be cooked. When ready, sufficient boiling stock or water to half cover them should be added, and the top of the quenelles must be covered with a sheet of greased paper to preserve the colour, and keep moist that part of the quenelles not under water.

403.—QUENELLES FOR SOUP.

Ingredients.—½ a lb. of fillet of veal, ⅛ of a pint of stock, ½ an oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 1 egg, salt and pepper.

Method.—Melt the butter in a small saucepan, add first the flour and then the stock, stir and cook until the mixture forms a compact mass round the bowl of the spoon, then put it aside to cool. Pass the veal 2 or 3 times through the mincing machine, or chop it finely. Pound the panada (or flour mixture) and the meat well together until smooth. Add the eggs separately, season to taste, and give the whole a good pounding. Pass the mixture through a fine sieve, shape it into small quenelles by means of 2 egg spoons, and poach in a little hot stock until firm. Add them to the soup, and serve.

Time.—About 45 minutes. Average Cost, 8d. to 9d.

404.—SAGE AND ONION STUFFING. (For Roast Goose, Duck, Pork.)

Ingredients.—2 lb. of onions, ½ a pint of freshly-made bread crumbs, 1 tablespoonful of finely-chopped sage or a teaspoonful of powdered sage, 2 ozs. of butter, salt and pepper.

Method.—Cut the onions into dice, put them into cold water, bring to the boil, cook for 5 minutes, then strain and drain well. Melt the butter in a stewpan, and fry the onions for about 15 minutes without browning them. Add the breadcrumbs, sage, and seasoning, mix well, and use as required.

Time.—About ½ an hour. Average Cost, 7d. to 8d. Sufficient for 1 goose, or 2 ducks.

405.—SAGE AND ONION STUFFING. (For roast Goose, Duck, and Pork.)

Ingredients.—4 large onions, 10 sage leaves, ¼ of a lb. of breadcrumbs, 1½ ozs. of butter, salt and pepper to taste, 1 egg.

Method.—Peel the onions, put them into boiling water, let them simmer for 5 minutes or rather longer, and, just before they are taken out, put in the sage leaves for a minute or two to take off their rawness. Chop both these very fine, add the bread, seasoning, and butter, and work the whole together with the yolk of an egg, when the stuffing will be ready for use. It should be rather highly seasoned, and the sage leaves should be very finely chopped. Many cooks do not parboil the onions in the manner just stated, but merely use them raw, but the stuffing then is not nearly so mild, and, to many tastes, its strong flavour would be very objectionable. When made for goose, a portion of the liver of the bird, simmered for a few minutes and very finely minced, is frequently added to this stuffing; and where economy is studied, the egg and butter may be dispensed with.

Time.—Rather more than 5 minutes, to simmer the onions. Average Cost, for this quantity, 4d. Sufficient for 1 goose, or a pair of ducks.

406.—SAUSAGE FARCE. (For Stuffing Turkey.)

Ingredients.—2 lb. of lean pork, 4 level tablespoonfuls of freshly-made breadcrumbs, ½ a teaspoonful of mixed herbs, ½ a teaspoonful of sage, 1 teaspoonful of salt, ½ a teaspoonful of pepper, the liver of the turkey finely chopped. Stock.

Method.—Cut the pork into small pieces, and pass it two or three times through the mincing machine. Add to it the breadcrumbs, herbs, liver, seasoning, and mix well together. Moisten with a very little stock, and use.

Time.—From 20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 1s. 6d. to 1s. 7d. Sufficient for one turkey.

407.—SAVOURY OYSTER STUFFING.

Ingredients.—12 large oysters, 1 gill of stock, 4 ozs. of soft white breadcrumbs, a little grated lemon rind, 1 dessertsponful chopped parsely, 1 pinch of mace, 1½ oz. of butter, salt and pepper to taste.

Method.—Beard the oysters, save the liquor and put it with the beards and the stock and bring to the boil. Allow to simmer till the flavour is extracted from the beards, then strain. Mix together the breadcrumbs, grated lemon, chopped parsley, salt, pepper, butter, mace and the oysters chopped, bind the mixture with the egg and as much of the oyster stock as will bring to the proper consistency. Use for stuffing fish or poultry.

Time.—30 minutes. Average Cost,1s. 6d. to 2s. Sufficient for 1 goose.

408.—SOYER'S RECIPE FOR GOOSE STUFFING.

Method.—Take 4 apples, peeled and cored, 4 onions, 4 leaves of sage, 4 leaves of lemon thyme not broken, and boil them in a stewpan with sufficient water to cover them; when done, pulp them through a sieve, removing the sage and thyme; then add sufficient pulp of mealy potatoes to cause it to be sufficiently dry, without sticking to the hand; add pepper and salt, and stuff the bird.

Lemon Thyme (Fr. thym). Thymus citridorus, is a variety of the familiar aromatic herb. It is a trailing evergreen of smaller growth than the garden thyme, and is remarkable for its smell, which resembles that of the rind of a lemon: hence its distinctive name. Lemon thyme is cultivated in gardens for its fragrant odour, and is used for seasoning, and for some particular dishes, in which it is desired the fragrance of the lemon should slightly predominate.

409.—SUET FORCEMEAT.

Ingredients.—2 tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped suet, 4 tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs, 1 good dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, ½ a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, ¼ of a teaspoonful of grated lemon-rind, 1 egg and a little milk, nutmeg, salt and pepper.

Method.—Mix all the dry ingredients well together, add the egg and sufficient milk to slightly moisten the whole, season to taste, and use.

Time.—20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 3d. to 4d.

410.—TRUFFLE FORCEMEAT.

Ingredients.—½ lb. of truffles (preferably fresh ones), ½ a lb. of veal, ½ a lb. of pork or bacon (fat and lean in equal parts), 1 finely-chopped shallot, 1 glass of sherry, salt and pepper.

Method.—Pass the veal and pork or bacon 2 or 3 times through a mincing machine, or chop the meat very finely, pound in a mortar until quite smooth, then pass through a wire sieve. Chop the shallot and truffles finely, add them to the meat preparation, season to taste, and moisten with the sherry and a little stock, or liquor from the truffles when using bottled ones. Use as required.

Average Cost.—6 to 8 shillings. Sufficient for 1 small turkey.

411.—VEAL FARCE FOR QUENELLES, ETC.

Ingredients.—1 lb. of fillet of veal, ¼ of a pint of stock, 1 oz. of butter, 2 ozs. of flour, 2 eggs, salt and pepper.

Method.—Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the flour and the stock, stir and cook until the mixture forms a compact mass round the bowl of the spoon, then put it aside to cool. Pass the veal two or three times through the mincing machine, or chop it finely. Pound the panada (the flour mixture) and the meat well together until smooth. Add the eggs separately, season to taste, and give the whole a good pounding. Pass the mixture through a fine sieve, and use as required.

Time.—About 45 minutes. Average Cost, 1s. 5d. without the stock.

412.—VEAL FARCE. (For Quenelles, etc.)

Ingredients.—½ a lb. of lean veal, ½ a lb. of veal suet (finely chopped), 3 ozs. of soaked bread, 2 eggs, a little grated nutmeg, salt and pepper.

Method.—Pass the meat 2 or 3 times through a mincing machine or chop it finely, then pound the suet and veal together in a mortar. Add the eggs one at a time, and the bread in small portions. Also add about ¼ of a pint of cold water, but before using the whole, poach a little of the mixture in boiling water to test the consistency; if too soft, add a little more bread; if too stiff, a little more water, shape into quenelles, as directed on page 283.

Time.—About 45 minutes. Average Cost, 1s.

413.—VEAL FORCEMEAT. (Fr.—Farce de Veau.)

Ingredients.—½ a lb. of lean veal, ¼ of a lb. of finely-chopped beef suet, 2 ozs. of fat bacon cut into fine strips, 2 tablespoonfuls of freshly-made breadcrumbs, 1 dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, ½ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped onion, 2 eggs, salt and pepper, a pinch of ground mace, a pinch of nutmeg.

Method.—Pass the veal twice through the mincing machine, then pound it and the suet and bacon well in the mortar. Pass through a wire sieve, add the rest of the ingredients, season to taste, and use.

Time.—About 45 minutes. Average Cost, 1s. 3d for this quantity.

414.—VEAL FORCEMEAT. (Fr.—Farce de Veau.) (Economical.)

Ingredients.—4 tablespoonfuls of freshly-made breadcrumbs, 2 tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped suet, 1 tablespoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 1 teaspoonful of powdered thyme, ¼ of a teaspoonful of grated lemon-rind, 1 egg and a little milk, a good pinch of nutmeg, salt and pepper.

Method.—Mix all the dry ingredients well together, add the egg and sufficient milk to thoroughly moisten the whole, season to taste, and use.

Time.—20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, from 3d. to 4d. for this quantity.

415.—WHITING FORCEMEAT. (Fr.—Farce de Merlan.)

Ingredients.—1 whiting, 2 oz. panada or soaked bread, 1 oz. butter, Béchamel sauce (No. 177), 1 egg, cream.

Method.—Remove the meat from the whiting, pound it in a mortar, with 2 ozs. of panada and 1 oz. of butter, and rub all through a fine sieve. Put this preparation into a basin, and work in gradually 1 tablespoonful of well-reduced cold Béchamel sauce, 1 whole egg, and 1 tablespoonful of cream. Season with pepper, salt, and a little grated nutmeg. Test the farce or forcemeat before using, and if not sufficiently firm add another yolk of egg or a little panada. Use as directed.