RAGLAN - SLEEVE DRESS & 8-GORED SKIRT
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I
Trace front and back dress foundation to waistline only; then adjust armhole, side seams and waist darts as shown by dotted lines.
Adjust each side of the dress sleeve foundation to correspond with the adjustment of the bodice armhole and side seams
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II
Draft raglan armhole seam lines, slightly curved. For side dart, draw slash line; then slash and spread as described for the "Jumper Dress".
Draw curved slash lines on each side of sleeve cap as shown by dotted lines.
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III
Slash each side of sleeve and spread 1-½″ at underarm. (The spread at underarm must always equal twice the amount the armhole was lowered); then connect at each side to elbow line. Trace raglan sections F and G;then apply them to top of sleeve cap C and D, 1″ apart.
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IV
Continue shoulder dart lines 1-½″ to a point as shown by dotted lines on sleeve.
Lower the neck 2″ front. Add ¼″ to center front for front closing overlap
Draft front facing 4″ wide as shown by dotted lines.
Add seams and make corresponding notches.
For roll-collar draft, see method on page 49.
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This style features: Side and waist darts in bodice slightly deepened armhole - shoulder dart in sleeve.
The 8 gored skirt has a sweep of over 3 yards, and extra ease allowance around hip.
For "Bouffant" wear, skirt has enough fulness around hip and sweep at lower edge to be worn over a stiffened crinoline petticoat.
HOW TO DRAFT SKIRT
V
Trace hip sections of the dress foundation: then curve hip and waistlines up ¾″ toward the sideband reduce waistline ¼″ at each side seam as shown by dotted lines.
VI
Divide hip sections into 4 parts by cutting along dart lines. Mark sections A to D.
Continue straight lines down below hip sections to required length; then curve bottom lines parallel to hipline.
VIII
For additional sweep, add about 2-½″ at bottom of each seam, to nothing, 3″ below waistline.
