HOW TO DRAFT THE JUMPER
A JUMPER is a sleeveless dress and may be worn over a blouse or sweater.
The neckline is usually cut low in front, back and over the shoulders.
The armholes are also cut a little deeper. Because the bodice is sleeveless, it is made closer fitting at underarm seams.
THIS STYLE features side and waist darts in front of bodice;waist darts in back. Skirt has inserted pockets in front. Also a soft pleat near each pocket opening for needed fulness over the pockets. There is a kick pleat, 22″ in length, at center back of skirt.
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DRAFT OF BODICE BACK
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I
Using the hip length dress foundation, trace back to waistline only; then reduce width and length of dart as indicated.
II
Deepen the armhole 1/2″; then reduce width of back 1/2″ at side seam.
Lower the neckline 1-1/2″ at center back and 2″ at shoulder seam.
III and IV
Draft facings 1-1/4″ wide for neck and armhole; then trace as shown in diagram IV.
DRAFT OF SKIRT BACK
V
Trace back hip section; then reduce width and length of dart.
Curve hipline up ¾″ toward side; then continue straight lines down at side and center back to required length. Make lower curved line parallel to hipline.
VI
Reduce 1/2″ at side edge and raise waistline 3/4″ at side edge to round the side seam over hip.
VII
Add 22″ length kick pleat at center back, as shown by dotted lines.
DRAFT OF BODICE FRONT
I
Trace front to waistline only. Make waistine ½″ dart wider. Lower the armhole ½″. Reduce width ½″ at top of side seam.
II
For side dart, draw line from side seam to a point 2″ diagonally above breast point. Slash and spread, making center front line straight as shown in diagram III.
III
Lower the neckline as indicated.
IV and V
Draft neck and armhole facing 1-½″ wide; then trace.
DRAFT OF SKIRT FRONT
VI
Trace front hip section; then curve hip line up ¾″ toward side.
Draft outline of skirt below hip as described for skirt back.
Reduce ½″ at side edgeandraise waistline 3/4" same as back draft. For a 2″ waistline pleat, slash through dart to bottom, and spread 1″ at top as shown in diagram VII. This provides for a soft pleat (1″ deep) near pocket opening.
VII
Draw a diagonal pocket opening line as indicated.
VIII
Draft outloine of pocket as shown by dotted lines. Trace shaded part for 'Inset and Pocket' as shown in diagram X.
IX
For pucker in pocket opening, make skirt ½″ wider at upper part of side seam to nothing at bottom. Make inside pocket correspondingly wider at opening as shown by dotted lines.
Trace shaded part of "Inside Pocket" as shown in Diagram XI. Add hem at bottom of skirt;then add seams on all sewing edges.
