he neither regrets nor begrudges his hospitality. The camp, or as some folk persist in calling it, Larnach's Castle, against the owner's wish, is a little off the main road, but the well-used line to it would at once indicate the position even although no "Scotch neebours were near, frae whom you could speer."
Down past the first dairy factory started in the Province our steeds gallantly carry us along, just giving time for a peep to the right and to the left of picturesque scenes such as are rarely to be met with. There is the hill called Harbour Cove, or Sugar Loaf, standing sentry, with old Captain Leslie still steady on the look out, and inviting the digger to set in and exhume the precious treasures it possesses, and for the accomplishment of which considerable labour and money have already been profitlessly laid out. But enough of that, we are not gold but pleasure seekers, and arriving at Portobello, if the hampers with their contents of good cheer have been omitted, there is the hotel, where Mrs. Coneys will supply food and drink for man and beast at the most reasonable of costs.
And now sufficiently refreshed we strike across the narrow neck in the centre of the Peninsula and at an easy distance reach Hooper's Inlet, or it may be Papanui, according as the driver or driven may select, and going at an easy pace reach the Cape Saunders Lighthouse, where the intelligent and obliging keepers will describe the whole surroundings, not garnished with the fables old Pilot Driver was wont to relate. A few hours well spent on this detour, the ride is continued from the last starting point down from the Maori Kaik to Taiaroa Head. Let us, however, pause a moment or two on the nether side of the Kaik.
Not far distant lies the sepulture spot of the Native race, where rest the remains of many of the heroes of olden times, and over several of whom a grateful country has erected enduring mementoes, bearing suitable inscriptions. Transcribing a few, the fore front must be given the father of the present chief, G. G. Taiaroa, Esq., M.L.A.
In Memory of
Taiaroa,
Of the Ngaitahu tribe, and of the Katimohi Family,
A great Chief of the Southern Island of New
Zealand.
