Mrs. Beeton's Book of Household Management/Chapter XVII
SHEEP AND LAMB.
CHAPTER XVIIGeneral Observations on the various breeds, Colonial Sheep, manner of cutting up, table of prices, etc.
The origin of domesticated sheep is by no means clear, although much pains has been taken by naturalists to trace their history. In the exhaustive treatise on sheep by William Youatt, published in 1837, an interesting account is given of both wild and domesticated sheep, and the reader is carried back to the time of Abel, who sacrificed "the firstlings of his flock." The constant allusions to sheep in the book of Genesis are remarkable, and the patriarch Jacob was a successful breeder. The whiteness of the wool is emphasized in several passages of the Old Testament, and Gideon's fleece was used as a prophetic sign. Homer sang of sheep, and Moses attended the flocks of Jethro. The shepherd kings conquered Egypt, and the patriarchs were warned by their brother Joseph to speak of themselves to Pharaoh as understanding "cattle" because "every shepherd is an abomination unto the Egyptians." Nevertheless a few verses on we read that when Pharaoh asked "What is your occupation?" the honest reply was "Thy servants are shepherds, both we and also our fathers." Sheep in that early period were in many respects similar to what they are now. The most esteemed wool was white, the lambs and rams were fat, the flocks were tended, washed, shorn and milked. Lambs without spot or blemish were sacrificed to Jehovah, and rams' skins dyed red were used in embellishing the Tabernacle of the congregation.
WILD SHEEP.
Truly wild sheep such as Ovis ammon or argae, Ovis musmon, etc., do not appear to be the progenitors of Ovis aries or the domesticated sheep, the wild types of which seem to have disappeared completely. The great naturalist Darwin was unable to throw any light on the origin of our sheep, and despairingly remarks: "Most authors look at our domestic sheep as descended from several distinct species. Mr. Blyth, who has carefully attended to this subject, believes that fourteen wild species now exist, but that not one of them can be identified as the progenitor of any one of the interminable domestic races. M. Gervais thinks that there are six species of Ovis, but that our domestic sheep form a distinct genus now completely extinct. Dr. L. Fitzinger believes that our sheep descend from the aboriginally distinct species, of which only one is now living in a wild state. Another ingenious observer, though not a naturalist, with a bold defiance of everything known on geographical distribution, infers that the sheep of Great Britain alone are the descendants of eleven endemic forms" (Darwin's "Animals and plants under Domestication").
It would evidently be foreign to our present object to describe any truly wild sheep, as they are not known to be in any way connected with domestic sheep, except biologically or generically.
DOMESTICATED SHEEP.
No doubt these are descended from wild forms, which at an early period in human history were reclaimed and domesticated, and it is probable that the original types were fitted for the purposes of man and capable of improvement. Zoologically, they belonged to the great natural order Ruminantia, and to the division of the hollow–horned ruminants, among which are to be found oxen, antelopes and goats (capridae). The Ovidae are closely related to the Capridae, but have no beard, and differ in voice and habits. The peculiar bleat of the sheep is common to all races, as is also their dense covering of wool. In some races the wool is largely mingled with hair, and it is certain that the fineness and whiteness of the wool is the result of careful breeding for probably thousands of years. Many unimproved breeds are parti-coloured, as was evidently the case in the time of Jacob, where we read of "ring-straked, spotted and speckled." It is proverbial that there is a black sheep in every flock, and the constant recurrence of black, grey and reddish fleeces even in the most carefully bred flocks attests the fact that at one time they were much more common than now. Many lambs are born black or dark in colour, although they grow white later in life, and this is in accordance with the observation that young animals often exhibit markings and peculiarities of very remote ancestors.
If we confine ourselves to British races of sheep we shall find among them almost every characteristic of the domesticated animal. Many of them are horned, as in the cases of the Highland black-faced breed, the Lonk, the Crag or Limestone, the Dorset and the old Wiltshire breed. Others are hornless, like the Leicesters, Lincolns, Downs, Oxfords and Shropshires, but in all breeds there are occasional rudimentary or defective horns known as "snags." There can be no doubt that all our breeds were originally horned. The faces and shanks are white, black, piebald, grey or russet, according to race, A SOUTHDOWN WETHER.
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and the fleeces are long, medium, short, close or open, fine or coarse.
THE PRINCIPAL BREEDS.
If we take a survey from the extreme north to the south coast, we shall find the following races of sheep in possession. The remoter parts of Scotland, such as the islands of Arran, Islay, Jura, the Orkneys and Shetlands are still inhabited by sheep of small size of various colours, some being dun-faced, others white-faced and horned, others dark, black, or russet in colour. These are apparently indigenous, or, as in the case of Shetland sheep, derived from Scandinavia. Shetland wool is well known for its fineness, and is esteemed for the manufacture of shawls, stockings, and for all light woollen manufactures. Argyleshire and most of the black or heath lands of the Highlands, are now stocked with the Heath or Black-faced breed, which is armed in both sexes with horns. The faces and legs are black and white, clearly defined; the fleece is long and mixed with hair along the back; the form is short and the general character active, bold and hardy. They live on grass and heather, and the flesh derives a pleasant flavour from the latter. The black-faced sheep has displaced the original smaller breeds throughout the Highlands, and as far south as Dumfriesshire. It occupies the extensive moors of Northumberland, and extends into Derbyshire, and it is highly esteemed in the mountainous regions of N. Wales.
The Cheviot breed of sheep is short woolled and usually hornless. Its original home is the Great Cheviot, but it is largely kept on the Lowlands, both north and south of Cheviot. This sheep is extremely hardy, and does well upon the lower ranges of the Scotch Highlands wherever grass abounds; but when heather takes the place of grass the black faces predominate. A cross between Cheviot and Border-Leicester is much in favour throughout the Lowlands, and in the northern counties of England.
The Border-Leicester is well known in Berwickshire, Roxburgh and Northumberland, both as a pure breed and for crossing with both Cheviot and black-faced ewes. The former gives an excellent "teg," which fattens more rapidly than the Cheviot. The latter gives the "mule" or Masham sheep, which thrives well upon the poorer classes of grass land in Yorkshire, Durham and Northumberland.
In Yorkshire the true Leicester occurs in perfection, but this breed is also found in its native county, and is the premier breed of the country in point of age as its improvement was carried out by Robert Bakewell of Dishley, Loughborough, in the middle years of the eighteenth century. The Improved Leicester breed has been more extensively used than any other long woolled race in improving other breeds of similar character of wool. The improved Lincoln. Romney Marsh, Kentish long-wools, Devon long-wools and Cotswolds were all crossed with Leicesters in the earlier years of the last century or previously. The mutton is rather coarse and the fat is laid on too thickly; but for crossing purposes the breed has been very useful.
In Lincolnshire the Improved Lincoln is the predominant breed, especially in the low-lying rich lands of the south. It is a white-faced hornless breed, and in this respect closely resembles the Leicester. It is of much larger size, and is probably the heaviest sheep in the world. Lincoln sheep have often attained a weight of 90 lb. a quarter or 360 lb. carcass weight, while their wool has been known to measure 23 inches in length, and the fleeces have scaled as heavy as 23 lb. of wool. This sheep is adapted for the rich marshes of the fen districts, and requires good land. Its wool has received the appellation of "lustre," from its glistening brilliance where severed from the body. The Lincoln sheep is too heavy in the carcass and too fat to please the taste of epicures. In the days when wool sold at 1s. 6d. to 2s. a pound, a Lincoln teg in his wool was worth £5, and even now Lincoln rams from the best flocks have been sold for hundreds of pounds each. There is a great export trade for the rams to Argentina and Australia, as the Lincoln-Merino is a profitable cross, combining the properties of both flesh and wool to a high degree.
In the Midlands of England Shropshire sheep are the favourite breed. They are of composite origin, being derived from Shropshire ewes crossed successively with Leicester and South Downs. They now constitute an established race of medium woolled, dark-faced, hornless sheep, of thick and substantial form, and yielding mutton of superior quality.
The Oxford breed was originally derived by crossing Cotswolds and Hampshire Downs, and the produce were long known as cross-breds. The credit is due to the late Mr. John Twynam, and the Messrs. Druce of Eynsham. The Oxfords are not so widely distributed as the Shropshires, but they breed largely in Oxfordshire and contiguous counties. In many respects they resemble Shropshires, but are easily distinguished by their longer ears and freedom from wrinkles on the neck and around the under-jaw.
The Cotswold breed of sheep has long been associated with the Cotswold hills, which rise above Cheltenham and extend through north Gloucestershire into Oxfordshire and Worcestershire. It is an upstanding, white-faced, hornless sheep, with a boldly curling fleece, and, like all the heavy breeds of long-woolled sheep, its mutton does not command the highest price. It is however highly esteemed upon its native hills, and is no doubt the result of Leicester crosses upon the older breed which occupied Cotswold.
Among other long-woolled sheep, the Devon long wools, the Kentish long wools, the Romney Marsh and the Worsleydale all deserve notice, and all three closely resemble Lincoln sheep.
DOWN BREEDS.
The South Down or Sussex Down stands out pre-eminently as the best known of all the Down races of sheep. It was improved by the elder and younger Ellmans of Glynde, and was considered in the time of George III to be a perfect sheep for wool and mutton, size and quality. Four-year-old South Down mutton was the food of kings and nobles, and is still unrivalled except by some of the smaller Welsh and Devon breeds. The South Down is a hornless sheep with fawn-coloured face and legs. His form is singularly compact, and his carcass is always heavier than it looks. His original home is the Sussex Downs, north of Brighton, and it is there that he attains the highest perfection. The breed has always been a favourite, and King Edward VII is a breeder of excellent South Downs. So was the late Duke of Richmond, the present Lord Walsingham, and many distinguished gentlemen. After the Ellmans, the late Jonas Webb, of Babraham, Cambridgeshire, deserves special notice as an improver of this invaluable breed of sheep. What the Leicester sheep was to the older long-woolled races of sheep, the South Down has been to the numerous Down breeds, which in the time of Youatt occupied every chalk county in England. At that time Kent, Essex, Bucks, Berks, Surrey, Sussex, Hants, etc., all boasted breeds of Down sheep, but the South Down left an impress which obliterated most of these distinctions. He was crossed repeatedly upon the flocks of these counties, including Hampshire and Wilts, and the consequence is that at the present time there are only three types of Downs, namely, the Sussex Down, the Hampshire Down, and the Suffolk Down, all of which owe their perfection to crosses with the South Down. The same is true of Shropshire and Oxford sheep, so that the Sussex Down must be credited with having improved all the Down breeds of the country.
Hampshire Downs.—These were formerly called West-country Downs, because they were originally found west of the South Downs upon he chalk hills of Hampshire. They were freely crossed with South Downs, and notably by Mr. Humphries of Oakash, Berks, who is looked upon as the immediate founder of the Improved Hampshire Down. This sheep is of larger build than the South Down and darker features. The best are almost black in face and legs, hornless (as every breed in in this review not described as horned may be assumed to be), and well covered upon the head with white wool. "Well coloured and well covered" is one of the watchwords of the Hampshire Down breeder; and sheep which can be so described are always admired. They are very hardy and well suited for the high and exposed uplands of Wilts and Hants. They are however by no means confined to those counties, but are found either pure or crossed in all parts of the country. Hampshire rams have recently made 100 guineas each, and deserve a higher price. They yield good fleeces and first-rate mutton, and are every year gaining in favour for exportation.
Suffolk Downs.—The Suffolk men are justly proud of their county breed, which although there can be little doubt that it was crossed with the Sussex Down, is now a distinct or constituted breed. The distinguishing features are black faces and black shanks, and the head is bare of wool even behind the ears. This at once distinguishes them from Hampshire Downs. They have no horns, and the wool and mutton are of excellent quality. There is no better breed, but space scarcely allows of extended remarks upon this, the third true Down sheep requiring notice.
The Dorset Horn.—The Dorset horned sheep is chiefly found in South Hants, the Isle of Wight and on the south coast. It is a white-faced breed, horned in both sexes, and covered with fine white wool. Its chief distinction lies in the fact that it produces the earliest lamb for the London market. The ewes drop their lambs in September and later, and the greatest pains is taken in order to provide fat lambs about Christmas. This form of sheep-farming requires a breed adapted to the purpose and a favourable climate, and both these conditions are supplied by the Dorset sheep and the Dorsetshire soil.
MOUNTAIN AND FOREST BREEDS.
The Scotch black faces have already received attention, and must rank as the widest in distribution of any mountain or forest breed. As, however, several of the less known breeds are highly appreciated for the fineness of their flesh, and its delicate and close-grained quality, a short space must be devoted to them. Welsh mutton stands high in public estimation, and is furnished by the small white-faced hornless sheep of the Principality, which attains a weight of 9 to 10 lb. a quarter.
Dartmoor and Exmoor Sheep.—Although the sheep of Dartmoor and Exmoor have been modified by Leicester crosses, there still remains the original small-horned white-faced sheep, which resembles a diminutive Dorset, weighing 9 to 12 lb. per quarter. This produces the celebrated Okehampton mutton, which always commands a high price in London.
Clun Forest Sheep, etc.—These are a white-faced hornless breed of small size, and may be named in connexion with the black- faced horned Long Mynd breed, and fine-woolled Morfe common horned, speckled-faced sheep, which is said to have been used in bringing out the better known Shropshire breed of sheep.
The Herdwick Sheep.—This is a race which is cultivated in Westmoreland, Cumberland and the Lake district. It is highly popular in these districts, and the lambs are born with black heads and feet, but gradually become white as they grow older. Horns are not essential, although they are frequent in the rams, but the ewes are hornless. The Herdwick sheep exhibited at Chester in 1893 were often dark in the wool, and the second prize ram was nearly black. Swarthiness in the wool did not appear to disqualify in the eyes of the judges.
Lonk Sheep.—These sheep resemble the Scotch black-faced breed, but their wool is much finer, probably due to South Down crosses at an early period.
Crag or Limestone Sheep.—Both sexes are horned, and the faces, shanks and fleeces are white. They stand drought remarkably well, and do not require water. They are found upon the mountain limestone tracts of West Yorkshire and East Lancashire, and form a striking contrast to the Lonks, which do better upon the damper and lower grounds of these dales.
Welsh Sheep.—These are very various in character. Some are white-faced and furnished with horns, while others are hornless. The best type of Radnors are black-faced, and the rams are horned. They are all of small size, and are esteemed for the superior quality of their mutton. Small joints and a weight of from 9 to 14 or 15 lb. a quarter, coupled with meat of a fine grain and dark colour, are their principal attractions.
Reviewing these numerous breeds of sheep, it is interesting to inquire the reasons why they differ from each other so widely. There can be no doubt that several of these races spring from distinct species which at one time existed in the wild state. Domestication, however, always tends to variation of type, as was originally pointed out by the naturalist Pallas. No sooner is an animal or plant placed under artificial conditions than it ceases to breed true. This fact is proved by domesticated animal and cultivated plant. Even our pets, such as cage-birds, pigeons, poultry, dogs, cats, rabbits, mice, rats, etc., produce young which break into new colours and new properties. The uniformity of Nature is disturbed and variation is the result, and that in almost every conceivable direction. It is the same with cultivated plants, and is due, in a word, to artificial conditions. Still, the natural disposition of like to produce like holds good, and as a consequence the peculiarity or variation is continued and may be exaggerated by selection. In the next place, crossing established, sub-varieties, producing still more forms, and the breeder's art assisted in developing those characters which he desired to see perpetuated.
Selection and crossing are answerable for a large number, if not all, of our races, but soil and climate are still always acting in further modifying types. It is remarkable that domesticated animals as well as plants which have escaped from artificial restraint, gradually return to their original type, or at least to uniformity of colour, size and habits. In sheep the principal objects of the breeder are the development of flesh and wool, but in this treatise meat is of the greater importance.
Quality of Mutton.—The best mutton is generally associated with the smaller breeds of sheep, on account of the finer texture of the muscular fibres which constitute the lean meat. These small sheep are found where the herbage is short, sweet and varied, and where the animal must exert itself to find its food. Exercise leads to muscular development, and is unfavourable to the accumulation of mass of fat. The flesh closely resembles venison or game, and is rich in muscle (lean), and not disfigured by fat. Hence all mountain and heath sheep produce a high quality of mutton. Short wool and fine mutton generally go together, and in most of the best mutton races the face and shanks are coloured black, brown or grey. The Down breeds have all roamed over sweet and scant herbage for centuries, and have acquired a muscular development and fineness of fibre common to them all. The long-woolled races above described have developed heavier fleeces, larger frames, and coarser flesh by grazing on rich lowlands, and by artificial feeding in winter. They lay their fat on externally on their backs and loins, and never handle so firmly as Down or Forest-bred sheep. The two classes of long-woolled and short-woolled sheep differ in the following points:—
| Long-Woolled Sheep. | Short-Woolled Sheep. |
| Heavier carcasses. | Lighter carcasses. |
| Longer wool. | Shorter wool. |
| White faces and shanks. | Brown faces and shanks. |
| Coarser mutton. | Finer mutton. |
| Fat, external and unduly developed. | Fat, internal and better mixed with the lean. |
| Adapted for lowlands. | Adapted for highlands. |
Age has a great deal to do with the quality of meat, as is well shown by the expression "four-year-old mutton." This is considered the age for producing the highest quality of dark-grained tender flesh, but the exigencies of modern farming have rendered it necessary to lower the age, and most mutton is now killed at from ten to sixteen months old. In parks and demesnes it is still usual to hold back the smaller wethers to grow slowly into mutton for the private table of their wealthy owners.
Sex too is important. Wether mutton, or the flesh of the castrated male, is in the highest repute, although scarcely superior to young female mutton. Rams are always coarse in flesh and of inferior value after six months old, and acquire a strong flavour. Ewe mutton is also inferior, not on account of its age, which is generally only three or four years, but because bearing and suckling lambs dries the flesh and renders it less juicy and palatable.
Feeding exercises a very marked effect upon the meat. Turnips and oil-cake develop fat to an undue degree, and impart a coarseness not found in grass- or mountain-fed meat.
Lamb is always highly esteemed and commands a high price. It should be milk-fed and fattened while with the dam. The fat of lambs is never distasteful.
The best weight for carcasses is from 16 to 20 lb. per quarter, and heavy mutton is always less saleable. Some of the most esteemed mutton is from the smaller breeds, which only scale from 9 to 15 lb. per quarter, and the legs only about 4½ lb.
Foreign Mutton.—New Zealand Mutton and Canterbury Lamb are now sold everywhere at prices much below English-grown meat. The freezing process to which the carcasses are subjected does not improve the quality of the meat, and there is a good deal more shrinkage in cooking. There is some prejudice among many people against it, which may be well-founded. It certainly is cheap, while the best qualities of English mutton maintain their price. The effect upon the price of second and third qualities of home-produced meat has been more pronounced.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON LAMBS.
The lambing season in this country commences with the new year. In all high-class flocks where rams are bred, and in all flocks where the production of fat lamb is a principal object, lambing must be early, and in some cases is well forward by Christmas. The natural disposition is, no doubt, for ewes to produce young in the spring, but in the artificial conditions in which domestic sheep are placed, some breeds will lamb as early as September and October. Among these, Dorset ewes are the best known, and are the source of the earliest lamb which supplies the London market. Lambs are wonderfully hardy, and upon the Wiltshire and Hampshire Downs are to be seen playing around the lambing pens in large numbers in January and February. For the first three weeks or so they require shelter from bitter winds and driving snow, and this is easily provided by thatched hurdles and ricks of straw or hay, conveniently placed to give the necessary "succour." This in fact constitutes the "lambing pen," which is a temporary erection of the nature indicated. It is often of large size and divided into straw-littered courts for the latest dropped and the stronger lambs, according to age. The twin lambs require more shelter and care than the robuster single lambs. When fat lambs are the object, the ewes are liberally supplied with oil-cake and corn, in order to stimulate the flow of milk, and at the earliest possible age the lambs are encouraged to feed out of small troughs upon finely-ground linseed cake and split peas or beans. They are also allowed to run forward through lamb creeps, in order to crop the turnip greens, early rye, and other succulent herbage. Everything is done to develop flesh, and at this stage lambs will increase in weight at the rate of 1 lb. per day. At ten or twelve weeks old such lambs will weigh of dressed carcass about 10 to 12 lb. per quarter. Hampshire Down lambs are well suited for the purpose of providing early lamb, but several other breeds may be successfully employed for the same purpose. On the south coast and in the Isle of Wight the raising of fat lambs is a special industry, and the ewes are timed to drop their lambs in September. In many cases the lambs are placed in houses, and the ewes are allowed frequent access to the lambs, but do not remain constantly with them. Lambs command a high price in the early months of the new year, but as the season progresses they gradually approximate to mutton price, so that the great object of the producer of fat lambs is to market his lambs as soon as possible.
In the early part of the season, however reared, lamb is, in London, and indeed generally, sold in quarters, divided with 12 ribs to the forequarter; but, as the season advances, these are subdivided into two, and the hind-quarter in the same manner; the first consisting of the shoulder and the neck and breast, the latter of the leg and the loin—as shown in the cut illustrative of mutton. As lamb, from the juicy nature of its flesh, is especially liable to spoil in unfavourable weather, it should be frequently wiped, so as to remove any moisture which may have formed on it.
Price of Meat.—In calculating the selling price of any meat, what is called the "offal," i.e., the skin and inside, are calculated into the price of the animal. The price of any commodity, and of meat dead or alive, may be seen quoted every day in the newspaper market lists; and it would be well if consumers studied and understood these a little better than is usually the case. Another fact they might learn with advantage is the difference of price between the best meat and the second or third quality. Very few persons eat always the best meat, for the reason that it is not sufficiently plentiful, and perhaps even fewer people pay second-best prices or expect to pay them.
As already pointed out, second quality meat does not necessarily mean unwholesome meat, or indeed worse meat than most people are contented with.
Season for Mutton.—Mutton is in season all the year round, different counties producing sheep for the market at various seasons; but just as beef is said to be in its prime when French beans are in, i.e., when the pastures are greenest and freshest, so mutton is in best condition when grass is plentiful, rather than when it is fattened entirely on roots and cake.
Mutton is often thought more digestible than beef, and is therefore prescribed for invalids, but a matter such as this must be decided by individual idiosyncrasy rather than rule. It is always thought to be less satisfying, and as it is impossible to buy a solid lump of boneless mutton, it is no doubt, on that account also, less economical.
Relative Cost.—In reckoning the cost of various joints as compared with one another, we have assumed that leg and loin are the same price, and that 18 ozs. of either can be bought for a shilling, and that the shoulder and best end of the neck are both sold at 20 ozs. (1¼ lb.) for a shilling. The loin has more bone than the leg, 3 ozs. instead of 2½ ozs. in each shilling's worth of meat, and the loin also is very fat, so that although it is nice it is not cheap. The shoulder has the same proportion of bone as the loin, and the neck most of all, 4 ozs. in every shilling's worth of meat, and is even fatter than the loin. Boiled or roasted, the neck is not a very cheap joint; but trimmed into cutlets, with all the fat removed, it is probably the dearest butchers' meat that can be eaten.
Competition remains at length between 15½ ozs. of leg against 17 ozs. of shoulder. The shoulder is fatter, it is true, and if it is sold at the same price as the leg, is dearer in every way. Sold at the price we have quoted, it appears to be as cheap as, or cheaper than, the leg if the fat is eaten. Children often dislike fat, and so it is cheaper to pay a little more for a lean joint for children. On the other hand, many people dislike a shoulder of mutton, and prefer a leg.
TABLE OF RELATIVE PRICES OF BEEF AND MUTTON.
At per Stone Wholesale, and per Pound Retail.
| Price per Stone | Mutton | Beef. | |||||||||||
| Third Quality | Second Quality | First Quality | Third Quality | Second Quality | First Quality | ||||||||
| s. | d. | s. | d. | s. | d. | s. | d. | s. | d. | s. | d. | s. | d. |
| 4 | 2 | 0 | 6¼ | 0 | 8¼ | 0 | 9¼ | 0 | 4¼ | 0 | 7¼ | 0 | 10¼ |
| 4 | 4 | 0 | 6½ | 0 | 8½ | 0 | 9½ | 0 | 4½ | 0 | 7½ | 0 | 10½ |
| 4 | 6 | 0 | 6¾ | 0 | 8¾ | 0 | 9¾ | 0 | 4¾ | 0 | 7¾ | 0 | 10¾ |
| 4 | 8 | 0 | 7 | 0 | 9 | 0 | 10 | 0 | 5 | 0 | 8 | 0 | 11 |
| 4 | 10 | 0 | 7¼ | 0 | 9¼ | 0 | 10¼ | 0 | 5¼ | 0 | 8¼ | 0 | 11¼ |
| 5 | 0 | 0 | 7½ | 0 | 9½ | 0 | 10½ | 0 | 5½ | 0 | 8½ | 0 | 11½ |
| 5 | 2 | 0 | 7¾ | 0 | 9¾ | 0 | 10¾ | 0 | 5¾ | 0 | 8¾ | 0 | 11¾ |
| 5 | 4 | 0 | 8 | 0 | 10 | 0 | 11 | 0 | 6 | 0 | 9 | 1 | 0 |
| 5 | 6 | 0 | 8¼ | 0 | 10¼ | 0 | 11¼ | 0 | 6¼ | 0 | 9¼ | 1 | 0¼ |
| 5 | 8 | 0 | 8½ | 0 | 10½ | 0 | 11½ | 0 | 6½ | 0 | 9½ | 1 | 0½ |
| 5 | 10 | 0 | 8¾ | 0 | 10¾ | 0 | 11¾ | 0 | 6¾ | 0 | 9¾ | 1 | 0¾ |
| 6 | 0 | 0 | 9 | 0 | 11 | 1 | 0 | 0 | 7 | 0 | 10 | 1 | 1 |
| 6 | 2 | 0 | 9¼ | 0 | 11¼ | 1 | 0¼ | 0 | 7¼ | 0 | 10¼ | 1 | 1¼ |
| 6 | 4 | 0 | 9½ | 0 | 11½ | 1 | 0½ | 0 | 7½ | 0 | 10½ | 1 | 1½ |
| 6 | 6 | 0 | 9¾ | 0 | 11¾ | 1 | 0¾ | 0 | 7¾ | 0 | 10¾ | 1 | 1¾ |
| 6 | 8 | 0 | 10 | 1 | 0 | 1 | 1 | 0 | 8 | 0 | 11 | 1 | 2 |
| 6 | 10 | 0 | 10¼ | 1 | 0¼ | 1 | 1¼ | 0 | 8¼ | 0 | 11¼ | 1 | 2¼ |
| 7 | 0 | 0 | 10½ | 1 | 0½ | 1 | 1½ | 0 | 8½ | 0 | 11½ | 1 | 2½ |
| 7 | 2 | 0 | 10¾ | 1 | 0¾ | 1 | 1¾ | 0 | 8¾ | 0 | 11¾ | 1 | 2¾ |
| 7 | 4 | 0 | 11 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 2 | 0 | 9 | 1 | 0 | 1 | 3 |
| 7 | 6 | 0 | 11¼ | 1 | 1¼ | 1 | 2¼ | 0 | 9¼ | 0 | 12¼ | 1 | 3¼ |
| 7 | 8 | 0 | 11½ | 1 | 1½ | 1 | 2½ | 0 | 9½ | 0 | 12½ | 1 | 3½ |
| 7 | 10 | 0 | 11¾ | 1 | 1¾ | 1 | 2¾ | 0 | 9¾ | 0 | 12¾ | 1 | 3¾ |
| 8 | 0 | 1 | 0 | 1 | 2 | 1 | 3 | 0 | 10 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 4 |
The prices of meat per pound, in relation to the market price per stone of 8 lb., may be calculated sufficiently near to give a tolerably correct idea what the buyer should pay for meat from different parts of the ox or sheep, according to the market price. The butcher pays a certain price per stone for the whole carcass; but as the different joints of the sheep or bullock differ considerably in quality, and are classed respectively as PRIME, MIDDLING and INFERIOR parts, the prices of the several parts are raised or lowered by the butcher, above or below the average market price per stone, so that all classes of purchasers may be suited, and the sale of all parts of the animals secured. Of course, the butcher takes care to regulate his prices so as to secure a remunerative profit on his outlay. Prime parts of beef are sirloins, ribs and rounds; of mutton, legs and loins. Middling pieces of beef are top ribs, back ribs, and silverside; of mutton, shoulders. Inferior pieces of beef are shins, brisket and flank, clod, or shoulder, sticking piece, or neck; of mutton, necks and breasts. The prices given in the table are such as would be paid for meat of the best quality. The table is constructed so as to range from 4s. 2d. to 8s. per stone inclusive at an increase of 2d. per stone, or 1¼d. per pound on the wholesale market prices.
The Mode of Slaughtering Sheep is, perhaps, as humane and expeditious a process as could be adopted to attain the objects sought; the animal being laid on its side in a sort of concave stool, the butcher, while pressing the body with his knee, transfixes the throat near the angle of the jaw, passing the knife between the windpipe and bones of the neck, thus dividing the jugulars, cartoids, and large vessels, death taking place very rapidly from the haemorrhage which follows.
Manner of Cutting up.—Almost every large city has a particular manner of cutting up, or, as it is called, dressing the carcass. In London this process is very simple, and as our butchers have found that much skewering back, doubling one part over another, or scoring the inner cuticle or fell, tends to spoil the meat and shorten the time it would otherwise keep, they avoid all such treatment. The sheep then is hung up and the carcass flayed (which operation is performed while yet warm). After separating the hind from the fore quarters, with eleven ribs to the latter, the quarters are usually subdivided in the manner shown in the accompanying illustration.
| Hind-Quarter. | Fore-Quarter. |
| 1. Leg. | 4. Best end of neck. |
| 2. Loin. | 5. Scrag end of neck. |
| 3. Chump end of loin. | 6 and 8. Shoulder and blade-bone. |
| 7. Breast. | |
(1) Leg.—This is the most economical joint for a family if it is sold, as is usual, at only one penny a pound more than the shoulder, for unless there is a considerable difference in price, it does not compensate for the greater proportion of bone in other joints. The leg of a sheep is roughly reckoned to weigh as many pounds as the whole sheep weighs in stones. Legs can be bought of all weights, from about 5 lb. to 6 lb. Mutton steaks are cut from the leg.
(2) Loin.—This is considered the best roasting joint. Two loins together make a saddle; rather a wasteful joint, because of the way it is carved. The upper part of the loin and leg together form a haunch. Chump chops are cut near the tail, where the proportion of bone is greater.
(3) Chump end of Loin.—Cut with the loins for a saddle, always roasted, or in chops for broiling.
(4) Best end of the Neck.—Roasting, boiling, or for mutton cutlets. Small mutton is best for cutlets.
(5) Scrag end of the Neck.—Broth, stews, or boiling. A low-priced joint, not very fat, but very bony and wasteful.
(6 and 8) Shoulder.—Often sold divided, for roasting. It is preferred by many persons to the leg, but is not so economical, and is fatter.
(7) Breast.—Often sold at a cheap rate for stewing or boiling. Too fat for many persons, but often economical.
Besides these joints, the following parts of the sheep are sold for food:—
(9) Head.—Sometimes sold with the pluck, but more often alone. Can be boiled, and made into most excellent broth—Scotch people generally use it for this—or braised, and is usually an economical dish, but its price varies very greatly.
(10) Heart.—Sometimes sold separately, and sometimes with the rest of the "pluck," consisting of liver, lights and heart. Sheep's liver can be fried or made into soup. The heart is best roasted. The whole of the pluck is frequently eaten. In Scotland it is made into "haggis." Probably the cheapest form of butcher's meat.
(11) Kidneys.—Broiled or stewed. A very common breakfast dish. The kidney is often sold with the loin.
(12) Feet, or "trotters," as they are generally called in London, where they are bought in the markets at 4 a penny, and after being cleaned and boiled are retailed at a halfpenny and a penny each. Seldom eaten in the south of England except by the very poor.
(13) Mutton suet is better than beef for frying, because it is less likely to burn, but it is not so good for puddings.
Mode of Cutting up Lamb.—Lamb, when large, is cut into the same joints as mutton; when small, it is sold in quarters; the leg and loin to the hind, and the shoulder, breast and neck to the fore-quarter.
Lambs' sweetbreads are considered a delicacy, and are expensive. Lambs' fry consists of the liver, sweetbread, some of the inside fat or "leaf," and the heart.
Lamb's kidney, lamb's head and lamb's trotters are also eaten. The fore-quarter of lamb is, by many persons, preferred; but the leg, here, as in mutton, is more economical. However, few persons eat lamb except as a luxury, and so questions of economy are more or less out of place.
A good deal of lamb is now imported from New Zealand, and is slightly cheaper than the home grown. The brand known as "Canterbury" is the best. Lamb is to be had in London from Christmas until late autumn. It is dear and scarce from January to March, gets cheaper through the summer months, from Easter to July or August; and late in the season, as far on as October, lamb is still sent southwards from Scotland.
All young meat is less nourishing, and is said to be less digestible than that which is full-grown; but lamb has a better reputation in this respect than veal.
Lamb should not be in the least high; and if, therefore, it has to be kept, it should be partly cooked, such being the most certain way to preserve it from taint.
TABLE OF THE RELATIVE VALUE OF VARIOUS PARTS OF MUTTON.
Mutton will be seen to waste more in cooking than other meats. Some of the larger joints are the cheapest, the saddle losing less than the loin, while the leg is one of the most economical.
| Name of Joint. | How usually cooked. | Weight before cooking. | Weight when cooked, bone and waste deducted. | Total loss per lb. | Average cost per lb. | Cost per lb. after cooking, bone and waste deducted. | ||||
| lb. | oz. | lb. | oz. | oz. | s. | d. | s. | d. | ||
| Breast | Roasted | 3 | 0 | 2 | 1 | 5 | 0 | 8 | 0 | 11½ |
| Chump chop | Grilled | 0 | 12 | 0 | 8¼ | 5 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 7 |
| Haunch | Roasted | 13 | 12 | 9 | 4 | 5¼ | 0 | 11 | 1 | 4½ |
| Head | Stewed | 2 | 8 | 1 | 4 | 8 | 0 | 5 | 0 | 10 |
| Heart | Baked | 1 | 0 | 0 | 14 | 2 | 0 | 9 | 0 | 10¼ |
| Kidneys | Grilled | 0 | 12 | 0 | 9 | 3 | 1 | 2 | 1 | 5¼ |
| Leg | Boiled | 10 | 0 | 7 | 0 | 4¾ | 0 | 10 | 1 | 2 |
| Leg | Roasted | 8 | 2 | 5 | 7 | 5¼ | 0 | 10 | 1 | 3 |
| Loin | Roasted | 5 | 13 | 4 | 0 | 5 | 0 | 10 | 1 | 2½ |
| Loin„ (chop) | Grilled | 0 | 12 | 0 | 8¾ | 4 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 5¼ |
| Neck (best end) | Boiled | 2 | 8 | 1 | 14 | 4 | 0 | 10 | 1 | 1¼ |
| Neck„ (scrag end) | Stewed | 1 | 12 | 0 | 14 | 8 | 0 | 7 | 1 | 2 |
| Saddle | Roasted | 10 | 4 | 7 | 12 | 3¾ | 0 | 10 | 1 | 1 |
| Shoulder | Roasted | 7 | 1 | 4 | 0 | 7 | 0 | 9 | 1 | 4 |
| Tongue | Boiled | 1 | 5 | 0 | 14 | 5 | 0 | 8 | 0 | 11½ |
Note.—For the purpose of the table the prices per lb. for head, heart, kidneys and tongue is given. These parts are, however, nearly always sold irrespective of weight, and the following are average prices:—Head, 8d. each; heart, 5d. (frozen), 1d. each; kidneys, 4d. (frozen), 1d. each; tongue, 4d. each.
By most butchers the shank-bone of a leg of mutton is weighed with the joint, the result being an increase of weight without value, but it is nevertheless an economical joint, as there is no waste in its carving, whereas against a loin must be reckoned the loss of meat left upon the bones, and that so often caused by an undue preponderance of fat.
TABLE GIVING WEIGHT OF BONE, SKIN, AND WASTE IN JOINTS OF MUTTON.
| Name of Joint. | Weight of joint when bought. | Weight of bone, skin and waste. | Loss of weight by cooking. | Total weight of waste. | Weight of eatable matter. | |||||
| lb. | oz. | lb. | oz. | lb. | oz. | lb. | oz. | lb. | oz. | |
| Huanch | 13 | 12 | 1 | 8 | 3 | 0 | 4 | 8 | 9 | 4 |
| Leg (boiled) | 10 | 0 | 1 | 6 | 1 | 10 | 3 | 0 | 7 | 0 |
| Leg„(roasted) | 8 | 2 | 1 | 7 | 1 | 4 | 2 | 11 | 5 | 7 |
| Loin | 5 | 13 | 0 | 12 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 13 | 4 | 0 |
| Saddle | 10 | 4 | 0 | 12 | 1 | 12 | 2 | 8 | 7 | 12 |
| Shoulder | 7 | 1 | 1 | 6 | 1 | 11 | 3 | 1 | 4 | 0 |
TABLE OF THE RELATIVE VALUE OF VARIOUS PARTS OF LAMB.
| Name of Joint. | How usually cooked. | Weight before cooking. | Weight when cooked, bone and waste deducted. | Total loss per lb. | Average cost, per lb., uncooked or raw. | Cost per lb. after cooking, bone and waste deducted. | ||||
| lb | oz. | lb | oz. | oz. | s. | d. | s. | d. | ||
| Breast | Stewed | 2 | 0 | 1 | 6 | 5 | 0 | 10 | 1 | 2½ |
| Fore-quarter | Roasted | 11 | 0 | 7 | 12 | 4 | 1 | 0 | 1 | 5 |
| Hind-quarter | Roasted | 9 | 0 | 7 | 4 | 3 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 4¼ |
| [1]Leg | Roasted | 4 | 8 | 2 | 12 | 5¼ | 1 | 1 | 1 | 9¼ |
| Loin | Roasted | 4 | 3 | 3 | 0 | 4½ | 1 | 0 | 1 | 4¾ |
| Neck (in cutlets | Fried | 1 | 3 | 0 | 9½ | 7 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 8 |
| Neck„ (scrag) | Stewed | 1 | 2 | 0 | 10 | 6 | 0 | 8 | 1 | 2¼ |
| Shoulder | Roasted | 4 | 5 | 2 | 11 | 5½ | 1 | 0 | 1 | 7 |
| Name of Joint. | Weight of joint when bought. |
Weight of bone, skin and waste. |
Loss of weight by cooking. |
Total weight of waste. |
Weight of eatable matter. | ||||||||||
| lb. | oz. | lb. | oz. | lb. | oz. | lb. | oz. | lb. | oz. | ||||||
| Breast | 2 | 0 | 0 | 8 | 0 | 2 | 0 | 10 | 1 | 6 | |||||
| Fore-quarter | 11 | 0 | 1 | 0 | 2 | 4 | 3 | 4 | 7 | 12 | |||||
| Hind-quarter | 9 | 0 | 0 | 8 | 1 | 5 | 1 | 12 | 7 | 4 | |||||
| Loin | 4 | 3 | 0 | 8 | 0 | 11 | 1 | 3 | 3 | 0 | |||||
| Leg | 4 | 8 | 0 | 13 | 0 | 15 | 1 | 12 | 2 | 12 | |||||
| Neck (in cutlets) | 1 | 3 | 0 | 6 | ½ | 0 | 3 | 0 | 9 | ½ | 0 | 9 | ½ | ||
| Neck„ (scrag) | 1 | 2 | 0 | 6 | ½ | 0 | 1 | ½ | 0 | 8 | 10 | ||||
| Shoulder | 4 | 5 | 0 | 13 | 0 | 13 | 1 | 10 | 2 | 11 | |||||
The prices given for lamb are those when it is in full season. In winter that called House Lamb is considerably dearer, and sometimes even till after Easter the price of lamb continues high.
- ↑ The foot being generally weighed with the Leg of Lamb, makes this joint an expensive one.