The Innocents Abroad

by Mark Twain

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THE

INNOCENTS ABROAD,

OR

THE NEW PILGRIMS’ PROGRESS;

BEING SOME ACCOUNT OF THE STEAMSHIP QUAKER CITY’S PLEASURE
EXCURSION TO EUROPE AND THE HOLY LAND: WITH
DESCRIPTIONS OF COUNTRIES, NATIONS,
INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES,
AS THEY APPEARED.
TO THE
A U T H O R.

 

WITH TWO HUNDRED AND THIRTY-FOUR ILLUSTRATIONS,

 

BY
MARK TWAIN,
(SAMUEL L. CLEMENS.)

 

(ISSUED BY SUBSCRIPTION ONLY, AND NOT FOR SALE IN THE BOOK-STORES, RESIDENTS OF ANY STATE DESIRING A COPY SHOULD ADDRESS THE PUBLISHERS, AND AN AGENT WILL CALL UPON THEM.)

 

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HARTFORD, CONN.:
AMERICAN PUBLISHING COMPANY.
BLISS & CO., NEWARK, N. J.; R. W. BLISS & CO., TOLEDO, OHIO.
F. G. GILMAN & CO., CHICAGO. ILL.; NETTLETON & CO., CINCINNATI,
F. A. HUTCHINSON & CO., ST. LOUIS, MO.
H. H. BANCROFT AND COMPANY, SAN FRANCISCO, CAL.
1869.

 

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Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1869, by
AMERICAN PUBLISHING CO.,
In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of Connecticut.

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To
My Most Patient Reader
and
Most Charitable Critic,
MY AGED MOTHER,
This Volume is Affectionately
Inscribed.

THE QUAKER CITY IN A STORM. (Page 62)

PREFACE.

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This book is a record of a pleasure-trip. If it were a record of a solemn scientific expedition, it would have about it that gravity, that profundity, and that impressive incomprehensibility which are so proper to works of that kind, and withal so attractive. Yet notwithstanding it is only a record of a pic-nic, it has a purpose, which is to suggest to the reader how he would be likely to see Europe and the East if he looked at them with his own eyes instead of the eyes of those who traveled in those countries before him. I make small pretense of showing anyone how he ought to look at objects of interest beyond the sea—other books do that, and therefore, even if I were competent to do it, there is no need.

I offer no apologies for any departures from the usual style of travel-writing that may be charged against me—for I think I have seen with impartial eyes, and I am sure I have written at least honestly, whether wisely or not.

In this volume I have used portions of letters which I wrote for the Daily Alta California, of San Francisco, the proprietors of that journal having waived their rights and given me the necessary permission. I have also inserted portions of several letters written for the New York Tribune and the New York Herald.

THE AUTHOR.

San Francisco, 1869.

[List of Illustrations]

 

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		PAGE
1.	The Quaker City in a Storm Frontispiece	—
2.	Illuminated Title-Page—The Pilgrim’s Vision	—
3.	“I’ll Pay You in Paris”	28
4.	The Start	30
5.	“Good Morning, Sir”	34
6.	The Old Pirate	36
7.	Dancing Under Difficulties	42
8.	The Mock Trial	44
9.	“Land, ho!”	49
10.	The Capote.	52
11.	Ruin and Desolation	53
12.	Port of Horta, Fayal (Full Page), face page	56
13.	“Sekki-Yah!”	59
14.	Beautiful Stranger	64
15.	Rock of Gibraltar (Full Page), face page	65
16.	“Queen’s Chair”	67
17.	The Oracle	70
18.	The Interrogation Point	71
19.	Garrison at Malabat	72
20.	Entertaining an Angel	74
21.	View of a Street in Tangier	77
22.	Change for a Napoleon	81
23.	The Consul’s Family	88
24.	“Poet Lariat”	91
25.	First Supper in France	95
26.	Painting	96
27.	Rinfging for Soap	99
28.	“Wine, Sir!”	100
29.	The Pilgrim	101
30.	The Prisoner	103
31.	Homeless France (Full Page), face page	106
32.	Railroad Official in France	108
33.	“Five Minutes for Refreshments.”America	109
34.	“Thirty Minutes for Dinner”France	110
35.	The Old Traveller	111
36.	A Decided Shave	115
37.	A Gas-tly Substitute	117
38.	The Three Guides	119
39.	“Ze Silk Magazin”	122
40.	Return in War Paint	124
41.	Napoleon III	126
42.	Abdul Aziz	126
43.	The Morgue	132
44.	We took a walk	135
45.	The Can-Can	136
46.	Graves of Abelard and Heloise	141
47.	A Pair of Canons of 13th Century	142
48.	The Private Marriage	144
49.	American Drinks	148
50.	Royal Honors to a Yankee	150
51.	The Grisette	151
52.	Fountain at Versailles	154
53.	Women of Genoa	161
54.	Petrified Lackey	163
55.	Priest and Friar	164
56.	Statue of Columbus	168
57.	Graves of Sixty Thousand	169
58.	Roof and Spires of Cathedral at Milan (Full Page), face page	172
59.	Central Door of Cathedral at Milan	173
60.	Interior of Cathedral at Milan	174
61.	Boyhood’s Experience	176
62.	Treasures of the Cathedral	179
63.	Cathedral at Milan	181
64.	La Scala Theatre	184
65.	Copying from Old Masters	191
66.	Facial Expression	194
67.	The Echo	196
68.	Note Book	197
69.	A Kiss for a Franc	198
70.	The Fumigation	200
71.	Lake Como	202
72.	Garden, Lake Como (Full Page), Face Page	204
73.	Social Driver	207
74.	Wayside Shrine	208
75.	Peace and Happiness	209
76.	Castle of Count Luigi	210
77.	The Wicked Brother	216
78.	Disgusted Gondolier	220
79.	Cathedral of St. Mark	226
80.	The Peg	229
81.	“Good-by"	230
82.	M’sieur Gor-r-dong	234
83.	Monument to the Doge	236
84.	St. Mark.By the Old Masters	238
85.	St. Matthew.By the Old Masters	238
86.	St. Jerome.By the Old Masters	238
87.	St. Sebastian.By the Old Masters	239
88.	St. Unknown.By the Old Masters	239
89.	Rialto Bridge	241
90.	Bridge of Sighs	241
91.	Florence	245
92.	The Pensioner	246
93.	“I Want to go Home”	248
94.	The Leaning Tower	250
95.	The Contrast	258
96.	Italian Pastimes	263
97.	Incendiary Document	264
98.	A Roman of 1869	267
99.	Mamertine Prison	176
100.	Old Roman	178
101.	Coliseum of Ancient Rome	281
102.	Did not Complain	285
103.	Humboldt House	286
104.	Dan	288
105.	Bronze Statue	289
106.	Penmanship	291
107.	On a Bust	293
108.	Vaults of the Convent	299
109.	Dried Convent Fruits	302
110.	At the Store	303
111.	At Home	304
112.	Soothing the Pilgrims	309
113.	Ascent of Mt. Vesuvius	313
114.	Bay of Naples	316
115.	The Mustang	319
116.	Island of Capri	320
117.	Blue Grotto	321
118.	Vesuvius and Bay of Naples (Full Page), face page	323
119.	The Descent	325
120.	Ruins, Pompeii	327
121.	Forum of Justice, Pompeii	330
122.	House, Pompeii	335
123.	Stromboli	338
124.	View of the Acropolis, looking West	341
125.	“Ho!”	343
126.	The Assault	344
127.	The Caryatides	346
128.	The Parthenon (Full Page), face page	348
129.	We Sidled, not Ran	350
130.	Ancient Acropolis	352
131.	Tail Piece, Ruins	353
132.	Queen of Greece	355
133.	Palace at Athens	356
134.	Street Scene in Constantinople (Full Page), face page	359
135.	Goose Rancher	360
136.	Mosque of St. Sophia	363
137.	Turkish Mausoleum	365
138.	Slandered Dogs	371
139.	The Censor on Duty	374
140.	Turkish Bath	378
141.	Far-Away-Moses	382
142.	A Fragment	385
143.	Tail-Piece—A Memento	386
144.	Yalta from the Emperor’s Palace	392
145.	Emperor of Russia	393
146.	Tinsel King	399
147.	Ship Emperor	404
148.	The Reception	405
149.	Street Scene in Smyrna	411
150.	Smyrna	413
151.	An Apparent Success	416
152.	Drifting to Starboard	419
153.	A Spoiled Nap	420
154.	Ancient Amphitheatre at Ephesus	422
155.	Modern Amphitheatre at Ephesus	423
156.	Ruins of Ephesus	424
157.	The Journey	425
158.	Graves of the Seven Sleepers	429
159.	The Selection	434
160.	Camping Out	436
161.	Tail Piece—Arabs’ Tents	437
162.	A Good Feeder	439
163.	Interesting Fête	440
164.	Sunday School Grapes	442
165.	An Old Fogy	445
166.	Race with a Camel	446
167.	Temple of the Sun	447
168.	Ruins of Baalbec	449
169.	Hewn Stones in Quarry	450
170.	Mercy	452
171.	Patron Saint	453
172.	Water Carrier	455
173.	View of Damascus, (Full Page) face page	456
174.	Street Cars of Damascus	460
175.	Full Dressed Tourist	466
176.	Impromptu Hospital	474
177.	The Horse “Baalbec”	476
178.	Oak of Bashan	479
179.	Dangerous Arab	482
180.	Grimes on the War-Path	483
181.	Tail-Piece—Bedouin Camp	487
182.	Home of Ancient Pomp	489
183.	Jack	491
184.	A Disappointed Audience	493
185.	Fig-Tree	495
186.	“Fare too High”	497
187.	Syrian House	504
188.	Tiberias and Sea of Galilee	506
189.	The Guard	516
190.	Mount Tabor	521
191.	Tail-Piece—Gathering Fuel	524
192.	Fountain of the Virgin	530
193.	“Madonna-like Beauty”	531
194.	Putnam Outdone	533
195.	The Bastinado	535
196.	“I Wept”	536
197.	Want of Dignity	539
198.	An Oriental Well	544
199.	Arabs Saluting	545
200.	Free Sons of the Desert	546
201.	Shechem	552
202.	Tail Piece—Gate of Jerusalem	556
203.	Beggars in Jerusalem	559
204.	Church of the Holy Seluchre	564
205.	Grave of Adam	566
206.	View of Jerusalem (Full Page), face page	574
207.	The Wandering Jew	577
208.	Mosque of Omar	581
209.	An Epidemic	589
210.	Charge on Bedouins	590
211.	Dead Sea	594
212.	Grotto of the Nativity (Full Page), face page	601
213.	Jaffa (Full Page), face page	606
214.	Read Elevation of Jack	610
215.	Street in Alexandria	611
216.	Viceroy of Egypt	612
217.	Eastern Monarch	614
218.	Moses S. Beach	615
219.	Room No. 15	617
220.	The Nilometer	620
221.	Ascent of the Pyramids	622
222.	High Hopes Frustrated	625
223.	King’s Chamber in the Pyramid, (Full Page), face page	626
224.	A Powerful Argument	627
225.	Pyramids and Sphynx, (Full Page), face page	629
226.	The Relic Hunter	630
227.	The Mameluke’s Leap	631
228.	Would not be Comforted	633
229.	Tail Piece, The Traveler	634
230.	Homeward Bound	635
231.	Bad Coffee	639
232.	Our Friends the Bermudians	640
233.	Captain Duncan	641
234.	Tail Piece, Finis	651

 

CONTENTS.

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CHAPTER I. PAGE
Popular Talk of the Excursion—Programme of the Trip—Duly Ticketed for the Excursion—Defection of the Celebrities	19
CHAPTER II.
Grand Preparations—An Imposing Dignitary—The European Exodus—Mr. Blucher’s Opinion—Stateroom No. 10—The Assembling of the Clans—At Sea at Last	26
CHAPTER III.
“Averaging” the Passengers—“Far, far at Sea”—Tribulation among the Patriarchs—Seeking Amusement under Difficulties—Five Captains in the Ship	32
CHAPTER IV.
The Pilgrims Becoming Domesticated—Pilgrim Life at Sea—“Horse-Billiards”—The “Synagogue”—The Writing School—Jack’s “Journal”—The “Q. C. Club”—The Magic Lantern—State Ball on Deck—Mock Trials—Charades—Pilgrim Solemnity—Slow Music—The Executive Officer Delivers an Opinion	38
CHAPTER V.
Summer in Mid-Atlantic—An Eccentric Moon—Mr. Blucher Loses Confidence—The Mystery of “Ship Time”—The Denizens of the Deep—“Land-Ho!”—The First Landing on a Foreign Shore—Sensation among the Natives—Something about the Azores Islands—Blucher’s Disastrous Dinner—The Happy Result	47
CHAPTER VI.
Solid Information—A Fossil Community—Curious Ways and Customs—Jesuit Humbuggery—Fantastic Pilgrimizing—Origin of the Russ Pavement—Squaring Accounts with the Fossils—At Sea Again	55
CHAPTER VII.
A Tempest at Night—Spain and Africa on Exhibition—Greeting a Majestic Stranger—The Pillars of Hercules—The Rock of Gibraltar—Tiresome Repetition—“The Queen’s Chair”—Serenity Conquered—Curiosities of the Secret Caverns—Personnel of Gibraltar—Some Odd Characters—A Private Frolic in Africa—Bearding a Moorish Garrison (without loss of life)—Vanity Rebuked—Disembarking in the Empire of Morocco	62
CHAPTER VIII.
The Ancient City of Tangier, Morocco—Strange Sights—A Cradle of Antiquity—We become Wealthy—How they Rob the Mail in Africa—The Danger of being Opulent in Morocco	76
CHAPTER IX.
A Pilgrim in Deadly Peril—How they Mended the Clock—Moorish Punishments for Crime—Marriage Customs—Looking Several ways for Sunday—Shrewd Practice of Mohammedan Pilgrims—Reverence for Cats—Bliss of being a Consul-General	83
CHAPTER X.
Fourth of July at Sea—Mediterranean Sunset—The “Oracle” is Delivered of an Opinion—Celebration Ceremonies—The Captain’s Speech—France in Sight—The Ignorant Native—In Marseilles—Another Blunder—Lost in the Great City—Found Again—A Frenchy Scene	90
CHAPTER XI.
Getting “Used to it”—No Soap—Bill of Fare, Table d’hôte—“An American Sir!”—A Curious Discovery—The “Pilgrim” Bird—Strange Companionship—A Grave of the Living—A Long Captivity—Some of Dumas’ Heroes—Dungeon of the Famous “Iron Mask.”	98
CHAPTER XII.
A Holiday Flight through France—Summer Garb of the Landscape—Abroad on the Great Plains—Peculiarities of French Cars—French Politeness—American Railway Officials—“Twenty Minutes to Dinner!”—Why there are no Accidents—The “Old Travellers”—Still on the Wing—Paris at Last—French Order and Quiet—Place of the Bastile—Seeing the Sights—A Barbarous Atrocity—Absurd Billiards	105
CHAPTER XIII.
More Trouble—Monsieur Billfinger—Re-Christening the Frenchman—In the Clutches of a Paris Guide—The International Exposition—Fine Military Review—Glimpse of the Emperor Napoleon and the Sultan of Turkey	118
CHAPTER XIV.
The Venerable Cathedral of Notre-Dame—Jean Sanspeur’s Addition—Treasures and Sacred Relics—The Legend of the Cross—The Morgue—The Outrageous Can-Can—Blondin Aflame—The Louvre Palace—The Great Park—Showy Pageantry—Preservation of Noted Things	130
CHAPTER XV.
French National Burying-Ground—Among the Great Dead—The Shrine of Disappointed Love—The Story of Abelard and Heloise—“English Spoken Here”—“American Drinks Compounded Here”—Imperial Honors to an American—The Over-estimated Grisette—Departure from Paris—A Deliberate Opinion Concerning the Comeliness of American Women	139
CHAPTER XVI.
Versailles—Paradise Regained—A Wonderful Park—Paradise Lost—Napoleonic Strategy	153
CHAPTER XVII.
War—The American Forces Victorious—“Home Again”—Italy in Sight—The “City of Palaces”—Beauty of the Genoese Women—The “Stub-Hunters”—Among the Palaces—Gifted Guide—Church Magnificence—“Women not Admitted”—How the Genoese Live—Massive Architecture—A Scrap of Ancient History—Graves for 60,000	159
CHAPTER XVIII.
Flying Through Italy—Marengo—First Glimpse of the Famous Cathedral—Description of some of its Wonders—A Horror Carved in Stone—An Unpleasant Adventure—A Good Man—A Sermon from the Tomb—Tons of Gold and Silver—Some More Holy Relics—Solomon’s Temple Rivalled	171
CHAPTER XIX.
“Do You Wis zo Haut can be?”—La Scala—Petrarch and Laura—Lucrezia Borgia—Ingenious Frescoes—Ancient Roman Amphitheatre—A Clever Delusion—Distressing Billiards—The Chief Charm of European Life—An Italian Bath—Wanted: Soap—Crippled French—Mutilated English—The Most Celebrated Painting in the World—Amateur Raptures—Uninspired Critics—Anecdote—A Wonderful Echo—A Kiss for a Franc	183
CHAPTER XX.
Rural Italy by Rail—Fumigated, According to Law—The Sorrowing Englishman—Night by the Lake of Como—The Famous Lake—Its Scenery—Como compared with Tahoe—Meeting a Shipmate	199
CHAPTER XXI.
The Pretty Lago di Lecco—A Carriage Drive in the Country—Astonishing Sociability in a Coachman—A Sleepy Land—Bloody Shrines—The Heart and Home of Priestcraft—A Thrilling Mediæval Romance—The Birthplace of Harlequin—Approaching Venice	207
CHAPTER XXII.
Night in Venice—The “Gay Gondolier"—The Grand Fête by Moonlight—The Notable Sights of Venice—The Mother of the Republics Desolate	217
CHAPTER XXIII.
The Famous Gondola—The Gondola in an Unromantic Aspect—The Great Square of St. Mark and the Winged Lion—Snobs, at Home and Abroad—Sepulchres of the Great Dead—A Tilt at the “Old Masters"—A Contraband Guide—The Conspiracy—Moving Again	228
CHAPTER XXIV.
Down Through Italy by Rail—Idling in Florence—Dante and Galileo—An Ungrateful City—Dazzling Generosity—Wonderful Mosaics—The Historical Arno—Lost Again—Found Again, but no Fatted Calf Ready—The Leaning Tower of Pisa—The Ancient Duomo—The Old Original First Pendulum that Ever Swung—An Enchanting Echo—A New Holy Sepulchre—A Relic of Antiquity—A Fallen Republic—At Leghorn—At Home Again, and Satisfied, on Board the Ship—Our Vessel an Object of Grave Suspicion—Gen. Garibaldi Visited—Threats of Quarantine	244
CHAPTER XXV.
The Works of Bankruptcy—Railway Grandeur—How to Fill an Empty Treasury—The Sumptuousness of Mother Church—Ecclesiastical Splendor—Magnificence and Misery—General Execration—More Magnificence—A Good Word for the Priests—Civita Vecchia the Dismal—Off for Rome	255
CHAPTER XXVI.
The Modern Roman on His Travels—The Grandeur of St. Peter’s—Holy Relics—Grand View from the Dome—The Holy Inquisition—Interesting Old Monkish Frauds—The Ruined Coliseum—The Coliseum in the Days of its Prime—Ancient Play-bill of a Coliseum Performance—A Roman Newspaper Criticism 1700 Years Old	266
CHAPTER XXVII.
“Butchered to Make a Roman Holiday”—The Man who Never Complained—An Exasperating Subject—Asinine Guides—The Roman Catacombs—The Saint Whose Fervor Burst his Ribs—The Miracle of the Bleeding Heart—The Legend of Ara Cœli	284
CHAPTER XXVIII.
Picturesque Horrors—The Legend of Brother Thomas—Sorrow Scientifically Analyzed—A Festive Company of the Dead—The Great Vatican Museum—Artist Sins of Omission—The Rape of the Sabines—Papal Protection of Art—High Price of “Old Masters”—Improved Scripture—Scale of Rank of the Holy Personages in Rome—Scale of Honors Accorded Them—Fossilizing—Away for Naples	298
CHAPTER XXIX.
Naples—In Quarantine at Last—Annunciation—Ascent of Mount Vesuvius—A Two-Cent Community—The Black Side of Neapolitan Character—Monkish Miracles—Ascent of Mount Vesuvius Continued—The Stranger and the Hackman—Night View of Naples from the Mountain-side—Ascent of Mount Vesuvius Continued	308
CHAPTER XXX.
Ascent of Mount Vesuvius Continued—Beautiful View at Dawn—Less Beautiful in the Back Streets—Ascent of Vesuvius Continued—Dwellings a Hundred Feet High—A Motley Procession—Bill of Fare for a Pedler’s Breakfast—Princely Salaries—Ascent of Vesuvius Continued—An Average of Prices—The wonderful “Blue Grotto”—Visit to Celebrated Localities in the Bay of Naples—The Poisoned “Grotto of the Dog”—A Petrified Sea of Lava—Ascent of Mount Vesuvius Continued—The Summit Reached—Description of the Crater—Descent of Vesuvius	315
CHAPTER XXXI.
The Buried City of Pompeii—How Dwellings Appear that have been Unoccupied for Eighteen Hundred Years—The Judgment Seat—Desolation—The Footprints of the Departed—“No Women Admitted”—Theatres, Bake-shops, Schools—Skeletons preserved by the Ashes and Cinders—The Brave Martyr to Duty—Rip Van Winkle—The Perishable Nature of Fame	327
CHAPTER XXXII.
At Sea Once More—The Pilgrims all Well—Superb Stromboli—Sicily by Moonlight—Scylla and Charybdis—The “Oracle” at Fault—Skirting the Isles of Greece—Ancient Athens—Blockaded by Quarantine and Refused Permission to Enter—Running the Blockade—A Bloodless Midnight Adventure—Turning Robbers from Necessity—Attempt to Carry the Acropolis by Storm—We Fail—Among the Glories of the Past—A World of Ruined Sculpture—A Fairy Vision—Famous Localities—Retreating in Good Order—Captured by the Guards—Travelling in Military State—Safe on Board Again	337
CHAPTER XXXIII.
Modern Greece—Fallen Greatness—Sailing Through the Archipelago and the Dardanelles—Footprints of History—The First Shoddy Contractor of whom History gives any Account—Anchored Before Constantinople—Fantastic Fashions—The Ingenious Goose-Rancher—Marvelous Cripples—The Great Mosque—The Thousand and One Columns—The Grand Bazaar of Stamboul	354
CHAPTER XXXIV.
Scarcity of Morals and Whiskey—Slave-Girl Market Report—Commercial Morality at a Discount—The Slandered Dogs of Constantinople—Questionable Delights of Newspaperdom in Turkey—Ingenious Italian Journalism—No More Turkish Lunches Desired—The Turkish Bath Fraud—The Narghileh Fraud—Jackplaned by a Native—The Turkish Coffee Fraud	368
CHAPTER XXXV.
Sailing Through the Bosporus and the Black Sea—“Far-Away Moses”—Melancholy Sebastopol—Hospitably Received in Russia—Pleasant English People—Desperate Fighting—Relic Hunting—How Travellers Form “Cabinets”	381
CHAPTER XXXVI.
Nine Thousand Miles East—Imitation American Town in Russia—Gratitude that Came Too Late—To Visit the Autocrat of All the Russias	387
CHAPTER XXXVII.
Summer Home of Royalty—Practising for the Dread Ordeal—Committee on Imperial Address—Reception by the Emperor and Family—Dresses of the Imperial Party—Concentrated Power—Counting the Spoons—At the Grand Duke’s—A Charming Villa—A Knightly Figure—The Grand Duchess—A Grand Ducal Breakfast—Baker’s Boy, the Famine-Breeder—Theatrical Monarchs a Fraud—Saved as by Fire—The Governor-General’s Visit to the Ship—Official “Style”—Aristocratic Visitors—“Munchausenizing” with Them—Closing Ceremonies	390
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
Return to Constantinople—We Sail for Asia—The Sailors Burlesque the Imperial Visitors—Ancient Smyrna—The “Oriental Splendor” Fraud—The “Biblical Crown of Life”—Pilgrim Prophecy-Savans—Sociable Armenian Girls—A Sweet Reminiscence—“The Camels are Coming, Ha-ha!”	403
CHAPTER XXXIX.
Smyrna’s Lions—The Martyr Polycarp—The “Seven Churches”—Remains of the Six Smyrnas—Mysterious Oyster Mine—Oysters Seeking Scenery—A Millerite Tradition—A Railroad Out of its Sphere	412
CHAPTER XL.
Journeying Toward Ancient Ephesus—Ancient Ayassalook—The Villanous Donkey—A Fantastic Procession—Bygone Magnificence—Fragments of History—The Legend of the Seven Sleepers	418
CHAPTER XLI.
Vandalism Prohibited—Angry Pilgrims—Approaching Holy Land!—The “Shrill Note of Preparation”—Distress About Dragomans and Transportation—The “Long Route” Adopted—In Syria—Something about Beirout—A Choice Specimen of a Greek “Ferguson”—Outfits—Hideous Horse-flesh—Pilgrim “Style”—What of Aladdin’s Lamp?	430
CHAPTER XLII.
“Jacksonville,” in the Mountains of Lebanon—Breakfasting above a Grand Panorama—The Vanished City—The Peculiar Steed, “Jericho”—The Pilgrim’s Progress—Bible Scenes—Mount Hermon, Joshua’s Battle-Fields, etc.—The Tomb of Noah—A Most Unfortunate People	438
CHAPTER XLIII.
Patriarchal Customs—Magnificent Baalbec—Description of the Ruins—Scribbling Smiths and Joneses—Pilgrim Fidelity to the Letter of the Law—The Revered Fountain of Baalam’s Ass	445
CHAPTER XLIV.
Extracts from Note-Book—Mahomet’s Paradise and the Bible’s—Beautiful Damascus, the Oldest City on Earth—Oriental Scenes within the Curious Old City—Damascus Street Car—The Story of St. Paul—The “Street called Straight”—Mahomet’s Tomb and St. George’s—The Christian Massacre—Mohammedan Dread of Pollution—The House of Naaman—The Horrors of Leprosy	454
CHAPTER XLV.
The Cholera by way of Variety—Hot—Another Outlandish Procession—Pen-and-Ink Photograph of “Jonesborough,” Syria—Tomb of Nimrod, the Mighty Hunter—The Stateliest Ruin of All—Stepping over the Borders of Holy Land—Bathing in the Sources of Jordan—More “Specimen”-Hunting—Ruins of Cesarea—Philippi—“On This Rock Will I Build my Church”—The People the Disciples Knew—The Noble Steed “Baalbec”—Sentimental Horse Idolatry of the Arabs	465
CHAPTER XLVI.
Dan—Bashan—Genessaret—A Notable Panorama—Smallness of Palestine—Scraps of History—Character of the Country—Bedouin Shepherds—Glimpses of the Hoary Past—Mr. Grimes’s Bedouins—A Battle-Ground of Joshua—That Soldier’s Manner of Fighting—Barak’s Battle—The Necessity of Unlearning Some Things—Desolation	478
CHAPTER XLVII.
“Jack’s Adventure”—Joseph’s Pit—The Story of Joseph—Joseph’s Magnanimity and Esau’s—The Sacred Lake of Genessaret—Enthusiasm of the Pilgrims—Why We did not Sail on Galilee—About Capernaum—Concerning the Saviour’s Brothers and Sisters—Journeying toward Magdala	488
CHAPTER XLVIII.
Curious Specimens of Art and Architecture—Public Reception of the Pilgrims—Mary Magdalen’s House—Tiberias and its Queer Inhabitants—The Sacred Sea of Galilee—Galilee by Night	503
CHAPTER XLIX.
The Ancient Baths—Ye Apparition—A Distinguished Panorama—The Last Battle of the Crusades—The Story of the Lord of Kerak—Mount Tabor—What one Sees from its Top—Memory of a Wonderful Garden—The House of Deborah the Prophetess	514
CHAPTER L.
Toward Nazareth—Bitten By a Camel—Grotto of the Annunciation, Nazareth—Noted Grottoes in General—Joseph’s Workshop—A Sacred Bowlder—The Fountain of the Virgin—Questionable Female Beauty—Literary Curiosities	525
CHAPTER LI.
The Boyhood of the Saviour—Unseemly Antics of Sober Pilgrims—Home of the Witch of Endor—Nain—Profanation—A Popular Oriental Picture—Biblical Metaphors Becoming steadily More Intelligible—The Shunem Miracle—The “Free Son of The Desert”—Ancient Jezreel—Jehu’s Achievements—Samaria and its Famous Siege	537
CHAPTER LII.
Curious Remnant of the Past—Shechem—The Oldest “First Family” on Earth—The Oldest Manuscript Extant—The Genuine Tomb of Joseph—Jacob’s Well—Shiloh—Camping with the Arabs—Jacob’s Ladder—More Desolation—Ramah, Beroth, the Tomb of Samuel, The Fountain of Beira—Impatience—Approaching Jerusalem—The Holy City in Sight—Noting Its Prominent Features—Domiciled Within the Sacred Walls	551
CHAPTER LIII.
“The Joy of the Whole Earth”—Description of Jerusalem—Church of the Holy Sepulchre—The Stone of Unction—The Grave of Jesus—Graves of Nicodemus and Joseph of Arimathea—Places of the Apparition—The Finding of the There Crosses—The Legend—Monkish Impostures—The Pillar of Flagellation—The Place of a Relic—Godfrey’s Sword—“The Bonds of Christ”—“The Center of the Earth”—Place whence the Dust was taken of which Adam was Made—Grave of Adam—The Martyred Soldier—The Copper Plate that was on the Cross—The Good St. Helena—Place of the Division of the Garments—St. Dimas, the Penitent Thief—The Late Emperor Maximilian’s Contribution—Grotto wherein the Crosses were Found, and the Nails, and the Crown of Thorns—Chapel of the Mocking—Tomb of Melchizedek—Graves of Two Renowned Crusaders—The Place of the Crucifixion	558
CHAPTER LIV.
The “Sorrowful Way”—The Legend of St. Veronica’s Handkerchief—An Illustrious Stone—House of the Wandering Jew—The Tradition of the Wanderer—Solomon’s Temple—Mosque of Omar—Moslem Traditions—“Women not Admitted”—The Fate of a Gossip—Turkish Sacred Relics—Judgment Seat of David and Saul—Genuine Precious Remains of Solomon’s Temple—Surfeited with Sights—The Pool of Siloam—The Garden of Gethsemane and Other Sacred Localities	574
CHAPTER LV.
Rebellion in the Camp—Charms of Nomadic Life—Dismal Rumors—En Route for Jericho and The Dead Sea—Pilgrim Strategy—Bethany and the Dwelling of Lazarus—“Bedouins!”—Ancient Jericho—Misery—The Night March—The Dead Sea—An Idea of What a “Wilderness” in Palestine is—The Holy hermits of Mars Saba—Good St. Saba—Women not Admitted—Buried from the World for all Time—Unselfish Catholic Benevolence—Gazelles—The Plain of the Shepherds—Birthplace of the Saviour, Bethlehem—Church of the Nativity—Its Hundred Holy Places—The Famous “Milk” Grotto—Tradition—Return to Jerusalem—Exhausted	586
CHAPTER LVI.
Departure from Jerusalem—Samson—The Plain of Sharon—Arrival at Joppa—Horse of Simon the Tanner—The Long Pilgrimage Ended—Character of Palestine Scenery—The Curse	604
CHAPTER LVII.
The Happiness of being at Sea once more—“Home” as it is in a Pleasure-Ship—“Shaking Hands” with the Vessel—Jack in Costume—His Father’s Parting Advice—Approaching Egypt—Ashore in Alexandria—A Deserved Compliment for the Donkeys—Invasion of the Lost Tribes of America—End of the Celebrated “Jaffa Colony”—Scenes in Grand Cairo—Shepheard’s Hotel Contrasted with a Certain American Hotel—Preparing for the Pyramids	609
CHAPTER LVIII.
“Recherché” Donkeys—A Wild Ride—Specimens of Egyptian Modesty—Moses in the Bulrushes—Place where the Holy Family Sojourned—Distant view of the Pyramids—A Nearer View—The Ascent—Superb View from the top of the Pyramid—“Backsheesh! Backsheesh!”—An Arab Exploit—In the Bowels of the Pyramid—Strategy—Reminiscence of “Holiday’s Hill”—Boyish Exploit—The Majestic Sphynx—Things the Author will not Tell—Grand Old Egypt	618
CHAPTER LIX.
Going Home—A Demoralized Note-Book—A Boy’s Diary—Mere Mention of Old Spain—Departure from Cadiz—A Deserved Rebuke—The Beautiful Madeiras—Tabooed—In the Delightful Bermudas—An English Welcome—Good-by to “Our Friends the Bermudians”—Packing Trunks for Home—Our First Accident—The Long Cruise Drawing to a Close—At Home—Amen	635
CHAPTER LX.
Thankless Devotion—A Newspaper Valedictory—Conclusion	638
CHAPTER LXI.
A Newspaper Valedictory	643
CONCLUSION.
Conclusion	648

THE PILGRIM’S VISION.

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