weight compact case; the spout in the top is in just the right place and of the right size to receive the water power from a faucet; and as the water connections can be made tight there is no possibility of water splashing on to the floor—a big argument in your favor when seeking permission to use the motor in the bath-tub, wash-basin, or kitchen sink.
Fig. 62.—The Completed Varnish-Can Water-Motor.
You can get an empty varnish can from any painter, or at a paint store. The first step in converting the can into the motor case consists in removing the bottom. You will find this soldered in place, in all probability, and it can be removed quickly by holding the can over the flame of a gas burner until the solder melts, when a few taps upon the edges will cause the piece of tin to drop off.
The Water-Motor Wheel is shown in the cross-sections of the water-motor (Figs. 63 and 64), and Figs. 65 to 67 show its details. The diameter of the wheel should be about ½ inch less than the inside width of the can. In
