The History of Japan (Kaempfer)/Volume 1/Book 1/Chapter 1
The
Hiſtory of Japan.
Book I.
A General Description
of the
Empire of Japan.
Chap. I.
Journal of our Voyage from Batavia to Siam, with an account of what happen’d during our Stay there.
Occaſion of the Author’s Voyage.
fter I had made ſome Stay at Batavia, the Capital of the Dutch Eaſt-India Company in the Indies, and Reſidence of the Director General, ſeated upon the great Iſland Java, an Opportunity offer’d for ſailing to Japan, on board a Dutch Ship, call’d De Waelſtroom, bound for that Country. I was offer’d the Place of Phyſician to the Embaſſy, which the Company ſends once a Year to the Japaneſe Emperor’s Court. It is now almoſt a Century, ſince this Empire hath been, as it were, ſhut up and kept from all Commerce with foreign Nations, except the Dutch, who being look’d upon as the ſincereſt of all Foreigners, are for this Reaſon admitted among them and tolerated, though under a very ſtrict Inſpection, and are allow’d this particular Favour, that their Reſident may every Year appear at Court in order to pay their Reſpect to the Emperor. This is the only Opportunity at preſent, an European can have of going thither, and viewing the Majeſty of that Court and Empire. Our Ship was bound firſt to Siam, there to diſpoſe of Part of her Cargo, and to take in Goods of that Country, whereby I had an Opportunity of ſeeing alſo this famous Kingdom and its magnificent Court.
Departure from Batavia.I went on Board on Sunday the Seventh of May 1690 early in the Morning. We weigh’d Anchor the ſame Day and ſet Sail with a ſmall, but favourable Breeze. About Noon we made the ſmall Iſland Eidam, lying a few Leagues off Batavia, along which we coaſted till late at Night, when we loſt ſight of it.
On Monday the Eighth we loſt Sight of the high Land of Java, but not of the neighbouring Iſlands. We were becalm’d in the Afternoon and advancing but ſlowly, caſt Anchor in Twenty nine Fathoms, leſt the Currents, which run here very ſtrongly, ſhould carry us too much out of our Courſe. About half a League off us we ſaw a ſmall Portugueſe Veſſel at Anchor, with Chineſe Sailors on board, which ſet Sail from Batavia two days before. S. Paul.She was call’d the St. Paul, and had the Image of this Apoſtle painted upon her Stern. She had been in Japan about five Years ago, notwithſtanding that by order of the Japaneſe Emperor all Portugueſe whatever are forbid entring his Dominions under Pain of Death and Forfeiture of their Ships and Goods. I flatter myſelf the Reader will not be diſpleas’d to be inform’d of the Occaſion and Event of this Voyage, which I particularly enquir’d into at Batavia, the rather ſince it bears a near relation to the main Subject of this Hiſtory.
About ſix Years ago, a Japaneſe Veſſel was forc’d away, in a violent Storm, from the Coaſts of Japan towards China, and having ſuffer’d many Incommodities, was at laſt wreck’d near Macao, a famous trading Town in China, belonging to the Portugueſe. The Portugueſe Government at Macao thought this an excellent Opportunity, to recommend themſelves to the Japaneſe Emperor, and perhaps, which they had more at heart, to recover their former advantageous Trade. For this reaſon it was reſolv’d to relieve the twelve Japaneſe, whoſe Lives had been ſav’d, to treat them with kindneſs and civility, and generouſly to ſend them back to Japan on board one of their own Ships. But the Event fell far ſhort from anſwering their Expectation; for when they got into the Harbour of Nangaſaki, all the Japaneſe without exception were committed to Priſon, and the Portugueſe Veſſel ſtrictly guarded, without permitting any Body to ſet foot on ſhore, till the Governors of Nangaſaki could give an Account of this nice Affair to the Imperial Court at Jedo, and Orders ſent from thence as to their further Conduct. The Portugueſe were like to be put to Death and to have their Ship burnt, purſuant to the ſtanding Imperial Orders on this head; but the Severity of the Court being ſomewhat allay’d, partly by length of time, partly by the interceſſion of Mr. Buteman, then Reſident to the Dutch Eaſt-India Company, they at laſt, in conſideration of their good Intention, obtain’d leave to return to Macao, and Proviſions were offer’d them conſiſting chiefly in Rice and Water. The unhappy Japaneſe, after a rude Impriſonment of two years, were ſet at Liberty, and under a ſtrict Guard ſent to their native Towns. One of our Reſidents, upon his return from Jedo to Nangaſaki, met ſome upon the road. Thus this Voyage ended without the leaſt advantage to the City of Macao. But to proceed on our own Voyage.
We weigh’d anchor after midnight, and on the Ninth in the Morning made the Thouſand Iſlands, as they are here call’d. We were in Sight of the high Land Lampon, in Sumatra oppoſite to Bantam. We ſaw likewiſe the Weſtern Mountains both of Java and Sumatra, and particularly one in Sumatra, remarkable for its height, which to our great Grief we had had ſo long in Sight, ſome Months before in our Voyage from Atſijn to Batavia. The Wind was variable, moſtly S. We were almoſt becalm’d in the afternoon, and could not make the Iſland Norderwachten, that is Northern Guard, before Evening. After Sunſet a freſh favourable Gale ſprung up.
It was cloudy all the Tenth. The Wind E. S. E. We ſteer’d North out of ſight of Land or Iſlands, excepting ſome few of the higheſt Mountains in Sumatra, the tops of which we perceiv’d indiſtinctly through the Clouds. We caſt Anchor late at Night in ſix Fathoms, to avoid running againſt Land in the Night, which was ſeen from the great Maſt the evening before, and ſuppos’d to be the Iſland Lucipara, lying at the mouth of the Strait of Banca.
On the Eleventh of May we weigh’d anchor early in the morning, by a Calm enſuing forc’d us to drop it again, and to lie by for ſome hours. About two hours after Sun riſing, a brisk Gale ſprung up at S. and we ſteer’d North between Land, which we ſaw laſt evening, and found to be the Iſland Lucipara, and the Coaſts of Sumatra towards the Straits of Banca.
Voyage from Batavia to Siam dangerous.Before I proceed further, I cannot forbear obſerving in general that the Voyage from Batavia to Siam is attended with no ſmall difficulties and dangers, becauſe of the many ſmall low Iſlands, Rocks, Shoals and Sands. A careful and prudent Pilot muſt always keep at a due diſtance from Land, that is, neither too near it, nor too far off, that in caſe of ſtrong ſtormy Winds and Turnado’s, which frequently and unawares ariſe in this Paſſage, he may have an opportunity of coming to an anchor, and by this means preſerve the Ship from running a-ground, or from being caſt away too far out of her Courſe. For this Reaſon Ships commonly lie at anchor over night, the rather if Land was ſeen the day before, or ſome Signs appear’d of its being near. The moſt dangerous Paſſage becauſe of its Narrowneſs, Shoals and Rocks, are, Stairs of Banca.the Straits of Banca, form’d by an Iſland of this name, and the Coaſts of Sumatra. The Coaſts of Sumatra all along the Straits are low, without Hills or Mountains, but well ſtor’d with Woods. Banca, on the contrary, is ragged and broken with high Hills and Mountains in ſome Parts, and low verdant ground in others. It ſeems in the main to be a very fruitful Iſland. All the Ships bound for the Eaſtern Coaſts of Malacca, for Siam, Cambodia, Cochinchina, China and Japan, paſs theſe Straits. The Coaſts of Sumatra, oppoſite to Banca, have two or three remarkable Points running out into the Straits. We got within half a League of the ſaid Coaſts, becauſe there is a good ſoft Clay at the bottom and even ground in ſix Fathoms Water and more. We made the ſecond Point of the Coaſts of Sumatra before Sun ſet, and lay by againſt the next morning.
On the twelfth of May we weigh’d anchor before Sun riſing, and this morning got as far as the third and furthermoſt Point of the Coaſts of Sumatra. The St. Paul (of which above) which was hitherto far a-ſtern of us, was not got conſiderably a-head us. We ſteer’d along the Coaſts to N. N. W. The Sky was thick and cloudy, the Wind variable, moſtly S. The Coaſts of Sumatra and Banca appeared much as yeſterday. In the Afternoon the Wind turn’d contrary, which made us take in part of our Sails, and tack about for a while.
On the Thirteenth of May in the Evening, we got ſafe to the End of the Straits, between the Mouth of the River Palimbang on our Larboard, and a very high Rock call’d Monapin, upon the extremity of Banca to the Starboard. Palimbang, River.The Mouth of the River Palimbang, which was about three quarters of a League diſtant, ſeem’d to be at leaſt half a League broad. We could ſee no Land beyond it, whither for its extent, or becauſe of the dusk of the evening. We made the beſt of our way towards the ſaid Mouth, and the Coaſts of Sumatra in ſeven fathoms and a half, to avoid a dangerous Rock, call’d Frederic Henry,Frederic Henry, a Rock. which lies hereabouts, and upon which a Dutch Ship call’d Prince William, bound for Siam, unfortunately ſtranded, ſome Years ago, but the Captain and Crew ſav’d themſelves in the Boat. The Wind proving favourable, and we being paſt the Straits of Banca, we ſail’d all night.
On the Fourteenth of May in the morning, we came in ſight of the Iſlands Poele Tsju, that is the Seven Iſlands, otherwiſe the Seven Brothers.Seven Brothers. We directed our Courſe ſo as to leave the ſaid Iſlands to the Starboard. It was clear and cool, and a good favourable Gale all Day long. We loſt ſight of the Coaſts of Sumatra, and in the Evening made Puli Saya.the Iſland Puli Saya.
We advanc’d conſiderably all Night, and on the Fifteenth in the Morning left Puli Saya.Puli Saya ſo far a-ſtern that we could ſcarce perceive the Top of one of its Mountains, remarkable for its great height. About Noon we made Puli Lingan, and croſs’d ſafely the Æquinoctial Line. It now clear’d up, having rain’d pretty hard the Night before. We were almoſt becalm’d in the Afternoon advancing but little; about four we had a ſtrong Turnado, the Wind blew hard out of N. W. We run with incredible Swiftneſs in theſe dangerous Seas for about two Hours, when the Wind ceaſing we came to an Anchor, having been caſt pretty much out of our Courſe.
We ſet ſail again on the Sixteenth in the Morning, with low variable Wind, and clear Weather, after a rainy Night. We advanc’d but moderately, and could not get out of ſight of Puli Lingan till Evening, when we caſt Anchor.
On the Seventeenth of May we weigh’d Anchor two Hours before Sun-riſe: We ſteer’d to N. W. without Sight of Land, and reſolv’d to paſs by Puli Timon, where purſuant to the Company’s Inſtructions our Ships commonly put in for Wood and Water, and with theſe favourable Southerly Winds, to proceed directly North for Siam.
We were under Sail all Night, and on the Nineteenth in the Morning, perceiving the Top of a Mountain on our Larboard Side, we hop’d ’twould be the Puli Thingi.Iſland Puli Thingi, and therefore ſtood in directly for it. We were not diſappointed in our Hopes, and in the Afternoon got Sight of Puli Aur, or Puli Oor.Puli Oor, and ſoon after of Puli Piſang.
On the Twentieth of May about Eight in the Morning, we came to an Anchor before the Iſland Puli Timon.Puli Timon, bearing N. E. to E. I went on Shore with ſome others, partly to view the Situation of the ſaid Iſland, partly to obſerve what Plants and other Natural Things it produces, which hath been in all my Travels one of my chief Cares and Amuſements.
Puli Timon is one of the largeſt Iſlands ſituate near the Eaſtern Coaſts of Malacca. It is ſubject to the King of Johor, who reſides at Siperka upon the Continent of Malacca. He governs it by Two Orang Kay’s, one on each ſide of the Iſland. Orang Kay in the Malayan Language, ſignifies a Woodman, or a Man entruſted with the Care and Inſpection of Woods and Foreſts. The Inhabitants are a ſort of Banditto’s, who have been poſſeſs’d of this Iſland a conſiderable Time, and are of late grown ſo numerous, that ſome Years ago one of their Orang Kay’s, who came on board one of our Ships, boaſted thye were no leſs than Two Thouſand in Number, tho’ perhaps not half. They live separate from each other in poor small Cottages, consisting only of one single Room, with a small Window and a Door to come in. These Huts are not above five or six Paces long, and two or three broad. All the Furniture within, consists in a Bench round the room, to sit, or lye upon; without, there are some few Pinang Trees: For although the Island consists of scarce any thing but rocky Precipices, yet they choose for their Habitations such Places, where they can have a little flat ground round their Cottages, on purpose to plant some Pinang and other Trees. The Inhabitants are lively enough, and not ill shaped. They are somewhat blacker than the Javans, as they live also nearer the Æquinoctial Line, some of them seem’d to me to be of a very unhealthy Complexion. They pluck out the Hairs of their Beards, as do also the Inhabitants of Malacca and Sumatra, which makes them both look like ugly old Women. They are all Mahomethans, this Religion having spread almost all over the East. Their Habit consists in a Piece of coarse Cloath, made of the Bark of a Tree, which they wear about the Waste. They wear a piece of the same Cloath, twisted in form of a Garland, about their Heads; some wear Hats of Gabbe Gabbe Leaves. Gabbe Gabbe is a common Tree all over the East-Indies, and not unlike the Palm Tree. The Indians make their Saga of it, which they eat instead of Bread. The Inhabitants came on board our Ship in small Boats just big enough to hold each a Man, and withall so light, that one Man can easily hawl them on Shore. The Man sits in the middle his Goods laid behind him: The Oars are above a Man’s Length, and so shap’d that the Man holding them in the middle rows with both ends on either side of the Boat. They have also larger Boats, which will hold conveniently four People, and with these they venture as far as the Coasts of Malacca. They brought us exceeding large Mango’s, bigger than ever I saw them; Pisangs (Indian Figs) likewise of an uncommon Size, about a Span and a half in Length and a Span in their angular Circumference, very large Suursacks, Pine Apples, small Lemons, Fowl, and a very particular sort of Rams, of a redish colour, with long Hairs and a large Tusk on each Side. They brought nothing of their Manufactures on board but Bags of Pisang neatly enough twisted, and small Mats of the same Substance, as also of Gabbe Gabbe Leaves, likewise very artfully wrought. They would take no Money for their Commodities; but Linnen, Shirts, Rice, Iron, and other Bawbles were very acceptable to them. They seem to have no Knowledge at all in Money, for having shew’d them some Pieces, they would ask for a small Mat ten times its Value. On the contrary, for a small Piece of course Linnen, perhaps not worth three Farthings, they would readily exchange Victuals to the Value of two or three Shillings. The whole Island, as I have already observ’d if scarce any thing else but a heap of Stones, Rocks, and steep high Mountains, and yet, what appear’d to me remarkable, their barren Tops, where perhaps one ſhould be at a Loſs to find two or three Inches of Ground, were cover’d with Trees and Buſhes. We climb’d up the rocky Shores to look for the watering Places, not without ſome difficulty and danger, by the Help of the Roots of Trees, which grow up towards the Top, and which running down to the Ground ten, twenty, or more Fathoms, ſerv’d us inſtead of Ropes to catch hold at. Between the Heaps and Ruins, for ſo may I well call them, you meet very frequently with ſmall Lakes, or Ponds of ſweet Water, which is in ſome Places ſo cold, that having taken the Diverſion of waſhing my ſelf, I was very much indiſpos’d for ſome Days after. One River we met was large enough to drive a couple of Mills, and it came down from the Tops of the Mountains, running over the Rocks and Stones with ſo much rapidity and roaring, that ſtanding by we could ſcarce hear one another ſpeak. The Water was clear, cool, and ſeem’d to me to taſte ſomewhat bitter. I had not leiſure enough to make what Obſervations I wiſh I cou’d have made upon the Plants of this Iſland. I obſerv’d in general that there grow many of thoſe, which I found upon the Iſland Eidam, ſome few Leagues diſtant from Batavia, and have deſcrib’d amongſt the plants of that Iſland. Along the Shores I took notice of the following Trees and Shrubs.
Terum Lauk.Terum Lauk, a middle ſiz’d Shrub, with oblong leaves, two or three Inches long, an inch and a half broad, almoſt opaque, with a ſtrong nerve running irregularly acroſs the middle. The Flower was Yellow, pentapetalous or conſiſting of five petala, diſpos’d in form of a Star. The ſeed was exceedingly beautiful, all green and like a Star of Seven rays. There were three, four or five of theſe Starry Seeds grew Cloſe to one another, which altogether made a very handſom figure.
Prija-Laut.Prija-Laut, is a Shrub which bears a berry ſomewhat larger than our Juniper berries, green and of a fleſhy ſubſtance. The leaves are ſerrated. I obſerv’d the very ſame plant in Perſia about Gamron or Banderabaſſi, and have figur’d and deſcrib’d it at large amongſt my Perſian plants.
Maanbu.Maanbu. A pretty large Tree with ſeveral obtuſe tender leaves, ſoft to the touch, without a nerve in the middle, ſticking together at the end of the branches. I obſerv’d the ſame tree at Eidam, but had not then the good luck to meet with the flowers and fruit, which I ſaw here in full perfection. The flower is ſomewhat particular. It conſiſts of 5 petala, all on one ſide diſpos’d in form of a Semi Circle, or half moon. Oppoſite to the flower leaves is a bent ſtylus ſtanding upwards with a ſmall round green head at the top. To the flowers ſucceed five berries of a fleſhy Subſtance.
Papiniok.Papiniok, hath a white flower not unlike the flower of beans, which family it comes neareſt with regard to the leaves, there being three ſet to each Stalk, the middlemoſt whereof is longer and larger than the two others, which ſtand oppoſite to ore another.
Another Tree, whoſe name I could not learn, had large, tender, roundiſh leaves, not unlike the leaves of the Filberd-tree, but twice, or thrice as big with many irregular nerves running lengthways and tranſverſely. The flower was Compos’d of an uncertain number of petala, commonly 7 or 9. The fruit was an Apple, not unlike the apples, of which the old Women at Batavia make a particular Ointment, to anoint and ſmooth the ſkins of Children after the Meaſles, of which I have elſewhere given ſome account.
Fine Iris.Amongſt the Plants there was particularly remarkable for its uncommon beauty a fleſh colour’d Iris with yellow Streakes, and a thorny fruit much of the bigneſs and ſhape of a Nutmeg, and divided into three Cells, in each of which were lodg’d four round white ſeeds about as big as Peaſe.
All the Ships bound from Batavia to Siam have inſtruction from the Company to put in, if poſſible, at Puli Timon for wood and water, this Iſland being very commodiouſly ſeated for this purpoſe, about half way from Batavia. I was told, and it is not improbable, that there is but little difference between Puli Timon, and Puli-Oor, as to the ſituation, nature of the place and way of life of the Inhabitants. Upon our arrival in the morning a Gun was fired to invite the Inhabitants to trade with us; In the evening, after the Ship had taken in a good ſtore of wood and water, the ſame ſignal was given for us, that went on Shore, to return on board.
We ſet ſail after Supper with a briſk favourable gale. Puli Timon, which in the morning bearing N. E. by E. appear’d ſmall and narrow, made now a much handſomer and larger appearance bearing E. N. E. about half a League diſtant and ſeem’d to be about four Leagues long and two broad.
On the Twenty firſt of May in the morning we loſt ſight of Puli Timon and diſcovered the high mountains of Malacca at a conſiderable diſtance a-head. We ſteer’d to N. W. and N. W. by W. to draw obliquely near Land, which we came in ſight of before Sunſet, being the main continent of Malacca and ſome ſmall neighbouring Iſlands. We paſs’d the ſaid Iſlands in the night, and got on the Twenty ſecond of May in the morning within a good league of the Coaſt of Malacca, along which we purſued our Courſe to the N. with a fine favourable Land Breeze. The Coaſts of Malacca ſeem’d to me to be not unlike the Coaſts of Ceylon very much broken, and rocky near the Sea with ſteep high mountains up in the Country, otherwiſe green and full of Timber, and to all appearance very fruitful.
The weather continuing fair and the wind favourable all day long, we made after Sunſet the two Iſlands Puli Capas.
We did not advance much on the Twenty third by reaſon of calms, and contrary winds which obliged us to lay by the beſt part of the day.
On the Twenty fourth of May we made the Mouth of a River, and a ſmall village upon the Continent of Malacca, in Portugueſe Maps call’d Buſe. The Inhabitants, who are all Fiſhermen, call’d it Terchannu.Buſé: Terchannu. The village ſeem’d to conſiſt of about Fifty Houſes or Cottages, built along the Shore. A Portugueſe Ship, which, as we were told by the Inhabitants, came from Macao, lay there at anchor with her Colours flying. The Inhabitants ſpeak both Siamiſh and Malayan. Three of them came on board in one of their boats to ſell us fiſh, and for a courſe Table-cloth we had as much fiſh as Twenty hungry people could eat, and amongſt others what they call King’s Fiſh, which is a Fiſh not unlike a Pike, and about three foot long, Korkuades call’d by the Dutch Horſe-heads, becauſe of their figure, red Steenbraſſems, Salammets, and Jacobs Ewertzen. We were becalm’d in the afternoon, and caſt anchor in ſight of ſome ſmall Iſlands call’d the Redans Iſlands.Redans Iſlands. Some of the Ships Company diverted themſelves, as uſual, with fiſhing, and one of them catch’d a very fine Starfiſh with nine Rays.Curious Starfiſh. The main body held four Inches in Diameter, and each Ray was near one ſpan and a half long, ſo that the Diameter of the whole Creature was three ſpans at leaſt. The upper ſurface was rough to the Touch, as it were full of ſmall Scales. The thickneſs of the main body was two Inches repreſenting a ſeparate Star with nine ſhort Rays rais’d above the ſubſtance of the body, in the Centre of which was a round hole, or mouth, pretty large and edged with two rows of fibres. The larger Rays were ſquare in circumference, and of the thickneſs of a finger, ſtreight, running into a point, of a whitetiſh, pale colour, and mark’d on the upper ſurface with Spots running acroſs like Clouds, reſembling thoſe of a Tyger’s ſkin. Both ſides of the upper part were lin’d up to the point with a row of prickles joyning very cloſe and growirig ſtill cloſer, as they run on towards the point. The under ſurface of this Creature was ſomething ſofter to the touch or of a white colour, and each Ray lin’d on each ſide with a row of ſmall feet like an Indian Millepes, or Fortyleg, which in moving confuſedly together afforded an odd and diverting ſight. In the main body was a cavity tolerably deep, from which Iſſued a channel along each Ray. The inward ſubſtance was white, hard and ſo brittle that ſome of the Rays broke in my hands. (ſee Tab. 1. Fig. 1.)
We had tolerable good weather on the twenty fifth, twenty ſixth and Twenty ſeventh of May, ſafe, that meeting every day with Turnado’s which frequently ariſe in this paſſage, we were obliged to lie by, till it blew over. The Coaſts of Malacca ſeem’d to be all along well inhabited.
On the twenty eighth of May, we made Cape Patany.Cape Patany, when the wind turning of a ſudden to N. W. by W. we tack’d about for awhile advancing but little, and at laſt caſt anchor in ſight of the ſaid Cape. We had ſeveral fiſhermen came on board, and ſold us fiſh for Linnen. Among the reſt they brought us ſome of thoſe Animals, which our Seamen call Sea Cats,Sea Cats. and which are true Ichthyothuria having neither bones nor fibres like other fiſh. We catch’d abundance of them in our voyage to Japan, whether I refer the Reader as to a more particular deſcription. It will not be improper here to obſerve, that Linnen is, what the Inhabitants of Malacca, as well on theſe as on the oppoſite Coaſts, towards the Straits of Malacca, and the Gulf of Bengale, as alſo the Inhabitants of the neighbouring Iſlands, covet moſt, and willingly exchange for the product of the Country, victuals, and manufactures, to the great advantage of ſeafaring people. They are for the moſt part fiſhermen and admirable Swimmers, as they alſo paſs the beſt part of their Life at Sea. I was told by ſeveral of our Seamen, which had been that way, and were Eyewitneſſes to the fact, that the Inhabitants of the Nicobar Iſlands,Nicobar Iſlands. which lie in the Gulf of Bengale, and are commonly met with in going from Malacca to Bengale, are ſuch good ſwimmers, that they will follow a ſhip with all her Sails crowded, and come up with her. In ſwimming they every now and then leap out out of the water. They tie their goods about their neck, and ſell them on board for Fiſh hooks, ſmall knives and ſuch other bawbles, but chiefly for Linnen if they can get it. They climb up, the Ship wherever they alight, with great ſwiftneſs and dexterity. They are for the moſt part ſtrong, and well built with wide mouths, and large teeth; when for diverſion’s ſake a Gun was fir’d they would all jump over beard, and a while after climb up again. The Portugueſe frequently put in at theſe Iſlands, to trade with the Inhabitants. They ſpeak a peculiar Language of their own. Yet they underſtand ſome Malayan, Portugueze and Dutch words. They are ſaid to be ſtill ſo ſavage and cruel, that if an European hath the misfortune to come into their hands they will greedily devour him, and yet inferior in barbarity and fierceneſs to their neighbours the Inhabitants of the Andeman’s Iſlands,Andeman’s Iſlands. which lye alſo in the Gulf of Bengale. The Bramines ſay, that the Inhabitants of theſe Andeman’s Iſlands are incarnate Devils and animated by the Souls of impious and wretched men. Theſe Iſlands are not eaſily to come at, becauſe of the ſhoals and rocks which encompaſs them.
On the Twenty ninth of May, we ſet ſail before Sunriſe. We had not been long under ſail, when a Storm ariſing out of the North, befel us ſo ſuddenly, that we could not furl without ſome difficulty. Remarkable Shipwreck in ſight of Viſia Grande.The Storm went over in about two hours time, but the wind continuing contrary kept us at an Anchor till the Thirtieth in the morning. In the meantime I beg leave to make a ſhort digreſſion, and to give an account of the remarkable ſhipwreck, and wonderful preſervation of a native of Japan, a Paſſenger on board our Ship from Batavia to Siam, which I had from himſelf. His Name was Hanjemon: He was an honeſt and induſtrious man, and beſides his own Mother Tongue, well vers’d in the Chineſe, Tungquinceſe and Cochinchineeſe Languages, as alſo in the Malayan and Siameſe. He was born at Firando in Japan, and having left his native Country ſetled in the Kingdom of Siam. In 1682 he went on board a large Siameſe Jonk, bound for Manilhas in the Philippine Iſlands. The Pilot of this Jonk, on board which there were beſides him ſixty four other People, was a Portugueſe. After a tolerable good Voyage the Ship ſtranded in fair weather on a rock about two Leagues off a ſmall low Iſland, call’d by the Portugueſe Viſia Grande. The Pilot and ſome others went into the Bout, and after ſix Days driving made the Coaſts of Tunquin, from whence they return’d to Siam. The beſt part of the Crew were carried off to Sea, and doubtleſs periſh’d. Hanjemon and thirteen others were thrown upon the abovemention’d Iſland, which was not above two Leagues diſtant from the place, where they ſtranded. ’Twas happy for them that the weather prov’d fair, and the Sea calm, becauſe otherwiſe they muſt have all inevitably periſh’d. Viſia Grande belongs to the Philippine Iſlands, being ſituate not far from the great Iſland Luzon, or Manilhas. It is a low flat Iſland without hills and woods, but not without Plants and Bambous. It was found to be 357 fathoms broad, and 363 fathoms long. Hanjemon and his unfortunate Companions, found, for their ſupport upon the Iſland, a large quantity of Birds, which were ſo tame that they could take them with their Hands when they pleas’d. They had long bills, and were obſerv’d to be only of four different Kinds. One Kind among the reſt, which was black and white, and the ſame which the Portugueze call Parginje, prov’d the moſt uſeful to them, becauſe of the Eggs, which were almoſt as large as Hen’s Eggs, and which they could eat all the Year round. Upon the Coaſts they catch’d large Tortoiſes, upon which they liv’d ſix months in the Year. Among the Plants they found the Dracontium, the large root of which is eat in the Indies, after its ſharp Juice hath been ſqueez’d out. They diligently gather’d what wood was caſt upon the Iſland, and having made a ſort of a float of it, they went in ſtill weather to fetch what wood, iron, and other inſtruments they could get from the wreck, which prov’d afterwards of good uſe to them in catching of Fiſh, and providing themſelves with other neceſſaries. They made fire, after the Indian manner, with rubbing two dry Ricks of Bambous againſt one another. Their Cloth being all worn out, they ſupplyed the want of it, with the skins and feathers of the Birds they kill’d, ſtitch’d together as well as they could. The large Shells, which are call’d by the Dutch in the Indies Vader Noachs Schulpen, that is, Father Noah’s Shells, ſerv’d inſtead of pots to dreſs their Victuals in. But they found that they would not hold out long againſt Fire. To remedy this inconveniency, they beſmear’d them with the blood of the Birds they kill’d upon the Iſland, having obſerv’d by chance to their great joy, that thus daub’d they would hold out longer. In ſhort, little was wanting for the ſupport of their Lives but freſh water, to ſupply which defect they dug holes in the ground, in ſeveral places of the Iſland, to gather the rain water, which they afterwards put by for uſe in the abovemention’d large Shells. They alſo took particular care, to gather and to lay by what pieces of wood were from time to time thrown upon the Coaſts. After this manner they ſhifted for near eight years, having loſt in the mean time three of their Companions, and thought of nothing elſe but ending their days in this ſolitude. But at laſt the deſire of returning to their Wives, Relations and Friends prevail’d with them ſo ſtrongly, that they reſolv’d unanimouſly to build of their proviſion of wood a boat, or rather a monſter of a boat, and to truſt themſelves once more to the mercy of the waves, rather than to lead any longer ſo comfortleſs and miſerable a Life on a deſtitute, uninhabited Iſland. So they all went to work, and having got their boat ready, embark’d eleven in number, unknown where their fate and good fortune would carry them. After thirty one whole days driving, and many hardſhips endur’d, they at laſt got into the Bay of Tunquin upon the Coaſts of the Iſland Haynam, and as good luck would have it, upon that part of the Iſland towards Canton, which belongs to the Chineſe, the other ſide towards Cochinchina, being inhabited by a mercileſs and ſavage People. The Chineſe Governor of this Iſland receiv’d them with all imaginable kindneſs, clad them, and ſent them to Macao, from whence three of them came on board a Portugueze Ship to Batavia, one of which ſtay’d there. Hanjemon, and his Companion return’d to Siam on board our Ship; and the latter underſtood to his great grief, that his Wife, impatient of his long and tedious abſence, had laid aſide all hopes of ever ſeeing her Husband again, and married a Portugueze, by whom ſhe had already a Child.
We made very little way on the 30th. On the 31ſt we met with a ſmall accident, being ſo ſuddenly befallen by a ſtrong Turnado, that as we were taking in our Sails, we loſt our foremaſt, which ſplit to pieces, and fell down partly upon deck, partly over-board. Two of our Men, which ſtood at the top, fell over-board, one of which ſwam aboard directly, and was ſav’d with ropes and wooden bars, which were held him down. The other miſs’d the Ship, but catch’d hold of the tow, which tied our Boat to the Ship, and held, it faſt, notwithſtanding the Ship run very ſwift, till two Men ſtept into the Boat, and took him up not without great difficulty: Neither of them ſeem’d to be hurt or bruis’d outwardly, but one complain’d of great pains in his ſide, the other in his breaſt. It was happy for us, that the rigging of the foremaſt broke, becauſe otherwiſe it might have endanger’d the great maſt too. We had no ſooner dropt anchor, and taken our ſails in, when the Storm blew over; we lay by till the next day mending our foremaſt.
On the firſt of June, the Wind turn’d to S. S. W. S. W. and S. we crowded all the ſails we could, and to keep the Ship in balance, hoiſted both ſprit ſails.
Having got our foremaft mended, and up again, and the wind continuing favourable, we got pretty much forward in ſight of flat low Land, being the Coaſts of Ligor,Ligor, and made on the fourth of June three large Iſlands in ten degrees of Northern Latitude, belonging to the Kingdom of Ligor, the firſt, ſet down in the Maps Puli Cornam, in the morning, the ſecond Puli Sancorij,Puli Cornam.
Puli Sancroij.
Puli Bordia. which lies juſt under the tenth degree of North Latitude, about noon, and the third, Puli Borida, ſoon after. At night we left them all a-ſtern, and were extreamly pleas’d with being now got within the Juriſdiction of Siam, for on the fifth of June we made the Country of Kui, the Wind continuing ſtill favourable by S. W. S. S. W. and S. The Coaſts are hereabouts very ſteep and rocky, and as I thought not unlike the Coaſts of Sweden, with many dangerous Shoals, Rocks and ſmall Iſlands, partly inhabited, partly uninhabited, all along, which I was the more ſurpriz’d at, as there is not the leaſt hint of any ſuch thing in our Maps, and indeed I cannot forbear obſerving in general, that moſt Sea Maps are ſo ill done, that I wonder misfortunes don’t happen oftner, there being nothing in the leaſt to be depended upon their certainty. Monproncena, a Merchant of Siam, gave me ſome information about theſe Coaſts, which he was well acquainted withal. He was the late King’s Factor and in the late revolution of Siam, of which more in the following Chapter, made Priſoner by the French, who took from him the goods he was entruſted with by the King, and ſome of his own, and ſet him aſhore at Paliakatta, where the Governor receiv’d him kindly, and ſent him with his family to Batavia, He nam’d the largeſt of the abovemention’d Rocks and ſmall Iſlands Samajotn, and mention’d the following places from thence to the mouth of the River Meinam. The ſeveral Rocks and Iſlands, which we ſaw on our Larboard, in general he call’d Pran, or Pranj. Next, he ſaid, follow’d Czam, or Ce’am, then going further up, Putprih, then Iſan, then Mayaklon, then Satzyn, then the mouth of the Meinam, which in the Language of Siam is call’d Pagnam Taufia.
Arrival in the road of Siam.On the ſixth of June in the evening we arriv’d ſafely in the road of Siam, and having notified our arrival by a diſcharge of five Guns, we caſt anchor. The mouth of the Meinam bore directly N. about three Leagues off.
On the Seventh of June, early in the morning, I went on ſhore with Mr. Gudward and van Loohn. From the anchoring place to the mouth of the River there is a ſoft muddy clay at the bottom, where all ſorts of Ships may ſafely ride. We took notice, as we went along, that marks were put up in ſeveral places for ſuch ſhips, as can ſail up the River to avoid the ſhallows. We likewiſe met ſeveral Fiſherboats, and the Men buſy about fiſhing. At the mouth of the River we could ſcarce diſcern the tops of our Maſts. Several Chineſe and other yonks lay there at anchor. Meinam River.The Mouth of the Meinam opens itſelf into the Sea, as it were, between two wings of low marſhy Land, which is nothing but mud gather’d together, and overflow’d in high water. Not far off we ſaw ſome batteries planted with Cannons on both ſides of the river, which were rais’d in the late french troubles. About noon we arriv’d ſafely at the Dutch habitation and ſtorehouſe call’d Amſterdam.Amſterdam, near two Leagues diſtant from the mouth of the River, and were civilly receiv’d by the Governor of that place one Core, a Swede by birth.
On the Eighth of June in the morning I tried to walk about a ſimpling in the adjacent woods, but to very little purpoſe. I had done the ſame the evening before with no better ſucceſs, a great part of the woods being at that time overflow’d, and that part, which is dry, infeſted with Tygers, and other voracious beaſts. Among the Ferns I obſerv’d very many I had ſeen growing wild with us in Europe; I found alſo ſeveral ſorts of Cyperus graſſes in marſhy places, with a fine Alcea fruteſcens, and ſome other plants, which I have deſcrib’d elſewhere. An old Guide, that pretended to ſome skill in plants, aſſur’d me, that the Anacardium Tree is to be found pentifully about Bankok. We ſent our boat back again to fetch four Cheſts of Silver from on board.
On the Ninth of June, We ſail’d up the River in our own boat, and by the way diverted ourſelves with ſhooting of Monkey’s, which are ſeen frequently upon the Banks of the River climbing up the Trees.
Bankock.At Bankock we ſaw the new Fort, which was rais’d by the French on the right bank, quite demoliſh’d. The banks above Bankok are pretty well inhabited, and ſtock’d with houſes and villages. I do not mention here the names of particular places, becauſe I have ſet them down in a Map of this River, which I had the opportunity of making at this time in going up, and which corrected afterwards in ſeveral places as we fell down again to return on board. On the tenth in the morning we came to a ſmall Iſland waſhed by two arms of the River where there are ſeveral temples and habitations of the Talapoins. I went on Shore, and took notice in one of the temples of three ſitting, and a ſtanding large Idols, gilt, with Mandarin’s Caps. About Forty ſmaller Idols kept them Company ſtanding at their feet. We caſt anchor at night a few miles from the Capital.
Come to Judia.On the Eleventh of June We arriv’d, God be prais’d, in good health at our factory, ſituated below Judia, a little before nine in the morning, juſt as they were a going to perform Divine Service, it being Sunday. In the afternoon the Director of our Factory had notice given him, to keep with his people within doors the next morning, becauſe his Majeſty intended to go abroad. When the King of Siam goes abroad, every body muſt keep out of the way, as they do in Perſia when the King’s Women go out. All the windows are ſhut, and not the leaſt noiſe to be heard. If one happens by chance to meet the King, or his Wives, or the Princeſs Royal in the open fields, he muſt proſtrate himſelf with his face flat to the ground turning his back to the Company, till they are out of ſight.
Funeral of the Berklam’s Mother.On the Twelth of June, at four in the afternoon, the Berklam’s or Chancellor’s of Siam, who hath alſo the direction of foreign affairs, his Mother was buried with great pomp and ſolemnity. The Siamites call alſo their Nurſes mothers, and thoſe brothers and ſiſters, who ſuck’d the ſame Breaſts. This was only the Berklam’s Nurſe, for his Mother died, and was buried about Fifteen months before. The burials of Siamites of quality are pompous and magnificent beyond expreſſion. The Corpſe is carried to the burial place by water in a ſtately Prow, as they are here call’d, which is ſometimes gilt all over, the Drums beating and the Muſic playing all the while. The Corpſe is either laid on the face in a coffin, or placed in an open chair expoſe’d to the view of the Spectators, tho’ often it ſmells intolerably, by reaſon of the time and delay the preparations for their burial require. And yet perſons of quality eſteem it one of their chief cares, aſſoon asthey are taken ill of a violent, or lingring ſickneſs, to order the neceſſary preparations for their funeral to be got ready betimes. The Coffin is a ſort of an oblong-ſquare Cheſt, or box, not unlike the German Coffins, gilt, or cover’d with gilt paper. It is plac’d under a ſtately herſe with a cieling, which is likewiſe gilt and curioſly adorn’d with fine columns and corniſhes, ſupporting ſeveral arched, bended roofs in proportion to the deceaſed’s quality. At the ſide of the boat which carries the dead corpſe is row’d another of equal length, with a beautiful gilt pyramid, built in form of a ſteeple. Before and behind are ſeveral other prows, with high poles of Bambous in the middle, hung with eight or ten gilt crowns made of paper. The annexed figures (ſee. Tab. 1 Fig. 2. 3.) will give the Reader a much better Idea, than could be expected from the moſt accurate deſcription. All theſe ſeveral prows lie along the, banks of the River till the funeral is over. After this manner the Corpſe is brought to the burial place, accompanied by Talapoins, the Muſic playing all the while, and there burnt together with the coffin. The remaining bones and aſhes are gather’d together, and interr’d, and a ſtately Pyramid erected over them, inſtead of a Monument, the height and magnificence of which are again proportionable to the deceaſed’s quality. The place, where the Berklam’s mother was interr’d, was ſeated between two branches of the River oppoſite to the City, and enclos’d with a ſquare row of Banners, Flags and other Ornaments diſpos’d in form of palliſſado’s. Upon the middle of the place was erected a ſtately tower of an extraordinary height, curiouſly adorn’d and ſupported with fine pillars, columns and corniſhes: under this tower, which had two gates oppoſite to one another, the corpſe was laid in a magnificent coffin upon a pile of precious wood, to which the King put fire himſelf, in hohour to the Berklam, for whom he hath a peculiar eſteem. At one ſide of this Tower was erected a convenient building for the Talapoins, and the door leading to it was cover’d with ſeveral gilt roofs.
Have Audience of the Berklam.Some Days after Mynheer van Hoorn, Directtor of our Factory, with Mr. Daniel, and Mr. Moſes Brocſeborde, two Perſons well skill’d in the Siamiſh, Malayan, and ſeveral other Eaſtern Languages had a public audience of the Berklam, as Lord High Chancellor and Director of foreign affairs, in order to deliver the Letters, and Preſents, we had brought over on board our Ship for his Majeſty and him. The Captain of our Ship, and I, were likewiſe admitted to it. The day of the audience between ſeven and nine in the morning there came over to our Factory four Operas, or Mandarins of the ſecond rank to conduct us, of the number whereof were, Opera Tſijat, an Indoſtan, now chief of the Moors, or Mahometans, and the King’s Siabander, or Receiver of the Cuſtoms for foreign goods, clad after the faſhion of his Country, in a gown embroider’d with gold, with a turbant upon his head, a Chineſe Mandarin with his Hairs tied up, otherwiſe clad as the Mandarins of Siam ate, and two Siamites, both Mandarins, one of which was about fourſcore years of age. We treated them and their retinues, with Brandy and Sweetmeats, but the Indoſtan and one of the Siamites refus’d to drink. Their prows were very ſumptuous and pretty, particularly that which was ſent to bring over the Letters for the King and Berklam, on board which went the Interpreter alone. It was not unlike the others as to its ſhape, but ſomewhat larger, and prow and ſtern higher. (ſee Tab. 1. Fig. 4.) The Moor’s prow had this particular, that all the watermen were clad in ſhirts or gowns of coarſe linnen, with flat yellow and white Caps. His chair was lin’d with green, yellow and white. On each ſide of it there was a bench for his retinue. But the chair ſtood higher than the two benches, according to the faſhion of the Country, which requires that perſons of quality ſhould have their ſeats plac’d higher than perſons of an inferior rank. On each ſide of the chair ſtood a Scimeter and Pike, gilt and adorn’d with precious Stones, as badges of their authority, which all the Mandarins cauſe to be carried after them upon ſolemn occaſions. Theſe ſtate Scimeters have handles fix’d to them at leaſt a Man’s length, ſo that one may cut and beat with them as with Scythes. The chairs are compos’d of ſeveral pieces. Right upon the prow lies the firſt deck, or layer, rais’d about a ſpan above its borders, three or four paces long, and as broad as the prow, neatly carv’d and adorn’d with beautiful Corniſhes. Upon this firſt deck is plac’d another leſs in compaſs, but higher and adorn’d after the ſame manner. Upon this ſecond Deck ſtands the Mandarins four legg’d gilt chair, and over it is extended a ſort of Canopy, which is fix’d to the chair with gilt Cramp-irons, almoſt round and withal ſo wide, that its Diameter exceeds the breadth of the prow. It is made of Leather, lin’d within with black, without either gilt all over, or red with gilt borders. Every thing being ready, we went away to the audience in the following order. Firſt, Opera Sijot the Moor, then the three other Mandarins, each in his prow. Next follow’d the prow, which carried the Letters for the King and Berklam, which were writ in Malayan and Dutch, and kept each in a Purſe embroider’d with gold. The purſes were laid in a golden baſon, which was cover’d with an embroider’d cloth, and put into a box of Pinang, adorn’d with pearls according to the cuſtom of the Country. With theſe Ornaments they were plac’d upon a ſtool right under the middle of the Canopy. The Interpreter ſate before them upon a Carpet. We follow’d next to the prow with the King’s Letters in a particular ſhort prow fitting under a Canopy lin’d with red. In this order we went up the River, coaſting for ſome time the walls of the City, and then turning in towards the Berklam’s Houſe, where he gives publick audience, and appears with all his pomp and ſplendor. We went aſhore on this ſide of his Houſe, and walk’d the remaining part of our way thither. The Court was dirty and naſty enough, but however in ſomewhat better a condition, than that of his other Houſe, where we had had a private audience of him ſome Days before. Entring the Court we took notice to the left of an open Houſe, or Room, almoſt ſquare, without walls, the floor of which was cover’d with boards and full of people, ſome ſitting, ſome walking and converſing together. A large Elephant compleatly harnaſs’d ſtood in the Stable to the right. Oppoſite to the entry was a ſtony ſtaircaſe, leading to the Berklam’s Houſe, where we were to have our audience. We went up the ſame and then pull’d off our Shoes. This Houſe hath but one ſingle Room, or rather lofty Hall, like a Church. It is white within and full of Duſt and Cobwebs. Seven ſquare pillars on each ſide, ſupported the cieling, which was rais’d under the third roof, and neatly enough painted with red branch’d work. About the middle of each pillar hung a large plate of chineſe Copper. In the wall between the pillars were long openings with ſhutters inſtead of windows. There were two entries into the Hall, with a window between them; Poles of Bambous were fix’d to the pillars on each ſide of the Hall hung with white Cloth, behind which, between the pillars and the wall, were the Berklam’s ſervants and domeſticks, without any order, ſome ſitting, ſome lying on the ground. Before ſate the Mandarins, as Oja Tewejaata, a Mahometan, ſet over the Querry of the King’s Elephants, next to the Berklam on his right, Oja Pipat, Deputy Berklam to his left, both with golden Boeſers before them. Boeſets.Boeſets are cubical boxes made of Pinang, and marks of the King’s favour, which he preſents his Mandarins with, when he gives them their names, and raiſes them to that dignity, which is never done without having firſt ask’d advice of his Aſtrologers. Below theſe two there ſate ſeveral other Siamiſh, Chineſe, and Mahometan Mandarins. I counted twenty three to the Berklam’s right, and one and twenty to his left. Seven of the chief on each ſide ſitting uppermoſt, had golden, and two others which ſate next them ſilver Boeſets ſtanding before them. The Letters, with the purſes, baſon and other ornaments, were plae’d before the Berklam about four or five paces from him. We ſate in the middle between the two rows of Mandarins, a Pinang baſon with Betel and Pinang minc’d, and Jaſmin and other flowers laid round the borders for ornaments ſake, was ſet before each of us. The Berklam, as repreſenting the perſon of the King ſate in a particular enclos’d apartment, at the upper end of the Hall, behind an embroider’d Carpet laid over a pole of Bambous and rais’d about two or three foot above the ground, ſhewing only the upper part of his Body. Two gilt Umbrello’s were plac’d before him, one at each ſide. Behind him were two golden Daggers, laid upon as many cuſhions, and a ſtate Scimeter as above deſcrib’d ſtood at each ſide. Two European pictures hung behind him on the wall encompaſs’d with branch’d work, inſtead of frames, after the Country faſhion. Having all ſeated our ſelves, the Berklam ask’d Mynheer van Hoorn by the Interpreter, how the General of our Eaſt India Company did, how long he had been in the Indies, what Troops we had now at Batavia and at Bantam, which of the two was the better Country, as alſo who we, the Captain and I were? Theſe and ſome other queſtions being ſeverally anſwer’d, the purſes containing the Letters were open’d, and the Letters having paſs’d through the hands of ſeveral of the Mandarins then preſent, read aloud. The Interpreter not underſtanding ſome of the Malayan expreſſions, Mr. Moſes and Daniel were deſir’d to help him out. The audience having laſted about three quarters of an hour, we were conducted by the Berklam’s Son, who till then had been behind his Father, through his other Houſe to our prows, and from thence to dinner, which ſtood prepar’d for us.
Siamites forbid to waſh themſelves in the River.Nothing elſe remarkable happen’d during our ſtay at Siam, except, that towards the latter end of this month an order from the King was made publick, forbidding his Subjects to waſh themſelves in the River. I ſaw afterwards ſeveral Siamites waſhing themſelves in their boats with River-water, it being impoſſible for this Nation to live without Water. Venomous Water Lizard.The reaſon of this order was, becauſe ſeveral people had been bit of late by a venomous water Snake, or Lizard, and died a few hours after. I was told that theſe Snakes do not exceed a finger in length, and a Leech in bigneſs, that they are cheker’d with brown and blue, and that they infeſt the River but once in eight or ten years. To oblige the people to a ſtrict compliance with this order, it was order’d at the ſame time, that the Relations or Heirs of every Perſon that ſhould die of the bite of this venomous Creature, ſhould pay a fine of fifteen Thails.