Page:Pattern Drafting And Grading (1961).djvu/36

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Page II

DRESS-JACKET AND SLEEVE IN ONE

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HOW TO DRAFT THE JACKET PATTERN

I

Using the dress foundation to waistline only, trace front and back as indicated, having the shoulder touching at neckline, and spreading shoulder edges 1″ at armhole. Slash waist dart between A and 6;then close up front dart as shown in diagram II.

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II.

Lower neckline 1″ at center front, add 3/4″ to center front for closing overlap; add 3/4″ for blousing allowance in front and back. Place sleeve foundation with cap overlap; add ping front armhole ½″ at shoulder, having each side of lower part of cap at equal distance from arnthole and side seam. Shorten sleeve 5″. Raise elbow dart 1″.

III

For dolman sleeve, draw diagonal guide line 4″ long at each side; then draw curved underarm lines from waistline to sleeve.

Draft 3″ wide cuff for lower edge of sleeve; then trace for double material cuff.

Draft front facing 1″ wide at shoulder having facing line parallel to center front; then trace facing and front in one section. For waistband, make a double band 1-¼″ wide finished and the length of half of the waist measure, plus ¾″ extension for center front closing.

IV

Add seams and make corresponding notches.

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This style features striped fabric with the stripes running straight at center front and bias in back.

Jacket blouses slightly at waistline which permits free arm movement.

Sleeve is 3/4 pushup length, and features a deep (dolman) underarm.

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HOW TO DRAFT THE COLLAR

I
Trace front; then draft collar as follows:
A to B -	1/2″ for lower neckline.
II
B to C -	Draw straight line.
B to D -	Equals neck measure from center front to center back (about 7-/2″ for size 16).
Trace curved in of the straight between B and C to opposite side
IV
D to E -	Square a line from D to E 1-1/4″ long. This equals the collar stand at center back of collar.
For neck edge, square a line down from E to the curved line.
D to F -	Equals D to E, plus 3/8″.
V
F to G -	Square a line down from line E - F to G, having point G about 1-1/2″ from center front; then connect B to G.
VI
Trace collar section for double material collar. Allow for seams.

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