Oregon Historical Quarterly/Volume 15/Number 2

THE QUARTERLY

of the

Oregon Historical Society

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Copyright, 1914, by Oregon Historical Society
The Quarterly disavows responsibility for the positions taken by contributors to its pages

MEMORIAL ADDRESS

Commemorating Life, Character and Services of Francis Xavier Matthieu^[1]

By Charles B. Moores.

One year ago today upon these grounds, there appeared for the last time the sole survivor of a group of 102 men who, 70 years before, had laid here the foundation of a new State. Burdened with the weight of 95 years he was yet a keenly alive, and a happy, and a thoroughly interested participant. For years it had been his wont to celebrate with us each recurring anniversary of this occasion. Today his chair is vacant, and never again will we be cheered with the genial presence of the kindly old man to whom we delighted to pay the respectful homage that was his due. A tribute to his memory can be but little more than the repetition of a story that is familiar to every student of Oregon pioneer history.

Francis Xavier Matthieu was born at Terrebonne, near Montreal, Canada, on the second day of April, 1818. He died at his home near Butteville, Oregon, on February 4th, 1914, lacking less than two months of being 96 years of age. His father and mother were both of pure French descent. His father was a native of Normandy, his mother of Brittany. Both branches early migrated to Canada. When a mere slip of a boy he became a clerk in a mercantile house of Montreal.

74 CHARLES. B. MOORES

It was at that critical time in the history of Canada when Louis J. Papineau, a statesman and orator of wonderful elo- quence, was stirring the French population to resist the ag- gressions of their British rulers. Under the spell of Papineau's eloquence, and moved by a keen sense of the wrongs of the French, Matthieu, boy that he was, soon found himself en- rolled as a member, and an officer, of the "Sons of Liberty," organized for resistance to the constituted authorities.

The incipient rebellion was short-lived. Matthieu's brief career in Canada ended in 1838 when, with the assistance of Dr. Fraser, an uncle of Dr. John McLoughlin, he was enabled to cross the border and enter the United States under a forged passport. Reaching Albany, N. Y., he found employment as a clerk. Later he went to Milwaukee, and thence to St. Louis, where he found service with the American Fur Company. His employment carried him as a trader among the Sioux and the Dakotas. Returning to St. Louis he outfitted as a free trapper and in 1840 went to the Arkansas at Bent's Fort, where he encountered Kit Carson and George Bent, the trapper captain.

The following Winter and Spring were spent trapping in the Black Hills. This life, however, did not appeal to him, and early in the Summer of 1842, at Fort Laramie, the opportunity offered to join Captain Hastings' Company of over 100 emi- grants bound for Oregon, among whom were Dr. Elijah White, A. L. Lovejoy, Medorem Crawford, Sidney W. Moss and others who were afterwards prominent in Oregon pioneer his- tory. Mr. Matthieu's familiarity with the language and the peculiarities of the Sioux made him an invaluable member of this company. After varied experiences, the farm of Dr. Whit- man at Waiilatpu was reached and 15 days were there pleas- antly spent in his companionship. The trip over the Cascades, after this visit, was the most trying and difficult of the entire journey. Oregon City was reached about the 25th day of September, 1842.

Learning there that there was a settlement of French Canadians about 15 miles up the Willamette Valley, near Champoeg, Mr. Matthieu continued his journey to this his

MEMORIAL ADDRESS FOR F. X. MATTHIEU 75

toric point, and here he made his home almost continuously, for the ensuing 72 years of his life. Here he met and secured employment from Etienne Lucier, who was to share with him, in the following year, the honor of settling for all time the question of American sovereignty in the Northwest. Here was a location that had been selected by Dr. John McLoughlin in 1830 as a strategic trading point for the Hudson Bay Com- pany. Lucier had settled in this locality about 30 years prior to Matthieu's arrival. He was one of the old trappers who had come in Hunt's party, the overland exploration party of the Astor Expedition. Having reached the age of 60 years he had the Hudson Bay Company trapper's suspicions of the tyrannous exactions of American laws and customs, suspicions that were generally entertained by the French-Canadians of the Valley.

The leaven of unrest, however, was already working among the people of the Willamette Valley. Their 'necessities called for some kind of an organization. Opinion was divided. Some desired American control, some British control, and some were insistent upon an entirely independent government. The im- mediate formation of a provisional government did not appeal to either Jason Lee or to Abernethy, who was later Provisional Governor, and it had the open opposition of the Canadian- French who held preliminary meetings in opposition at Van- couver, at Oregon City, and on the French Prairie. The sub- ject of a provisional government was diplomatically approached at two meetings held in February and March, 1843, ostensibly called for the adoption of some measures to protect their flocks and herds from wild animals. These were known as "Wolf meetings." Mr. Matthieu attended neither of them. Their culmination, and at least a partial consummation, of their real object, a provisional governme'nt, was reached at the historic meeting of May 2, 1843.

The story of that meeting has become an Oregon classic. Champoeg means as much to the history of Oregon as does the story of Plymouth Rock to the history of New England. It is a singular, and rather significant, fact that McLoughlin and Lee, the two chief figures of the time in the Northwest, were both absent, and it seems to be an open question as to whether they were absent by accident or design. That was the one crucial and pregnant occasion of our early day history. There are some reasons to believe that Dr. McLoughlin, in spite of his relationship to the Hudson Bay Company, desired an inde- pendent government, and that Jason Lee regarded the move- ment as premature, while really favoring the American con- tention. There was no lack, however, of the presence of men bearing names that are familiar to the pages of the pioneer history of the state. It seems a far cry, back to that beautiful May morning in 1843, when that rugged and motley band of frontiersmen gathered here at this romantic spot, on the banks of the Wil- lamette, of whose varied beauties Sam L. Simpson has so sweetly sung. Little conception had they of the import and vast possibilities involved in the action to be taken by them on that day, and it is even yet difficult to estimate how much their decision has affected the historical currents of the world. The scene was one to challenge the highest talent of the historical painter and the story is one worthy the loftiest periods of an epic poet. These men were the vanguard of the millions who have since followed in their footsteps, and of the multiplied millions who are yet to come. Here was the frontier, thousands of miles from the western borderland of civiliza- tion-the northwest corner of a new and an undiscovered continent. The richest half of what we know as the American continent was theirs. In all that vast empire, stretching from the Mississippi to the Pacific, now teeming with its millions of souls, and its billions of wealth, there was hardly a home, or a school, or a church, or an orchard, or a grain field, or a solitary mile of railroad. No richer prize ever greed of man. No greater empire ever asked the taking. They stood at the very dawn of two generations of time whose marvelous achievements had never been matched in any pre- ceding thousand years. mpted the Digitized by Microsoft®

MEMORIAL ADDRESS FOR F. X. MATTHIEU 77

It was their high good fortune to face an opportunity that is seldom offered in the history of any nation. It was a call, not so much for men of talent, as men of purpose, fitted for taking the raw material that frontier conditions provide and moulding it into form. The black frock coats of Gray and Parrish, of Griffin and Beers, of Willson, Babcock and Hines, contrasted no less strangely with the buckskin suits of Meek and Newell and Ebbert, than did their habits, their ideals, and their life purposes. But they were as one in their impulses, and their conceptions of the orderly forms, that were needed to promote the commo'n good. Political opinions, considered in the narrow party sense, did not divide them.

Such differences as existed were based upon various social and moral conditions, and their respective national, religious and commercial affiliations. Any ordinary public hall would have housed the whole American population the'n living in the western half of the continent. The American population at the beginning of 1842 was 137, including women and children, although this number was almost doubled by the end of the year. Of the 102 men who voted at the meeting of May 2, 1843, the 50 who voted against organization were all of the Catholic faith, and of French or French-Canadian descent, whose relations to Dr. McLoughlin and the Hudson Bay Com- pany were such as to make it almost a duty to take the stand they did.

For their course there cari be no reasonable word of censure. The sincerity of their motives is not open to question. Of the 52 men who took the American side when Joe Meek dramatically called for a divide, five including Matthieu and Lucier, were of the Catholic faith, four were Baptists, six Congregationalists, six Episcopalians, eight Presbyterians and fourteen Methodists, while the affiliation of nine are unknown. Five were natives of England, two of Scotland, one of Ire- land, two, Matthieu and Lucier, of Canada, one each of Ala- bama, North Carolina and the District of Columbia, three each of Ohio and New Hampshire, four each of Connecticut, Massachusetts and Pennsylvania, ten of New York, and six unknown.

78 CHARLES B. MOORES

With possibly three exceptions, Matthieu was the youngest man of the group. His was not a chance, or accidental vote. It was the vote of a man of decision and of character. He was but 25 years of age, but a mature man in experience. His vote was the vote of one who was at once a Fre'nch fugi- tive, and a British alien. He carried with him, boy that he was, the vote of his friend, Etienne Lucier, a mature man of 60 years, and he carried it in the face of his friendship for his ideal, Dr. McLoughlin, and against the judgment of the majority of his friends of the Catholic faith, and his French- Canadian countrymen. In that vote there was some indication of the character of the man.

For a full 71 years he went in and out among his fellow men in this community, where in early manhood he cast his fortunes, and during all those years he measured up to the requirements of that standard of citizenship which is the very foundation of a'n ideal commonwealth. Although without political ambition, he was a man of public spirit, and, although a member of the minority party, served his fellow citizens of this county as commissioner, and as a member of the Oregon House of Representatives at the sessions of 1874 and 1878. He was one of the founders, and the first president, of the Oregob State Pioneer Association, chosen at a time when the pioneer element was the dominant element of the state, and the best blood of the Association was subject to call. In 1846 he secured the donation claim that for the remaining 62 years of his life was his continuous home. He was married April 15, 1846, to Rose Osant, whose father, Louis Osant, had been a Hudson Bay Company employe and trapper, and who was one of the 50 arrayed against him at the meeting of May 2, 1843. His relationship to that meeting, and conditions that later existed, have given to F. X. Matthieu a peculiar distinc- tion. It was a close vote, and a chance friendship, that gave to him, and to Lucier, the opportunity to forever fix the polit- ical status of a great state a group of states to change the currents of the world's history, the destiny of a nation, and the individual destinies of millions of men. Had the vote and

MEMORIAL ADDRESS FOR F. X. MATTHIEU 79

the influence of these two men been cast, on that crucial day, in favor of British domination, the Oregon Country would have been lost to the flag.

What then of the map, and of the history of the Pacific Coast, and the Middle West? Who would now be harvesting the rich treasures of Alaska, and who would now be building the great waterway that is to divide the continent? Not only did the participants have little appreciation of all that was involved in that meeting, but its full significance apparently did not dawn upon the people of this state until after the lapse of nearly two generations. Fifty-eight years had gone by when, on May 2, 1901, a monument was erected and dedicated, upon these grounds, to the memory of the 51 dead, and as a suggestion to the sole survivor, that in the part he took in that event he had the good fortune to permanently link his name with one of the really important events of American history.

As that monument arose what must have been the emotions of the man, all of whose 51 companions had gone over the Divide, and into the great undiscovered country O'f the dead? It has been said that the three red letter days of his life were his birthday, Christmas, and the second day of May. Who would have denied to him the satisfaction, that was his in the closing years of his life, of knowing that his services were finally appreciated, and that his name was for all time to have a conspicuous place upon Oregon's roll of pioneers ? Trivial events have changed the face of history, and moulded the fate of nations. A single vote has made a President. A single vote has elected governors. A single vote in our highest courts has settled questions of even international importance, but seldom in history has a single vote involved results of greater importance than did the deciding vote of Francis Xavier Mat- thieu on the second day of May, 1843. It was but the well- considered vote of a normal man, with the average poise and balance and temperament of a good citizen. Good citizenship has been the one insistent requirement of all times. The crying need of the distracted republic upon our southern border, is not a leader, but an intelligent and law-abiding electorate.

80 CHARLES. B. MOORES

Latent talent for leadership always exists in abundant supply. It is always in evidence, and subject to call, in every crisis, but it is powerless without the support of that quality of citizen- ship that is the distinguishing mark of American civilization. We honor our departed friend not as a statesman, or a soldier, or a diplomat not as a scholar or a sage, but as a splendid type of such a citizenship as is needed to insure the quality and the permanence of what we call the state.

No higher tribute can we pay to the memory of Francis Xavier Matthieu than to say that in his death the state of Oregon lost a splendid citizen. For two full generations he has commanded the universal confidence and respect of the people of his adopted state.

For full 40 years he has been a welcome guest at all of the meetings of the Oregon State Pioneer Association, and it t's a matter of record that he never missed an annual meeting of the association. As the sole survivor of the historic group that gathered here 71 years ago today, he has ever been the central figure, and the one conspicuous guest, at our annual reunions upon these grounds. Today his chair is vacant. He has fallen into line with the vanguard that started years ago. He has gone to resume the companionships of his pioneer days, upon the other side. Today, for the first time, he responds to the completed roll call in a reunion beyond the divide, where his quaint humor and genial presence is to lighten up and sweeten the long interrupted fellowships of the old romantic days of his early manhood. The memories of his genuine and homely qualities will linger with us as an inspiration, and thoughts of his kindly nature and tolerant spirit will remain as a constant benediction. It is fitting that his worn and broken body has been laid away within hailing distance of the marble shaft that marks the scene of the most notable act of his life.

May. the sod rest lightly, and may the storms beat gently o'er his grave. May the warmth of Oregon's affections temper the chill of the narrow bed in which he lies. May we who remain, as faithfully discharge the responsibilities of life, and when the final summons comes, meet it with the same serene compla-

cency, and leave behind us the record of as good a name.

FIRST THINGS PERTAINING TO PRESBYTERIANISM ON THE PACIFIC COAST^[2]

Robert H. Blossom.

The history of Oregon is replete with tragic events, the important actors being in many instances the early Protestant missionaries.

The history of the establishment and growth of Presbyterianism in the "Oregon Country" is romantic and soul-stirring. What was known as the "Oregon Country" was much larger in area than the Oregon of today; it comprised the present states of Oregon, Washington, Idaho and parts of Montana and Wyoming an empire of latent resources.

In 1832 four Nez Perce Indian chiefs left their wigwams in the Oregon Country, on the Columbia River, their objective point being St. Louis. They wished to secure the "White Man's Book of Heaven," of which they had heard, and to know more of its teachings. Two of them were old and venerable, the others young and active. The older chiefs died and were buried in St. Louis. The names of the younger chiefs were "Hee-oh-ks-te-kin" (the rabbit skin leggins) and "H'co-a-h-co-ah-cotes-min" (no horns on his head). The last mentioned one died while on his way home near the mouth of the Yellowstone River. The other one reached his friends in safety but bringing the sad news of the deaths of all the rest of the party. This remarkable quest was soon published in the newspapers of the land and was read with intense interest by thousands. To some it was a matter of no consequence, but to the missionary organizations it was a call from God, the "Great Spirit" of all. Jason Lee and a party of Methodists answered the "call" first, reaching the land of opportunity in September, 1834. They were followed by missionaries of the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions in 1835-36.

Dr. Whitman a Presbyterian.

Rev. Samuel Parker and Dr. Whitman were appointed by the American board to explore the country and report as to the feasibility of establishing missions among the Indians. Dr. Whitman was a member and ruling elder of the Presbyterian Church at Wheeler, New York. In April, 1835, these men started on their long overland journey from St. Louis, Mo. On the 12th of August they and their caravan reached the rendezvous beyond the mountains on the Green River, a branch of the Colorado. They had now crossed the Divide and were beyond the main range of the Rocky Mountains. Here the party remained ten days, during which time Parker and Whitman conferred with the chiefs of the Nez Perces and Flatheads, explaining to them the object of their journey. The Indians replied that they were anxious to have the missionaries among them. Because of this favorable reply Dr. Whitman suggested that he return with the caravan to the "States" and "obtain associates to come out with him the next year, with the then returning caravan, and establish a mission among these people, and by so doing, save at least a year in bringing the gospel among them."^[3]

On August. 22, 1835, Dr. Whitman began his return journey to the "States" and Dr. Parker continued his exploring tour with an Indian escort. Dr. Parker returned home after an absence of two years and two months, having journeyed 28,000 miles.

Dr. Whitman took with him to the East two Nez Perce boys. Their names were Tuetkas and Ites. The first one he called Richard, the other one John. Dr. Whitman reached his home in Rushville, New York, late Saturday evening. He stopped with his brother and no one else of the village knew of his arrival. The next morning he entered the church, followed by his two Indians. His appearance was like that of an apparition. His mother leaped to her feet, shouting, "Why, there is Marcus!"

FIRST PRESBYTERIANISM ON PACIFIC COAST 83

Rev. H. H. Spalding and his wife (nee Eliza Hart, married to H. H. Spalding, October, 1833) were persuaded to join the Oregon mission, although they had previously planned to go as missionaries to the Osage Indians. Mr. Spalding was a great- great-uncle of Miss Minnie Spaulding, (*) a member of the First Presbyterian Church, Portland. The difference in spelling is explained in this manner : One branch of the family dropped the letter "u." W. H. Gray was Whitman's secular manager. Mr. Gray became prominent in Oregon history and was the author of "A History of Oregon, 1792-1849." Mr. Gray was the father of Mrs. Jacob Kamm (nee Caroline Gray), at present a member of the First Presbyterian Church of Portland, Oregon. Whit- man was a bridegroom, having just married Miss Narcissa Prentiss, and now the wedding journey from New York to the Columbia River was begun, one of the most remarkable ever recorded. Mrs. Whitman and Mrs. Spalding were the first white women to cross the plains and over the Rocky Mountains to the great "River of the West," the Columbia. Other members of this notable party were two teamsters, whose names are not known, and the two Indian lads, Richard and John, who witnessed Dr. Whitman's marriage to Miss Prentiss, in February, 1836, in the Presbyterian church at Angelica, New York. Mrs. Whitman had a charming soprano voice, and prior to her marriage led the church choir at Angelica. At twelve years of age she united with the Presbyterian church of Platts- burg, New York. This brave little band of nine persons had left civilization on our western frontiers, May 2, 1836, and ar- rived at the Hudson's Bay Company post at Walla W T alla on September 2d, after a hard overland journey of more than two thousand miles.

W. H. Gray writes concerning their arrival at the old fort as follows : "Their reception must^ have been witnessed to be fully realized. The gates of the fort were thrown open, the ladies assisted from their horses, and every demonstration of joy and respect manifested." (Gray's History of Oregon, page 142.)

• Miss Spaulding died her* in Portland, July 5, iQU

84 ROBERT H. BLOSSOM

In a few days the mission party left for Vancouver, arriv- ing there on September 12, 1836. Gray also writes of their kindly reception at Vancouver, at the boat landing, by "one whose hair was then nearly white," (Dr. John McLoughlin) who stepped forward and gave his arm to Mrs. Whitman.

• In a letter from Mrs. Whitman to her mother, dated Walla

Walla, Dec. 5, 1836, she says : "We left Vancouver Thursday noon, Nov. 3rd, in two boats," stations having been selected and houses built. Mrs. Whitman informed Dr. McLoughlin that Mr. Gray was their associate and secular agent, and there is evidence to show of his usefulness in this capacity.

GRAY RETURNS EAST FOR REINFORCEMENTS.

Mr. Gray rendered invaluable service in settling the Whit- mans at Waiilatpu and the Spaldings at Lapwai. On Decem- ber 28, 1836, he returned East for reinforcements, arriving in Utica, N. Y., October 15, 1837. Mr. Gray .was married to Miss Mary A. Dix at Ithaca, N. Y., on February 27, 1838. The A. B. C. F. M. appointed him Assistant Missionary, under date of March 13, 1838. This interesting document, making Gray's appointment, is now in the archives of the Oregon His- torical Society.

The A. B. C. F. M. commissioned Rev. Gushing Eels, Rev. Elkanah Walker, Rev. A. B. Smith, and their wives, and Mr. Cornelius Rogers as the reinforcements for the Oregon Mis- sion, and in the summer of 1838 Mr. Gray, with his wife, con- ducted the party safely to Oregon.

ROMAN CATHOLIC MISSION.

By request of the Hudson's Bay Company, the Roman Cath- olics sent their missionaries, Fathers F. N. Blanchet and Modeste Demers, from Montreal, Canada, and they arrived in Vancouver (now in Washington) November 24, 1837, after an overland journey of over four thousand miles.

Transactions of the igth Annual Reunion, Oregon Pioneer Association for 1891, page 87.

FIRST PRESBYTERIANISM ON PACIFIC COAST 85

THE WHITMAN AND SPALDING MISSIONS

The Mission, during these early days, was financed and encouraged by the American Board of Foreign Missions, the board at that time being under the joint control of the Con- gregational, Presbyterian and Dutch Reformed churches.

Dr. Whitman was a physician and a very energetic and capable man. His station was known as the Waiilatpu Mis- sion, located on the Walla Walla River, six miles from the present site of Walla Walla, among the Cayuse Indians, of which he had personal charge. A station at Lapwai, on the Clearwater, among the Nez Perces, was in charge of Mr. Spalding. Missionary work among the Nez Perces was more successful than with the Cayuses, due, no doubt, to the superior character of the Nez Perces.

The services of Mrs. Whitman and Mrs. Spalding were in- valuable as teachers in the native schools which were soon established. The Indians were furnished farming utensils and taught the art of agriculture. The squaws were given lessons in knitting, sewing, carding, spinning, weaving, etc. This method of treatment cured many of the habit of roving. The bucks would jestingly remark that they were being made a nation of women. Formerly the squaws did all the manual labor ; the bucks hunted and fished and for a diversion engaged i'n warfare.

The needs of impoverished emigrants entering the new country when passing the mission were promptly met by Dr. Whitman, who sent them on their way rejoicing.

FIRST PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH.

On August 18, 1838, the first Presbyterian Church in North America west of the Rocky Mountains and on the Pacific Coast was organized at the house of Dr. Whitman, at the Waiilatpu Mission station, six miles west of the present city of Walla Walla, Wash. Rev. H. H. Spalding was elected pastor and Dr. Marcus Whitman, ruling elder. Mr. Spalding was a member of the Bath Presbytery, New York, and this first church was attached to the Bath Presbytery.

86 ROBERT #. BLOSSOM

These gentlemen together with their wives, Mrs. Eliza A. Spalding, Mrs. Narcissa Whitman, Joseph Maki and Maria Keawea Maki, his wife, were the charter members of the first church organized in "Old Oregon." This membership, a total of five, was all by letter, and it is interesting to note that Mr. Maki and his wife were from the native church in Honolulu, Oahu, Rev. Hiram Bingham, pastor. The old record of this first church says : "Brought from the darkness of heathenism into the glorious light of the gospel of peace."

The following resolution was adopted at the time of the organization :

"Resolved, That this Church be governed on the Congre- gational plan, but attached to the Bath Presbytery, New York, and adopt its form of confession of faith and covenant as ours."

There has been some doubt as to whether this organization was a Presbyterian Church. To remove such doubt the writer has made excerpts from the records of this old church. He has also obtained the written opinion of Rev. William Sylvester Holt, D. D., an able Presbyterian minister, formerly connected with the Oregon Presbytery, but now residing in Philadelphia, Pa., and occupying the position of Associate Secretary on the Ministerial Relief and Sustentation Board. His letter follows :

Philadelphia, Pa., December 18, 1913. Mr. R. H. Blossom, Chamber of Commerce, Portland, Ore.

Dear Mr. Blossom: Answering yours of December 6, I will say that personally I have never had any question as to the fact that the Church organized at Waiilatpu by Spalding and Whitman was a Presbyterian Church, and I based it on these facts : First, Spalding was a Presbyterian minister. Sec- ond, Whitman was an elder in the Presbyterian Church in the State of New York when he went out to Oregon. Third, as to adopting the Congregational form, it certainly was due to the fact that there was no Presbytery in Oregon, and that is the reason they were attached to the Presbytery of Bath, New York, and so no possibility of any form of government except their own. However, members were received by the session and not by the congregation so far as I can recall, and every

FIRST PRESBYTERIANISM ON PACIFIC COAST 87

thing was clone according to Presbyterian politics, so that I do not see and never have seen any reason why we are not justified in calling it a Presbyterian Church. Their own rec- ords also call it a Presbyterian Church.

However, I agree that the resolution in their own records that "this Church be governed on the Congregational plan, but attached to the Bath Presbytery," a thing which would be impossible if they were not a Presbyterian Church, "and adopt its form of confession of faith and covenant as ours," shows that the intent of the man who organized the Church was to organize it as a Presbyterian Church. Furthermore, all those records are in the possession of the Synod of Washington, as they should be, which is solely and always has been a Pres- byterian body. The Presbytery of Oregon was not organized until much later, and the church on Clatsop Plains was or- ganized before there was any Presbytery, just as the one was out in Eastern Washington, but there has never been any objection to calling Clatsop Plains a Presbyterian Church, and I never heard of any objection before to calling Waiilatpu a Presbyterian Church. We have always claimed it and I think we are justified in the claim with the facts I have given you above. Respectfully yours,

(Signed) W. S. HOLT.

Mrs. Spalding became a member of the Presbyterian Church in Holland Patent, Oneida County, N. Y., in the Summer of 1826. Transferred her membership to the Presbyterian Church in Lane Seminary, Walnut Hills, Hamilton County, Ohio, and from this latter church to the Waiilatpu.

Mrs. Whitman became a member of the Presbyterian Church in Plattsburgh, Steuben County, N. Y. ; was transferred to the Presbyterian Church, Angelica, Alleghany County, N. Y., and from thence to the Waiilatpu.

Mr. Spalding united with the Presbyterian Church in Platts- burgh, Steuben County, N. Y., in the Summer of 1825. Grad- uated from the Western Reserve College, Hudson, Portage County, Ohio, in the Fall of 1833. Finished his theological course at Lane Seminary, Walnut Hills, Ohio, ordained to the Gospel Ministery by the Bath Presbytery in 1835, and was appointed the same year by the A. B. C. F. M. as missionary. He was one of the organizers of the Waiilatpu Church.

88 ROBERT H. BLOSSOM

Dr. Whitman was a ruling elder in the Presbyterian Church in Wheeler, Steuben County, N. Y. He was appointed mis- sionary in 1835 by the A. B. C. F. M. Mr. Whitman was one of the organizers of the Waiilatpu Church. This information pertaining to the organizers of the Waiilatpu Church was taken from the old Waiilatpu Church record.

The following excerpts are made from this interesting old record : "On the same day, viz., 18 Aug., Charles Compo, for- merly a Catholic, baptized by that church, declaring his disbelief in that faith and expressing a wish to unite with us, was exam- ined and giving satisfactory evidence of being lately born into the Kingdom of Christ, was propounded for admission to the church at some future time. Mr. Pembrem (Pambrun), of Fort Walla Walla, a Catholic present, advised Compo to con- sider the matter well before he left his own religion to join another."

"19 Aug., 1838, Sabbath. Charles Compo married to a Nez Perces woman with whom he had lived for several years, after which assenting to our confession of faith and covenant, was baptized and admitted to our little flock as the first fruit of our missionary labor in this country."

Sabbath, Sept. 2, 1838. The following persons presenting letters were admitted: Wm. H. Gray and Cornelius Rogers.

The following persons, missionaries of the A. B. C. F. M., not having letters, presented as a substitute their appointment from the board were received, viz. : Mrs. Mary Augusta Gray (maiden name Dix), Rev. A. B. Smith, Mrs. A. B. Smith, Rev. Elkanah Walker, Mrs. Mary R. Walker, Rev. Gushing Eells, Mrs. Myra F. Eells.

Nov. 17, 1839, on profession "the following persons were admitted to the First Presby. Church in Oregon Territory, having been examined as to the grounds of their hopes some six months before, viz., Joseph Tuitakas, the principal Nez Perces chief, some thirty-seven years old. Timothy Timosa, a native of considerable influence, some thirty-seven years old."

FIRST PRESBYTERIANISM ON PACIFIC COAST 89

May 14, 1843, nine persons (Indians) were admitted to "the First Presbyterian Church in Oregon" * * * 'The Lord be thanked. To him be all the praise for these trophies of his victorious grace. Truly this is a glorious day for the powers of light. May these lambs be kept from every tempta- tion and every sin and be nurtured up by the rich grace of God and become perfect men and women in Christ Jesus. The Lord's Supper was administered. Rev. Mr. Hines, of the Methodist Mission, was present and assisted the pastor. Pres- ent also, Rev. Mr. Perkins, of the Methodist Mission; also Elijah White, M.D., sub-agent of Indian A. W. R. M., and Mr. Little John and wife and Mrs. Spalding."

June 23, 1844, Sabbath. Ten persons (Indians) "were ad- mitted to the First Presbyterian Church in Oregon," making

twenty-two native members in good and regular standing.

"Dr. Whitman visited Compo in Summer of 47. He ap- pears well, has withstood the efforts of the Catholics to draw him back again, refused to give up his Bible to the priest who

wished to burn it."

Because of Indian troubles the church was without a pastor for several years.

Nov. 12, 1871. A total of forty-five, mostly Indians, were admitted to the church and baptized by the pastor, H. H. Spald- ing. Among this number was Lawyer, head chief of the Nez Perces, and his son, Archie. * * * "This is a glorious day, bless the Lord, oh my soul! That I am permitted to return after so long expulsion in my old age but once to witness the wonderful work of God upon the hearts of this people."

"Chief Lawyer, the noblest man in the Nez Perce tribe, died Jan. 6, 1876. He was an old man and ripe for glory."

A total of ninety-eight were added to the church in Novem- ber, 1871 ; all of whom were Indians but one.

Many Indian converts were added to the church during the years 1872 and 1873.

90 ROBERT H. BLOSSOM

"Labored through the Winter till Feb. 20, 1873. Preached every Sabbath to a crowded house, congregation averaging 320. Three hours a day translating book of Acts, two hours a day with native helpers, three hours a day in school with Bro.

Cowley, both languages, Bible the text book."

Whole No. received into First Presbyterian Church, Oregon, from 1838 to April, 1874961.

Whole No. infants baptized 293.

Various reports were made to the board and Presbytery, showing membership and other statistics. The membership, with few exceptions, was composed of the native population.

INDIANS BAPTIZED.

"May 11, 1874. Today the deeply interesting event occurred of the baptism by Bro. Spalding, apparently on his death bed, of the Umatilla Chief, Umhawalish, who came all the way from his country, 210 miles, for Protestant baptism. He was one of the early pupils of the Martyr Whitman, and the name of Marcus Whitman was given to him in his riew relation as a member of the household of faith." After this ceremony the assembly adjourned from the house to the church and Umhawalish's wife was baptized, receiving the name of Dr. Whitman's wife, Narcissa Whitman.

This old record shows that the membership was not confined to Indians at Waiilatpu alone, but they were "gathered in" at Kamiah, Lapwai, Halapawawi, Forks Clear Water, Ashoteen, Salmon River, Umatilla, Spokane, Wild Horse, Simcoe and Lewiston.

Dr. George F. Whitworth in a letter to the writer dated Seattle, Washington, December 29, 1903, says: "I have the original records of The First Presbyterian Church in the Ter- ritory of Oregon,' organized at the house of Dr. Whitman at the Waiilatpu Mission station, August 18, 1838."

FIRST PRINTING PRESS IN OREGON.

In 1839 the mission received a donation from Rev. H. Bing- ham's church at Honolulu, Sandwich Islands, of a small print

FIRST PRESBYTERIANISM ON PACIFIC COAST 91

ing press, with types, etc., to the value of $450. The first book printed west of the Rocky Mountains, so far as known, was issued that Fall in the Nez Perces language and also in that of the Spokane. (Page 225, "The Conquerors.") This inter- esting relic, with several booklets in the Nez Perce language, can be seen in the rooms of the Oregon Historical Society, Portland.

The Protestant missionaries, Jason Lee, Dr. Parker, Marcus Whitman and others, together with laymen like W. H. Gray, were important factors in winning Oregon to the United States. At this early period ( 1834-1843) it was problematical as to just how the question of sovereignty would be settled. England and America were contending, each with valid claims, for the great Northwest. Jason Lee was a colonizer the greatest this country and state has ever produced' through his efforts, mainly, the American population was largely increased. The question was practically settled in favor of the United States when, at a public meeting, on May 2, 1843, held at Champoeg, then the seat of principal settlement on the Willamette River, it was decided to organize a Provisional Government. The adherents of Great Britain voting fifty against and the Amer- icans fifty-two in favor of the resolution.

WHITMAN'S RIDE.

On October 3, 1842, Dr. Whitman left Waiilatpu with a single companion, Amos Lawrence Love joy, a young man from Boston, and the guide, destined for the "States." Each mem- ber of the party had a horse; mules were used to carry the supplies. Other remarkable rides have occurred in America's history. The story of the ride of Paul Revere, immortalized by Longfellow in his famous poem; Sheridan's ride during our Civil War. These rides, however, were of short duration a few hours or a single night at the most.

Whitman's ride was the heroic deed of one man with a single companion, covering a distance of 3000 miles, occupying be- tween four and five months. Many snow storms and blizzards were encountered; frozen streams were crossed; wild beasts

92 ROBERT .H. BLOSSOM

and Indians to be guarded against. Hezekiah Butterworth is the author of a beautiful poem upon this famous ride, entitled, "Whitman's Ride for Oregon/' There are those who claim this memorable ride was to save Oregon to the United States. Whilst others stoutly maintain it was made in behalf of his mission. In this connection there are two facts which can never be disputed :

1. That Whitman made the ride during the Winter months.

2. That the ride was one of unparalleled bravery and for a cause which must have been uppermost in Whitman's mind.

There is evidence to show that he called upon President Tyler and other prominent men at Washington, D. C* That while in the "States" he urged the necessity of early American emi- gration to Oregon and that measures should be take'n to pro- tect them while en route. That he interviewed the officers of the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions at Boston, explaining the condition of affairs at the mission and making suggestions as to its needs. His wishes were granted. His terrible privations had greatly changed his appearance; then, too, his garb of buckskin trousers, a waistcoat and a blue English duffle coat over which he wore a buffalo overcoat, a few inches shorter than the duffle, was such as might cause comment in the ordinary drawing-room. Dr. Whitman re- marked that it was "rather fantastic for a missionary, a buffalo coat with a blue border."

PIONEERS COME.

In the Fall of 1843 it is estimated that nearly 200 wagons, with over 1000 Americans arrived upon the plains of the Columbia. Ox teams were mostly used, averaging about six yoke to the team. Several thousand loose horses and cattle were brought along. The feat of crossing the Blue Moun- tains with wagons was accomplished and which the command- ant of the Hudson's Bay Company at Fort Hall said was an impossibility.

• He did confer with the Secretary of War. Compare with Marshall's "Ac-

quisition of Oregon," Vol. I, p. 248. Editor Quarterly.

FIRST PRESBYTER: AN ISM ON PACIFIC COAST 93

Dr. Marcus Whitman, who was returning to Oregon after his famous Winter ride, rendered efficient service as guide, physician and friend for this first great immigration to the Oregon country.

Jesse Applegate, a pioneer of 1843, writes of Dr. Whitman:* "I would fain now and here pay a passing tribute to that noble and devoted man, Doctor Whitman. I will obtrude no other name upon the reader, nor would I his, were he of our party or even living, but his stay with us was transient, though the good he did was permanent and he has long since died at his post. From the time he joined us on the Platte until he left us at Fort Hall, his great experience and indominant- able energy were of priceless value to the migrating column. His constant advice, which we knew was based upon a knowl- edge of the road before us, was : 'Travel, Travel, Travel.' Nothing else will take you to the end of your journey ; nothing is wise that does not help you along; nothing is good for you that causes a moment's delay. His great authority as a physician saved us many prolonged and perhaps ruinous de- lays, and it is no disparagement to others to say that to no other individual are the emigrants of 1843 so much indebted for the successful conclusion of their journey as to Dr. Marcus Whitman."

Upon Dr. Whitman's return to his mission at Waiilatpu he found his flour mill, with a quantity of grain, had been burned by disaffected Indians.

FIRST WHITE WOMEN IN OREGON.

On November 1, 1843, Dr. Whitman wrote from Fort Walla Walla to the A. B. C. F. M. : "If I never do more than to have bee'n one of the first to take white women across the mountains and prevent the disaster and reaction which would have oc- curred by the breaking up of the present emigration, and estab- lishing the first wagon road across to the border of the Columbia River, I am satisfied." * * * "I am determined to exert

• A Day With the Cow Column in 1843, Vol. i, page 371. Oregon Historical

Society Quarterly.

94 ROBERT H. BLOSSOM

myself for my country and to procure such regulations and laws as will best secure both the Indians aftd white men in their transit and settlement intercourse."

THE WHITMAN MASSACRE.

The first few years of missionary work was very encourag- ing. It was not long, however, before a spirit of hatred for the whites manifested itself. On November 29, 1847, occurred the horrible massacre of Dr. Whitman, his wife and twelve other persons. Mrs. Whitman was the only woman killed. Fifty-three women and children were held in captivity two weeks by the savages; among them being Eliza, the ten-year- old daughter of Mr. Spalding. Mr. Peter Skene Ogden, chief factor of the Hudson's Bay Company, secured their freedom by paying a ransom in shirts, blankets, guns, ammunition and tobacco to the value of about $500. Mr. Spalding says that too much praise cannot be awarded Mr. Ogden for his prompt and judicious management of the captives' deliverance.

The leaders in this massacre were the Cayuse Indians, for whose welfare the Doctor and his wife had labored. The uprisi'ng is ascribed to the advent of the white man, whose numbers were rapidly increasing through immigration. The Indians said, "If the Americans come to take away their lands and make slaves of them, they would fight so long as they had a drop of blood to shed." They also had a superstitious dread that poison would be given them by the Americans. The mas- sacre was a prelude to the Cayuse War which followed in 1847-48.

CLATSOP PLAINS CHURCH.

The church of Clatsop Plains was organized on September 19, 1846, by Rev. Lewis Thompson a'nd hence could not be the first Presbyterian church organized on the Pacific Coast, as has been claimed. It must take second honors. "Honor to whom honor is due."

TRIALS OF A PIONEER PREACHER

The following is an extract from an interesting letter to the writer, which gives one some idea of the trials and tribulations of a country preacher during the church's formative period in early Oregon :

FIRST PRESBYTERIANISM ON PACIFIC COAST 95

(From J. A. Hanna, dated Los Angeles, California, March 18,

1904.)

"I married a young and handsome lady in Pittsburg, Pa., in February, 1852, at 6 o'clock A. M., and started west at 7 o'clock of the same day. In the absence of railroads we came by steamboat on the Ohio and Missouri rivers to St. Joseph, Mo. Here we convened as a Presbyterian colony and purchased our outfit for crossing the continent with ox teams and wagons. Our company consisted of about sixty persons and eighteen wagons. We endured the usual privations and hardships in- cident to such a journey had some Indian scares, but nothing serious. After five months we arrived in Oregon City, where we received our first mail from home. Here I learned that the Presbytery of Oregon erected November 19, 1851, stood adjourned to meet with the First Church of Clatsop Plains on the first Thursday i'n October, 1852. After a few days rest I went by steamboat to Astoria. Accompanied by Elder T. P. Powers and others we proceeded to Clatsop Plains where we found Rev. Lewis Thompson and his congregation assembled at the church. But Rev. E. R. Geary and Rev. Robert Robe were not present and by invitation I preached and for want of a quorum we adjourned till Friday, when Rev. Lewis Thomp- son preached. When again we adjourned till Saturday when I preached preparatory to the communion on the Sabbath, and again we adjourned 'sine die.' In those pioneer days Presby- tery always met on Thursday and remained over Sabbath and united with the church in celebrating the sacrament of the Lord's Supper. On Sunday I preached and assisted the pastor administer the sacrament. It was a precious and comforting season. We afterwards learned why Bros. Geary and Robe failed to get to Presbytery. They had arranged to come to Clatsop Plains by way of an Indian trail over the Coast range of mountains. But Rev. R. Robe's horse became lame and he returned to the river and came by boat. He was too late for Presbytery, but just in time to take the steamer to San Fran- cisco to join the brethren there in constituting the Synod of the Pacific. Had he failed in this there would have been a

96 ROBERT H. BLOSSOM

failure in constituting the Synod. Brother Geary, after wan- dering- a few days in the mountains in an unsuccessful attempt to get through, returned to his home. I returned by boat to Portland a town of 400 or 500 inhabitants and we resumed our journey up the Willamette Valley and settled in Benton County, and on the 24th day of September, 1853, organized the First Presbyterian Church of Corvallis, the majority of whom were members of the colony in crossing the plains.

PRESBYTERY MEETS IN PORTLAND.

"My next attempt to meet with the brethren in Presbytery was in Portland, October 1, 1853; and in doing so I traveled on foot sixty miles from Corvallis to Champoeg, thence by boat to Portland, and returned in like manner. This was the first meeting of the Oregon Presbytery since its erection in September, 1851. The members were Rev. Lewis Thompson, Rev. E. R. Geary, Rev. Robert Robe, and Alva Condit, elder from the Clatsop Church. Rev. J. L. Yantis, D. D., and Rev. J. A. Hanna presented their letters and were received and en- rolled. I then reported the organization of the First Presby- terian Church of Corvallis, which was received and enrolled.

"In answer to a request from interested persons in Portland for church services Rev. J. L. Yantis, D. D., was appointed to preach in Portland as often as convenient and to organize a church as soon as the way appeared clear. And he, with the as- sistance of Rev. Geo. F. Whitworth, did organize the First Church of Portland, January 1, 1854. Well do I remember seeing Dr. Yantis plodding through mud and water on his little gray pony on his way to Portland, a distance of eighty miles. It was during this meeting of Presbytery that I became acquainted with Mr. and Mrs. W. P. Abrams. They were charter mem- bers of the church and were very efficient in its life and prog- ress, and yet they remained warm frierids of the Congrega- tional Church though loyal to the Presbyterian Church in all of its interests.

"But I must relate another meeting of Presbytery under difficulties. Presbytery stood adjourned to meet in Oregon

FIRST PRESBYTERIANISM ON PACIFIC COAST 97

City, September 28, 1854. Messrs. Thompson, Hanna and Elder Alva Condit were present. Also Rev. Philip Condit, with his letter, seeking membership. Rev. Thompson preached Thursday night in the M. E. Church. There being no quorum we adjourned to Friday. Rev. Hanna preached that night, and still no quorum. We adjourned to meet at the residence of Rev. E. R. Geary at his 'Sherwood' farm in Yamhill County, thirty miles distant. We traveled by steamboat as far as Champoeg and then journeyed afoot ten miles across the country to Dr. Geary's, where we held a delightful session of Presbytery and worshipped on the Sabbath in Lafayette.

"We all labored under great difficulties in meeting our ap- pointments ; had bad roads and no bridges traveled on horse- back through mud and water and swimming swollen streams.

"During the early pioneer years I was immersed twelve times each time having a good horse under me. I will illustrate by giving one instance. It occurred on January 1, 1858, in going to preach at Pleasant Grove, thirty-two miles distant. I Encountered a swollen stream swam over, but failed to make a landing, owing to high banks swam back again and pressed the water from my clothes went up stream two miles crossed and continued my journey twenty-two miles preached that night in my wet clothes also preached twice on Sabbath, returned home on Mo'nday, and, if my memory serves me right my clothes were dry when I reached home. Other ministers had similar trials but we lived through it all. I wish to say for those early pioneer ministers (with the exception of Dr. Yantis) that they all gave their lives to the work on this coast. They lived, labored and died on the field. Brother Robe and myself only live to tell of their good works. They are held in blessed memory. Laid broad and deep the foundations and builded better than they knew."

Note. Messrs. Robe and Hanna have since died.

98 ROBERT -H. BLOSSOM

ORGANIZATION OF THE FIRST PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH AT PORTLAND, OREGON.

Previous to the organization of the First Presbyterian Church, on January 1, 1854, Presbyterians upon their arrival in Portland found here no church home. The Congregational brethren had preceded them and established a house of worship. The two denominations are not so wide apart in their belief. It is therefore not surprising that Presbyterians affiliated with the Congregational Church in Portland's early days.

We find, however, that Presbyterians assisted in the organ- ization of this First Congregational Church. Hence a word concerning this will be eminently proper. The original records of the Congregational Church are preserved and are now in the archives of the Oregon Historical Society. This book, called (Record No. 1), "Church Record of First Congregational Church, O. T.," is yellow with age. Its leaves are becoming loosened from their binding and they are much worn by the "tooth of time."

It was with a feeling akin to reverence that we turned its pages and gazed upon the record of a work so faithfully per- formed by the pioneer missionaries and preachers by the pioneer fathers and mothers many of whom have gone to their heavenly home.

On folio 1 of this ancient "Record" it is stated, that on Sun- day, June 15, 1851, the organization of the First Congregational Church was effected by choosing Rev. H. Lyman as pastor; and among others, who "manifested by rising, their willingness to become members and form the church" are found the names of Mr. a'nd Mrs. W. P. Abrams and D. K. Abrams. W. P. Abrams was chosen clerk pro tem and the minutes are signed by him. At a meeting of the "male members," Saturday eve- ning, July 5, 1851, W. P. Abrams and N. C. Sturtevant were chosen deacons. These being the first deacons of the First Congregational Church.

And now, in this old "Record" (folios 29 and 30), appear these minutes bearing directly upon the organization of the First Presbyterian Church, viz. :

FIRST PRESBYTERIANISM ON PACIFIC COAST 99

Portland, January 1, 1854.

"This being the regular Sabbath for a season of communion, and a preparatory lecture having been given last evening, the ordinance was this morning celebrated according to arrange- ment. The number present was fewer than usual, owing to the absence of some, who were this day dismissed, according to their own request, to aid in forming an Old School Pres- byterian Church today in this city. The members dismissed were Brothers James McKeown, Deacon W. P. Abrams and Mrs. Sarah L. Abrams. It was unanimously voted that they should receive letters, showing their good and regular stand- ing in this church, and also recommending them to the watch and fellowship of any evangelical church with which they may become connected. The season, though saddened by the de- parture and absence of esteemed members, was yet one of much interest.

"H. LYMAN, Pastor." PRESBYTERIANS IN PORTLAND.

A meeting of the Presbytery of Oregon was held October 1, 1853, in the hall at the Canton House, in this city, then a thriv- ing village of 400 or 500 inhabitants. The following members of the Presbytery were present, viz. : Rev. J. L. Yantis, D.D. ; Rev. Ed. R. Geary, D.D. ; Rev. Lewis Thompson, Rev. Robert Robe, Rev. J. A. Hanna and Elder Alva Condit. On Sabbath morning, October 3, 1853, Rev. J. L. Yantis preached in the First Congregational Church, northwest corner of Second and Jefferson streets, and Rev. J. A. Hanna occupied the pulpit of the First Methodist Church, then on Taylor street, between Second and Third streets.

In the afternoon of the same day (October 3, 1853), those interested met at the home of William P. Abrams, northwest corner of First and Jefferson streets, and a petition to the Pres- bytery was prepared asking authority to organize a church. The request was granted and Dr. J. L. Yantis appointed to carry the same into effect. A few weeks later Rev. Geo. F. Whitworth and family arrived in the Territory and Dr. Whit- worth was invited to assist Dr. Yantis in the work.

100 ROBERT H. BLOSSOM

FIRST CHURCH ORGANIZED.

Previous to the organization of the church Dr. Whitworth preached for several weeks in the hall of the old Canton House. And in the same building on the morning of January 1, 1854, Dr. Yantis preached from Luke 12:32 ("Fear not little flock"), and in the afternoon of this day a preliminary meeting was held at the residence of W. P. Abrams, First and Jeffer- son streets, and steps were taken to organize the church. Messrs. Wm. P. Abrams and James McKeown were elected elders. The following entry was made by Dr. Whitworth in his diary at the time: "In the afternoon met at Mr. Abrams' and organized church with ten members. At night preached from Heb. 2 :4, after which Dr. Yantis ordained the elders elect/'

The installation of the elders and the organization of the church was completed on Sunday evening, January 1, 1854, in this old historic structure, i. e., the hall of the Canton House. At this meeting there were no other ministers present but Dr. Yantis and Dr. Whitworth.

According to Dr. Whitworth's diary, entries made at the time, he supplied the church until the middle of February, 1854 ; to be specific, he preached every Sabbath in January after the first but one, the 22d, when "he was unable by reaso'n of tooth and face-ache, but preached on the 29th and on the 5th and 12th of February," when on the 13th he left for Puget Sound.

The Canton House, a wooden structure, was owned jointly by William P. Abrams and Captain Stephen Coffin and was situated on the northeast corner of Front and Washington streets. This old building has played a large part in the history of Portland. When originally built it was occupied on the grade floor by two stores, the second story by rooms and offices and in the third was .the hall, in which the meetings just re- ferred to were held. This hall was a large one and was used as an assembly hall for various occasions. The society people of Portland , would have dancing parties and it was here that such functions were held. It was also used by the Sons of

Temperance, and at a later date by Samaritan Lodge, I. O. O. F.

FRONT STREET, SOUTH FROM STARK, 1852.

Fourth building on the left is the Canton House, Front and Washington Streets, afterwards the American Exchange.

First Presbyterian Church organized in the third story of this building on January 1, 1854, by Rev. J. L. Yantis, D. D., assisted by Rev. Geo. F. Whitworth.

The above picture is a reproduction of a daguerreotype taken by L. H. Wakefield, a pioneer artist of Portland.

FIRST PRESBYTERIANISM ON PACIFIC COAST 101

This building had many names. It was first called the Canton House, then Pioneer Hotel," then "Lincoln House," and finally the American Exchange. For many years it was used as a hotel and under its last name (American Exchange) was one of Portland's best resorts. It was moved, some years ago, to the northeast corner of Front and Jefferson streets, where it now stands in a remodeled condition. It is a peculiar coinci- dence that this old structure now covers the identical spot on which Wm. P. Abrams and Stephen Coffin, in the Winter of 1850, constructed and operated the first steam sawmill in the Northwest, i. e., Oregon, Washington and Idaho. ORIGINAL MEMBERS.

Many are curious to know who these first ten members were (all joining by letter). There is no accessible record giving this information, but Mrs. W. P. Abrams and Dr. Whitworth have recalled the names of eight, viz. : Mrs. Sarah H. Thom- son, Mrs. Mary Eliza Whitworth (Dr. Whitworth's wife), Miss Sarah Jane Thomson, Miss Mary Joanna Thomson (now Mrs. Mary J. Beatty), W. P. Abrams, Mrs. W. P. Abrams, James McKeown and Archibald H. Bell. Mrs. Sarah H. Thomson was the mother of Mrs. Whitworth and the Misses Thomson were the granddaughters of Mrs. Sarah H. Thomson. Mr. and Mrs. Abrams were the parents of Mrs. H. A. Hogue (nee Sarah L. Abrams), and grandparents of Harry W. Hogue and Chester J. Hogue, present members of the church.

And did they have a choir for the church in 1854? Yes, indeed ! and excellent music was furnished. The following are known to have assisted in the singing: Dr. J. G. Glenn, John C. Carson, D. R. Carson, Captain W. S. Powell and Mrs. Caro- line E. Corbett. At times the choir was led by D. R. Carson, a brother of John C. Carson. Of these early singers Captain W. S. Powell is the only survivor.

In these early days the Red Mari of the forest was much in evidence. There were several good camping places along the Willamette's bank. On the east side of the river, in the vicinity of Water street, between Washington, Stark and Burnside streets, the bank was low and flat, extending some distance

102 ROBERT H. BLOSSOM

out before the water was reached. Willows and other trees grew on these "flats" and here, in large numbers, the Indians pitched their tents.

Another excellent camping place was at the foot of Jeffer- son street, on the west bank, near Abrams' and Coffin's mill as many as 150 Indians being in camp at one time. Mrs. Abrams says that the Indians were inveterate gamblers and that when she resided on First and Jefferson streets they often kept her awake bights with their incessant noise, which they always made when indulging in their favorite game.

FIRST CHURCH REORGANIZED.

The First Church was reorganized August 4, 1860.

The first pastor was Rev. P. S. Caffrey.

The first members received (all by letter) at this organiza- tion were: S. M. Hensill, Israel Mitchell, Mrs. Mary Robert- son, Mrs. Margaret Smith, Mrs. Eliza Ainsworth, Mrs. M. Jane Hensill, Mrs. Frances Sophia Law, Mrs. Sarah J. Mead, Miss Leonora Blossom, James McKeown, Mrs. Elizabeth L. Blossom, A. H. Bell, Mrs. Jerusha Hedges, Mrs. Caroline Couch, Mrs. C. A. Ladd, Mrs. Polona Clark and Mrs. Agnes Grooms a total charter membership of seventeen.

The first elders of the reorganized church were : James Mc- Keown, Israel Mitchell and Smith M. Hensill.

The first deacon of the church was A. H. Bell.

The first board of trustees were: W. S. Ladd, J. C. Ains- worth, H. A. Hogue, J. M. Blossom and B. F. Smith.

Some of the first singers were : Mrs. J. W. J. Pearson, Mrs. W. B. Mead, Miss Frances Holman, Miss A. Chamberlain (now Mrs. E. G. Randall), J. B. Wyatt, Capt. H. L. Hoyt, W. B. Mead, and 'P. C. Schuyler.

All of the friends whom the writer interviewed and corre- sponded with have since died.

As we bring this sketch to a close, we are reminded that the pioneer preachers and the pioneer church members are passing away. Their work was a noble one and their life, as many of us know, was one of sublime patie'nce and courage.

FIRST PRESBYTERIANISM ON PACIFIC COAST 103

Should we forget these early Oregon Presbyterian Church fathers? Whitman, the medical missionary and martyr, and his wife, Narcissa Whitman, the only woman martyr ; Spalding, the zealous worker; Gray, the secular manager and assistant missionary, author of Oregon's first history, and one of the leading organizers of Oregon's Provisional Government in

1843.

We cannot refrain from again naming Jason Lee, the great

Methodist missionary, a man whose early activities in behalf of Oregon should never be forgotten. There are others whose names appear on the roll of honor, known in our day as "Fath- ers of Oregon," all enshrined in the hearts of liberty-loving and law-abiding people.

We shall never forget the dramatic story of the heroes and heroines in the planting of the cross and the establishment of civil government in Old Oregon !

JOURNAL OF DAVID THOMPSON

EDITORIAL INTRODUCTION BY T. C. ELLIOTT.

The first part of this journal was published in No. 1, Vol. 15, of this Quarterly and the introduction there given should be read in connection with this part.

The reader will feel disappointment because nothing of im- portance is revealed by Mr. Thompson as to the physical or commercial conditions existing at Astoria three months after the landing of the officers and men of the Pacific Fur Com- pany from the Tonquin in April, 1811, and the beginning of the erection of the trading post. In explanation it may be remarked that Mr. Thompson was a guest of rival fur traders and felt restrained by courtesy from making such a record; also that in all of his journals he is very reticent as to the personnel or movements of rivals or associates. However, in later years, about 1847-8, he wrote a narrative of this journey down the Columbia in which he stated that Astoria upon his arrival there consisted of "four low log huts," as well as considerable other information of a general character. This narrative or autobiography is mentioned by Dr. Elliott Coues in the Editor's Preface to the Henry-Thompson Journals (Francis P. Harper, 1897) and is at the present time in process of publication by The Champlain Society of Canada under the able editorship of Mr. J. B. Tyrrell, of Toronto.

The reader will find it of interest to read in connection with this text the references by Franchere, Ross, Irving and Ross Cox to Mr. Thompson's visit at Astoria; also Mr. Ross' ac- count of the journey up the Columbia in company with Mr. Thompson. The comparison will throw some light upon Mr. Ross' literary method and accuracy of statement.

Mention is again made of Mr. Thompson's peculiar use of the word "gone" when stating that he had passed a certain object or place. He also often uses the parenthetical marks to designate the right or left side of the river or road. His courses are all in terms of the magnetic needle, and while his

JOURNAL OF DAVID THOMPSON 105

distances are often quite inexplicable the platting of the courses usually gives a very close idea of the meanderings of the stream during the day's travel.

Since editing the first part of this journal the writer has been privileged to examine the original journals at Toronto, and his feeling of satisfaction with the general correctness of this copy is only equalled by his charity for the copyist and understanding of a few apparent contradictions in the text.

See further note at close of the journal.

JOURNAL OF DAVID THOMPSON

(As COPIED FROM THE ORIGINAL IN THE ARCHIVES OF ONTARIO, CANADA.)

July 16th (1811), Tuesday. 34 A fine day. Observed for Lat'de, Long, and Time. Lat. 46 13' 56" Long. 123 48 & J4' W. ^

July 17th, Wednesday. A very fine day, if we except an ap- pearance of rain with a few drops of do., a steady gale from the sea as usual.

July 18th, Thursday. 35 A very hot calm day. I went across to the Indian Village with Mr. Stuart and my men. After visiting the Houses, we went up a green hill where we grat- ified ourselves with an extension (ve) view of the Oceon and the Coast South'd. From hence I set the Lands of Cape Dis- appointme'nt S. 80 W. 4 m., Pt. Adams S. 25 W. 1-J4 m. or

2 m., Co. or Obs. Pt. 36 S. 5 E. 10 or 12 m., a bay 37 of l-j m. deep to the east'd which is almost met by a cut 37 of fresh water and inundated marshes etc., the cut of water bears S. 17 E.

3 m. A Flat 38 at Pt. Adams about y^ m. distant bears toward Cape Disappointment, from that Pt. the Flat about 300 yards long. Lewis 39 is River opposite Pt. George 39 , bears S. 30 E. running from the S. W., Bay above M. M. the Pt. and Bay.

34 Astoria is now charted as in Lat. 46 n' 20" and Long. 123 50' W.

35 Today Mr. Thompson crosses the Columbia river to the Chinook Indian village about i mile east of the present McGowan's Station, where Chief Com- comly resided. He then climbs upon the "green hill," later charted as Scar- borough Head, upon which the fortifications of Fort Columbia have since been built; and then returns to "the House," i. e., Fort Astoria.

36 Tillamook Head, which was the "Clark's Point of View" of Lewis and Clark.

37 Young's Bay and Skeppernawin (Skipanon) creek with marshes adjoining.

38 Clatsop Spit.

39 Lewis and Clark river and Smith Point.

106 T. C. ELLIOTT

From the House set Cape Disappointment, bears N. 78 W. 7 m. ; the Point 40 above from whence I set the above Courses N. 62 W. Zy 2 m., the nearest land across 40 bears N. W. 2^ m. and then forms a Bay. 40 The little Pt. 41 close to the House lies nearly on the same line with the Cape Disappointment, dis- tant 1-5 m.

July 19th, Friday. A fine hot day. Obs'd for Lat. by 2 Alt.

July 20th and 21st, Saturday and Sunday. Fine weather.

July 22nd, Monday. 42 A fine day. Arranged for setting off for the Interior in company with Mr. David Stuart and 8 of his men in 3 canoes. I pray Kind Providence to send us a good journey to my family and friends. At 1-24 P. M. set off in company with Mr. David Stuart and 8 of his men. They are to build a Factory somewhere below the Falls of the Columbia, at the Lower Tribe of the Shawpatih Nation, Course from the House to Tongue Pt. N. 35 E. 2 m. + l / 4 , a sail wind and very high waves. Course not very certain (N. 58 E., S. 80 E. distant Pt). Course S. 10 E. % m, S. 2 W. 1-3, S. 55 W. 1-5. We stopped at the Isthmus for Mr. Stuart's canoes who carried all their goods &c. here. The course from Tongue Pt. to the Great Pt. 43 on the right is N. 58 E. 6 m. but having gone into the bay the Co. from end of S. 55 W. 1-5 m. Co. is N. 84 E. 3 m., sailing we ran about 3 m. and then turned N. 48 E. to the Great Pt. Say Co. N. E. 2 m. + 1 m. + 2 m. N. 20 E. iy 4 m. N. 77 E. % m. + y m. At 6.40 P. M. put up m a very awkward place for the night. 2 Indians came to us, we sent them for Salmon, of which they brought us a little.

40 Scarborough Head, and Point Ellice, and Grays Bay.

41 Shark's Point, where the Parker Hotel stands in the City of Astoria.

42 Read in this connection Alex. Ross' account in "Oregon Settlers," pp. 103, et seq. Mr. Thompson sails around and beyond Tongue Point, but is compelled to turn back to the isthmus to wait for the Stuart party; they then proceed together along the south side of the river as far as Cathlamet Point, near where they camp for the night.

43 Cathlamet Head or Point, which is not to be confused with the town of Cathlamet on north side of the river.

JOURNAL OF DAVID THOMPSON 107

July 23, Tuesday. 44 A fine cloudy morning. At 4.21 A. M. set off, Co. N. 75 E. y 2 m. End of Co. 7 Hos. on the I. 45 N. 80 E. 1-3 m. S. 80 E. y 2 m. The Nation on Pt. Adams is named the Klats up or Klats ap ; the other on the north side the Chinook. Co. S. 70 E. 1 m. plus y m. S. 68 E. y 2 m. S. 72 E. 14 m. S. 65 E. 1-6 m. S. 42 E. 1 m. S. 80 E. 1-6 m. At 7 A. M. put ashore to boil meat and at 8.40 A. M. set off, Co. S. 70 E. y 2 m. [78 E.]. Saw the place 46 where I obs'd and camped going to the Sea, then Co. S. 70 E. 1ft, S. 80 E. 2-3, N. 78 E. y 2 m. N. 73 E. 1 m. From beginning of course the white conical mountain bears N. 70 E., No. 1, N. 72 E. 1 m. N. 58 E. 2^ m. End of course, an opening on the I. 47 bears S. 65 E., from which a river comes, perhaps the one passed a few miles below. Co. N. 58 E. y 4 m. N. 18 E. 2y^ m. N. 26 E. y 2 m. N. 30 E. ft plus 1-6, N. E. 1-5, N. 55 E. 1-6, passed 2 houses. Co. to Pt. of Island 48 N. 60 E. y 2 m. We go on the outer side of the Island to avoid the large village of about 20 Houses. Co. N. 75 E. y 4 m. N. 88 E. 1 m. plus 1 m, S. 85 E. 3/ 4 , E. iy 2 m. S. 72 E. ft, S. 65 E. ft, S. 57 E. y 2 m. S. E. 1-3 m. S. 35 E. ft. At 7 P. M. at the end of a line of steep Rocks, on a very steep shore, we put up, with difficulty we could place the Goods, and all slept as I may say standing, as all the lower lands are overflowed and no camp- ment can be found.

July 24th, Wednesday. 49 A cloudy musketoe morning. The white mount'n 50 bears about N. 65 E. Our course is N. 88 E. 1 m. at 4^ A. M., E. \y 2 plus ^ m. S. 80 E. 2-3 plus ft m.

44 Continuing along the south bank Mr. Thompson stops for breakfast near Clifton, Oregon, sights Mt. St. Helens just as they round the upper end of Puget's Island, avoids Indians on Grim's Island, and camps at night on the rocky bank about 8 miles below Rainier, Oregon. By error Mr. Ross' account places the first night's camp here.

45 Tenas-Illihee Island.

46 Note 32 placed this camping place on the north side of the river. Further study shows it to have been on the south side, above Clifton.

47 Upper end of Wallace's Island and the channel south of it.

48 Meaning Grim's Island; right along here was Oak Point where the Winships began to build a trading post in 1810.

49 The parties cross the river and follow the north side as far as Deer Island and then recross to the Oregon side. After passing Willamette Slough and War- rior Point the wind forced them to cross over the inundated lands on Wapato or Sauvie's Island to the slough for a camping place. The well known Indian camp of Chief Casinov is near.

50 Mt. St. Helens.

108 T..C. ELLIOTT

plus iy 2 m. At 6^4 A. M. put ashore to gum and boil salmon. At 8^4 A. M. set off Co. S. 80 E. y 2 m., S. 75 E. %, S. 60 E. 1-6, S. 50 E. y 2 , S. E. y 2 , S. 50 E. 1 m., S. 10 E. 1-6, S. 36 E. y 2 m. (3 m. on the Co.) S. 30 E. 1-6, S. 40 E. y 2 . At end of this Co. we crossed S. 20 E. J4, but on straight Co. to the I. Pt. is S. 48 E. 3^ m. which we take. S. 40 E. 1-6, S. 25 E. 2y 2 plus 1 m. At end of this mile a gap on the ( which seems to send out a large Brook. 51 A Mount 52 bears S. 86 E. plus 1^4 m. At e'nd of Co. set the first conical Mountain N. 42 E., another N. 56 E., the third S. 84 E. Perhaps the distances are too long here, as the sail is up and I go by the watch, plus y 2 m., S. 25 E. 1 m., S. 40 E. 1# m. .Passed in the woods 60 yds. & Co. West J4 m. to the Wilarbet River, 53 as it blows too hard, then Co. S. 15 W. j m. as ( ?) which is best ; take the Co. from entrance of the River, which we see S. 8 W. \y 2 m. and lessen the S. 40 E. iy 2 m. Co. + # m. At end of the Co. put up at 6% P. M. A few Indians came to us, their village is about 1 m. below and is seemingly a fine place, say 12 houses. Obsd. for Lat., Merid., Altde. of Saturn 44 42^' Lat. 45 49' 38" N.

July 25th, Thursday. 54 A cloudy morning. At 5.7 A. M. set off up the Wilarbet River. Co. S. 7 W. % m. S. Jg, S. 5 E. y s , S. 15 E. 1-6, S. 30 E. 1-6, S. 40 E. 1-6, S. 52 E. 1-6, S. 65 E. 1-5, E. \y 2 m., S. 85 E. 1-6, S. 60 E. #, S. 46 E. #, S. 20 E. y 8 , S. 5 E. J4, S. y 2 plus 1-6. All along the river on both sides the country is inundated. S. 5 W. */ 2 m., S. 10 E. 1-3. At end of Co. the River continuing to come from the Island at S. SW'd we returned the last Co. to paddle across the inundated lands for the Columbia, S. 70 E. >, N. E. 1-6, N. #, S. E. y s , S. 35 E. 2-3, when we carried about 60 yds. into the Columbia River again. Co. in it 28 E. 1 m. which

51 Martin's Slough, on Washington side.

52 Mt. Hood. The next mountains seen are St. Helens, Adams and Hood in the order named.

53 Willamette Slough.

54 The parties follow the meanderings of the Willamette Slough for some distance and then turn into Sturgeon Lake on Wapato Island and from the lake portage cross into the Columbia again somewhere below Reeder's Landing; their camp at evening is at present town of Washougal. The Willamette river is not noted at all, but Mt. Adams is sighted from near its mouth.

JOURNAL OF DAVID THOMPSON 109

may also be the Co. downwards for y m. Co. 1 m., in this Co. put ashore at 10 Houses, this is the place we traded Salmon and afterwards boiled do. as we went to the Sea. S. 27 E. y m., y m. gone to 5 Houses, boiled Salmon and dried a few things of Mr. Stuart's. S. 28 E. 1 m., Co. S. 5 E. y* m. Be- ginning of Course set the Mountain 54 No. 2 N. 24 E. 25m. S. 30 E. 1 m., we crossed the river in this Course and cannot as yet perceive any Channel going to the Wilarbet River, but the ground is all overflowed. On looking back we see part of this side an Island 55 as drawn at M. M. where we left this River yesterday even. A bold channel in the Island on the Co. appears about y> m. above where we turned to the Wilarbet River. I did not draw it. Co. S. 10 E. y 2 m., S. 30 E. ^ m. Passed 8 canoes seining of Salmon, of which they killed 10 at a haul. Their seine is about 30 fm. long, exclusive of 10 fm of cord at each end, but they are as inhospitable as most of the others of this Nation, not a Salmon to be got from them, although they have ple'nty. S. 40 E. 1 m., S. E. 1-6, S. 70 E. 1-6, S. 80 E.iy 2 m. plus y 2 m, S. 72 E. 1 m., S. 80 E. 24, middle of Course turned N. E. y> m. to a good campment at 7 P. M., fine meadow land below Pt. Vancouver. Michel went a hunting and wounded a chevreil, of which the Tracks are plenty here. We traded much split salmon at a very dear rate for Rings, Bells, Buttons and Tobacco. A large snowy mountain 56 bears S. 88 E. 40 m. distant from campment. Measured the Chevruil. Observed Merid. Altd. of Saturn. (Observations omitted.)

July 26th, Friday. 57 A fine cloudy morning. Michel killed a good fleshy Chevruil, but not fat. Dimensions as follows: Length 5.5 In plus 14 inches for the tail, height of the fore leg 3.3 & */ 2 , hind do. 3.6, just (girt) at the breast 3 ft. 4 In., a fawn color, throat, breast and belly white, legs a fawn colour ;

55 Perhaps Bachelor's Island and Slough.

56 Ml. Hood.

57 Starting late the party enter just above Washougal a natural slough which in high water becomes a lake, but portage back into the river and then pass around Pt. Vancouver; the camp is on the north bank below Cape Horn, a very short day's journey, which is explained in Mr. Ross' account. Mt. Hood is very accurately placed from two separate locations.

110 T..C. ELLIOTT

upper part of the tail fawn, lower part white but not such fine long hair on the tail as the Upper Country Chevruil. Length of the horns 19 inches, 3 branches and 8 inches between tip and tip. Made 2 oars and arranged a canoe of Mr. Stuart's. At 7.55 set off, Co. 88 E. 1 m. Fine Meadow land. At end of course found ourselves shut in and obliged to carry about 40 yds to the River, plus l / 4 m., S. 86 E. 1 m. plus y 2 m., S. 86 E. 2 m., beginning of Course the Snow Mount right ahead. S. 85 E. 1 m. plus y-2 m., S. 88 E. 1 m. plus 1^ m., 58 N. 86 E. y 2 m., N. 60 E. y 2 m., N. 50 E. J4 m., N. 68 E. 1-6, E. l l / 2 m., N. 80 E. 1 m, plus 1 m., plus y$ m., plus 1-6. At end of Course. Put up at 5^ P. M. On the left a few oaks and much of it all day, but only in a thin ledge. Course for the morrow S. 86 E. 3 m. Traded a few berries. Our salmon is almost all spoilt. The Mountain bears S. 81 E. 20 m. (Observations omitted.)

July 27th, Saturday. 60 A fine but foggy morning. At 5.47 a. m. Set off, Co. S. 86 E. 3 m. plus y 2 m., N. 73 E. 1 m., from y 4 m - of Co. on the opposite side of the river about y\ m. below us there is a remarkable isolated rock 61 like a Wind- mill of about 90 feet height ; a little above, about 300 yds., a rock covered with sod resembling a House of one story with a door in the middle. 61 From this place our campment bears of going to the Sea 82 E. 1 m., Course N. 73 E. y 2 m., N. 50 E. y 2 m., N. 48 E. 2^ m. Course N. 48 E. \y 2 m. Op- posite end of course a brook 62 falls about 120 feet. Course N. 55 E. 2y 2 m. (This last Course from end of Course on looking back appears S. 55 W. 2y 2 m.) Co. plus y 2 m., Co. N. 35 E. y 4 m. Beginning of Course a brook 63 falls 40 feet; on the island at erid of Course put ashore at the same place

58 Point Vancouver at end of this course.

60 They travel today against a very strong current only about 18 miles and Mr. Thompson camps below Garrison Rapids at Bonneville on the Oregon side. Mr. Ross' account does not coincide with Mr. Thompson's entries. It is impossible to identify the islands noted because at extreme high water, then prevailing, parts of the main land became islands.

61 Rooster Rock and two of the Pillars of Hercules. When viewed under similar conditions these appear very true to the description today.

62 Multnomah Falls, actually about 620 feet high; probably Mr. Thompson's sail and the growth of timber obstructed his view.

63 Oneonta, also called Horsetail Falls.

JOURNAL OF DAVID THOMPSON 111

where we boiled Salmon going- down. At 1.20 P. M. set off, having cooked Salmon etc. and arranged our Arms. Course N. 46 E. 1 m., Co. plus N. 46 E. 1-3 m., N. E. y^ t N. 5 W. Y%, for these Courses cannot see anything, but they are put down to bring up a Chart of the Isles. Co. N. 45 E. 1-6, N. 55 E. ^4. I must here give over as I cannot see for the sail. At the mouth of the little Channel took in sail and I took the Courses, but from whence I left off to this place may be about N. E. 24 or so with an Island, on ). Co. N. E. 1-3 m., N. 30 E. 14, N. 25 E. %, N. 10 E. y 2 , R., N. 60 E. 1-3, N. 18 E. y 2 . At end of Course put up at Sy 2 P. M. as we are close to the Great Rapid 64 and the houses, pray Good Providence send me well up it. A canoe with a blind good old Chief came to us and smoked, also 2 canoes that passed and went to the Village. We requested them to bring us some Salmon, which they promised, but not coming at all made us suspect some treachery and I had the canoes loaded, ready for any occasion.

July 28th, Sunday. 65 A fine blowy morning. At 5.5 A. M. set off. Co. S. 55 E. y 4 m. R. plus >4 m. R. Here we met 4 men with 7 Salmon, we put ashore and boiled do. They, as well as the others, enquired about the Smallpox, of which a report had been raised, that it was coming with the white me'n and that also 2 men of enormous size to overturn the Ground etc. ; we assured them the whole was false, at which they were highly pleased, but had not Kootanaes 66 been under our immediate care, she would have been killed for the lies she told on her way to the Sea. At 7^4 A - M - se t off, Co. N. 78 E. y 2 m. S. C. 67 We kept on by the line and paddle, sev-

64 The Cascades.

65 The day is spent in lining up as far as the portage (which began just below Sheridan's Point) and carrying their goods and canoe around the Cascades, a distance of 1450 yards according to Mr. Ross. Both portage and camp at night are on the Washington side. For excellent map of the Cascades and this portage consult Capt. Clark's sketch map opposite page 172, Vol. 3 of L. & C. Journals, Dodd-Mead, 1905 edition.

66 These are the two female Indians disguised as men who had appeared at Astoria bearing a letter from Finan McDonald to Mr. Stuart and described by Franchere, Irving and Mr. Ross. Mr. Thompson makes no other mention of them in these notes, but in his "narrative" of later date he describes them at length, and one as of loose character who took on the guise of a sorceress.

67 Garrison Rapids.

112 T. C ELLIOTT

eral bad places. One of the wood canoes nearly filled. The Indians assisting with good will. Co. to the portage N. 70 E. 1 m. by 9:50 A. M. Here we waited Mr. Stuart's Canoes till noon and then set off, Mr. Stuart employing a number of Indians to aid in carrying the Goods, Canoes etc. We carried 20' and then put down, when all was got forward to this place we set off again and carried about 400 yards farther. The Co. may be N. 1 m. By 2% P. M., when Mr. Stuart was to pay the Indians, they could not be known who had carried from those who had 'not, and much Tobacco was given, yet the Indians were highly discontented ; they all appeared with their 2 pointed Dags, and surrounded us on the land side, their appearance very menacing; Mr. Stuart set off with a few to get his Canoes brought, which they refused to do till better paid. When gone, I spoke to the Chiefs of the hard usage they gave Mr. Stuart and reasoning with them, they sent off all the young men. We loaded and went up 3 strong points with the Line and paddle. Co. N. 52 W. y^ m. and put up close to end of Co. Here we went back and brought up Mr. Stuart's canoes, and, Thank Heaven, put up all together though late. These people are a mixture of kindness and treachery. They render any service required, but demand high payment, and ready to enforce their demands, Dag in hand. They steal all they can lay their hands on, and from every appearance only our number and Arms prevented them from cutting us all off. This was their plan as we were afterwards informed, though not agreed to by all, and they perhaps only wait a better opportunity.

July 29th, Monday. 68 A fine morning. Went and fetched a light canoe of Mr. Stuart's and at 6.5 A. M. set off. Co. 80 W. 1-3 m., N. W. 1-6, N. #, N. 42 E. 1-5, N. 15 E. 1-7 ( ?), N. E. 1-5, N. 1-3, S. 35 E. #, N. 35 E. %, N. 42 E. 1 m., N. 25 E. 1-3, N. E. y 2 . % m. short of Course crossed the River, as the appearance of 2 canoes that followed us was hostile, with their always shouting to show where we were,

68 They proceed today about 24 miles, crossing the river twice, to a camp at evening near the mouth of the Little White ^Salmon on north side. The Point of Pine is probably just below the mouth of Wind river.

JOURNAL OF DAVID THOMPSON 113

which was answered by a number on shore. As the land was inundated they could not approach us, but we were drawing near a Pt. of Pine where the land was dry and good for an ambush. We accordingly crossed North ^4 m - an d put ashore to boil salmon etc. at 10.40 A. M. From hence the E. pt of the Rapid bears S. 22 W., and the place where we slept S. 26 W. 3^ m. Co. at iy 2 P. M. N. 70 E. 1-6, N. 62 E. #, N. 58 E. 1-5, N. 78 E. 2*/ 2 m., S. 82 E. 1 m. Plus 1 m., N. 86 E. y 4 , N. 78 E. 1 m. plus y 4 m., N. 62 E. 1 m. plus 1% m., plus iy 2 m. or to the other side Co. N. 67 E. A little of Co. gone put up at 6y 2 P. M., late 4 Indians in a canoe came and camped with us, they are going to buy horses.

July 30, Tuesday. 69 A fine morning, head wind. At 5^ A. M. set off, Co. N. 67 E. 3 m., N. 70 E. 1 m. End of Co. at 8.5 A. M. put ashore and boiled Salmon. Plenty of Oak but like all we have seen, stunted. Set off and crossed the River N. 3 W. 1 m. to a brook 70 at 10*4 A. M. where we smoked with a few Chawpatins. We sight a Mountain 71 at the head of the Brook, Narmeneet, and from the mouth of this Brook set a Mountain, 72 bears S. 3 W. 30 m. At 10.40 A. M. set off, Co. S. 72 E. iy 2 plus y 2 m. S. 82 E. y 2 , N. 85 E. 1 m. plus 1.4 m., N. 84 E. 1 m., N 70 E. Ij4 m., N. 72 E. 5-6. At middle of Course camped at 6% P. M. to split out oars, paddles etc. etc. but found the wood bad etc.

July 31st, Wednesday. 73 At 5.2 A. M. set off, ended Course, then Co. N. 72 E. 1% m. Beg. of Course steep fluted Rocks like Pillars with quite perpend. Strata, some Pillars are loos- ened and broke and stand like stumps, 74 no horizontal strata. The rock is of a grey black. Co. S. 86 E. 1% m., East 1*4 m.

69 Another day of slow progress. The camp at night seems to have been on Eighteen-Mile Island, near the Oregon side and below Memaloose Isle.

70 White Salmon river.

71 Mt. Adams.

72 Mt. Hood.

73 Mr. Thompson now leaves the Stuart party and travels rapidly. The Dalles portage is on the Oregon side from Big Eddy to upper end of Ten-Mile Rapid. The camp at evening is at upper end of this portage. Mr. Stuart personally accompanies the party to inspect the portage but returns; and the two Kootenaes remain with his people.

74 Just below Memaloose Island and on the Washington bank many of these stone stumps were blasted away in the construction of the North Bank railroad, but some remain.

114 T. C. ELLIOTT

S. C. N. 85 E. 2-3 m. All these Courses are high steep perpend. Rocks. S. 85 E. 1 m. These Courses are well taken but the distances are not quite so, as the Ground is on fire and very smoky. S. 75 E. % m., S. 72 E. 1 m. At 7.25 A. M. at beginning of Co. where we gummed going to the Sea. S. 43 E. 1J4 m., S. 24 E. y 2 m. at end of Course at 8^ A. M. to the Portage Road, 75 the Course continues 1^ m. I sent our interpreter Indian for Horses, he brought them, with salmon, we boiled do., and set off at iy 2 P. M. By 3)4 P. M. got all across, we walked smartly, the distance is full 4*/ 2 m. Here we had scarcely set down the things etc. than word was brought that one of the Chiefs was gathering his Band to seize all our Arms from us. This brought on some sharp words, which, thank Providence, ended well for us. I asked for Salmon which they brought to 13, major part for Mr. Stuart. We passed a very bad night with a storm of wind, drifting sand and rogues walking about us all night to steal, they cut our line, though fastened to the Ponies, and got off with about 2y 2 fm of do.

Aug. 1st, Thursday. 76 A fine morning. Had a little trouble to get our Indian Interpreter to come with us. At 5 A. M. set off, Co. N. 18 E. 1% m, N. 58 E. 1 m. Passed an Isle 77 with Houses for the Dead. S. 75 E. 1-3 to a Village of about 15 meh. Smoked with them. Co. S. 76 E. \y 2 m. part line. S. 88 E. 2 m., S. C. to a Village of 20 men. Boiled Salmon. N. 72 E. 2 T / 2 m. y 2 m., gone a strong Rapid, the line and handed, on to the Indians. The name of the great River 78 in the great Bay, or possibly the great Isle, is Ween vow we. Near end of Course stopped 1 hour with about 120 men, then finished Course S. C. Co. N. 78 E. 2-3 m., N. 68 E. 1-6, N. 55 E. 1-5, N. 48 E. 5-6. The Rocks here ( ?) to have still the same perpend. Pillar-like strata, but many much

75 Big Eddy.

76 Mr. Thompson ascends the Celilo Rapids, then inundated, at best advan- tage, on the north side and follows that side of the river until he crossed to a camping place between Rufus and Grants on the Oregon side. No attempt is made to designate the numerous rapids along the upper river.

77 Miller's Island above Celilo.

78 The Deschutes river.

JOURNAL OF DAVID THOMPSON 115

cracked horizontally. N. 85 E. 1-3. At end of Course carried about 10 yds., then Co. N. 67 E. 1 m. to a Village of 15 men, here we smoked with them, then Co. N. 58 E. 1^ S. C. Co. + 1*4 m. always steep rocky banks. N. 56 E. 1-5 m., N. 54 E. lJ/ m. plus "fa m. Water has fallen about 10 feet perpend, since we passed. Co. N. 55 E. 1 m. + /4 m - Note this Co. is almost rubbed out and is perhaps N. 55 E. 45 E. to the camp of the Malada. Stopped ^4 hours, then Co. N. 53 E. 1^2 m., N. 62 E. 2-3 when we crossed S. 15 E. ^ m. and in aft. put up at 6% P. M. A Gale ( ?), the sand drifting, little wood, but very quiet (?) Where we crossed the Current, though moderate on the North side, was very strong in the Middle, with shoal rocks and swift on the shore we are. All the land very sandy, without any mixture of earth, and the woods so scarce that all the bits we could gather was barely sufficient to boil a salmon. Everything is full of sand.

August 2nd, Friday. 79 A fine blowy morning, at 5 :05 A. M. set off after having gummed. Course N. 25 E. 1 1-6 m. S. C. Muscle Rapid. Very many of those shells. At end of Co. a Ho. of six men etc. on an island close below about 50 men in a small village, opposite above about 20 men in a small village. We lined up end of Co., then N. 30 E. l^J m., y 2 m. of Course gone opposite where we camped going to the sea, and a river of 80 yards wide on this side named Forks Pass. 80 Course N. 55 E. y* m., S. R. N. 65 E. 1 m., S. R. lined up, measured a salmon of 4 feet 4 inches long and 2.4 inches circumference. He is a fine large fish, rather above the com- mon size. Still along the steep rocky strata with rocky grassy hills rising above and going off in vast plains, though very unequal the first strata may be 100 feet high of the different rocks, the other about 800 feet. Boiled fish. We then set off, two men crossed among the rocky rapids, which is always been since morning of the middle of channel. They seemed hurt that we did not stop at their villages and give them the

79 Mr. Thompson travels about 25 miles today, passing many rapids and small islands, to a camping place near or opposite to Blalock Station, Oregon. He seems to have crossed to the north side again.

80 John Day rivr.

116 T. Cr ELLIOTT

news of our voyage, of which they are all very fond. Course rubbed out, N. 85 E. distant y 2 m. plus 1^4 m., East 1-6 m., S. 88 E. y 2 m., Course rubbed out. N. 40 E. 2-3 m., S. 52 E. 2 m., S. 56 E. y 2 m. Smoked at a village of 20 men and then held in Course S. 56 E. \y 2 m. Course S. 65 E. \y 2 m. End of course a river 81 of about 60 yards named Now-wow-ee. Course N. 82 E. y 2 m. Passed five Hos. on an Island etc. Course N. 75 E. y 2 m. drawn to the south'd instead of the

north'd \- % m. plus 1 m., N. 70 E. y 2 m. End of course,

Village of thirty men, from \y 2 P. M. to 3^ P. M. Course N 65 E. 2y 2 m. No naked women in this last dance, they were tolerably clothed. To a village of fifteen men, stayed about an hour. Course plus 1 m, plus 1 m, plus ^4 m - Course N. 70 E. 1*4 m. End of Course put up at 6:40 P. M. with about 12 horsemen in company, average number of their winter hab- itation. Observation for latitude and time, Latitude by ac- count 45 42' 52" N.

It may be remarked here that all the observations made going to the sea was with a com. watch that we'nt very badly losing time. On my return also with a com. watch that went tolerably well. The wind always blowing a gale.

August 3rd, Saturday. 82 A fine morning. At 4-24 A. M. set off. Course as yesterday, N. 65 E. 1 m., N. 70 E. 1>< m., N. 76 E. 1 m. plus 1 m, N. 50 E. 1-6 m, N. 32 E 1 m., N. 18 E. 2 m., N. 64 E. 1 m, (+ ) y 2 m A village of about 100 men at 7 :20 A. M. At 9 :27 A. M. embarked, Course plus 1 m., plus 2 m., plus ^ m., N. 50 E. 1*4 m. Put ashore one hour to gum. Course at 11:45 A. M. N. 55 E. y 2 m., N. 50 E. 1-3 plus 2 m. Before this last course the last 4 m. only a line of rock with large pts. etc. 83 The hills have retired especially on the south side. The last 2 miles low meadow banks and shores bold in places but retiring. 4 m - of the 2 m. gone a river opposite named A-hoaks-pa. 84 Course + 1 m.,

8 1 Probably a stream on north side called Rock Creek near railroad station named Fountain.

82 Mr. Thompson travels nearly forty miles today and his camp at evening is probably near Coyote station in Oregon.

83 Above Arlington, Oregon.

84 Willow creek in Oregon.

JOURNAL OF DAVID THOMPSON 117

+ 1 m., N. 80 E. 1 m., N. 75 E. 1-3 m., N. 62 E. y* m., N. 63 E. iy 2 m., + 1 m., N. E. 1% m., N. 70 E. iy 2 m., to a village of 12 men, stopped forty minutes. Course + 1 m., to our old campment going- down. Course plus 1 m., N. 65 E. 1-3 m., N. 55 E. J4 m., (something rubbed out here), N. E. 2-3 m., N. 50 E. y 2 m., N. 40 E. 1-5 m., N. 30 E. y 2 m., plus 1-6 m. Course N. 28 E. 2-3 m., N. 27 E. 1 m. At end of course camped at 7^ P. M. Strong sail wind in the evening. Many Indians in company with the last villages and gave us a dance.

August 4th, Sunday. 85 . A fine morning, gummed. At 5.5 A. M. set off, Course N. 23 E. 1 m., N. 42 E. 1 m. plus 1 m., North 58 E. 1 m. Here I end the Course for the present as it blows very hard, and I cannot see on account of the sail. We turned alo'ng the land about S. 70 E. 1 m., an island near on the ) shore, then along the point, about S. 80 E. 2 m., east say 1 m. ; here the wind became more fair and I again took the course N. 82 E. 2-3 m., N. 56 E. 2 m., N. 75 E. l}/ 4 m., N. 70 E. 1-5 m., N. 68 E. y 2 m, N. 60 E. 2-3 m., N. 50 E. 2-3 m., plus 1-3, N. 68 E. 1 m., beginning of Course at house of 5 men. End of course a rapid, lined up 200 yards, steep rocks and many rattle-snakes. Course N. 80 E. 2^ m. The la'nds now heightened especially on the ( , level on the ) . End of course strong rapids, lined up 200 yards, then N. 60 E. 2y-2 m. From end of this course the point of Rattlesnake Rock bears S. 55 W. 4*4 m. distant, at middle of course the line fairly clears the point on the ) side and this ought to be the real course, the others are not correct as the two courses ought to form a deep, regular bay. Course S. 85 E. y& m , N. 80 E. 1 m., N. 75 E. j m., N. 72 E. 1 m. Beginning of course a rapid and a remarkable table rock 86 isolated on the ), also a village of 30 men on the island, 87 smoked with

85 About 35 miles' travel today including Devil's Bend Rapids and Umatilla Rapids, alongside which were found the same rattlesnakes that had troubled Lewis and Clark in 1806. No mention made of Umatilla river. The camp at evening is on north side opposite Juniper Canyon.

86 A well known landmark known as Mill Rock or Hat Rock. Consult map and journal of Lewis and Clark for mention of this same rock.

87 Probably Switzler's Island.

118 T. C. ELLIOTT

a few who crossed to us, plus J^ m. Course N. 65 E. 1-5 m., N. 60 E. 2-3 m., plus 1 m., N. 52 E. 2 m. At 6:40 P. M. put up near end of course. At \ l / 2 M. gone Observation for longitude and time. Latitude by account 45 54^4' N.

August 5th, Monday. 88 . A fine morning, again gummed. At 5:15 A. M. set off. All our gum quite expended and 'no woods whatever so that we must go without that most neces- sary article and our canoe is very leaky. Finished course, then + 1 m., N. 43 E. 1-3 m., N. 42 E. y 2 m., N. 30 E. # m., N. 33 E. 1-3 m., N. 28 E. 2^4 m., beginning of course boiled salmon and shaved. Course N. 42 E. 1 m. We now see no agate along shore as below. These lands are wholly com- posed of strata of rock from 10 to 30 feet thick, and there are the upper strata of about 20 feet of pillar like rock, this is often like the flutes of an organ at a distance, its strata seems perpendicular and is often split in pieces. The pillars are split also in various directions as if broken or cracked by a violent blow. This rests in a strata of black rude rock as per speci- mens of both. These two different kinds of rock lie alternately one on another to the bed of the river which is mostly of the black rock, though sometimes of the pillar rock. The black rock appears always to have the thickest bed, the last 100 feet is covered with splinters of the upper rocks sometimes to a good depth. The surface of the upper rocks forms what is called the plains. This is covered with pure sand through which the rocks appear everywhere and bears scanty grass round, hard and in tufts, with a few shrubs and thistles of 1 to 5 feet high. Course N. 5 E. j m., N. 5 W. ft m. The whole is about 350 to 400 feet high. On the ) these rocks finish with this course and are all of deep strata as per the 2 specimens. The rock is rude black rock, often shows from 2 to 3 lines ( ?) in the strata or bed, the same strata almost always inclining to the west'd and sometimes descending in a curve and then as- suming a horizontal line. This strata sometimes 40 feet deep

88 Mr. Thompson passes north through Wallula Gap and reaches the Indian camp at the mouth of Snake river, where he had planted his formal notice on the 9th of July, on his way down the river. Mr. Ross says that on the morning of August 1 4th they found this notice attached to a pole which flew the British flag in the midst of this Indian camp.

JOURNAL OF DAVID THOMPSON 119

and many pieces stand isolated like tables, and pillars etc. The pillar like rock has always its chasms perpendicular and split in pieces as by accident, in every horizontal direction. It appears to be one compact bed having 'no lines in it that are not perpendicular and the depth of its bed is as far as 30 feet. One must say that the finger of the Deity has opened by im- mediate operation the passage of this river through such solid materials as must forever have resisted its action. The tops have mouldered away and the fragments form the beach etc. ; there is no appearance of any earth but in a few places where water springs up and the grass etc. have formed a vegitable mould of no depth, and even this is rarely found. Course N. 12 W. 1 m. Course N. 5 W. 1 1-16 m. end of course. A village on the ) of 25 men. We have besides passed 3 do. each of about the same number of men. Course N. 12 W. 2-5 m., N. 22 W. 1-5 m., N. 35 W. 1-3 m., N. 25 W. 1 m., N. 10 W. 1-5 m., N. 18 W. % m., N. 35 W. ^ m, N. 28 W. 2-3 m., beginning a course a village of 12 men in this. N. W. 1-6 m., N. 52 W. y & m., N. 60 W. \y 4 m., N. 55 W. 1-6 m., N. 50 W. 1-6 m., N. 18 W. 1 m., N. 36 W. 1 m, N. 33 W. % m., N. 25 W. 1-6 m., N. 32 W. 1-5 m., N. 38 W. 1-5 m., plus 1 m., N. 56 W. 1 m., N. 60 E. y^ m., N. 70 E. 1 m. Middle of course and at the point of the tents N. 20 E. 2-3 m., to which we camped at 6-40 P. M. with about 200 men at least, who gave us a dance and behaved very well. Thank Heaven for the favors we find among these numerous people.

August 6th, Tuesday. 89 A fine cloudy night and morning. Traded a horse for our guide. Paid him as per agreement. Wrote a letter to Joco Finlay to send and meet us with horses etc. At 7^2 A. M. embarked, Course up the Shawpatin River N. 15 E. 1 m. plus y^ m., N. 32 E. y, m., N. 35 E. % m., N. 37 E. 1% m, N. 40 E. 1-3 m., N. 55 E. 1-6 m., N. 60 E. V/2 m., N. E. 1-6 m., N. 32 E. 1-6 m., N. 23 E. 1 m. plus 1-3 m. All very strong current from the Columbia. N. 50

89 Mr. Thompson decides to hasten on overland instead of by the tortuous and slower river route. He writes to his clerk, Jacques Finlay, then in charge of Spokane House, and himself proceeds up Snake river to reach the regular Indian trail northward.

120 T. C. ELLIOTT

E. y 2 rn., N. 32 E. iy 2 m. End of course on island, 90 and village of 15 men; have also passed 4 Houses of each 6 men, traded salmon. N. 75 E. 1 m., N. 85 E. # m., N. 62 E. 1-6 m, N. 55 E. 1-6 m., N. 40 E. 1-5 rn., N 25 E 1-5 m., N. 81 E. y 2 m., N. 12 W. 1% m., N. 35 E. y 2 m., N. y 4 m., N. 5 E. y 2 m. Near end of course put up at 6 l / 2 P. M. with about 22 men who gave us a dance. The river has been regularly about 300 yards wide with strong, steady current. The water is very high, the tops of the willows just appearing. When low I should think full of rapids. The land very rude with rock and ravines, grass very scanty and the men in pass- ing the ravines broke the surface of the soil, the dust and sand rushed down as free to the look (?) as water, pouring down for a considerable time and raising a dusty smoke not to be seen through. The road lies close along the river and ascends and descends continually, very rocky, by no means such a country as the Columbia above. The salmon small and very fine.

August 7th, Wednesday. A fine clear morning, a little dis- tant thunder. At 4:50 A. M. set off. Course N. 5 E. 1 in., N. 13 E. 14 m., plus y 2 m., N. 75 E. 1 m. plus 2-3 m. End of Course. Stopped about 2 hours at a village of 15 men, gummed and boiled salmon. Course N. E. 1-6 m., N. 35 E. 1-5 m., N. 25 E. ft m., N. 12 E. ft m., N. 15 W. 1-6 m., N. 15 E. 1-6 m., N. 6 E. y 2 m., N. 35 E. 1-3 m., N. E. ft m., N. 5 E. y 2 m., N. 12 E. 1-6 m., N. 25 E. 1 m., N. 10 W. y 2 m. Middle of course Observation for latitude 119 47^2 vg. Variation 18 degrees E. vg. N. 22 W. 2-3 m., N. 10 E. 1 m., E. 1 1-16 (doubtful) N. 12 W. 1ft m. A House Nobody. Course N. 10 W. 1-6 m., N. 10 W. ft m., N. 5 E. 1 m., All R. N. 18 E. 1 m., part R., plus ft m - N. 25 E. 1-6 m., N. 33 E. 4-5 m., S. E. 1-5 Course N. 8 E. 1ft m., including one crossing the river. We put up at end of course in company with 8 horsemen. Course for the morrow is N. 50 E. 1 m., Obs. for Long, and time.

90 Probably Squaw Island, nine miles from the Columbia.

JOURNAL or DAVID THOMPSON 121

Aldebaran Aquilae. Jupiter etc.

11811J4W. 52. 28. 45

119. 13 W. 118. 20^4 W.

Lat. by Obs. at noon 46 25' 23" Acct. from Obs. 46 33^

August 8th, Thursday. A very fine morning, at 5.5 A. M. set off. Course N. 50 E. 1 m., plus 1 m., N. 55 E. 1-5 m., N. 30 E. % m., N. 50 E. y 2 m., N. 5 W. y 2 m., N. 12 E. 1-5 m., N. 25 E. 1-6 m., N. 50 E. 1-5 m., plus 1-6 m., N. 70 E. 1-5 m., N. 75 E. % m., N. 85 E. 1-6 m., S. 76 E. 2 m., S. 85 E. 1-5 m., E. y s m., N 84 E. 3/ 4 m., N. 76 E. 1-6 m, N. 55 E. y s m., N. 42 E. 1 m. plus 1 m., N. 62 E. iy 2 m., S. 63 E. 1 m. (+) YA m. Observed for Latitude and cooked salmon. Meridian altitude 118 51^4 vg. Var. 19 E. vg. Course plus y 2 m., S. 70 E. 1-5 m., S. 82 E. 1-5 m., N. 85 E. 1-5 m., N. 66 E. ft m., N. 47 E. 1 m., S. 75 E. 2-3 m. Beginning of course see the Blue Mountains, 91 between the Shawpati'n and the Snake Indians bearing S. 60 E. 40 m. Course S. 72 E. 1-3 m., S. 85 E. *4 m - At end of course, put ashore at the mouth of a small brook 92 and camped, as this is the road to my first Post on the Spokane lands. Here is a village of 50 men, they had danced till they were fairly tired and the Chiefs had bawled themselves hoarse. They forced a present of 8 horses on me, with a war garment.

Obs. for Long, and time etc. Lat. at noon 46 36' 26".

Sun 16 15' 13" vg. 7.50.

Aquilae Fomalhaut. Aldebaran

15 21' 51" 15 30' 5" 15 41' 24"

118 22%' W 119'21^'W. 1 118 50^' W.

Lat. by Obs. 46 36'

91 Apparently the first record of this name Blue as applied to these mountains.

92 After three days' travel up the monotonous Snake river Mr. Thompson arrives at the mouth of the Palouse river (Lewis and Clark's Drewyer's river). This was an established Indian crossing and camping place, and later became the crossing of the famous "Mullan Road," surveyed by Capt. John Mullan, U. S. A., afterward Lyons Ferry, and now the site of a steel railroad bridge. Here John Clarke of the Pacific Fur Company, in the summer of 1812, introduced corporal punishment in "Old Oregon," by hanging an Indian who had com- mitted the crime of petit larceny. Consult "Adventures," etc., by Ross Cox.

122 T. G. ELLIOTT

August 9th, Friday. 93 A fine day, wi'nd, a gale South'd. Observed for Long., Time and Lat. (Observations omitted.) It was late before the horses could be collected and I left one they could not find. They said the Chief below knew how to talk but not how to act. They declared they did not wish for any return for the present of Horses, but that they knew the nature of a present. I gave each of them Notes for the Horses ; to be paid when the ca'noes arrive. At 5 P. M. set off and held up on the Brook, cutting off the great Pt. till \\y 2 P. M. when we camped. Co. N. 5 E. \y 2 m., Brook at 1 m. crossed, end of Co. went up the banks. Course N. 20 E. 14 m., last 1 m. along the Brook. The land very rocky and full of rocky hills cut Perpend, wherever the rocks show themselves, and exactly of the same kind of rocks as along the Columbia, with much fragments in splinters etc. Very bad for the horses and the soil a sandy fine impassable powder which suffocated us with dust and no water to drink to where we camped.

August 10th, Saturday. 94 A fine, cloudy, blowy day. At 7 l /4 A. M. set off and held on at N. 10 E. 5 m., then crossed a shoal Brook of 6 yds. wide from the East. Held on Course + 2y 2 m. and baited at 11J4 A. M. At 1 P. M. set off and held on say 2*4 m. A Brook came in from the N. E., held on up the left Brook and put up at 6 P. M., say Co. N. 8 m. The appearance of the country is much the same, though some- what less rude, and there is often a few Aspi'ns, Alders, with a very rare Fir along the Brook, much wild cherry and three sorts of currants, one sweet and red, the other yellow, acid; red light acid.

August llth, Sunday. 95 A very fine day mostly cloudy. At 7y A. M. set off Course up the Brook N. 10 E. 2 l / 2 m., where we crossed a Rill from the N. W'd. We kept on along

93 The established Indian trail of later years coincides exactly with Mr. Thompson's description. It followed the Palouse river for a mile, then crossed and ascended the steep ridge and cut across the bend of the river. The camp that night was near the mouth of Cow creek.

94 It is a little uncertain whether Mr. Thompson followed up Cow creek or Rock creek (in Whitman county. Washington), but his camp at evening was southeast of the town of Sprague, Lincoln county. In the summer of 1812 Ross Cox lost his way on this trail, for which consult his "Adventures."

95 Following closely what afterward became the wagon road from Walla Walla to Colville Mr. Thompson reaches the timber belt south of Cheney, Wash- ington, and camps some distance southwest of that city.

JOURNAL OF DAVID THOMPSON 123

a Rill of water in the Spring, now dry, North 9^4 m. to a little water among some poplars and willows. It is a long" time since we saw any here ; we baited from J^ P. M. to 2 :20 P. M. We then went off North 1 m. N. 20 W. \y 2 m. to a kind of lead of wet ground. Hereabouts are Willow Bushes and see woods before us. Held on Co. N. 15 E. 6^2 m. For the last 2 m. we had a kind of Brook or Ravine on our left. Camped at a Pond at 6^/2 P. M. Killed a Duck, our provisions being fairly done and fasting all day. Not seeing the people who were to have met us with provisions and horses we were obliged to kill a mare for food, as our Guide told us we had yet 3 days journey to go. The Country till 10 A. M. like the past, very Rocky and barren, since which it has much mended, and only stoney when on wet low ground, the rest is tolerably well for grass, and the soil appears good, though parched for wanting rain, which rarely or never falls during the summer months. At the Campment the Firs are thinly scattered along the kind of Ravine, all the rest is all wide plain without a tree. A few Chevruil Tracks and dung.

August 12th, Monday. 96 A fine day. At 6:20 A. M. set off. Held on along a line of woods on our Co. about N. 1 m., to a pond of some size, then N. 50 E. 4 m., N. 30 E. 5 m. and stopped at 11^ A. M. to bait the horses, among a few ponds and good grassy lands with thin woods. At 1 P. M. set off and camped at a Rill at 6% P. M., say Co. N. 30 E. 1 m., N. 10 E. 7 m., across a large plain without water to the woods of a Brook. We descended the Banks, which are high, and crossed it about N. 10 W. 1 m., then along the Brook of 6 Yds, ) N. 10 W. 1 m. Here it sank 97 in the ground and we went North 1J4 m. and camped at a Rill to which we were guided by a Spokane we met, from whom we got a little dried salmon.

96 Passing through the Four Lakes country between Cheney and Medical Lake, in Spokane county, Washington, Mr. Thompson crosses Deep creek and camps on Coulee creek, only an hour's ride from his destination had he been aware of it.

97 Deep creek sinks on Sec. 3, Township 25 N., Range 41 E., W. M.

124 T. C. ELLIOTT

August 13th, Tuesday. 98 A very fine day. At Sy 2 A. M. set off and at 6y 2 A. M. arrived at the House. Thank God for His mercy to us on this journey. Found all safe but Joco was with the horses sent to meet us. Late in the evening he ar- rived. Our course was about northwest 3 miles. We came faster but our road was always down hill.

112 degrees 17 minutes 30 seconds. N. Lat. 47 degrees 47 minutes 2 seconds.

EDITOR'S FURTHER NOTE.

Our transcript of the journal ends with the entry of August 13th, 1811. After spending four days at Spokane House Mr. Thompson continued on overland to Ilthkoyape or Kettle Falls where he proceeded to build another canoe of cedar boards. It may be remarked that when at Spokane House in June, 1811, he had given instructions to his clerk Finan McDonald to explore the Columbia from Ilthkoyape north during the sum- mer, which Mr. McDonald did as far up as Death Rapids (Dalles des Mort), i. e., to forty or fifty miles above Revel- stoke, B. C., and then returned. Mr. Thompson was under appointment to meet about Oct. 1st the party sent across the mountains with trading goods from Fort William on Lake Superior. He therefore again embarked at Kettle Falls early in Sept. and ascended the river through the Arrow Lakes and the various rapids to the mouth of Canoe river, where he had camped the previous winter, thus completing the exploration and survey of the entire length of the Columbia river from source to mouth between April and October, 1811. The trans- mountain party were delayed in arriving and did not bring all the goods for the trade, so he started one canoe down the river and himself crossed the Athabasca Pass for the remainder, returned and hurried down the Columbia and from Kettle Falls portaged over to the Pend d'Oreille river and then trav- eled up that river a'nd our Clark Fork river to his Saleesh House among the Flathead Indians, arriving there about the 20th of November. This completed his activities during the year 1811.

98 Mr. Thompson arrives today at Spokane House, which was located nine

miles northwest of present city of Spokane and had been erected there the

previous summer, 1810, presumably by Jacques Finlay who is in charge. Mr. Thompson remains here several days to rest.

JOURNAL OF DAVID THOMPSON 125

This journal disproves entirely any previous conclusions that David Thompson was instructed to anticipate the arrival of the Astor or Pacific Fur Company at the mouth of the Co- lumbia and establish a trading post there. He carried no goods for that purpose and was not planning to meet any vessel there with goods, and during this spring of 1811 he did not "hurry."

It also throws some additional light upon the interesting question of who built the trading post known as "Spokane House." Examination of previous portions of the journal indi- cates that Jacques Finlay may have been the man.

A TRAGEDY ON THE STICKEEN IN '42

BY C. O. ERMATINGER.*

In looking over a bundle of letters left among his papers by my late father, who was in the Hudson's Bay Company's service in the early part of the present century, I came upon one from which the following account of a tragedy, which took place on the Stickeen in April, 1842, is taken. The letter bears date 1st February, 1843, and was written by John McLoughlin, then in charge of the Company's post at Fort Vancouver (on the Columbia) to my father, then living at St. Thomas, Upper Canada.

As public attentioh has lately been directed to the Stickeen (Prince Rupert), this tragic tale, though fifty-six years old, may be of interest, not only on account of the locus in quo, but as illustrative of the difficulties, dangers, mode of life and occasional mode of death of those in the company's service in those days. Were I a Gilbert Parker I might clothe the story in new and more thrilling language than that employed by the writer, who was almost a year after the event, writing not for effect, yet under whose cool reasoning and at times involved sentences, a depth of sorrowful, sometimes passion- ate, feeling is apparent. As it is, I have concluded to present it to the public, word for word, as the father of the murdered man has narrated the facts, omitting the full names of the chief culprits, out of consideration for possible descendants, and a few words either undecipherable or unfit for publication.

After a page and a half on other matters, Mr. McLoughlin says:

"But, my dear sir, I have had a severe loss since I last wrote you. My son John, whom I think you saw at La Chine, has been murdered by the company's servants at the post of Stikine,

• Judge Ermatinger, who kindly furnishes this paper, is the son of Edward

Ermatinger, who was a clerk at Fort Vancouver under Dr. John McLoughlin during the years 1826-27; also the nephew of Francis Ermatinger, who was an officer in the H. B. Co. employ in the Columbia District for about twenty years, and well known by early Oregon pioneers, and who after retiring from the service purchased a tract of land near St. Thomas, Ontario, which he named "Multnomah," and there spent his remaining years. This paper contains source material not before printed explaining differences that lead to the retirement of Dr. McLoughlin from the Hudson's Bay Company's service. T. C. Elliott.

A TRAGEDY ON THE STICKEEN IN '42 127

in the Russian Territory (and which we rent from them and of which he had charge), on the night 20/21 April. He had twenty-two men and was the o'nly officer there, in consequence of Sir George Simpson's very improperly taking away his assistant as no place on this coast where liquor is issued ought to have less than two officers. (But since the murder the Russians have agreed to desist selling or giving spirits to Indians and as we only issued liquor where we came in contact with them, by this agreement a stop is entirely put to issuing liquor to Indians in this department). But to return to my poor son he being alone with twenty-two men, all of which were new hands not yet broke in to the discipline neces- sary for such service, as it was a new place a'nd where they could get rum, had a good many difficulties with them, as is always customary in such cases, to make them do their duty as you well know they will always attempt to impose on their master.

"Sir George Simpson arrived four days after this fatal event and, instead of examining every man at the place, and that minutely, he only examined six, say, two whites, two half breeds and two Owhyhees. The two whites, and half breeds, without specifying particulars, complain of my son's ill using the men, flogging and beating them most unmercifully that he drank a great deal, and that the night of the murder he gave the men a gallon and a half of spirits. Sir George believed all this and in his letter blames my son, and, though one of the Owhyhees swore he saw the murderer fire and saw something fall heavily, which he supposes was my son, and the other swears that on hearing the shot he looked out and saw my son lying on the ground, weltering in his gore, and the man whom the other saw fire, with his foot on my son's throat yet Sir George took no person to bear evidence against the murderer and sent one of the men who fired three shots at one of the men, thinking he was my son, to this place to be sent out of the country. But, as I felt dissatisfied with Sir George's examination and was certain the circum- stances were not as he represented, I kept this man to be sent

128 C. O. ERMATINGER

back to Stikine, to be examined with the rest; a'nd, in the meantime, for fear of his deserting, kept him on board the Cadboro, and on a trip to Vancouver Island, where he saw Douglas (I would not see him at this place, nor would I allow him put his foot in the Fort) to whom at once he con- fessed that there had been a plot formed and an agreement sighed, among all the people of the place, to murder the

deceased that this agreement had been drawn out by ,

who acted temporarily as assistant to the deceased that he had never seen him drink and in every material point con- tradicted the depositions taken by Sir George.

"I then determined to send Manson, with a complete new complement of men, to examine all the men, and, if this man's deposition was well founded, to put the men against whom there were charges, in prison and tra'nsfer them to the Russians, who alone can try them criminally and on examination the men say, the agreement to which the man alludes was not to murder my son, but a complaint against my son which they intended to present to Sir George who was momentarily expected. It is proved they never presented this complaint, and they say they destroyed it, because it was too dirty to be presented to Sir George Simpson; but on examining their complaints according to their own state- ment he flogged one man for sleeping on his watch in the night, and which he deserved, for it might have led to the mur- der of the whole establishment one man for righting and not being willing to cease fighting when ordered one man for giving his property to Indian women which disabled him from doing his duty, unless re-equipped and four for steal- ing. And the man who made the declaration to Mr. Douglas, and the murderer, are accused of having proposed repeatedly to the others to murder my son of which I do not know that any informed him, though it seems he knew it, as he is said to have said, "You want to murder me, but if you do, you will murder a man!"; and one of the men confesses that he was told by Ant Kawanasse, an Iroquois, that the murderer told him the deceased was to be murdered that

A TRAGEDY ON THE STICKEEN IN '42 129

night; and the woman he kept says he told her "H. (the murderer) wants to kill me." The deceased told the Owhyhees to arm themselves that the whites wanted to murder him that he took one of those he accused of being- leaders in the plot and put him in irons, and that in searching for the two others of the leaders, as he was going round the corner of a house, one of them shot him in the breast, when he fell, and the murderer rushed on him and put his foot on his neck, as I already mentioned and this M., who acted as his assist- ant, is now found to have committed several thefts on the store for which my son punished him and turned him out among the men but took him back again, as perhaps he found he could not do without an assistant, and perhaps he had promised to behave better; and he took him back on account of my having recommended him to the deceased on account of M.'s father, who is a'n old servant and it is now proved that this M. stole spirits the night of the murder and gave a

or bottle of pure spirits to every white man or Iroquois

in the place that while Mr. Dodd was in charge (whom Sir George left there) M. crept twice at night into Mr. Dodd's bedroom, when he was asleep, stole the key of the Fort, which was on a table between two pistols, within reach of Mr. Dodd's hand, opened the gate of the Fort, stole the key of the Indian trader's packet, while asleep, opened the Indian shop, and stole goods. If he could do this while there were two officers at the place, after what had just happened, what may he not have done when there was only one officer at the place, and he (M.) in league with the men as to the ill treatment of which they complain? Why, by their own confession, he was per- fectly justified in punishing them and did no more than what an officer of spirit would do to any under him who in such a situation as they were would act as these men did.

"Another whom Sir George examined, a son of J. H., is accused of having watched part of the night to murder the deceased because he flogged M. for stealing.

"Another of those Sir George examined is a Canadian to whom the deceased had given a kicking for stealing rum.

130 C. O. ERMATINGER

"The fourth is a Scotchman who acted in the store with M. and must have known his misconduct and said nothing of it and such a coward that, though he admits the deceased was most kind to him, still, though he saw the murderer level his gun sometime before to murder the deceased, he never in- formed him !

"As to his drinking, Mr. Finlayson, his assistant, says he never saw him take more than a glass of wine or a glass of spirits, or water, in the course of the day, though M. had the villainy to swear to Sir George that he and my son used to drink grog continually, and as he, M., could not join them in drinking grog, they allowed him wine which is false. The deceased's private store or allowance of liquors is almost in the same state as when he, Finlayson, left the deceased. The Indian woman he kept, a woman of the place, similar to our Chinooks, declares she never saw him drink and I believe what she says, as these Indians do not consider drunkenness a'ny way improper. Mr. Work and Dr. Kennedy, who had charge of posts on each side of him and several times saw Indians from the deceased, never heard a whisper of the deceased drinking, from the Indians (and they soon find out), though Mr. Work writes he heard from Indians of the attempt to shoot him. The men admit he was most vigilant and watchful, up night a'nd day visiting the watchmen often several times in the night. His journal is posted up to the day of his death, his accounts and documents in order and cer- tainly these are not the marks of a drunkard. And if you add to this his letters to Mr. Work are full of the miscon- duct of his assistants, M. and S. the Scotchman, a laborer, whom Sir George left when he took Finlayson away- -and in fact Sir George Simpson was the cause, though uninten- tionally, of the murder of my son, by taking Finlayson and leaving this man S. in his place. And Work is greatly to blame, who did not send me those letters my son wrote him, wherem he complains so much of the misconduct of S. and M. especially as he saw these fellows had so imposed on Sir George as to make him believe they were such valuable men

A TRAGEDY ON THE STICKEEN IN '42 131

as to induce him to promise them an increase of wages, while my son complained of them so much that he said, as his time was out, unless he had abler assistants, he would leave the service. The short and the long of the affair is this these fellows wanted to impose on my son, to which he would not submit. They, finding they could not make him berid, conspired and murdered him.

"My son John was intelligent, active had the faults of youth, was inconsiderate and thoughtless at least had been so, but this was wearing away. At the same time he had the good qualities and virtues of youth though I say it. He was frank, open, firm but kmd and generous ."

The father here breaks off from his painful subject, to refer to a pleasanter topic. I infer that all that the Russians did in consequence of the affair was to prohibit the selling or giv- ing spirits to Indians. One can hardly read the father's letter without feeling that his conclusions were probably just and accurate ; yet, at this day when flogging has gone so very much out of fashion, some will no doubt be disposed to think that poor John the younger's mode of enforcing necessary discipline contributed largely to bring about his tragic end. All will, however, join in the hope that murder and other crime will not hereafter go unpunished on the Stickeen or the regions round about, now being fast flooded with all sorts of characters from all quarters of the earth.

A letter from another officer of the H. B. Co.

Mr. Jno. Todd, dated 1 Sept., '42, touches upon this same tragedy :

"I was lately appointed in consequence of Manson's re- moval to Stickeen on the coast, where I regret to say a most tragical event occurred in April last, the particulars of which will no doubt eventually reach you thru' the public press. In the affidavits taken on the occasion it is stated that on the night of the 21st of that month Mr. John McLoughlin (eldest sob of the Big Doctor), was shot at by the whole of his men, including a young clerk, and a ball taking effect in his body he fell mortally wounded and died shortly after.

132 C. O..ERMATINGER

The knight, Sir George, arriving there in the steamer imme- diately after, thought proper to carry the ring leader of the affair along with him to Russia for the purpose of sending him thence a prisoner to England without even a single witness or document relative to the occurrence. He wrote also to the Doctor requesting him to say as little about the matter as possible, which so incensed the latter that he instantly dispatched a vessel to Stickeen for the express purpose of carrying the whole establishment prisoners to England in order to be brought to trial. He has also written a thundering epistle to their honours at home, concerning Sir George, rip- ping up old grievances and exposing the knight's conduct throughout, particularly his actions since the coalition. Yet behold how inconsistent men are. This very doctor only the year before gives 50 as a contribution for plate to the same Sir George Simpson whom he is now endeavoring to prove the greatest scoundrel in the H. Bay Co.'s territories, from facts, too, with which he was previously well acquainted."

Another officer also mentions the same subject, namely, Archibald McDonald, writing from Colville March 15, 1843 :

"Edward, we are all unfortunate parents. Instance, the awful shock of mind our old friend the Dr. lately experienced from the irregular and inveterate habits of his unhappy son John, after spending $2000 on his education in foreign lands, too." . . .

"Manson is again on the Coast. Last Summer the Wor- shipful Bench furnished him with a commission to inquire, or rather re-inquire, into the unfortunate affair of young McLoughlin at Stikine, which it was supposed Sir George on his trip for Siberia left incomplete. Work writes me our learned deputy has made a sweeping business of it upon very slight evidence made every white man at the establishment, 13 in number, prisoners. I fear we have got ourselves into a bobble and that it will turn out we are more au fait in our humble occupation of Indian traders than as the dispensary

of Her Majesty's criminal law." . . .

LETTERS

The following letters were found among the correspondence of Hon. James W. Nesmith, United States Senator from Oregon from March 4, 1861, to March 3, 1867, secured by the Oregon Historical Society several years ago.—The first,^[4] from General Ingalls, gives the viewpoint of an able officer of the United States army in 1864 regarding the necessity for constructing a good wagon road up the Columbia river—an enterprise which is now well under way, the expense of construction being defrayed by the counties through which it passes:

Headquarters Dist. of Oregon.

Fort Vancouver, W. T., June 11, 1861.

My Dear General:

Before this reaches you, events of the greatest magnitude will doubtless have taken place in the Eastern states, but I trust that our national Capitol will be in repose, and that the Congress of the United States may be undisturbed in their deliberations for the welfare of the Union. I need scarcely say, that I am for the preservation of this glorious Union; it must be preserved intact; not a single star shall fall from that brilliant galaxy—I have prayed that this difficulty might be settled peacefully, but if all the efforts of true patriots North and South fail to accomplish that desirable end, it must be crushed. Let those men, both North and South, who have been instrumental in bringing about this terrible state of affairs, be driven from their country, as unworthy citizens of the Republic.

I have no sectional prejudices; I love the whole country, North, South, East and West, and will fight to preserve this Union. I have no sympathy with any man, no matter from what section he may come, who is not for the Union, now and forever, one and indivisible.

I have served nearly thirty-nine years in the army, and whether battling with the savage foes in the far West, or deadly hummocks of Florida, or contending with the hosts of Mexico on many a well-fought and always victorious field, I have always turned with affection to my native land, and offered up a heartfelt prayer for the Union—God grant that this struggle may soon cease, and that peace may be restored,

134 GEORGE H. HIMES

and our glorious banner, with its thirty-four stars, proudly wave on every housetop from Maine to Texas, and from the Atlantic to our own loved Pacific shore.

The entire people in this country are for the Union. There may be some diversity of opinion as to the best mode of settling the difficulty, but all agree that it must be preserved.

If we, of the army, remain in this country, it is not probable that we shall be called upon for very active service. But seeing so many of their brother officers who happen to be in the East, promoted to high rank, it begins to arouse the spirit of the young military aspirants for distinction.

I was made a Colonel on the bloody field of Molino Sept. 8, 1847, but it was only a Brevet until March, 1855. But I have not rested very tranquil, under certain Brevets of my juniors, over me, and I shall not do so. Had I hailed from south of Mason and Dixon's line, I might have obtained a Brevet in 1858 ; but unfortunately, I was born in the frozen regions of the North. I cannot, however, now consent to be brought into active service without advancement; not that I could for a moment abandon my flag or country in this, her hour of peril, but I would prefer fighting in the ranks, to occupying a position without looking forward to preferment.

With great regard, very truly your friend,

G. WRIGHT. Gen. Nesmith, U. S. Senate,

Washington, D. C.

General George Wright was born in Vermont in 1803 and graduated from West Point in 1822. During the next nine years he served on the then Western frontier, largely among the Indians. In 1831 he was sent to Louisiana, remaining until 1836, when he took part in the Florida Indian war. He served with distinction in the Mexican war, and in 1852 came to the Pacific coast as a major in the Fifth infantry. He won great praise for his vigorous and effective campaign against the Indians of eastern Washington in 1858, and in 1860 suc- ceeded General William S. Harney in the command of the Military District of Oregon. In September, 1861, he was promoted to a brigadier general, and soon afterwards was ordered to relieve General Edwin V. Sumner at San Francisco.

LETTERS 135

In 1865 he was transferred to Oregon, and on his way thither, with his wife, to assume command, was lost at sea by the wreck of the ill-fated steamer Brother Jonathan, off the south- ern Oregon coast on July 31, 1865.

Headquarters Army of the Potomac, Office Chief Quartermaster,

Camp near Brandy Station,

March 23, 1864. Hon. J. W. Nesmith,

U. S. Senator, Washington. Sir:

Having served as quartermaster on the Columbia river at (Fort) Vancouver for many years, and having had to supply the troops at the Cascades, Forts Dalles and Walla Walla, and to fit out and supply many military expeditions against the Indians east of the Cascades, I have always felt deeply impressed with the necessity of having a good wagon road from Vancouver to The Dalles, probably passing the Cascade Mountains on the Oregon side of the Columbia.

There are many cogent reasons for such a road aside from those of economy.

In 1849 and 1850 the troops east of the Cascades were supplied by means of bateaus manned by Indians. It was necessary to send provisions, forage, hospital and ordnance supplies up the river 50 miles, then to make a difficult, laborious and expensive portage of four or five miles at the Cascades, and then to reship and forward by boats to The Dalles.

These supplies had to be sent before the cold and rough weather of winter. Frequently in winter season, navigation is interrupted below the Cascades, when there can be no com- munication with the now populous and important country east without great risk.

I have known all communications with The Dalles to be cut off for weeks by extreme cold weather.

If a good wago'n road were constructed, it would be used the year through to great advantage. I do not know what the rates of freight and passengers now are from Portland and Vancouver to The Dalles, but in 1858 and 1859 freight was $25 per ton and passage of horse or man, $10. When the Columbia river is closed by ice, of course there is no communication at all, as 'no practicable wagon road has ever

136 GEORGE H. HIMES

been opened. Much public money has been disbursed for the transportation of troops and supplies on boats that might have been saved had there been an easy land route.

So soon as I can look over my books, I will furnish you a detailed statement showing the heavy and expensive ship- ments by the river to The Dalles. It amounted to more than $25,000 each quarter, and sometimes probably more than that sum in one month, dependent, of course, upon the season of the year and the forces east of the mountains. I refer to the amounts paid by Government for military purposes.

The country east of the Cascade Mountains is now quite populous and exceedingly rich in mineral and other resources. The trade by the river is now greater than at any other period, and is increasing.

The demand for a land route through the Cascade moun- tains becomes more serious and important every day. As a military measure, it is important to connect the lower Columbia with the great interior by a practicable wagon road. I have seen the importance of it during the Indian wars. It would be still more necessary in case of a foreign war.

Respectfully submitted,

RUFUS INGALLS,

Brig. Gen., Chf. Qr. Mr., Army Potomac.

m

General Ingalls was born in Denmark, Maine, in 1820. He graduated at West Point in 1843, and served through the Mexican war. He came to Oregon in May, 1849, as the quartermaster, with the rank of captain, of a company of artillery under the command of Major Hathaway, who estab- lished the U. S. military post of Fort Vancouver. During the Civil war he was the quartermaster general of the Army of the Potomac. He retired from the army July 1, 1883, and soon afterwards became a resident of Portland until his death in 1893.

GEORGE H. HIMES.

1. Delivered at the fourteenth annual commemoration services held at Champoeg, May 2, 1914.
2. Note. For facts, in compilation of this sketch, the writer is indebted to the following authorities:
   1. Well authenticated Oregon history.
   2. Certified copy of records of the First Presbyterian Church in the Oregon Territory.
   3. The original "Church Record of First Congregational Church O. T." and kindly loaned by George H. Himes, of the Oregon Historical Society.
   4. Interviews with Mrs. W. P. Abrams, Dr. George F. Whitworth, John C. Carson and Seth L. Pope.
   5. Letters from Dr. George F. Whitworth, J. A. Hanna and Seth L. Pope.
   6. Church records of the First Presbyterian Church of Portland, Oregon.
3. Parker's Exploring Tour, page 78.
4. Donated by Mrs. Harriet L. McArthur, daughter of Senator Nesmith.