Mrs. Beeton's Book of Household Management/Chapter XXXIX
Instructions for Carving Fish, Meat, Poultry and Game.
It is to be feared that carving is an art to a great extent neglected in this country. This is a curious fact when considered in connexion with the great growth in the cult of the cuisine in England of late years, yet the conscientious historian of the habits of our times is compelled willy nilly to make the admission. It must be admitted that the modern fashion of serving à la Russe has to a large extent relieved the host and hostess from carving at dinner, but the art is still required at breakfasts, luncheons, and quiet family repasts. The real trouble is that the Englishman does not take the matter sufficiently seriously—passes it over as a mere mechanical and considerably boring accompaniment to a meal. This constitutes a grave error. To carve well is a graceful combination of science with art, and your true carver would carve symmetrically as well as economically even were he put in the position of dividing a sucking-pig between two. Considering how important and useful an accomplishment it is, one is astounded that more people do not make an effort to carve at least passably. The explanation, perhaps, lies in the fact that carving holds a place among those arts which every man is convinced he can practise better and more scientifically than any one else in the world!
How often, too, does one come across the man who grumbles at the cook when the real fault lies with him who cut the food! The greater number of those who dine in a first-rate restaurant and are pleased to pose as gourmets never in this respect appear willing to learn by experience or example, but quietly turn to their neighbour, and discuss the latest news, the weather, and their personal affairs, while the maître d'hôtel is giving an example of an art the acquisition of which has cost him the study of a lifetime and contains perhaps the secret of a great gastronomic success.
Without doubt the first carver of recent times was the late M. Joseph—proprietor of the Restaurant Marivaux, in Paris, and sometime director of the Savoy Restaurant, London.
CARVING No. 3.
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1. Sole. 2. Cod. 3. Plaice.
CARVING No. 4.
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1. Turbot. 2. Mackerel. 3. Salmon.
In his own restaurant every aid was given to obtain effect; the orchestra stopped dead, and taking his stand at the head of the room, the master sliced off joints, one after the other, with vigorous single cuts, holding the bird on a fork in his left hand. Lieut.-Col. Newnham Davis, in his Dinners and Diners gives an admirable idea of the effect produced by Joseph's carving when he says: "In an irreverent moment I was reminded of the Chinese torture of the Ling Chi, in which the executioner slashes at his victim without hitting a vital part in the first fifty cuts, as I watched Joseph calmly, solemnly, with absolute exactitude, cutting a duck to pieces with a long, thin knife."
It need hardly be here remarked that the ordinary amateur cannot be expected to attain the pre-eminence of a Joseph or a Ritz, but all will be well advised to learn at least how to carve some of the simpler dishes of everyday appearance in the average British household.
Truly the case of the man who is entirely ignorant of carving is parlous. We have all seen him, offering in an emergency to assist his hostess, and trying by mere physical force to overcome his lack of skill; with red face and perspiring forehead he hacks and tugs at the dish in front of him, and at every attempt the veins stand out more prominently in his head, while the face of his hostess grows graver each moment as she begins to realize the appalling fact that the dish will not go round. Hopelessly at sea, he shamefully mangles and hacks the joint or bird before him, serving slices ragged and torn, and accomplishing even this result so slowly that the dish is cold long before he has finished. And all this time his agony—especially if he be of a nervous temperament—is terrible to contemplate, and the inconvenience to those who witness it distressing in the extreme.
Besides this disadvantage of the more material kind, a bad carver is handicapped in the conversation of the table, in which he plays, or should play, an important part, for the post of carver has come to involve considerable social obligations, and implies that its holder should to some extent preside over the feast. Charles Lamb, in "Captain Jackson," has given us an example of the carver who, even though he had nothing or next to nothing to carve, yet contrived to make a meal—however slender—pleasant. "'Let us live while we can,' methinks I hear the open-hearted creature exclaim; 'While we have, let us not want'; 'Here is plenty left'; 'Want for nothing'—with many more such hospitable sayings, the spurs of appetite, and old concomitants of smoking boards and feast-oppressed chargers. Then sliding a slender ratio of Single Gloucester upon his wife's plate, or the daughter's, he would convey the remnant rind to his own, with a merry quirk of 'The nearer the bone,' etc., and declaring that he universally preferred the outside.... None but his guest or guests dreamed of tasting flesh luxuries at night—the fragments were vere hospitibus sacra. But of one thing or another there was always enough, and leavings, only he would sometimes finish the remainder crust, to show that he wished no savings." And who will say that he was not a good carver in the truest, fullest sense of the word? Would that more would imitate him!
The advantages of good carving are many, the chiefest being the ability to derive the best possible flavour from a dish, and at the same time to dispose of it in an economical manner. Your true artist cuts in such a way that every piece which he serves is sightly and palatable and does not contain a disproportionately large amount of fat. He has, too, a knowledge of the natural construction of various joints—a knowledge indispensable to all who wish to attain any proficiency in the art—and ensures that only the choicest cuts will be served.
The gourmet of to-day is too complex in his tastes, mixing many flavours and so losing the true significance of each, and it is therefore of the highest importance to avoid giving any one person two differently flavoured slices of the same joint.
Many people find it very difficult to learn to carve, but as a rule it is because they do not begin at the beginning. They try to cut up a bird without any idea of its anatomy, and to cut slices of meat without knowing how the grain goes or where to find the joints, if any, and they therefore cannot succeed. In the succeeding pages will be found full directions for carving fish, meat, poultry and game and accompanying illustrations to help out the instructions. A careful study of the same will prevent any one from making any grave error; but at the same time, as practice alone makes perfect, they should take all the opportunities of carving that come in their way, and when they see a good carver should watch his or her operations and take a lesson therefrom.
The sharpness of the knife is, of course, an important consideration, and it is well to have some idea of how to use a steel, though the operation is one rather for the workshop than the dinner-table, and should be performed before the meal by a servant; still, even servants are not perfect, so the would-be carver must be prepared for emergencies.
When carving a slice of meat, after the first incision has been made, the angle at which the knife is held must never be altered, or a jagged slice will be obtained. When the way to control the knife has been mastered, the keystone to successful carving has been acquired.
The cut should be direct, sharp, and incisive. A saw-like action should never enter into the operation.
Generally speaking, the knife should be held firmly, but it cuts best when applied lightly, and less gravy is squeezed from the meat when the pressure is slight. By using the point of the knife lightly as a wedge, and the fork as a lever, even a big turkey or goose may be easily jointed, provided the carver is aware exactly how the joint is situated and held together. Every assistance should be given the carver by providing him with a thin sharp-bladed knife of suitable size, and by serving whatever is to be carved on a dish large enough to allow the joint or bird to be turned to the most convenient position for the purpose. The dish should also afford space for carved portions, for an expert carver will, with a few strokes of the knife disjoint a bird, and usually prefers to do so before beginning to serve any part of it. Carving is always more easily and pleasantly performed when the dish contains neither gravy nor garnish.
A steel knife and fork should never be used for fish, because contact with this metal is apt to spoil its flavour, particularly with certain choice varieties which owe their excellence almost entirely to a delicate characteristic flavour that may be easily destroyed or overpowered. A silver or plated slice and fork should be provided for carving and serving it. When serving fish be careful not to break the flakes, which ought to be served as entire as possible, though short grained fish, such as salmon, should be cut lengthwise.
The carving of loins and necks of either veal, mutton, or lamb must in some measure be determined by the size of the joints, but if the butcher has separated the chine bone into narrow divisions, the carver should have no difficulty in cutting suitable portions. He can then cut between the bones, and each bone with meat attached should be of a convenient size for serving.
Some joints, such as the undercut of a sirloin of beef, or the knuckle end of a leg of mutton are best when eaten hot; others are equally good either hot or cold, but sometimes by using only one particular part the joint may present a better appearance when served cold. Thus, if the under side of either a shoulder or leg of mutton is cut without encroaching on the upper surface, when the joint is turned over it will have almost the appearance of an uncut one. Moreover, multiplied cut surfaces provide means of escape for the juices of the meat, and as a natural consequence leave a dry and flavourless cold joint. Meat should always be cut across the grain, the one exception to the rule being the saddle of mutton, which is nearly always carved at right angles to the rib bones, in slices running parallel with the fibres of grain of the meat. When the joint or bird is stuffed a little of the forcemeat should be served with each portion, and the same rule applies to the watercress used to garnish birds and the toast upon which many small birds are dished. The gravy may be poured over brown meats, but it should always be put at the side of chicken, veal and white meats.
Ham and beef should be carved into very thin slices, and mutton and pork into fairly thick ones. Joints that have to be carved should be served on dishes without any gravy or dressing.
2921.—TO SHARPEN THE CARVING KNIFE.
Hold the steel in the left hand, which should be on a level with the elbow, pointing the steel towards the right shoulder, and hold the knife, almost perpendicularly, in the right hand. Place the hilt of the knife's edge at the top of the steel, and draw the blade downwards the whole length of both steel and knife, first on one side and then on the other—i.e., so that the point of the knife finishes at the hilt of the steel. The blade should be almost flat on the steel, with the back slightly raised but with only the edge touching it.
Fish.
2922.—COD. (Carving Illustration No. 3, Fig. 2.)
Cut in fairly thick slices through to the centre bone and detach just above it.
Note.—Of this fish, the parts about the backbone and shoulders are the firmest, and most esteemed by connoisseurs. The sound, which lines the fish beneath the backbone, is considered a delicacy, as are also the gelatinous parts about the head and neck.
2923.—CRAB, TO DRESS. (Carving Illustration No 1.)
Lay the crab upon its back, and insert the fingers between the shell and the fish. Using the thumbs as levers, push the body away from the shell (Fig. 1). Break off the claws, remove the poisonous "fingers," from the body of the fish, cut away the sides of the "back" shell, and dress the crab in this part, without disturbing the contents. The "fingers" usually adhere to the belly of the crab. When cutting away the sides of the shell, run the knife along the joint line, which is easily discernible. To demonstrate this, the picture only shows one side cut away (Fig. 2).
2924.—EEL AND ALL FLAT FISH.
The thick part of the eel is reckoned the best; and this holds good of all flat fish.
2925.—LOBSTER, TO DRESS. (Carving Illustration No. 2.)
Insert the knife at the centre of the back, and cut through towards the tail (Fig. 1 ). Then turn the lobster round and cut through towards the nose (Fig. 2.) If this end is cut first the shell invariably breaks. Now remove the "brains" (Fig. 3). These are usually of a greenish colour and are found on either side of the lobster. Crack the claws with a hammer and arrange the fish on a dish, garnishing with fresh parsley. The tail of the lobster is the prime part and next to that the claws.
2926.—MACKEREL. (Carving Illustration No. 4, Fig. 2.)
First cut along the backbone of the fish. Then insert the fish-knife at this part and cut through, separating the upper half of the fish which CARVING No. 5.
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1. Sirloin of Beef (Uppercut). 2. Sirloin of Beef (Fillet). 3. Round of Beef.
CARVING No. 6.
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1. Calf's Head. 2. Aitchbone of Beef. 3. Ham.
may be divided; when the fish is of moderate size serve for two helpings only. Next remove the backbone, tail and head, and divide the lower half in the same way.
2927.—SALMON. (Carving Illustration No. 4, Fig. 3.)
First run the knife down the centre of the back and along the whole length of the fish. Then cut downwards from the backbone to the middle of the fish, cut through the centre and remove the piece from the back. Next cut the lower part of the fish in the same manner.
A slice of the thick part should always be accompanied by a smaller piece of the thin from the belly, where lies the fat of the fish.
Note.—Many persons, in carving salmon, make the mistake of slicing the thick part of this fish in the direction opposite to that we have shown, and thus, by the breaking of the flakes, the beauty of its appearance is destroyed.
2928.—SOLE, BOILED OR FRIED. (Carving Illustration No. 3, Fig. 1.)
The usual way of helping this fish is to cut it quite through, bone and all, distributing it in nice and not too large pieces. The guests should be asked which part they prefer. The middle part is generally thought better than either head or tail. The head should be cut off, not laid on a guest's plate.
In helping filleted soles, one fillet is given to each person.
2929.—PLAICE. (Carving Illustration No. 3, Fig. 3.)
First run the knife down the centre of the fish. Then cut downwards (only through to the bone) and remove portions in the manner shown in the illustration. Next take away the backbone and head of the fish, and treat the lower half in the same way.
2930.—TURBOT. (Carving Illustration No. 4, Fig. 1.)
First run the fish-slice down the thickest part of the fish, quite through to the bone, and then cut slices towards the sides of the fish and upwards as shown in the engraving. When the carver has removed all the meat from the upper side of the fish, the backbone should be raised, and the under side helped as the upper.
Note.—The thick parts of the middle of the back are the best slices in a turbot; and the rich gelatinous skin covering the fish, as well as a little of the thick part of the fins, are dainty morsels, and small portions should be on each plate.
2931.—BRILL AND JOHN DORY.
These are carved in the same manner as a turbot. Of the latter the head is the best part.
2932.—WHITING, HADDOCK, ETC.
Whiting, pike, haddock and similar fish, when of sufficiently large size, may be carved in slices from each side of the backbone in the same manner as salmon; each fish serving for four or more slices. When small, they may be cut through, bone and all, and helped in nice pieces. A small whiting is served whole; a middle-sized fish in two pieces.
Beef
2933.—AITCHBONE OF BEEF. (Carving Illustration No. 6, Fig. 2.)
A boiled aitchbone of beef is a very simple joint to carve, as will be seen on reference to the illustration which clearly shows how this should be treated. Cut nice thin slices.
2934.—BRISKET OF BEEF.
But little description is necessary to show how a boiled brisket of beef is carved. The point to be observed is that the joint should be cut evenly and firmly quite across the bones, in slices the whole width of the joint, so that on its re-appearance at table it should not have a jagged and untidy look.
2935.—BEEF TONGUE.
Cut nearly through across the tongue at the thick part and then serve a fairly thick slice. The carving may be continued in this way towards the point until the best portions of the upper side are served. The fat which lies about the root of the tongue can be served by turning it over.
2936.—RIBS OF BEEF. (Carving Illustration No. 5, Fig. 1.)
This dish resembles the sirloin, except that it has no fillet or undercut. The mode of carving is similar to that of the upper cut of the sirloin, viz., cut in slices off the sides, starting at the thick end and through to the other, as shown in Carving Illustration No. 5, Fig. 1. This joint will be the more easily cut if before commencing to carve it into slices the knife is inserted immediately between the bone and the meat.
2937.—SIRLOIN OF BEEF. (Carving Illustration No. 5, Figs, 1 and 2.)
This dish is served differently at various tables, some preferring it to come to table with the fillet, or, as it is usually called, the undercut, uppermost (see Fig. 2). The reverse way, as shown in the first illustration, is that most usually adopted. Still the undercut is one of the primest parts of beef and is best eaten when hot; consequently, the carver himself may raise the joint, and cut some fairly thick slices out of the under side, in the manner shown in Fig. 2. The upper part of the sirloin should be cut in the direction that the knife is travelling in Fig. 1, and care should be taken to carve it evenly and in thin slices. In carving this joint, the knife should be first inserted just above the bone at the bottom, and run sharply along between the bone and meat, and also to divide the meat from the bone in the same way at the side of the joint. The slices will then come away more readily.
2938.—ROUND OF BEEF. (Carving Illustration No. 5, Fig. 3.)
A round of beef, or ribs rolled, are not so easily carved as some joints, and to manage properly, a thin-bladed and very sharp knife is necessary. Off the outside of the joint, at its top, a thick slice should first be cut, so as to leave the surface smooth; then thin and even slices should be carved as shown in the illustration.
Veal.
2939.—BREAST OF VEAL.
The breast of veal consists of two parts—the rib-bones and the gristly brisket. These two parts should first be separated by sharply passing the knife through the centre of the joint; when they are entirely divided, the rib-bones should each be detached separately and served. The brisket can be helped by cutting pieces from the centre part of the joint. The carver should ask the guests whether they have a preference for the brisket or ribs.
2940.—FILLET OF VEAL.
The carving of this joint is similar to that of a round of beef. Slices, not too thick, are cut; and the only point to be careful about is, that the veal be evenly carved. Between the flap and the meat the stuffing is inserted, and a small portion of this should be served to every guest. The persons whom the host wishes most to honour should be asked if they like the brown outside slice, as this, by many, is exceedingly relished.
2941.—KNUCKLE OF VEAL.
This is carved in the same manner as leg of mutton. (See illustration No. 7, Fig. 1) which sufficiently indicates the direction which should be given to the knife. The best slices are those from the thickest part of the knuckle, that is the part where fork is shown in the illustration.
2942.—LOIN OF VEAL.
As is the case with a loin of mutton, the careful jointing of a loin of veal is more than half the battle in carving it. The butcher should be warned to carefully attend to this, for there is nothing more annoying or irritating to an inexperienced carver than to be obliged to turn his knife in all directions to find the exact place where it should be inserted in order to divide the bones. When jointing is properly performed, there is little difficulty in carrying the knife across and separating each chop. To each guest should be given a piece of the kidney and kidney-fat, which lie underneath, and are considered great delicacies.
2943.—CALF'S HEAD. (Carving Illustration No. 6, Fig. 1.)
A calf's head is nearly always boned before serving, and is then cut into slices like any other boned and rolled joint, but the illustration shows the method of carving when the bones have not been removed. Cut strips from the ear to the nose; with each of these should be helped a piece of what is called the throat sweetbread, cut in semi-circular form from the throat part. The eye, and the flesh round, are favourite morsels with many, and should be given to those at the table who are known to be the greatest connoisseurs. The jawbone being removed, there will then be found some nice lean; and the palate, which is reckoned by some a tit-bit, lies under the head. On a separate dish there is always served the tongue and brains, and each guest should be asked to take some of these.
Mutton and Lamb.
2944.—FORE-QUARTER OF LAMB. (Carving Illustration No. 8, Figs. 2 and 3.)
In carving a fore-quarter of lamb, the separation of the shoulder from the breast is the first point to be attended to; this is done in the manner shown in Fig. 2, and then, by raising with a little force the shoulder, into which the fork should be firmly fixed, it will come away with just a little more exercise of the knife. In dividing the shoulder and breast the carver should take care not to cut away too much of the meat from the latter, as that would rather spoil its appearance when the shoulder is removed. Unless the whole of the quarter is to be cut up, the shoulder should be transfered to another dish and put aside to be served cold. The joint is then ready to be served to the guests; cutlets are carved from the ribs in the manner shown in Fig. 3, and the shoulder is carved in the usual manner. (See illustration No. 7, Figs. 2 and 3). When the shoulder is being used, the carver may ask those at the table which parts they prefer, ribs, brisket, or a piece of shoulder, or he may serve a piece of shoulder and a cutlet in each portion.
CARVING No. 7.
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1. Leg of Mutton. 2. Shoulder of Mutton. 3. Shoulder of Mutton.
CARVING No. 8.
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1. Saddle of Mutton. 2. Forequarter of Lamb. 3. Forequarter of Lamb.
2945.—LEG OF MUTTON. (Carving Illustration No. 7, Fig. 1.)
This joint is almost invariably carved in the manner shown in the engraving. The carving of it is not very difficult; the knife should be carried sharply down, and slices taken from either side, as the guests may desire, some liking the knuckle-end as well done, and others preferring the more underdone part. The fat should be sought near the bottom corner of the thick end.
2946.—LOIN OF MUTTON.
There is one point in connection with carving a loin of mutton which is necessary with all other similar joints; that is, that it should be thoroughly well jointed by the butcher. This task is frequently imperfectly performed; therefore it is advisable to examine the loin before cooking it, and carefully joint any part that has been neglected. The knife should be inserted in the thick side of the joint, and after feeling a way between the bones, it should be carried sharply through, separating the chop in the same manner. As there are some people who prefer the outside cut, while others do not like it, they should be questioned as to their choice.
2947.—SADDLE OF MUTTON. (Carving Illustration No. 8, Fig. 1.)
In order of excellence the saddle of mutton may be said to rank first. It consists of two loins connected by the spinal bone. The method adopted in carving this joint is, contrary to the general rule of cutting across the grain; in this case, the meat is carved across the ribs, in slices running parallel with the backbone and the fibres or grain of the meat. The illustration clearly shows what is meant. Each long slice should be cut across into two or three pieces, according to its length; and with each portion is usually served a small piece of fat cut from the bottom of the ribs where the joint rests on the dish, and some good gravy. Red currant jelly is served separately
2948.—SHOULDER OF MUTTON. (Carving Illustration No. 7, Figs. 2 and 3.)
The joint should be raised from the dish and as many slices cut away as can be taken in the manner shown in Fig. 2; afterwards the meat lying on either side of the bladebone should be served, by carving from the knuckle end. The uppermost side of the shoulder being now finished, the joint should be turned, and slices taken off along its whole length. There are some who prefer the underside of the shoulder for its juicy flesh, although the grain of the meat is not so fine as that on the other side, and this is served in the manner shown in Fig. 3.
Pork.
2949.—SUCKING-PIG.
A sucking-pig seems, at first sight, an elaborate dish, or rather animal, to carve; but, by carefully mastering the details of the business, every difficulty will vanish; and if a partial failure be at first made, yet all embarrassment will quickly disappear on a second trial. A sucking-pig is usually sent to table split in half and the head separated from the body. The first point to be attended to is to separate the shoulder from the carcase, which is done in the same way that the shoulder of a forequarter of lamb is separated. The next step is to take off the leg; and this is done in the same way. The ribs then stand fairly open to the knife, and two or three helpings will dispose of these. The other half of the pig is served, of course, in the same manner. Different parts of the pig are variously esteemed; some preferring the flesh of the neck; others the ribs, and others, again, the shoulders. The truth is, the whole of a sucking-pig is delicious, delicate eating; but, in carving it, the host should consult the various tastes and fancies of his guests, keeping the larger joints generally for the gentlemen of the party.
2950.—HAM. (Carving Illustration No. 6, Fig. 3.)
In cutting a ham, the carver must be guided according as he desires to practise economy, or have, at once, fine slices out of the prime part. Under the first supposition, he will commence at the knuckle end, and cut off thin slices towards the thick part of the ham, slanting the knife from the thick part to the knuckle. To reach the choicer portion, the knife, which must be very sharp and thin, should be carried quite down to the bone, at the centre of the ham, which is then carved in the manner shown in the illustration. A ham, either hot or cold, is sent to table with a paper ruffle round the knuckle.
2951.—LEG OF PORK.
This joint, which is such a favourite one with many people, is easy to carve. The knife should be carried sharply down to the bone, clean through the crackling, in exactly the same manner as that described for leg of mutton. Sage and onion and apple sauce are usually sent to table with this dish—sometimes the leg of pork is stuffed—and the guests should be asked if they will have either or both. A frequent plan, and we think a good one, is now pursued of sending sage and onion to table separately from the joint, as it is not everybody to whom the flavour of this stuffing is agreeable.
2952.—LOIN OF PORK.
As with a loin of mutton, it is essential a loin of pork should be properly jointed before cooking, and the crackling must be scored. These points being attended to, there is no difficulty in carving the joint, which is divided into neat and even chops.
Note.—The other dishes of pork do not call for any special remarks as to their carving or helping.
Poultry.
2953.—ROAST DUCK. (Carving Illustration No. 9, Fig. 3.)
No dishes require so much knowledge and skill in carving as game and poultry, for it is necessary to be well acquainted with the anatomy of the bird and animal in order to place the knife at exactly the proper point. A young duck or duckling is carved in the same manner as a chicken. First remove the wings, then the breast should be cut off the bone in one slice or several slices if very plump. The legs are next removed and divided at the joints; and unless a contrary request has been made by the person for whom the portion is intended, the foot and the bone to which it is attached, should be cut off before serving. When stuffing has been introduced, the skin should be cut across and the farce scooped out with a spoon. As to the prime parts of a duck, "the wings of a flyer and the legs of a swimmer" are generally considered the best portions.
2954.—BOILED FOWL. (Carving Illustration No. 10, Figs. 2 and 3.)
Though the legs of a boiled fowl are hidden beneath the skin, the method of carving is not affected, and the following directions may be applied to birds either roasted or boiled. The fork should be inserted firmly in the breast of the bird, and with a sharp knife a downward cut made between the thigh and the body, after which an outward turn of the blade of the knife usually detaches the leg sufficiently to allow the joint connecting it to the body to be easily severed. With the fork still inserted in the breast, the next step should be to remove the wings. In doing this a good carver will contrive by cutting widely, but not deeply, over the adjacent part of the breast, to give to the wing the desired shape without depriving the breast of much of its flesh. When carving a large fowl the breast may be sliced, otherwise it should be separated from the back by cutting through the rib-bones, the only difficulty in carving this part being the small hinge-bones near the neck. The breast should be cut across in half, thus providing two portions, to which may be added, when a larger helping is desired, a slice off the thigh. Cut lengthwise into rather thin slices, the legs may be satisfactorily disposed of even when those to be served consist of persons to whom a whole leg could not be offered. To conclude the carving, the back should be turned over with the-cut side to the dish, and if the knife be pressed firmly across the centre of it, and the neck raised at the same time with the fork, the back is easily dislocated about the middle. To remove the sockets of the thigh-joints (the side-bones to which is attached choice morsels of dark-coloured flesh) the tail part of the back must be stood on end, and held firmly by means of the fork, while the bones are cut off on either side. The more highly esteemed parts of a fowl are the breast, wings and merrythought; the thigh may be served to a gentleman, but the drum sticks should be put aside, and used afterwards in some way that necessitates the flesh being minced.
A fowl when boned and stuffed, is usually cut across in slices.
2955.—ROAST FOWL. (Carving Illustration No. 10, Fig. 1.)
Fowls, when roasted, are carved in exactly the same manner as when boiled, therefore the foregoing directions and illustrations render it unnecessary to describe the operation again. When the liver and gizzard have been trussed and cooked with the fowl, the wing to which the liver is attached may be regarded as the choice portion of the bird, and should be offered to the person entitled to the most consideration in this respect. When the fowl is stuffed, a little forcemeat should be served with each portion, but when convenient, it is better to hand the gravy and bread sauce separately.
2956.—ROAST GOOSE.
The breast of a goose is the part most esteemed, therefore when the bird is larger than is necessary to meet the requirements of one meal, it frequently happens that the carving is confined solely to the breast. The carver should, however, consult the tastes of those he is serving with reference to choice of parts, for the leg is sometimes preferred. A large number of slices may be cut off the breast, and as the wing is the part least esteemed, the flesh of the upper part of it may with advantage be included in the slices cut from the breast. When onion farce has been employed it is advisable to ascertain if it be agreeable to the taste of the person for whom the portion of goose is intended, for so many dislike the farce itself, although they may like the flavour imparted to the bird by its use. The directions given for carving a boiled fowl may be applied here, although greater force will most probably be required in detaching the various parts. When the goose is stuffed with onion farce it is nearly always accompanied by apple sauce and gravy, both of which should, when convenient, be handed separately.
CARVING No. 9.
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1. Roast Turkey. 2. Roast Turkey. 3. Roast Duck.
CARVING No. 10.
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1. Roast Fowl. 2. Boiled Fowl. 3. Boiled Fowl.
2957.—ROAST TURKEY. (Carving Illustration No. 9, Figs, 1 and 2.)
A small turkey may be carved in the same manner as a large fowl, (see directions for carving the same); and no bird is more easily carved than a large turkey, for the breast alone may, when properly carved, be made to serve a large number of persons. If more meat is required than the breast provides, the upper part of the wing should be served. When it is necessary for the legs to be carved, they should be severed from the body and then cut into slices. The forcemeat in the crop of the bird should be carved across in thin slices; and when the body is stuffed, the apron should be cut across.
A boiled turkey is carved in the same manner as when roasted.
2958.—PIGEON.
A very straightforward plan is adopted in carving a pigeon; the knife is carried entirely through the centre of the bird, cutting it into two precisely equal and similar parts. If it is necessary to make three pieces of it, a small wing should be cut off with the leg on either side, thus serving two guests; and, by this means, there will be sufficient meat left on the breast to send to the third guest.
2959.—RABBITS.
In carving a boiled rabbit, the knife should be drawn on each side of the backbone, the whole length of the rabbit, thus separating the rabbit into three parts. Now divide the back into two equal parts, then let the leg be taken off, and next the shoulder. This, in our opinion, is an easy way to carve a rabbit, although there are other modes equally practical.
A roast rabbit is rather differently trussed from one that is meant to be boiled; but the carving is nearly similar. The back should be divided into as many pieces as it will give, and the legs and shoulders can then be disengaged in the same manner as those of the boiled animal.
Game.
2960.—BLACKCOCK.
The brains of this bird are highly esteemed by many, and for this reason the the head is frequently trussed on one side of the bird, but this is entirely a matter of choice. The method of carving blackcock is identical with that for Boiled Foul. The breast and the thigh are the only parts esteemed; the latter may be cut lengthwise into thin slices, or served whole.
2961.—WILD DUCK.
As game is almost universally served as a dainty, and not as a dish to stand the assault of an altogether fresh appetite, these dishes are not usually cut up entirely, but only those parts are served of each which are considered the best flavoured and the primest. Of wild fowl, the breast alone is considered by epicures worth eating, and slices are cut; if necessary, the leg and wing can be taken off by generally following the directions described for carving boiled fowl.
2962.—ROAST HARE. (Carving Illustration No. 11, Figs, 1, 2 and 3.)
Place the hare on the dish with the head at the left hand. Make an incision, and cut along the spinal bone from about the centre of the back to the end. Then cut through the side and middle, and remove the portion shown in Fig 1. The part it is removed from is more clearly seen in Fig 2. Then cut off the hind leg in the manner shown in Fig 2, and afterwards the foreleg or wing, as Fig 3. It is the usual plan not to serve any bone in helping hare; and thus the flesh should be sliced from the legs and placed alone on the plate. In large establishments, and where men cooks are kept, it is often the case that the backbone of the hare, especially in old animals, is taken out, and then the process of carving is, of course, considerably facilitated. A great point to be remembered in connection with carving hare is, that plenty of gravy should accompany each helping; otherwise this dish, which is naturally dry, will lose half its flavour, and so become a failure. Stuffing is also served with it; and the ears, which should be nicely crisp, and the brains of the hare, are esteemed as delicacies by many.
2963.—GROUSE.
Grouse may be carved in the way first described in carving partridge. The backbone of the grouse is highly esteemed by many, and this part of many game birds is considered to possess the finest flavour.
2964.—PARTRIDGES.
There are several ways of carving this bird. The usual method is to carry the knife sharply along the top of the breastbone and cut it quite through, thus dividing the bird into two equal parts. When smaller portions are desired the bird is sometimes divided into three parts. The legs and wings may be easily severed from the body in the manner described for boiled fowl, while the breast, of removed intact, will provide a third helping. Another easy and expeditious way of carving birds of this description is to cut them through the bones lengthwise and across, thus forming four portions. A piece of toast should accompany each portion of bird; sometimes the fried breadcrumbs, bread sauce and gravy are added by the carver, but it is much better to hand them separately.
CARVING No. 11.
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Roast Hare.
ENTRÉES.
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1. Ragoût of Veal. 2. Mutton Cutlets with Cauliflower. 3. Tournedos of Beef with Stuffed Olives.
2965.—PHEASANT.
The choice parts of a pheasant are the breast and wings. The various members of the bird are severed from the body in exactly the same manner as those of a roast or boiled fowl, and to avoid repetition the reader is referred to those directions on pp. 1269–1270.
2966.—SNIPE.
One of these small but delicious birds may be given whole to a gentleman; but in helping a lady, it will be better to cut them quite through the centre, completely dividing them into equal and like portions, and put only one half on the plate.
2967.—HAUNCH OF VENISON.
A carver of average ability will have little or no difficulty in cutting up this joint. An incision being made completely down to the bone, the gravy will then be able easily to flow; when slices, not too thick, should be cut along the haunch, the thick end of the joint having been turned towards the carver, so that he may have a more complete command over the joint. Although some epicures are of opinion that some parts of the haunch are better than others, yet we doubt if there is any difference between the slices cut above and below the incision that the carver makes. Each guest should be served with a portion of fat; and the most expeditious carver is the best carver, as, like mutton, venison soon begins to chill, when it loses much of its excellence.
2968.—WOODCOCK.
This bird, like a partridge, may be carved by cutting it exactly into two like portions, or made into three helpings, as described in carving partridge. The backbone is considered the tit-bit of a woodcock, and by many the thigh is also thought a great delicacy. This bird is served in the manner advised by Brillat Savarin in connection with the pheasant—viz., on toast which has received its dripping whilst toasting; and a piece of this toast should invariably accompany each plate.
2969.—LANDRAIL.
Landrail, being trussed like Snipe, with the exception of its being drawn, may be carved in the same manner.
Ortolans are usually helped whole, but may be divided for ladies. (See Snipe.)
2970.—PTARMIGAN.
Ptarmigan may be carved in the same way as Grouse and Partridge.
2971.—QUAILS.
Quails, being trussed and served like woodcock, may be similarly carved.
2972.—PLOVERS.
Plovers may be carved like quails or woodcock, being trussed and served in the same way as those birds.
Teal and Widgeon. Both these birds are trussed and served like Wild Duck, and should be similarly carved.