D Y I
D Y I
afb.es. Fuftic here is forbid, as a falfe colour. — V. Savar. D. de Comm. T. 2. p. 1690, feqq. See alfo h Teinturier Par fait, Leld. 1708, 12°. Salm. Polygraph. 1. 3. c. 37.
Dying of wools for tapeflry, is performed after the fame man- ner as cloths, excepting blacks, which are only to be woad- ed, and then put in black, as above.
Black wools for cloths and ferges may be begun with walnut- tree root, and walnut rinds, and finifhed by dipping in a vat of black.
Dying of f Iks, is begun by boiling them with foap, fefc. then fcowring and warning them out in the river, and fteeping them in alum water cold. — For crimfon they fcower them a fecond time before putting them in the cochineel vat. Red crtmfon is dyed with pure cochineel meftich, adding galls, turmeric, arfenic, and tartar, all put together in a copper of fair water almoft boiling: with thefe the filk is to be boiled an hour and a half; after which, it is fuffered to ftand in the liquor till next day. — Violet crimfon is alfo given with pure cochineel, arfenic, tartar, and galls; but the galls in lefs proportion than in the former. When taken out it is to be well wafhed, and put in a vat of indigo. — Cinnatnon crimfon is begun like the violet, but finifhed by back boiling, if too bright, with copperas ; if dark, with a dip in indigo. —Light blues are given in a back of indigo.— Sky blues are begun with orchal, and finifhed with indigo. — For citron co- lours, the filk is firft alumed, then welded, with a little in- digo. — Pale yellows, after aluming, are dyed in weld alone. —Pale and brown aurora's, after aluming, are welded ftrong- ly, then taken down with rocou diflblved with pot-afhes.' — Flame colour is begun with rocou, then alumed, and dipped jn a vat or two of brazil.— Carnation, and rofe-colours, are firft alumed, then dipped in brazil. Cinnamon colour, after aluming, is dipped in brazil, and braziletto. — Lead colour is given with fuftic, or with weld, braziletto, galls, and copperas. But the galls, on thefe and other occafions, are not to be over-dofed, which encreafes the weight to the da- mage of the purchafer ; for which reafon, it is punifhed in France as a fraud : in reality few but black filks need galls. Black filks, of the coarfer fort, are begun by fcowring them with foap, as for other colours ; which done, they are wafh- ed out, wrung, and boiled an hour in old galls, where they are left to ftand a day or two ; after which, they are warned again with fair water, wrung, and put in another vat of new and fine galls ; then waflied and wrung again, and finifhed in a vat of black. — Fine black filks are only put once into galls, viz. the new and fine fort, which has only boiled an hour ; then they are wafhed, and wrung out, and dipped thrice in black, to be afterwards brought down by back- boiling with foap.— V. Savar. lib. cit. p. 1693, feqq.
Dying of thread is begun by fcowring it in a lye of good afhes; after which, it is wrung, rinfed out in river water, and wrung again. — For a bright blue, it is given with brazi- letto, and indigo. — Bright green is firft dyed blue, then back- boiled with braziletto, and verdeter, and laftly woaded. — For a dark green it is given like the former, only darkening more before woading. — Lemon, or pale yellow, is given with weld, mixt with rocou. — Orange and ifabella, with fuftic, weld, and rocou. — Red, both bright and dark, with flame colour, &c. are given with brazil, either alone, or with a mixture of rocou. — Violet, dry rofe, and amaranth, are given with brazil, taken down with indigo. — Feulemort, and olive colour, are given with galls and copperas, taken down with weld, rocou, or fuftic. — Black is given with galls and copperas, taken down and finifhed with braziletto wood.
Dying of hats is done with braziletto, galls, copperas, verde- greafe, diflblved and boiled in a copper capable of receiving, befides the liquor, twelve dozen of hats on their blocks, or moulds. Here the hats are fuffered to boil fome time ; after which, they are taken out, and fuffered to ftand and cool ; then dipped again ; and thus alternately, oftener or feldomer, as the fluff is of a nature to take the dye with more or lefs difficulty. Savar. lib. cit. p. 1697. See alfo the article Hat.
Proof of Dyes. — There are divers ways of proving the truth of dyes, or examining the juftnefs and legitimacy of their composition. — To difcover whether a cloth have been duly treated by the dyer, and the proper foundations laid, a white fpot, by the French called rofette, of the bignefs of afhilling, ought to be left ; befides a white ftripe between the cloth and the lift.
Farther proof is had by boiling the dyed ftuff in water with pther ingredients different according to the quality of the dye to be proved. If the colour fuftain the teft, i. e. do not difcharge at all, or very little, fo that the water is not tinc- tured by it, the dye is pronounced good : otherwife, falfe.
Proof of the Dyes of filks. — For red crimfon, the proof is made by boiling the filk with an equal weight of alum. — For fcarlet crimfon, it is boiled with foap almoft of the weight of the filk. — For violet crimfon, with alum of equal weight with the filk, or with citron juice, about a pint to a pound of filk. — Thefe ingredients are to be mixed, and put in fair water when it begins to boil ; after which, the filks are alfo to be put in ; and after boiling the whole for half a quarter of an hour, if the dye be falfe, the liquor of
the red crimfon will be violet, in cafe it have been dyed with orchal, or very red, if with brazil. — That of crimfon fcarlet, if rocou have been ufed, will become of an aurora colour, or, if brazil have been ufed, red. — And that of vio- let crimfon, if brazil, or orchal have been ufed, will be of a colour bordering on red.-^On the contrary, if the three forts of crimfon be truly dyed, their liquors will difcover very little alteration.
A ftill furer way to difcover whether crimfon filks have been rightly dyed, is by boiling a piece of ftandard dyed crimfon filk, kept for that purpofe at Dyers-hall, after the fame manner* and then comparing the tinctures of the two liquors.
To difcover whether other colours have been dyed with galls,, the filk is put in fair boiling water, with pot-afhes, or foap, nearly of the weight of the filk ; after fome time, it is taken out ; upon which, if it have been dyed with galls, the co- lour will be all vanifhed, and nothing but that of the galls left, which is a fort of feulemort, or wood colour. The dying of filk with galls may alfo be detected by putting it in boiling water, with a gallon of citron juice ; being taken out, and wafhed in cold water, and then dipped in a black dye, if galls have been ufed, it will turn black ; if not, it will be of a brown-bread colour. To difcover whether black filk have been overdofed with galls, fteel filings, or flipp, it is boiled in fair water, with twice its weight of foap : if it be loaden with galls, it will turn reddifh, otherwife, it will keep its colour. To difcover whether black cloth have been firft woaded, and maddered ; a fample of it, and at the fame time, a fam- ple of ftandard black, kept for that purpofe by the dyers company, is to be taken ; and then as much Roman alum as is equal in weight to both, together with a like weight of pot-afhes, is to be put over the fire in a pan of bran water : when it begins to boil, the two famples to be put in ; and after half an hour to be taken out, and compared.— The piece which has only been woaded will be found bluifh, with fomewhat of a dull green ; if it have been both woaded and maddered, it will be of a tan, or minim colour ; and, if it have been neither woaded, nor maddered, its colour will be dunnifh, between yellow~and fallow. For cloths dyed of a minim colour, the proof is to be made after the fame manner as that of blacks. To know whether fcarlet, or crimfon cloth, have been dyed with pure cochineel, they are to be boiled with an ounce of alum*to a pound of cloth.
For cloths of other colours, the proof is to be made in the fame manner as that of blacks and minims. — V. Savar. lib* cit. T. I. p. 1665, feqq. voc. DebouilH. Theory of Dying. — This article we cannot better clofe, than with fome general deductions which may let a little necefla- ry light into the theory of dying. As, i". That all the materials, which of themfelves give colour, are either red, yellow, or blue ; fo that out of them, and the primitive fundamental colour, white, all that great vari- ety, which we fee in dyed fluffs, arifes. — 2°. That few of the colouring materials, (as cochineel, foot, wood-wax, or woad) are in their outward and firft appearance, of the fame colour, which by the flighteft diftempers and folutions in the weakeft rnenftrua, they dye upon cloth, filk, &V.— 3 . That many of the colouring materials will not yield their colours without much grinding, fteeping, boiling, ferment- ing, or corrofion by powerful rnenftrua ; as red-wood, weld, woad, annotto, &c. — 4 . That many of the faid colouring materials will of themfelves give no colouring at all, as cop- peras, or galls, or with much difadvantage, unlefs the cloth, or other ftuff to be dyed, be firft covered or incruftated, as it were, with fome other matter, though colourlefs, afore- hand ; as madder, weld, and brazil, with alum. — 5 . That fome of the colouring materials, by the help of other colour- lefs ones, do ftrike different colours from what they would alone, and of themfelves ; as cochineel, and brazil. — 6°. That fome colours, as madder, indigo, and woad, by rei- terated tinctures, will at laft become black. 1 — 7 . That though green be the moft frequent and common of natural colours, yet there is no fimple ingredient, which is now ufed alone, to dye green with upon any material ; fap-green, the con- denfed juice of the ramnus berry, being the neareft ; and this only ufed by country people. — 8°. There is no black thing in ufe which dyes black ; though both the coal and foot of moft things burnt, or fcorched, be of that colour ; and the blacker, by how much the matter, before it was burnt, was whiter, as in the famous inftance of ivory black. — 9 . The tincture of fome dying fluffs will fade even with lying, or with the air, or will ftain even with water; but very much with wine, vinegar, urine, &fir. — ro°. Some of the dyers materials are ufed to bind and ftrengthen a colour ; fome to brighten it ; fome to give luftre to the ftuff, fome to difcharge and take off the colour, either in whole, or in part ; and fome out of fraud, to make the material dyed, if coftly, to be heavier. — ii°. Some dying ingredients, or drugs, by the coarfenefs of their bodies, make the thread of the dyed ftuff feem coarfer ; and fome by fhrinking them, fmaller ; and fome by levigating their afperities, finer. — 12 .
Many
