Sleigh Ride in Russia
THE BOY TRAVELLERS IN
THE RUSSIAN EMPIRE
ADVENTURES OF TWO YOUTHS IN A JOURNEY IN
EUROPEAN AND ASIATIC RUSSIA, WITH ACCOUNTS OF A TOUR ACROSS SIBERIA
VOYAGES ON THE AMOOR, VOLGA, AND OTHER RIVERS, A VISIT TO
CENTRAL ASIA, TRAVELS AMONG THE EXILES, AND A HISTORICAL
SKETCH OF THE EMPIRE FROM ITS FOUNDATION
TO THE PRESENT TIME
By THOMAS W. KNOX
Illustrated
NEW YORK
HARPER & BROTHERS, FRANKLIN SQUARE
1887
THE BOY TRAVELLERS IN THE FAR EAST. Five Volumes Copiously Illustrated. 8vo, Cloth, $3 00 each. The volumes sold separately. Each volume complete in itself.
Adventures of Two Youths in a Journey to Japan and China.
Adventures of Two Youths in a Journey to Siam and Java. With Descriptions of Cochin-China, Cambodia, Sumatra, and the Malay Archipelago.
Adventures of Two Youths in a Journey to Ceylon and India. With Descriptions of Borneo, the Philippine Islands, and Burmah.
Adventures of Two Youths in a Journey to Egypt and Palestine.
Adventures of Two Youths in a Journey through Africa.
THE BOY TRAVELLERS IN SOUTH AMERICA. Adventures of Two Youths in a Journey through Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Brazil, Paraguay, Argentine Republic, and Chili; with Descriptions of Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego, and Voyages upon the Amazon and La Plata Rivers. Copiously Illustrated. 8vo, Cloth, $3 00.
THE BOY TRAVELLERS IN THE RUSSIAN EMPIRE. Adventures of Two Youths in a Journey in European and Asiatic Russia, with Accounts of a Tour across Siberia, Voyages on the Amoor, Volga, and other Rivers, a Visit to Central Asia, Travels Among the Exiles, and a Historical Sketch of the Empire from its Foundation to the Present Time. Copiously Illustrated. 8vo, Cloth, $3 00.
THE VOYAGE OF THE "VIVIAN" TO THE NORTH POLE AND BEYOND. Adventures of Two Youths in the Open Polar Sea. Copiously Illustrated. 8vo, Cloth, $2 50.
HUNTING ADVENTURES ON LAND AND SEA. Two Volumes. Copiously Illustrated. 8vo, Cloth, $2 50 each. The volumes sold separately. Each volume complete in itself.
The Young Nimrods in North America.
The Young Nimrods Around the World.
Published by Harper & Brothers, New York.
☞Any of the above volumes sent by mail, postage prepaid, to any part of the United States or Canada, on receipt of the price.
Copyright, 1886, by Harper & Brothers. —All rights reserved.
I N preparing this volume for the press, the author has followed very closely the plan adopted for "The Boy Travellers in the Far East," and also for his more recent work, "The Boy Travellers in South America." Accompanied by their versatile and accomplished mentor, Dr. Bronson, our young friends, Frank Bassett and Fred Bronson, journeyed from Vienna to Warsaw and St. Petersburg, and after an interesting sojourn in the latter city, proceeded to Moscow, the ancient capital of the Czars. From Moscow they went to Nijni Novgorod, to attend the great fair for which that city is famous, and thence descended the Volga to the Caspian Sea. On their way down the great river they visited the principal towns and cities along its banks, saw many strange people, and listened to numerous tales and legends concerning the races which make up the population of the great Muscovite Empire.
They visited the recently developed petroleum fields of the Caspian, and, after crossing that inland sea, made a journey in Central Asia to study certain phases of the "Eastern Question," and learn something about the difficulties that have arisen between England and Russia. Afterwards they travelled in the Caucasus, visited the Crimea, and bade farewell to the Empire as they steamed away from Odessa. Concerning the parts of Russia that they were unable to visit they gathered much information, and altogether their notes, letters, and memoranda would make a portly volume.
The author has been three times in the Russian Empire, and much of the country described by "The Boy Travellers" was seen and traversed by him. In his first journey he entered the Czar's dominions at Petropavlovsk in Kamtchatka, ascended the Amoor River through its entire navigable length, traversed Siberia from the Pacific Ocean to the Ural Mountains, and continuing thence to Kazan, Moscow, St. Petersburg, and Warsaw, left the protection of the Russian flag eleven thousand miles from where he first went beneath it. His second visit included the Crimea and other regions bordering the Black Sea, and his third was confined to Finland and other Baltic provinces.
In addition to his personal observations in Russia, the author has drawn upon the works of others. Many books of Russian travel and history have been examined; some of them have been mentioned in the text of the narrative, but it has not been practicable to refer to all. Indebtedness is hereby acknowledged to the following books: "Free Russia," by Hepworth Dixon ; "Turkestan" and "Life of Peter the Great," by Hon. Eugene Schuyler ; "A Ride to Khiva," by Col. Fred Burnaby ; "Campaigning on the Oxus, and the Fall of Khiva," by J. A. Macgahan ; "Life of Peter the Great" and "Life of Genghis Khan," by Jacob Abbott ; The Siberian Overland Route," by Alexander Michie ; "Tent-life in Siberia," by George Kennan ; "Reindeer, Dogs, and Snow-shoes," by Richard J. Bush; "The Invasion of the Crimea," by A. W. Kinglake ; "Fred Markham in Russia," by W. H. G. Kingston ; "The Knout and the Russians," by G. De Lagny; "The Russians at the Gates of Herat" and "The Region of the Eternal Fire," by Charles Marvin ; "Travels in the Regions of the Upper and Lower Amoor" and "Oriental and Western Siberia," by Thomas W. Atkinson; and "The Russians at Home," by Sutherland Edwards . The author has also drawn upon several articles in Harper's Magazine , including his own series describing his journey through Siberia.
The publishers have kindly permitted the use of illustrations from their previous publications on the Russian Empire, in addition to those specially prepared for this book. As a result of their courtesy, the author has been able to present a "copiously illustrated" book, which is always a delight to the youthful eye.
PAGE
Departure from Vienna.—Frank's Letter.—A Farewell Promenade.—From Vienna to Cracow.—The Great Salt-mine of Wieliczka, and what was seen there.—Churches and Palaces Underground.—Voyage on a Subterranean Lake.
15
Leaving Cracow.—The Russian Frontier.—The Police and the Custom-house—Russian Censorship of Books and Papers.—Catching a Smuggler.—From the Frontier to Warsaw.—Sights and Incidents in the Capital of Poland.—From Warsaw to St. Petersburg.
40
In the Streets of St. Petersburg.—Isvoshchiks and Droskies.—Counting in Russian.—Passports and their Uses.—On the Nevski Prospect.—Visiting the Church of Kazan.—The Russo-Greek Religion.—Unfavorable Position of St. Petersburg.—Danger of Destruction.—Great Inundation of 1824.—Statue of Peter the Great.—Admiralty Square.—The Sailors and the Statue.
58
Dinner in a Russian Restaurant.—Cabbage Soup, Fish Pies, and other odd Dishes.—The "Samovar" and its Uses.—Russian Tea-drinkers.—"Joltai Chai."—Alexander's Column.—Fortress of Sts. Peter and Paul.—Imperial Assassinations.—Sketches of the People.—Russian Police and their Ways.
76
Number and Character of the Russian People.—Pan-Slavic Union.—St. Isaac's Church: its History and Description.—The Winter Palace and the Hermitage.—Sights in the Palace.—Catherine's Rules for her Receptions.—John Paul Jones in Russia.—The Crown Jewels and the Orloff Diamond.—Anecdotes of the Emperor Nicholas.—Relics of Peter the Great.—From Palace to Prison.—Tombs of Russia's Emperors.—A Monument and an Anecdote.
93
The Gostinna Dvor: its Extent and Character.—Peculiarity of Russian Shopping.—Curious Customs.—Old-clothes Market.—Hay-market.—Pigeons in Russian Cities.—Frozen Animals.—Church and Monastery of St. Alexander Nevski.—A Persian Train.—A Coffin of Solid Silver.—The Summer Garden.—Speaking to the Emperor.—Kriloff and his Fables.—Visit to a Russian Theatre.—"A Life for the Czar."—A Russian Comedy.
110
Newspapers in Russia: their Number, Character, and Influence.—Difficulties of Editorial Life.—The Censorship.—An Excursion to Peterhof, Oranienbaum, and Cronstadt.—Sights in the Summer Palace.—Cronstadt and the Naval Station.—The Russian Navy.—The Russian Army: its Composition and Numbers.—The Cossacks.—Anecdotes of Russian Military Life.
130
Visiting the University of St. Petersburg.—Education in Russia.—Primary and other Schools.—The System of Instruction.—Recent Progress in Educational Matters.—Universities in the Empire: their Number and Location.—Religious Liberty.—Treatment of the Jews.—The Islands of the Neva, and what was seen there.—In a "Traktir."—Bribery Among Russian Officials.
150
Studies of St. Petersburg.—Mujiks.—"The Imperial Nosegay."—A Short History of Russian Serfdom: its Origin, Growth, and Abuses.—Emancipation of the Serfs.—Present Condition of the Peasant Class.—Seeing the Emperor.—How the Czar appears in Public.—Public and Secret Police: their Extraordinary Powers.—Anecdotes of Police Severity.—Russian Courts of Law.
172
Winter in Russia.—Fashionable and other Furs.—Sleighs and Sledges.—No Sleigh-bells in Russian Cities.—Official Opening of the Neva.—Russian Ice-hills.—"Butter-week."—Kissing at Easter.—An Active Kissing-time.—Russian Stoves and Baths.—Effects of Severe Cold.—The Story of the Frozen Nose.—How Men are Frozen to Death.
193
Leaving St. Petersburg.—Novgorod the Great: its History and Traditions.—Rurik and his successors.—Barbarities of John the Terrible.—Early History of Russia.—An Imperial Bear-hunt.—Origin of the House of Romanoff.—"A Life for the Czar."—Railways in Russia from Novgorod to Moscow.
211
First Impressions of Moscow.—Undulations of the Ground.—Irregularity of the Buildings, and the Cause thereof.—Napoleon's Campaign in Russia.—Disaster and Retreat.—The Burning of Moscow.—The Kremlin: its Churches, Treasures, and Historical Associations.—Anecdotes of Russian Life.—The Church of St. Basil.
230
The Great Theatre of Moscow.—Operatic Performances.—The Kitai Gorod and Gostinna Dvor.—Romanoff House and the Romanoff Family.—Sketch of the Rulers of Russia.—Anecdotes of Peter the Great and others.—Church of the Saviour.—Mosques and Pagodas.—The Museum.—Riding-school.—Suhareff Tower.—Traktirs.—Old Believers.—The Sparrow Hills and the Simonoff Monastery.
252
A Visit to the Troitska Monastery, and what was seen there.—Curious Legends.—Monks at Dinner.—European Fairs.—The Great Fair at Nijni Novgorod.—Sights and Scenes.—Minin's Tomb and Tower.—Down the Volga by Steamboat.—Steam Navigation on the great River.—Kazan, and what was seen there.—The Route to Siberia.
271
Avatcha Bay, in Kamtchatka.—Attack upon Petropavlovsk by the Allied Fleet.—Dogs and Dog-driving.—Rapid Travelling with a Dog-team.—Population and Resources of Kamtchatka.—Reindeer and their Uses.—The Amoor River.—Native Tribes and Curious Customs.—Tigers in Siberia.—Navigation of the Amoor.—Overland Travelling in Siberia.—Riding in a Tarantasse.—A Rough Road.—An Amusing Mistake.—From Stratensk to Nertchinsk.—Gold-mining in Siberia.
289
The Exiles of Siberia.—The Decembrists and their Experience.—Social Position of Exiles.—Different Classes of Exiles and their Sentences.—Criminals and Politicals.—Degrees of Punishment.—Perpetual Colonists.—How Exiles Travel.—Lodging-houses and Prisons.—Convoys.—Thrilling Story of an Escape from Siberia.—Secret Roads.—How Peasants treat the Exiles.—Prisoners in Chains.
313
Character of the Siberian Population.—Absence of Serfdom, and its Effect.—A Russian Fête.—Amusements of the Peasantry.—Courtship and Marriage.—Curious Customs.—Whipping a Wife.—Overland through Siberia again.—Chetah and the Bouriats.—In a Bouriat Village.—Verckne Udinsk.—Siberian Robbers.—Tea-trains and Tea-trade.—Kiachta.—Lodged by the Police.—Trade between Russia and China.
334
General Aspects of Mai-mai-chin.—Dinner with a Chinese Governor.—A Theatrical Performance.—Lake Baikal: its Remarkable Features.—A Wonderful Ride.—Irkutsk: its Population, Size, and Peculiarities.—Social Gayeties.—Preparations for a long Sleigh-ride.—List of Garments.—Varieties of Sleighs.—Farewell to Irkutsk.—Sleighing Incidents.—Food on the Road.—Siberian Mails.—Advantages of Winter Travelling.—Sleighing on bare Ground.—A Snowless Region.—Krasnoyarsk.
354
Position and Character of Krasnoyarsk.—A Lesson in Russian Pronunciation.—Market Scene.—Siberian Trees.—The "Oukhaba."—A New Sensation.—Road-fever and its Cause.—An Exciting Adventure with Wolves.—How Wolves are Hunted.—From Krasnoyarsk to Tomsk.—Steam Navigation in Siberia.— Barnaool.—Mines of the Altai.—Tigers and Tiger Stories.—The "Bouran."—Across the Baraba Steppe.—Tumen and Ekaterineburg.—From Europe to Asia—Perm, Kazan, and Nijni Novgorod.—End of the Sleigh-ride.
377
Down the Volga again.—Russian Reception Ceremony.—Simbirsk, Samara, and Saratov.—German Settlers on the Volga.—Don Cossacks.—Astrachan.—Curious Population.—Voyage on the Caspian Sea.—The Caspian Petroleum Region.—Tank-steamers.—Interesting Facts and Figures of the New Petrolia.—Present Product of the Baku Oil-fields.—Excursion to Balakhani, and Visit to the Oil-wells.—Temples of the Fire-worshippers.—Antiquity of the Caspian Petroleum Region.—Marco Polo and other Authorities.
403
Glance at Central Asia.—Russian Conquest in Turkestan.—War and Diplomacy among the Kirghese Tribes.—Russian Taxes and their Ccollection.—Turcoman and Kirghese Raids.—Prisoners sold into Slavery.—Fortified Villages and Towers of Refuge.—Commerce in Turkestan.—Jealousy of Foreigners.—Travels of Vambéry and Others.—Vambéry's Narrow Escape.—Turcoman Character.—Payments for Human Heads.—Marriage Customs among the Turcomans.—Extent and Population of Central Asia.
428
Frank and Fred in the Turcoman Country.—The Trans-Caspian Railway.—Skobeleff's Campaign, and the Capture of Geok Tepé.—English Jealousy of Russian Advances.—Rivers of Central Asia.—The Oxus and Jaxartes.—Agriculture by Irrigation.—Khiva, Samarcand, and Bokhara.—A Ride on the Trans-Caspian Railway.—Statistics of the Line.—Kizil Arvat, Askabad, and Sarakhs.—Route to Herat and India.—Turcoman Devastation.—The Afghan Boundary Question.—How Merv was Captured.—O'Donovan and MacGahan: their Remarkable Journeys.—Railway Route from England to India.—Return to Baku.
451
Baku to Tiflis.—The Capital of the Caucasus.—Mountain Travelling.—Crossing the Range.—Petroleum Locomotives.—Batoum and its Importance.—Trebizond and Erzeroom.—Sebastopol and the Crimea.—Short History of the Crimean War.—Russo-Turkish War of 1877–78.—Battles in the Crimea and Siege of Sebastopol.—Visiting the Malakoff and Redan Forts.—View of the Battle-fields.—Charge of the Light Brigade at Balaklava.—Present Condition of Sebastopol.—Odessa.—Arrival at Constantinople.—Frank's Dream.—The End.
480
Winter Scene in Russia
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Frontispiece.
Fred's Reminder
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15
St. Stephen's Cathedral, Vienna
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16
View of the Palace of Cracow
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17
Kosciusko, 1777
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18
Kosciusko, 1817
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19
Church of St. Mary, Cracow
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20
Polish Jew of high Rank
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21
Polish Jews of the Middle Class
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22
Our Guide in Costume
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The Inspector-general
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24
The Shaft
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26
Descending the Shaft
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27
Lamp-bearers
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28
A Foot-path
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29
An Underground Chapel
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31
Men Cutting Salt in the Mine
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32
Finishing the Columns
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33
Subterranean Stables
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34
A Mining Singer
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35
"Glück-auf!"
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36
Fête in the Grand Saloon of Entertainment
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37
A Retired Director
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38
Outer Wall of Cracow
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40
Custom-house Formalities
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41
Passport not Correct
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42
In the Passport Bureau
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43
Way Station on the Railway
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45
Before Examination
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After Examination
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Scene on the Railway
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48
Shutes for loading Coal on the Railway
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49
Polish National Costumes
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50
Peasant's Farm-house
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51
Royal Palace at Warsaw
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52
Shrine at a Gate-way
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53
Lake in the Park
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54
A Business Man of Warsaw
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In St. Petersburg
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56
Isvoshchiks in Winter
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Drosky Drivers
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60
Sledge of a high Official
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Russian Workmen on their way Home
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Russian Officer with Decorations
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66
A Russian Priest
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68
Convent of Solovetsk in the Frozen Sea
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71
The Inundation of 1824
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72
Statue of Peter the Great
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Improvising a Statue
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75
Tea-sellers in the Streets
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77
Russian Restaurant at the Paris Exposition
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78
An Out-door Tea-party
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79
Russian Mujiks drinking Tea
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81
Plant from which Yellow Tea is made
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82
Column in Memory of Alexander I
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Peter the Great
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85
Assassination of Peter III
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Paul I
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Russian and Finn
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89
Dvornik and Postman
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90
Lodgings at the Frontier
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Ordered to leave Russia
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92
Finland Peasants in Holiday Costume
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Inhabitants of Southern Russia
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95
St. Isaac's Church and Admkalty Square
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Priest of the Church of St. Isaac
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98
Catherine II. of Russia
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99
Reception of John Paul Jones by the Empress Catherine
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101
Russian Attack on the Turkish Galley
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103
The Orloff Diamond
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Nicholas I
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Peter III
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Circassian Arms as Trophies of Battle
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107
Statue of Nicholas I
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Politeness in the Market-place
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111
Importuning a Visitor
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Frozen Animals in the Market
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Market for old Clothes
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Pigeons in a Russian City
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Persian Horses presented by the Shah
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Russian Peasant Girl
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Russian Nurse-maid and Children
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Some of Kriloff's Friends
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Kriloff's Characters in Convention
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The Fox as a Law-giver
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One of Kriloff's Characters
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Closing Scene in a Russian Play
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128
Kriloff's Statue in the Summer Garden, St. Petersburg
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Press-room of a Daily Newspaper
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Interviewing an Editor
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Prince Gortchakoff
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Cabinet and Chair in the Palace
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Illumination in a Russian Park
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Tapestry and Fire Utensils at Peterhof
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137
Door-way of Peter's House at Zaandam, Holland
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A Student of Navigation
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Steam Frigate near Cronstadt
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Frigate under Sail and Steam
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The Dreadnought —type of the Peter the Great
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The Russian Army—Regular Troops
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Cossack Lancers and Russian Guard-house
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The Russian Army—Irregular Troops
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Grand-duke Michael
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Iron-clad Steamer of the Baltic Fleet
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Little Folks at School
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Learning to Weave
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Mineral Cabinet in the University
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Parlor in a High-school for Women
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Private Room of a wealthy Student
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Lower Recitation-room
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One of the Professors
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Descending a Shaft
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Galleries in a Mine
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In the Library
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A College Dormitory
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Jewish Burial-ground
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Clothes-dealer of Moscow
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A Russian Troika
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A Villa on the Island
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A Russian Family
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Culprit Street-sweepers
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A Business Transaction
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Peter the Great dressed for Battle
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An Imperial Nosegay
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Mujiks playing Cards
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Peasant's House in Southern Russia
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Peasants' Huts
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Esthonian Peasants
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Alexander II., the Liberator of the Serfs
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Alexander III., Emperor of Russia
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Battle between Russians and Circassians
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Schamyl's Village in the Caucasus
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The Empress Marie Féodorovna, Wife of Alexander III
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Russian Peasants at their Recreation
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"Who is the Spy?"
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Officers sitting in Judgment
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Russian Grand-duke and Grand-duchess
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Fur-bearing Seals
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Sea-otter
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The Beaver
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The Ermine
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The Raccoon
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Russian Ice-hills
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Soldiers off Duty—Butter-week
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The Easter Kiss—agreeable
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The Easter Kiss—in the Family
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The Easter Kiss—difficult
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The Easter Kiss—disagreeable
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The Emperor's Easter Kiss
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Peasant Girl in Winter Dress
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A Bath in the East
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Russian Street Scene in Winter
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Lost in a Snow-storm
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Workmen of Novgorod—Glazier, Painter, and Carpenters
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An Old Norse Chief
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View on the Steppe
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Ivan the Terrible
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Alexis Michailovitch, Father of Peter the Great
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Michael Feodorovitch, First Czar of the Romanoff Family
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Too near to be pleasant
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221
Wolf attacking its Hunters
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
222
Old Picture in the Church
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
224
A Bishop of the Greek Church
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
225
Millennial Monument at Novgorod
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
227
Russian Boats
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
228
Portrait of Catherine II. in the Kremlin Collection
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
229
Street Scene in Moscow
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
231
Bivouacking in the Snow
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
232
Battle between French and Russians
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
233
Napoleon Retreating from Moscow
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
235
Alexander I
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
236
View in the Kremlin
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
237
A Prisoner ordered to Execution
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
238
The Kremlin of Moscow
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
239
The Great Bell underground
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
240
Visiting the Great Bell
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
241
Empress Anne
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
242
The Empress Elizabeth
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
243
Coronation of Alexander III
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
245
Peter II
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
246
Bishop in his Robes
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
247
Great Gun at Moscow
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
249
The Cathedral at Moscow
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
250
Napoleon's Retreat from Moscow
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
251
Dress of Peasants—Scene from a Russian Opera
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
253
A Dressing-room of the Opera-house
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
254
Working the Ship in "L'Africaine"
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
255
Minin-Pojarsky Monument
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
257
Peter's Escape from Assassination
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
258
Peter the Great as Executioner
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
260
Catherine I
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
261
Catherine II
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
263
Grand-duke Nicholas Alexandrovitch
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
264
Skinned and Stuffed Man
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
266
Russian Beggars
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
267
Tartar Coffee-house in Southern Russia
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
269
Gallery in the Palace
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
270
Copy of Picture in the Monastery
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
272
Window in Church of the Trinity
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
273
Pity the Poor
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
274
Curious Agate at Troitska
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
275
Paper-knife from Troitska—St. Sergius and the Bear
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
276
Specimens of Ecclesiastical Painting on Glass
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
277
Russian Cooper's Shop and Dwelling
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
278
Nijni Novgorod during the Fair
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
280
Nijni Novgorod after the Fair
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
281
Tartar Merchant
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
282
Returning from the Fair
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
283
Launching a Russian Barge
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
285
Tartar Village near the Volga
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
286
Tartar Baker's Shop
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
287
A Siberian Village
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
289
Petropavlovsk, Kamtchatka.—Mount Avatcha in Background
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
290
A Herd of Reindeer
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
291
Dog-teams and Reindeer
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
293
Light-house at Ghijigha
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
294
Ermine-trap
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
295
Interior of a Native House
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
295
The Reindeer
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
296
Fish-market at Nicolayevsk
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
297
Scenery on the Amoor.
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
298
Gilyak' Woman
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
299
Gilyak Man
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
299
Native Boat—Amoor River
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
300
Goldee Children
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
300
Visiting a Goldee House at Night
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
301
Inauguration of Genghis Khan
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
302
Junction of the Argoon and Shilka to form the Amoor
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
303
Scene in a Posting Station
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
304
A Tarantasse
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
306
Changing Horses at a Siberian Station
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
307
The Right of Way in Russia
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
309
Getting out of Difficulty
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
310
Valley of the Amoor above Ouk-se-me
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
312
Interior of an Exile's Hut
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
314
Exiles passing through a Village
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
315
A Town built by Exiles
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
317
Banished for Five Years
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
318
Banished for Three Years
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
318
Colonist's Village in Winter
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
319
Exiles leaving Moscow
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
321
Tagilsk, centre of Iron-mines of Siberia
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
322
A Siberian Valley
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
323
Two Exiled Friends Meeting
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
325
Escaping Exiles crossing a Stream
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
326
Ivanoff's Cave
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
327
Exiles among the Mountains
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
329
Siberian Peasants
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
331
Siberian Milk-women
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
332
Siberia in Summer
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
333
An Exile Peasant and his Friends
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
335
A Siberian Landscape
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
336
Girls Playing at Skakiet
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
337
A Village Festival
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
338
Russian Peasant Women
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
340
Making Calls after a Wedding
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
342
Ceremony after a Peasant's Wedding
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
343
The Mountains near Chetah
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
345
A Bouriat Village
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
346
A Wandering Priest
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
347
Crossing the Selenga
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
349
Finding Lodgings at Kiachta
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
351
Chinese Cash from Mai-mai-chin
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
352
Articles of Russian Manufacture
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
353
Scene in a Chinese Temple
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
354
Theatre at Mai-mai-chin
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
355
The Tiger
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
356
A Natural Arch on Lake Baikal
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
357
Caverns on Lake Baikal
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
358
Part of Irkutsk
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
359
View of the Principal Square in Irkutsk
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
360
Dressed for the Road
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
362
Avashok
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
363
My Kibitka
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
364
Farewell to Irkutsk
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
365
Work of the Frost-king
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
367
Interior of a Russian Inn
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
369
Mail-driver and Guard
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
370
Distant View of a Siberian Village
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
371
Soldiers in Siberian Ferry-boats
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
373
View of Krasnoyarsk from the opposite Bank of the Yenisei
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
374
A Dangerous Ride
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
376
Beggar at a Siberian Station
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
378
Policeman at Krasnoyarsk
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
380
Hills near a Siberian River
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
381
Jumping an "Oukhaba"
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
382
Wolves Attacking a Buffalo
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
384
A Siberian Wolf
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
385
Summer and Winter in Russia
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
386
Village on a Russian Estate
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
388
A Slight Mishap
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
389
Summer View near Barnaool
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
391
Attacked by a Tiger
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
393
Bearcoots and Wolves
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
394
The Steppe in Summer
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
395
Specimen of Rock-crystal
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
397
Monument at the Boundary
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
397
Western Slope of the Ural Mountains
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
398
Descending a Hill-side Road
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
400
Baptizing through the Ice
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
401
End of the Sleigh-ride
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
402
Offering of the Villagers
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
404
Shoeing an Ox
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
406
Knife-whip
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
407
Armenian Bishop of Astrachan
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
408
A Tartar Khan
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
409
Tartar Postilions
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
410
Tartar Palaces in Southern Russia
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
411
Gypsy Family at Astrachan
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
412
An Oil-steamer on the Caspian Sea
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
413
Tanks at a Storage Depot
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
413
View in an Oil Region
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
414
Bits for Drilling Wells
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
415
A Spouting Well
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
416
Derrick and Tanks in the American Oil Region
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
417
An Oil Refinery with Tank Cars
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
419
Tartar Camel-cart at Baku
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
420
Ancient Mound near the Caspian Sea
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
421
Curious Rock Formations
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
422
Modern Fire-worshippers—Parsee Lady and Daughter
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
423
A Burning Tank
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
425
A Fall in Oil
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
426
A Rise in Oil
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
426
Camp Scene near the Altai Mountains
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
429
A Kalmuck Priest
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
430
Scene on the Edge of the Kirghese Steppe
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
431
Kirghese Group
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
432
Kirghese Chief and Family
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
433
Caravan in Russian Territory
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
434
Kirghese Raid on a Hostile Tribe
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
436
Lasgird—A Fortified Village in Northern Persia
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
438
Tower of Refuge
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
439
Framework of Turcoman Tent
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
440
The Tent Covered
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
440
Interior of Tent
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
441
Vámbéry's Reception by Turcoman Chief on the Caspian Shore
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
442
Receiving Payment for Human Heads—Khiva
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
443
Turcoman Trophy—A Russian Head
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
445
Kökbüri—A Race for a Bride
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
447
View of the Citadel of Khiva
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
448
An Ozbek Head
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
449
Map showing the Relations of Russia and England in the East
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
451
Sand-storm in the Desert
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
452
Turcoman Court of Justice
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
453
Kirghese Tomb
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
454
Charge of Russian Cavalry against Turcomans
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
455
Russian Army on the Turcoman Steppes
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
457
Winter Camp in Turcomania
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
459
Turcoman Irrigating Wheel
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
460
Scene at a Ferry on the Oxus
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
461
Map of the Russo-Afghan Region
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
462
Turcoman Woman Spinning
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
464
Village of Turcoman Tents
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
465
The New Russo- Afghan Frontier
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
466
Old Sarakhs
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
468
Sarik Turcomau Woman
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
469
Pul-i-Khisti and Ak Tapa
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
470
Penjdeh
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
471
Colonel Alikhanoff
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
472
The Great Highway of Central Asia
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
473
Turcoman Farm-yard
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
475
Map of Turkestan, showing Route of Trans-Caspian Railway
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
476
Crossing a River in Central Asia
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
478
A Native Traveller
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
479
Looking down on the Steppe
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
481
View of Tiflis
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
483
The Pass of Dariel, Caucasus
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
485
Governor-general of the Caucasus
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
486
Ruined Fortress in the Caucasus
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
487
Ruined Church near Batoum
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
488
Quarantine Harbor, Trebizond
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
489
View of Erzeroom
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
490
Turkish Authority
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
492
View of Sebastopol
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
495
Ruins of the Malakoff, Sebastopol
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
496
Russian Carpenters at Work
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
498
Cossacks and Chasseurs
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
499
British Soldiers in Camp
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
501
Alfred Tennyson
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
502
A Broken Tarantasse
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
503
The Bosporus
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
504
Map to accompany the Boy Travellers in the Russian Empire
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
Front Cover.
Map showing the Russian Empire Routes as Described by the Boy Travellers.
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
Back Cover.